Bike Repair & Maintenance For Dummies®

by Dennis Bailey

  Threadless headsets

  Overhauling a threadless headset is sometimes easier if you remove the handlebars. Do this by removing the bolts in the stem that hold the handlebars in place. It also helps to remove the front wheel from the fork (see Chapter 7). Depending on what type of brakes you have, you may need to remove these as well (see Chapter 8).

  Here’s how to overhaul a threadless headset:

  1. Using an Allen wrench, unscrew and remove the bolt and top cap in the top of the stem (as shown in Figure 15-11).

  2. Loosen the clamp bolt or bolts holding the stem in place (see Figure 15-12).

  Be sure to keep a hand on the fork if your bike is off the ground.

  3. Slide the stem off the fork steering tube (as shown in Figure 15-13).

  As you do this, make sure you hold onto the fork so that it doesn’t fall on the ground.

  4. Remove the parts of the headset, including any washers or spacers (as shown in Figure 15-14).

  Keep track of the order in which you remove things so you can put everything back together more easily.

  5. Pull the fork out of the frame (as shown in Figure 15-15).

  If the fork is stuck, you may have to tap it with a mallet, being careful not to damage the top of the steering tube.

  Figure 15-11: Loosening the top cap.

  Figure 15-12: Undoing the clamp bolt.

  Figure 15-13: Removing the stem.

  Figure 15-14: Removing spacers.

  6. Remove the bearings (see Figure 15-16).

  There is a top and bottom or an inside and outside of the bearing race. Take note of the bearing race positioning before removing the bearings. If you don’t reinstall them properly, you won’t be able to adjust the headset and you’ll damage both the bearings and the headset.

  7. The bearings will likely be contained in a race with their surfaces exposed or sealed in a cartridge (see Figure 15-17 for both types):

  • If the bearings are exposed, inspect them. Bearings that are pitted or do not have a shiny surface should be replaced.

  • If your bearings are sealed in a cartridge, check to see that they turn smoothly. If they don’t, replace them.

  8. Clean and inspect all parts.

  9. When you’re ready to reinstall the headset, coat both cups with a layer of grease.

  10. Insert one of the races into the bottom cup.

  11. While holding the bottom race into place with one hand, insert the fork with the other hand.

  This procedure is sometimes easier if you turn the bike over.

  12. When the fork is inside the head tube, slide the other race over the fork steering tube and down into the top cup of the head tube.

  13. Slide any washers or spacers over the fork steering tube in their original order.

  Figure 15-15: Removing the fork.

  Figure 15-16: Bearings in the headset.

  Figure 15-17: Two styles of bearings.

  14. Attach the top cap and screw it into place with the Allen bolt.

  15. Follow the procedure for headset adjustment in the “Threadless headsets” section under “Adjusting your headset.”

  16. Center the stem and secure it by tightening the clamp bolt or bolts.

  If you replace a headset with the same model, you’ll be able to install it yourself in most cases — you won’t have to press the head-tube cups into the frame because you can reuse the ones currently in place. However, if you change headsets, you’ll need your local bike shop to install it. Special tools along with skill and expertise are required for removing headset parts from a bike frame and installing new ones.

  Threaded headsets

  When you overhaul a threaded headset, you’ll likely observe the reason for its name — the threaded steerer tube that sits at the top of a fork. You’ll also see that a threaded headset is unique with its expander bolt, something that helps keep it in place when tightened.

  To overhaul a threaded headset, follow these steps:

  1. Use an Allen wrench, or adjustable wrench if needed, to loosen the socket head bolt, which sits at the top of the stem.

  Turn it just a few times to loosen it. Do not completely remove this bolt. It’s connected to an expander wedge at the bottom of the stem, which keeps the stem in place. Sometimes the bolt may be buried deep inside the stem and require a longer Allen wrench (see Figure 15-18).

  2. After the bolt is loosened, place a small block of wood on it and give it a firm blow with a hammer to jar the wedge loose.

  If the stem has not been removed for a while it may take more than one blow and/or some penetrating lubricant.

  3. Lift the stem out of the steering tube connected to the fork (as shown in Figure 15-19).

  Figure 15-18: Loosening the socket head bolt.

  Figure 15-19: Removing the stem.

  4. Remove the headset locknut by turning it in a counterclockwise direction (as shown in Figure 15-20).

  Figure 15-20: Undoing the locknut.

  5. Slide off any washers or anything else that sits underneath the locknut you just removed.

  6. Unscrew the adjustable cup or cone that sits against the top of the head tube.

  As you do, hold on to the fork with one hand so that it doesn’t fall to the ground.

  There is a top and bottom or an inside and outside of the bearing race. Take note of the bearing race positioning before removing it. If you don’t reinstall it properly, you won’t be able to adjust the headset and you’ll damage the bearings and the headset.

  Be careful with the bearings that sit in the top and bottom of the head tube. If they’re contained within a race, you’re in good shape; if they’re loose, they may fall out when you remove the adjustable cup or slide out of the fork. In the case of loose bearings, remove the top set before you slide out the fork. Then turn the bike upside down to remove the fork and the bottom set.

  7. Inspect the bearings to see if they’re pitted or worn.

  If they are, they should be replaced.

  8. Clean and inspect all parts.

  9. When you’re ready to reinstall the headset, coat both cups with a layer of grease.

  10. Insert one of the retainers into the bottom cup.

  11. While holding the bottom retainer into place with one hand, insert the fork with the other hand.

  This procedure is sometimes easier if you turn the bike over.

  12. After the fork is inside the head tube, slide the other race over the fork steering tube and down into the top cup of the head tube.

  13. Screw on the adjustable cup or cone until it presses down slightly on the bearings.

  14. Slide any washers, locknut, and anything else over the fork steering tube in their original order.

  15. Follow the procedure in the “Threaded headsets” section under “Adjusting your headset.”

  16. Insert the stem and, when it’s at the correct height, turn the bolt clockwise.

  This will expand the wedge at the bottom of the stem and hold it in place.

  When you adjust the height of the stem, don’t set it higher than the safety limit marking engraved into the side of the stem. It may have faded over time, so you need to look carefully to find it.

  Part IV

  Keeping Your Bike on the Road

  In this part …

  If we had to pick just one part of this book to recommend, it would be this one. If you follow the advice in these chapters and make a commitment to regular bike maintenance, you won’t need to spend as much time with the other chapters of this book, because your bike will be maintained in good working order. In this part, we cover everything you need to know about maintenance, including preventive maintenance (such as regular lubrication and cleaning), monthly maintenance, and yearly overhauls — all steps that are designed to help you enjoy years of trouble-free biking.

  Chapter 16

  An Ounce of Preventive Maintenance

  In This Chapter

  Performing a safety inspection of your bike before you ride
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  Assembling a tool kit for daily rides and extended trips

  Minimizing wear and tear and preventing accidents

  Cleaning and lubricating your bike after a ride

  Stowing away your bike for winter (or until your next ride!)

  If you’re like us, you once had a bike that you never took care of — probably when you were a kid. Dennis had a BMX-style bike in his teens that he almost killed himself on, pushing it to the limits on dirt trails and bike jumps that he and his friends engineered after school. Despite all the punishment Dennis dished out on that bike, it valiantly held up to give him several pleasurable years of riding.

  Modern-day bikes are designed with durable components that can take a lot of wear and tear, but this doesn’t mean that you should neglect your bike the way you did when you didn’t know any better. The old adage that an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure is especially true when it comes to your bike. If you follow the guidelines in this chapter for preventive maintenance, not only will you extend the life of your bike, but you’ll have fewer repairs to make, you’ll be safer, and you’ll get more enjoyment out of riding.

  In this chapter, we explain some simple steps you can take before, during, and after riding to care for your bike and extend its life. Cleaning and lubricating your bike is at the top of the list, but don’t stop there. You can do a quick inspection before you ride, follow some basic rules while riding to minimize wear and tear on your bike, and properly store your bike when your ride is over. We cover all these steps in this chapter.

  Before You Ride

  If you’re like a lot of bikers, when you finally have some time for a ride, the last thing you want to be thinking about is repair and maintenance. You grab your helmet and gloves and you’re out the door, ready to roll.

  But you can improve your bike’s performance, prevent major headaches, and improve your own safety by doing a few simple things before you ride. In this section, we fill you in.

  Assembling an emergency tool kit

  Assembling an emergency tool kit is essential if you plan on doing anything more than taking a trip around the block. You’ll want to bring along a basic set of tools so that when the inevitable breakdown happens, you won’t be stranded on the side of the road.

  When you’re shopping for tools, look for ones that are light, so that they won’t weigh you down, especially on longer trips. Size is also a consideration especially because you’ll want to stow away your tools in a pouch under your seat or tucked away in a bike bag. You don’t want to try biking if you have a large crescent wrench sticking out from under your seat. Your best bet is to visit your local bike shop to find small, lightweight tools to take with you when you bike.

  Look at multipurpose tools — they provide a lot of functionality in one small, convenient package. Also, some bike shops offer kits with everything you need already assembled.

  Putting together a basic tool kit

  For starters, we recommend that you include the following tools in your emergency tool kit. (After you have some biking experience, you may decide to change or add to it.)

  Small frame-mounted tire pump: If you’ve been doing any biking already, you probably already have a tire pump — but you may not have a small one that you can mount on your frame. If you don’t already have one of these small, frame-mounted pumps, put this at the top of your list.

  Tire patch kit: Patching a flat tire is an unavoidable part of biking, and a tire patch kit is essential. A patch kit includes patches, glue, and a tool to rough up the surface of the tube to improve adhesion.

  Spare inner tube: If your tube explodes, you’ll have to replace it with a new one, so carrying a spare inner tube with you is important.

  Tire levers: Unless you have an a racing bike that uses tubular tires, you’ll need tire levers to remove and install a tire.

  Allen wrenches: You’ll need these for adjusting various parts of your bike. Most Allen wrenches come in a kit or as a part of a multipurpose tool with the most popular sizes found on a bike.

  Screwdrivers: You’ll need both a flathead screwdriver and a Phillips screwdriver for adjusting derailleurs and other parts of your bike. You may need a regular-size screwdriver and a smaller one depending on your bike.

  Spoke wrench: You need a spoke wrench that fits the spoke nipples on your bike. To determine what size spoke wrench you need, visit your local bike shop and ask for help.

  Pliers: You’ll need pliers for pulling cables.

  Multipurpose tool: Many bike shops offer a multipurpose tool, which includes screwdrivers, Allen wrenches, a chain tool, and other types of tools.

  Rag: You’ll use clean rags to wipe your hands after some messy repair jobs. You can also use a rag when you’re checking tires for flats, handling chains, and so on.

  Small light: If you have to stay out later than expected, it’s good to have a light that you can clip to your bike when it gets dark. You may want to have an LED light permanently mounted or clipped to your bike. A rear blinking light is a good idea, too. Lights are inexpensive, and the front light at least is a legal requirement.

  Adding tools for an extended trip

  As biking becomes more popular, many riders are discovering the enjoyment in taking extended trips on their bikes. If you’re planning a bike trip that will last for more than a day or two, you need to add some additional tools and parts to your emergency tool kit (see the preceding section).

  Which tools you should take depends on where you’re biking and for how long. If you’ll be passing through a lot of small towns, chances are pretty good that you can find a local bike shop to help you in a jam. Dennis has taken extended trips through Europe where he’s been able to pack very few tools because of the popularity of biking and the large number of local bike shops along the way. Once, on the outskirts of Limerick, Ireland, he had a minor accident and ruined some spokes. A passerby stopped to help and eventually took Dennis and his bike to a bike shop in town. After Dennis’s bike was repaired, the friendly passerby invited him back to his house where his family gave Dennis a warm bed and a traditional Irish breakfast the next morning. Although we don’t recommend having an accident to meet people, this was one of the highlights of Dennis’s time in Ireland.

  Although, in many cases, you’ll be able to find help if you break down on the side of the road, you’re better off being ready to handle the repair on your own. For extended trips, we recommend having everything from the preceding section, as well as the following additional tools:

  Spare tire: A number of companies make tires that can be folded and packed away. Surprisingly enough, folding tires are often actually better-quality tires, just with a foldable Kevlar bead instead of a stiff wire bead.

  Extra tubes: If you ride across something on the road that blows out a tube, there is always a chance that you’ll hit it with your back tire as well, so keep two, just in case.

  Chain tool: A longer trip increases your chances of having issues with your chain, and you’ll need this tool to take it apart and reconnect it.

  Chain links and rivets: If you have issues with your chain, you may need to replace links. Have extra rivets or connecting links available for when you reconnect the chain.

  Spare spokes: In our experience, spoke problems are one of the top three or four issues that you’ll encounter on an extended trip. Keep at least two spare spokes on hand. Be sure to confirm what sizes you need.

  On some bikes, the size of the spokes can differ on the front and rear wheels and even within the same wheel.

  Spare cables: If you’re on an extended trip, your bike will likely be packed down with extra weight, which puts additional strain on your cables. Pack a replacement cable for the brakes and one for the derailleur.

  Lubrication: You’ll want to keep the parts of your bike — especially the chain — properly lubricated during your trip.

  Duct tape: This is the all-purpose MacGyver tool. If you have to hold something together on your bike until you g
et to the next town, duct tape may do the job.

  Giving your bike the once-over: A pre-ride inspection

  Next time you head out for a ride, take a moment to do a quick inspection of your bike. It’ll only take a few minutes and you just might prevent a bigger problem from happening. Trust us: You don’t want to be discovering that you have an issue with your brakes as you’re going full-speed down a hill.

  In the following sections, we cover all the things you should check before each and every ride.

  Wheels

  The quick-release levers on the wheels should be securely positioned in the closed position. Open and close the levers once to confirm that they’re tight. If you find that they’re loose, open the lever, turn the nut opposite the lever a quarter-turn and re-close the lever. When you’re sure that the levers are secure, move the wheel side to side check for looseness. Next, lift the wheel off the ground and give it a spin to see that it doesn’t wobble and that the rim doesn’t contact the brake pads at any point.

  Tires

  Check the air pressure of your tires with a pressure gauge and compare it with the recommended pressure listed on the sidewall. Under-inflated tires will drastically increase the rolling resistance, thereby increasing the amount of energy needed to pedal the bicycle. Properly inflated tires also better absorb any impact and protect the wheel from damage.

  While you’re checking the pressure, visually inspect the tires, looking for any cracks, cuts, or tears.