Bike Repair & Maintenance For Dummies®

by Dennis Bailey

  Brakes

  Give the brake levers a strong squeeze to ensure that the brakes firmly grip the wheels — you shouldn’t have to pull the levers more than halfway to the handlebars. Next, examine the brake pads and make sure they have sufficient rubber. Also pay attention to their position relative to the rim — they shouldn’t be too high (because they’ll rub a hole in the tire) or too low (because they could slip down into the spokes). There should be 1mm to 2mm of space between the pads and the rim.

  Handlebars

  Straddle the front wheel pinching it between your thighs. Grip the handlebars and try to twist them side to side. Try the same procedure, but this time straddle the frame, squeeze the brakes, and try to rock the bicycle back and forth. If there’s play in the handlebars or stem, it could mean either that the clamp bolts need to be tightened or you have a loose headset, which could be dangerous at high speeds.

  Pedals and cranks

  Just as you checked for looseness with the handlebars (see the preceding section), you’ll want to do the same with the pedals and cranks. First, grab a crank in each hand and try to shake them. If there is looseness, fixing it may be as simple as tightening the crank bolts, or you may have issues with the bottom bracket. Confirm that the pedals spin freely but that you can’t pull them away from the cranks.

  While You Ride

  One of the best ways to extend the life of your bike doesn’t require a special tool or a fresh application of lube. All you have to do is be careful when you ride.

  Although modern bikes are designed to withstand a significant amount of punishment, try to avoid riding in a way that puts additional strain on your bike or, even worse, increases the likelihood of an accident. Here are some steps you can take while riding, to prolong the life of your bike:

  Pay attention to the road in front of you. Your goal is to avoid obstacles like rocks, potholes, and other hazards, which, if impacted, could result in a bent rim or other problem.

  Instead of jumping or riding across a curb, dismount and walk your bike.

  Shift into your lowest gear before you reach the steepest section of a climb. Trying to shift when you’re barely moving puts a lot of strain on the chain and derailleurs. If the chain springs off the largest cog, into the spokes, the damage will be even greater.

  If you have to go over a bump, raise yourself off the saddle and use your arms and legs as shock absorbers as if you were a horse jockey. This lessens the impact of the blow.

  When riding, you should listen to your bike. If it makes awkward noises or grinds in certain operations, it’s time to diagnose the ailment before it gets worse and destroys internal parts.

  After You Ride

  Even though you may be ready to relax and kick back with a cold one after your ride, if you take care of a few issues (like cleaning and lubricating your bike), your bike will last longer.

  Cleaning your bike

  Unless you’re a part of the U.S. Olympic team and are training on an indoor track, your bike is going to get dirty. If you’re like us and you love the outdoors, you probably don’t mind dirt. Hopping on a mountain bike and plowing your way through mud-covered mountain passes and rolling streams may bring back the joy of childhood and your mother chasing you through the house as you left muddy footprints behind.

  Your bike feels much differently about dirt and grime, though. Dirt acts as an abrasive and, as it works its way into the internal parts of your bike, it starts wearing out bearings and other components. Even if your bike isn’t covered in mud and grime, dust can build up inside the chain, gears, bearings, and other parts. A bike that you haven’t washed for a while because you think it’s fairly clean may be wearing out unnecessarily with each turn of the crank.

  If you could do only one thing in this book to care for your bike, it would be to wash your bike frequently. If you ride in wet, muddy, or dusty weather, we recommend that you clean your bike immediately at the end of your ride. If you ride your bike in normal conditions, you probably can get away with cleaning it every week or two (maybe longer, if you live in a dry climate).

  If your bike appears fairly clean after riding, all it may need is a quick wipe-down. Use a damp cloth or paper towels to wipe off any dust or dirt that may have accumulated on the frame, the fork, the handlebars, and the cranks.

  If your bike is a dirty or hasn’t been cleaned in a week or two, it’s time to do a serious cleaning. Here are the supplies you need to clean your bike:

  Bucket

  Dishwashing soap, car cleaner, or a cleaner from your local bike shop

  Sponge

  Brushes (such as a toothbrush, bottle brush, and a bathroom cleaning brush, or a specialized brush designed to clean hard-to-reach places on your bike, such as between the sprockets)

  Degreaser

  A clean rag

  Car wax

  If you have a bike stand, use it to clean your bike. You’ll be able to rotate the cranks to clean the chain and you’ll have easier access to other parts of the bike, such as the rear derailleur.

  To clean your bike properly, follow these steps:

  1. Fill a bucket with warm water and a cleaning agent.

  2. Wet your bike with a hose without a spray nozzle.

  Avoid spraying water directly at your bike, especially toward the hubs or bottom bracket. This may force water and dirt into your bearings and break down the grease in which they’re packed.

  3. Use a brush or sponge and soapy water, and brush off as much caked-on mud or dirt from the bike as you can.

  Brush in between the sprockets to remove any dirt trapped inside (see Figure 16-1.

  4. Spray degreaser on the freewheel, derailleur, chain, and chain ring (see Figure 16-2).

  Allow a couple of minutes for the degreaser to penetrate the parts, and then brush it off with a brush.

  5. Use a brush or sponge to wash down the entire bike.

  Make sure you dig out dirt between the cogs and wherever else it hides. A specially designed brush (available as most bike shops) is useful for this procedure (see Figure 16-3).

  6. Rinse the bike with a hose.

  7. Dry the bike using a clean rag.

  You can use a rag or a strip of cloth to wipe away water from between the sprockets (see Figure 16-4), beside the hubs, and around the derailleurs.

  Figure 16-1: Using a brush to clean the sprockets.

  Figure 16-2: Degreasing various parts of a bike.

  Figure 16-3: Digging out dirt between the cogs.

  Figure 16-4: Using a cloth to clean between the sprockets.

  8. If you have time, apply car wax to the frame and remove it using a clean rag.

  9. Lubricate your bike following the steps in the next section.

  When you remove grease on your bike by cleaning it, you’ll need to lubricate its parts afterwards. Washing and lubricating your bike go hand in hand — if you wash your bike, you should be prepared to follow it with a lube job.

  Giving your bike a lube job

  When you clean your bike, you’ll likely remove a lot of lubrication and your bike will be thirsty for a fresh dose of oil and grease.

  If you’re a typical recreational rider, you may only have to give your bike a quick lube job every week or two. But if you’re riding in wet weather or you’re taking long bike trips, you should oil your bike more frequently. Just like the pre-ride inspection (earlier in this chapter), a lube job is quick and easy — you can do it in a few minutes, and it’ll provide many benefits for your bike.

  Many of the parts of a bike that require oil are not fully exposed, which makes it harder to get the oil into the right place. For this, we recommend using a spray can with a thin, straw-like extension. You’ll be able to insert the extension into small, hard-to-reach areas such as inside the brake levers.

  Here are the parts of your bike you’ll want to lubricate after cleaning:

  Brakes: Spray some oil into the brake pivot points to keep them in working order and to prevent rust (see Figure 16-5)
. Be careful not to get any on the brake pads or rims, because this will impact your bike’s braking capacity. Also, give a shot of lube to the spot where the cable is attached.

  Brake levers: Apply oil to the brake-lever pivots (see Figure 16-6). Pull back on the brake lever and spray the exposed cable. Be sure to cover the cable adjusters with lube to protect them from rust.

  Figure 16-5: Lubricating the brakes.

  Derailleurs: There are several pivot points where the front and rear derailleurs move. Cover each of these with a quick shot of lube. On the front derailleur, lubricate the pivot point (see Figure 16-7) On the rear derailleur, be sure to spray both of the pulley wheels (see Figure 16-8).

  Figure 16-6: Lubricating the brake levers.

  Figure 16-7: Lubricating the front derailleur.

  Figure 16-8: Lubricating the rear derailleur.

  Chain and sprockets: Of all the parts to lubricate on a bike, the chain is the most important. A poorly lubricated chain will wear out quickly and can shorten the lifespan of your chainrings and sprocket. Apply an even amount of lube to the chain while you’re turning the cranks (see Figure 16-9). You want to make sure that the oil does more than coat the surface but works its way into the individual chain links. If you notice that there is buildup of dirt and grime on the chain, clean it first with a degreaser and then apply a fresh coat of lubrication. When you’re finished with the chain, apply a few drops of lube to the sprockets (see Figure 16-10).

  Cables: Give a light spray of oil to where the inner cable exits from the cable housing (see Figure 16-11). If you have a couple of minutes, remove the cable from the stop and give a spray into the cable housing.

  After you’re done lubricating your bike, be sure to use a rag and wipe any excess oil off your bike to prevent it from attracting dirt and grime.

  Figure 16-9: Lubricating the chain.

  Figure 16-10: Lubricating the sprockets.

  Figure 16-11: Lubricating cables.

  Storing your bike

  How you store your bike is an important factor in its maintenance. Protecting your bike from the elements should be the most important consideration in storing it. Even for short-term storage such as overnight or for a few days, you should try to bring it indoors whenever possible. If you leave it outside, it’ll be more exposed to wind, rain, and dirt, all of which can have a negative effect on your bike.

  If you must store your bike outside for any period of time, consider buying a bike cover or even a tarp. This will provide some protection from rain and from dust and dirt blowing into its parts.

  If you live in a part of the country that has a less-than-forgiving climate, you may want to store your bike for a longer period of time. If you’re planning on taking your bike off the road for an extended period of time and keeping it in storage, take the following steps to preserve its condition:

  Give it a complete cleaning and lube job. This is the most basic step you can take before storing your bike.

  Overhaul the hubs, bottom bracket, headset, and derailleurs; pack all the bearings in fresh grease; and true the wheels. If you do all this before you put your bike in storage, it’ll be ready to roll as soon as that first warm day of spring arrives.

  Give your tires and tubes a break by letting the air out.

  Release the brake and shifter cables to take pressure off the springs. Some people argue that most modern metals won’t weaken from the continuous tension, but we like to take this step anyway. If you’d rather not take this step, you should at least open the quick-release mechanism for the brakes and shift the chain onto the smallest front sprocket and smallest rear cog — this is usually the derailleur position with the least spring tension.

  Store your bike indoors to protect it from the elements. This will help limit moisture and prevent rusting of internal parts. Also, avoid storing your bike where it could be knocked over — the rear derailleur is vulnerable and could be damaged in a fall.

  Consider hanging your bike from a hook on the wall or ceiling — either by the wheels or by the frame. Not only will you save some space but you’ll protect the tires from supporting weight in the same position for a long period of time. Dennis thinks a bike hanging on the wall is a decorative touch for a room, although not everyone (including his wife) agrees with him on that.

  Chapter 17

  Regular Bike Maintenance

  In This Chapter

  Performing monthly maintenance on your bike

  Doing an annual overhaul of your bike

  Owning a bike has its privileges. Zipping around turns, wind rushing through your hair, passing cars in traffic, leaving the world and all your cares behind you as you ride off into the countryside — it doesn’t get much better than this! Of course, owning a bike also entails responsibilities. Unless you have unlimited money and don’t mind buying a new bike every year or two, caring for and maintaining your bike is important.

  Maintenance is also critical if you care about personal safety. Unless you’re an 18-year-old risk taker, you probably aren’t willing to take the chance that making a sharp turn, dodging a pothole, or slamming on the brakes will land you in the emergency room. Keeping your bike in good working order by following the monthly and yearly maintenance steps outlined in this chapter will go a long way toward making your riding experience a safe and enjoyable one.

  Whether you’re enthusiastic about maintenance or you view it as a chore, take the time today to schedule it. Write it on your calendar, put it in your PDA, do whatever it takes to remind yourself to do it. Otherwise, it’s likely to get lost in the shuffle of your busy life, no matter how good your intentions.

  We start this chapter by telling you what you need to do every month to maintain the health of your bike. Monthly maintenance is all about keeping your bike clean and lubricated and inspecting your bike for potential safety issues. You can do this monthly maintenance check in 30 minutes or less. We end the chapter with the annual tune-up and overhaul, which requires more time but will dramatically extend the life and safety of your bike.

  Monthly Maintenance

  Once a month, set aside half an hour or so to give your bike the once-over. Specifically, there are nine steps that you should take every month — everything from checking the tires to cleaning.

  One way to stay on top of your monthly maintenance is to choose a day of the month that you can easily remember. For example, if your birthday is June 13, do your maintenance on the 13th day of every month.

  Surveying your bike for structural damage

  Examine your bike for signs of stress and structural damage. Visually inspect each part of the frame for cracks or other visible signs of wear and tear. For the hard-to-see parts of the frame, such as the underside, rub your hands along the surface to feel for bumps or ripples. Pay particular attention to areas where the frame is welded. On aluminum frames, in particular, look for any hairline cracks or weak points.

  Hold the wheel between your legs and turn the handlebars side to side. If there is movement in the handlebar or stem, you may need to tighten the clamp bolts on the handlebars, tighten the stem bolt, or adjust your headset (see Chapter 15).

  Kicking the tires

  Lift each tire off the ground and give it a spin to see if it’s spinning in alignment. As the wheel spins, keep your eyes fixed on the brake pad as it rotates, looking for any wobble. If you see any wobble, it’s probably time to true the wheel (see “Truing the wheel,” later in this chapter).

  You’ll be able to examine the alignment better if you have a bike stand. You can also turn the bike upside down, being careful to protect the shifters. Or have a friend lift the tire off the ground while you spin the wheel and examine it.

  Also, inspect the tires for signs of wear, such as cracks, cuts, tears, or bulging. If you have a badly worn tire, it should be replaced immediately (see Chapter 6). Examine the tread and remove any debris or objects that may be lodged inside.

  Finally, check for tightness in the spokes. Check two spokes at a
time, grabbing them between your thumb and finger to test for what should be an even tension around the wheel. In the rear wheel, one side may have a slightly different tension then the other, but these should be uniform for each half. If you find any spokes that have too much or too little tension, make an adjustment with a spoke wrench (see Chapter 7).

  Cleaning your bike

  Even though we recommend in Chapter 16 that you give your bike a proper cleaning after every ride (if you ride in especially muddy or dirty conditions) or at least weekly, let’s face it: Most people probably won’t do it that often. If you don’t have the time to clean your bike after every ride or once a week, you really do need to do it during your monthly inspection.

  Dirt is your bike’s worst enemy. Over time, it works its way into your bike’s parts, causing them to wear out faster.

  Turn to Chapter 16 for instructions on how to properly clean your bike.

  Cleaning your bike is easier the more frequently you do it. If you wait until it’s caked in mud and covered in grime, it’ll take you a lot longer to get the job done. If you stay on top of cleaning after every ride (or at least once a week), you’ll be able to finish the job much faster.

  Giving your bike a lube job

  You probably wouldn’t dream of driving your car without changing the oil every three months or 3,000 miles. And you should take the same approach with your bike.

  Your bike has many movable parts that require lubrication to reduce friction and stay in good working order. A lube job is especially important if you’ve been riding frequently, if you’ve been riding in wet or dry conditions, or if you’ve just cleaned your bike.