How to Be Your Dog's Best Friend

by Monks of New Skete

  If you agree to go ahead with the service, have your keys stamped DO NOT DUPLICATE and make sure not to attach your name and address on the keys. It is better for dog walkers to color-code keys to protect the owner's security should the keys ever be lost or stolen. Lastly, have copies of emergency telephone numbers (veterinarian, your work number, neighbor, etc.) near the front door or on your refrigerator.

  "I wouldn't own a dog in the city — he would never get any fresh air!" This common complaint has the same merit as that which applies to human beings. Air pollution in some cities is unremitting, and the air inside is usually cleaner than the air outside. Take the normal precautions for your dog that you take for yourself. Don't expose the dog to noxious vehicular exhaust if you can help it. Try to get your dog out onto grass at least once a day, even if it is only a small patch of greenery. Never blow cigarette smoke in your dog's face, even in jest. Also, many city dwellers (e.g., New Yorkers) take off to small homes in the country for weekends, thereby providing their dogs with environmental balance.

  Noise pollution is actually more of a problem to dogs than air pollution is. Trucks, honking horns, sirens, airplanes, sonic booms, and crowd noise all take their toll on the city dog who has not been sensitized to various noises. Use the same precautions for your dog as you take for yourself. Avoid walking past construction projects if you can, because loud, sudden machinery noises can make even the best-trained dog break heel and dart away. Narrow, thin alleys or precarious, temporary construction crossings can be a problem.

  Brian Kilcommons makes an interesting suggestion that is applicable to young pups and fearful or hesitant dogs: play sound tapes (e.g., of thunderstorms or loud city sounds) in your apartment while your dog is eating.*By starting at a very low level, you can gradually accustom a dog to tolerate such sounds without concern. Remember, not all dogs are of the caliber of Seeing Eye dogs, who are able to cope with city stress because they are genetically and educationally prepared. When you must traverse an area where noise is deafening, hold the dog near you on leash and cup one hand around the dog's neck until the noise dies down or you pass out of its range. This comforting body contact can help the dog cope with the noise more easily.

  Dogs should not be allowed to run free in city parks unless they are completely controllable. In some cities the law may forbid off-lead dogs altogether. Even city parks can be a stress for a dog and can provoke strange behavioral reactions. For instance, never allow a dog to run free with strange children. Don't allow noisy children to crowd around your dog. Groups of screaming children have often triggered biting incidents or encouraged playful dogs to jump up. A child who is jumped on in play and then falls and screams can be perceived as prey by a dog, with occasionally tragic results.

  The city dog needs to be able to deal with an incredible array of strangers each day. Many humans in cities simply go on "automatic pilot" and pass strangers without seeing particular faces. This ability to screen out distractions is more difficult for dogs to acquire, especially with their highly developed sense of smell. The dog remains interested, in a positive or negative way, in practically every human and dog he passes. Pedestrians may react in a variety of ways, from fear to over-effusive affection to outright disdain or hostility. There is simply no way to predict their reactions, so the best approach is to expose your dog to all possibilities in a structured training session. Accustom your dog to being approached, petted, and also, possibly, rebuffed.

  A leadership role by the master, and heeling practice, can help rivet the dog to his owner, but be aware that heeling is always more difficult in the city. There are simply more distractions, more opportunities to lag behind and investigate or to lunge ahead. If you follow the heeling methods described in this book and train your dog to heel by using distractions in your training sessions (traffic, other dogs, crowds), your dog should be confident and controllable and able to handle any situation on the street.

  In an elevator, you and your dog might be squeezed in with a crowd. Accustom your dog to riding in an empty one first, before attempting to ride in a full elevator. If your dog either is prone to aggressive reactions or simply wilts if caught in a crush of people, you have to pay extra attention in elevators, crowded hallways, and rush-hour crowds on city streets. If this is a problem for you, keep your dog on leash and his training collar high around his neck for more control. Gradual exposure to these situations often improves a dog's performance.

  No need to mention the foolishness of allowing a dog to run free in an urban area, or of ever walking the dog off lead, for that matter. Both practices are extremely dangerous for city dogs. A free-roving city dog can galavant around continually, chased by dog catchers and others. Life for this dog soon becomes the equivalent of guerrilla warfare, a daily ritual of scavenging, fighting, and avoiding capture. Studies on the behavior of free-roving urban dogs have shown that these dogs learn to move quickly.*They can be so cunning that they avoid capture for weeks. If you live in a congested area and let your dog run free, unsupervised, he may be recruited into one of these canine gangs. The end that awaits these vagabonds is the pound and probable euthanasia. As for walking your dog off leash, there are simply too many dangers in a city ever to make doing so advisable. In New York we noticed a gentleman walking his Doberman pinscher off lead down the sidewalk. The swagger with which he walked indicated how proud he was of his dog, and the dog was clearly well trained. We could only shake our heads at the man's foolishness. Dogs are not perfect. All it takes is one mistake — a cat or other animal running out suddenly and the dog chasing it out into the street — and the result could be catastrophic. There is no shame in walking your dog on leash.

  Since city dogs are so restricted, they often wind up staying at home alone. It's just not possible to take the dog everywhere in the city. Even if the dog can stay in the car comfortably (though it's often too hot for her to stay in the car alone safely), in some cities there is a very real chance that the dog could be stolen. On the other hand, most city pets serve a need for protection and security, so they are left behind to guard the owner's belongings. The resulting isolation, accompanied by a backdrop of urban noise, is often a prelude to incessant barking, destructive chewing, or other frustration-release activities. The situation spirals downward as continual barking or whining leads to complaints and possibly eviction. Destructive chewing can cause an apartment dweller to forfeit an expensive damage deposit, not to mention the loss of personal belongings.

  If you live in an apartment, carefully consider which rooms the dog will have access to when you are gone. Some owners may need to train their dogs to eliminate initially on newspapers in the kitchen, then wean the dog to eliminating outside as he gets older. During this time, we advise confining the young dog to the kitchen by using an expanding gate, then crating him until he is fully housetrained. If the dog is being seriously exercised at midday, this is not at all unreasonable. Generally, we do not expect a dog to be capable of having full access to the house until he is between a year and a half and two years of age.

  In apartment buildings, most bathroom and kitchen pipes and ventilation systems connect to upper and lower floors. A dog that barks in the kitchen, bangs her tail on the bathroom radiator, or yodels in the living room will probably disturb several residents of an apartment complex. The terrace is no place for an unsupervised dog. Some city owners train their dogs to eliminate on a terrace, sending fumes, aromas, and even droppings down or across to their neighbors. Others use the terrace for exercise, and run the risk of the dog's falling or even hurling himself over the railing.

  Correcting these problems can be difficult, regardless of the techniques used, since in some cases the dog simply cannot tolerate the city environment and meet its demands. Obedience training, at least to the heel, sit, stay, and come level, is always imperative for general adjustment. Our experience with electronic bark collars and citronella collars convinces us that either can be used humanely, with dogs usually making the connection b
etween barking and punishment quickly. Either collar is a far more reasonable solution than eviction. Efforts to screen city noise can also be made, and it may be helpful to leave the radio or TV turned on. Boredom and loneliness can be alleviated by a program of roadwork, exercise, massage, grooming, and proper diet, as outlined later in this book. The possibility of providing a companion for the dog might also be explored. Don't automatically think in terms of another dog — a cat may be a possibility, if the two are compatible. A bird that sings or can be taught to talk is another possibility.

  Dogs who must face long periods of time alone should be greeted and left calmly. The owner should not make good-byes dramatic or prolonged, pleading with the dog not to chew or bark. When the owner returns, the dog should be greeted simply but affectionately. Overdramatic hellos and good-byes often keep dogs on edge and can result in stress-relieving behavior such as destructive chewing. After the owner leaves, the dog is still excited from being petted and cuddled, and possibly pleaded with to "be good." The owner may leave feeling better, but the dog may be on the verge of emotional collapse. Greeting and leaving scenes must not be the high points of the dog-owner relationship.

  To burst into the house or apartment laden with special treats and then effusively greet the dog may alleviate some of your own guilt over leaving him isolated, but it's a disservice to the dog. The dog's psychological alarm clock tells him when to expect you home. The dog gears himself up for the happy moment, the treats, the play session. If, by chance, you are late, as is often the case because of subway, bus, or traffic delays, the dog's anticipation can turn into frustration, and frustration into destructiveness, whining, or barking.

  If you live in a city and experience any of these problems, immediately begin to reconstruct your hello and good-bye scenes. Obedience training will help you to gain a leadership role over the dog. Even-keeled hellos and good-byes should give the dog a sense of purpose. For instance, say, "Watch the house," or some such phrase as you leave. When you return, praise the dog with a cheery hello but don't fall all over him. When you leave, offer the dog his favorite toy. When you return, delay feeding the dog for half an hour or longer. If you return from work at 5:30 and feed the dog right away, you are helping condition him to expect food at that time. Then he is frustrated whenever you are delayed and arrive home later.

  Selecting a Dog for City Life

  If you are about to select a puppy or older dog for life in the city, you should seriously consider the personality traits of different breeds. Breed traits, though not absolute indicators, give you reasonable guidelines from which you may then narrow your focus. Size is not an automatic disqualifier. For example, it might appear that a German shepherd dog is ill prepared for city life whereas a poodle would do well. But this is not always the case. A happy life in the city depends on the individual dog. Conscious of the rising need for dogs as protectors and companions in urban areas, many breeders are selectively breeding dogs that can take city stress and adapt to the urban environment. For instance, German shepherds from certain bloodlines can adapt well to city life, but others cannot. Some poodles may do well in a city environment, but others do not. It's a good idea to talk to a breeder who is breeding for pets with a high threshold for noise, low excitability, and high trainability.

  On the other hand, breeders can manipulate genetics only to a certain extent. Borzois are hounds that love to gallop, so they will always need an opportunity to run, which may be hard to find in the city. Malamutes, Siberian huskies, and other northern breeds may never adapt to the summer heat in a busy metropolis or be able to resist digging an occasional cooling hole. While individuals within a breed may adapt well, breed characteristics should still play a role in your selection of a city pet. As we have indicated, don't be fooled by size. Though the Doberman is a hefty dog, most Doberman bloodlines produce excellent city dogs. The Pembroke Welsh corgi, technically classed as a working dog, is "apartment size" but very active and may need an extraordinary amount of exercise.

  To select a city dog properly, first decide objectively on your breed. Next, try to find someone who has a dog of that breed in your city. This may take some searching, or it may be as simple as stopping to chat with someone in a park or someone who happens to be walking the kind of dog you want. Most national breed organizations are happy to refer you to breeders specializing in city pets or to owners of urban dogs. It is well worth your time and trouble to meet the owner of a well-adjusted city dog and talk over breed characteristics and potential troubles. Most breeders and dog owners enjoy the opportunity to talk about their dogs.

  It is possible to have a happy, healthy dog in the city — but it takes twice as much dedication. There is a tendency to look at dogs in terms of the services they render their owners. Whether that service be protection, companionship, or an aid to status, it is always secondary to the quality of the dog-owner relationship. The dog must feel responsible to, not for, his owner. He should perceive the owner as a helper and leader. The owner should act as the alpha figure in the dog's life. If the dog-owner relationship is marked by affection, regard, and love, the dog will reciprocate with characteristic steadfastness, respect, and friendship — regardless of where he lives.

  16

  Suburban Life

  The suburbs may be the best of dog worlds, but its environment poses its own special set of problems. Although suburban dogs are usually not as restricted, regulated, isolated, and controlled as those in the city, the very lifting of these restrictions provides a set of pressures for the suburban dog owner.

  When suburbs do have leash laws, residents do not always obey them. In general, enforcement of leash laws is lax in the suburbs. The law may include a stipulation that the dog must be leashed or "under the owner's direct control." Having a dog under one's "direct control" is, of course, a vague concept. What it may mean in practice is that the dog is allowed to run free but eventually returns home. This is enough "control" for some owners. Free-roving dogs often form packs or bite, a growing problem in many suburbs and villages. This is forcing suburban municipalities to adopt city-type leash laws and implement zoning restrictions that penalize all dog owners. At least in the city, most stray dogs are picked up promptly and impounded. As a result, city dog owners tend to keep their dogs supervised, since they stand a very real chance of losing them otherwise.

  Regardless of the environment, the only complete solution to free roving is to somehow contain the dog on one's own property when she is not on leash. The best and most humane way is to bring the dog into the house, where she belongs — regardless of the owner's interpretations to the contrary. Assuming the dog is indoors at least 50 percent of the time and is obedience-trained to come when called, there will be little or no problem of her going off the property. If there is a problem — or even as a preventative measure — additional backup solutions would be fencing in the entire yard, setting up a smaller fenced-in area, or rigging up a cable runner between the house and a tree in the yard. The latter is preferable to chaining the dog, since the runner allows the dog much more mobility. Nevertheless, it is imperative to use these as support to an overall relationship with a dog that includes regular exercise with the owner. One of the most frequent misjudgments suburbanites make is to think that their dogs get enough exercise in a fenced-in backyard. "But she has the whole backyard to herself during the day," we've heard many an owner complain when we recommend additional exercise. Dogs often sleep or are inactive when owners are away, making periods of walking and exercise important ingredients to the health of your relationship.

  Some suburbanites persist in believing the myth that their environment is "countryish" enough to allow their pets to go where they please. (Unfortunately, even a country environment does not allow that.) The suburbs are not the country, and even if they were, that is no excuse for letting a dog run wild.

  Many a suburban dog owner experiencing house soiling, chewing, digging, or free roving has asked us if we would like to adopt a masc
ot for our monastic community. Aside from the fact that we already have enough dogs of our own and are responsible for ten, sometimes twenty, boarding dogs, a country life here is not the solution to the dog's problems. Dog owners cannot do without having complete control over their dogs. A dog will come when he is kept close by, oriented to the inside of the house, and formally practiced in coming when called. Keep your dog inside, and either accompany him under supervision or leash him for defecation and exercise. If you want him to run free (presuming you have trained him sufficiently in the recall), take him to a park or large field and personally watch him. If your dog is not yet trustworthy off leash, a long fifty-foot clothesline can trail behind as the dog chases after a ball or Frisbee, thereby allowing you to deal with unexpected distractions or game playing.

  Another common suburban dilemma occurs when a dog is left alone all day while the owner works. These dogs are left either inside or out, and quickly develop such problems as overbarking, frustration chewing, or fence jumping. Often they are enticed by other suburban dogs who are not restricted. It is difficult for a male dog to resist fence jumping if a constant parade of females in season passes his way while naive owners think their females are out doing their business. Some suburban dogs stay in yards that are fenced-in but afford a full view of a neighboring dog's yard. The result can be a virtual daylong barkfest between two or more of these animals. Remember, if one dog can see another but can't get to him, barking or whining at the other animal is the usual result. In fact, regardless of whether any other dog is in sight, any arrangement for keeping the dog that includes barrier frustration (cages, pens, chains, clothesline tethers) runs the risk of producing overbarking.