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Clarks: Made to Last

Page 39

by Mark Palmer


  retirement 161–2

  succeeded by Bancroft 228

  Somerset Anthology 11, 12–13

  Clark, Sarah (1946–) 316, 331

  Clark, Sarah (née Bancroft) 103, 104–7, 141, 149, 156, 157, 286

  Clark, Sarah (née Bull) 14, 15, 16, 39, 54

  Clark, Sarah (née Gregory) 54

  Clark, Sarah Brockbank (née Satterthwaite) 100

  Clark, Sarah Elizabeth (Bessie) 12, 54, 77

  Clark, Sophia 33

  Clark, Stephen 149, 206, 242

  education 149

  joins Avalon Leather Board Company 149

  Spanish Civil War 149

  works at Joseph Bancroft & Son in America 149, 149

  Springbok 148

  praises Bancroft 150

  chairman of Avalon Industries 209, 210

  Company Secretary of C. & J. Clark 210, 229

  disagreement with Ralph Clark 210

  and the Shoe Museum 235–6

  Clark, Thomas (first cousin of Cyrus and James) 39, 40–41, 62, 64, 68

  Clark, Thomas, Snr (son of John Clark IV) 11

  Clark, Thomas Beaven 12, 54, 71, 72, 73, 75, 76, 77–8

  Clark, Thomas Bryant 50

  Clark, Tom 331, 354

  Clark, Tony see Clark, J. Anthony

  Clark, William Bancroft 107, 140, 149, 171, 205, 238, 250, 286

  education 228

  on retailing 143–4

  foreign travel 145

  becomes a director 145

  and Avalon Leather Board Company 148, 150

  Clarks logo 150–51

  on decentralisation 158

  committed to post-war creativity 160–61

  chairman of Clarks 3, 161

  and women’s buying power 165–6

  and workers’ time-keeping 170

  and productivity 169–70

  managers’ budgets and ‘blue’ book 170

  a member of ‘the Holy Trinity’ 170, 171

  on CEMA 175–6

  on the footgauge 180

  col. pl. 8

  and the Desert Boot 185

  and overseas policy 188–9

  criticism of Nathan 189–90

  and Peter Lord 193–4

  on the independent retailer 194–5

  on Clore group 197, 215

  on Clarks expansion 200

  visits Russia and Ukraine 201

  and Canada 202, 203

  worries about finding jobs for family members 206

  retirement (1967) 206, 228, 229

  chairman of C. & J. Clark 208, 228–9

  chairman of Clarks Ltd 208

  sides with Stephen against Ralph 210

  complains to Keith Joseph about British Shoe Corporation 214–15

  on style 220

  and sourcing shoes from outside the UK 221

  Pedder chosen as his personal assistant 222–3

  and McKinsey report 225

  chairman of Street Estates Limited 228

  personal tribute to Peter Clothier 235

  authority over family members 260

  on Tony Clark 285

  and Tindale’s appointment 287

  thanks Daniel for his work 288

  and Henry Moore 305

  death (1993) 327

  obituaries 327

  ‘Management Changes’ 206

  Clark, William Stephens 33, 38, 55, 109, 110, 114, 148, 149, 206

  education 46, 47

  joins the company 46

  introduces machinery into the shoe production process 2, 46–9

  at the heart of C. & J. Clark 3

  on the making of sheepskin rugs 18

  and the Crimean War 53

  on his brothers’ financial withdrawals 54–5

  concern with quality 59–60, 83

  on the firm’s inspectors 65–6

  succeeds the partners as chairman 32, 66

  rapid transformation of the business 67

  and technology 68–71, 354

  and wrangling over Cyrus’s will 72, 73–4

  marriage 78

  at Greenbank 79

  commissions Skipper to build Millfield 79–80

  forms partnership with James (1873) 80

  and strike over Hodges 86, 88

  at the centre of life in Street and beyond 3, 88, 119–21

  sets up Avalon Leather Board Company 90–91, 209

  and output-sales imbalance 93–4

  forms partnership with Frank (1889) 94

  lack of success in Ireland 95–7

  at Roger’s wedding in America 107

  health 108, 111, 321

  shareholdings in public limited company 108

  first foray into retailing 108–11

  semi-retirement 119

  heart attack and death (1925) 129–30, 137

  funeral 130–31

  patriarchal, paternal tradition established 134

  History of the Business of C&J Clark Limited 15–16, 37–8

  Clark, Son & Morland 78, 90, 103, 104, 125, 148

  Clark Shops 276–7, 277

  Clarke, Jack 175

  Clarks Australia Ltd 188, 189

  Clarks Code of Business Ethics 353

  Clarks Code of Practice 353

  Clarks Comments in-house publication 164, 165, 207, 216

  Clarks Companies North America (CCNA) 339–40, 346, 351

  Clarks Courier 143, 207–8, 218, 235, 251, 264, 266, 271, 272, 290, 292, 294, 298, 302, 306

  Clarks Europe 291

  Clarks factory, Street, Somerset 19, 51, 82, 121, 129

  Bull’s glove-making premises 15

  and brawl at 1832 General Election 28

  Netherleigh built next to the factory 31

  working hours 37, 84

  sewing machines introduced 5, 47–9, 83–4

  pollution 51

  clock tower 82, 130

  water tower 82

  ‘Big Room’ 82, 83, 84, 155, 264

  Pattern Room 83

  Cutting Room 83, 94

  Machine Room 47–8, 49, 69, 83, 108, 116, 132

  Making Room 83

  Treeing and Trimming Room 83, 108

  factory outings 90–91

  factory band 91

  education 3, 92, 123, 124–5

  Turnshoe department 108

  costings department 114

  personnel management department 119, 126

  Closing Room 119, 181, 192

  Factory Committee/Factory Council/Works Council 121, 134, 135, 136, 169, 231

  Rubber Department 146, 173

  decentralisation 157–8

  laboratory 173

  Margaret Lockwood’s visit 181–2, 181, 182

  sole room 197

  shoe designers 356

  Trend Department 356

  Clarks Foundation 3, 206, 207, 281, 353, 360

  Clarks Future Footwear Ltd 352

  Clarks International Ltd 305, 351

  Clarks Ireland Ltd 166, 188, 204

  Clarks Ltd 208, 224, 228, 229, 234, 259, 265

  Clarks name: typography 150–51

  col. pl. 5

  Clarks New Zealand Ltd 189

  Clarks of England Ltd 230, 339, 340

  Clarks of Kilmarnock 150

  Clarks Original Live magazine 357

  Clarks Originals 357

  Clarks Overseas Shoes Ltd 203, 208, 221, 229, 250

  Clarks Pension Trustees 283

  Clarks Properties 328

  Clarks Shoes Australia Ltd 229

  Clarks Shoes 293, 294, 305

  Clarks Shoes Ltd 282

  Clarks UK division 351

  Clarks Village, Street 328, 329, 330, 349

  Clarksport products 247–9

  Clash 246

  Claw, Israel 195

  clickers 29

  see also cutters

  ‘Clippers’ 153, 169, 227

  Clonwell, Ireland 31, 204

  Clore, Sir Charles

  background 195


  first purchases 195

  Sears acquisition 195–6

  Richard Shops 196

  buys up smaller shoe companies 196–7

  forms British Shoe Corporation 198

  fails to buy Barratts 212

  criticism of 219, 220

  chain of high street shops 342

  closers 30

  see also binders

  Clothier, Anthony 149, 206, 235, 269, 280, 287

  Clothier, Arthur, partner in wool and tanning business 2, 13, 14

  Clothier, Esther (née Clark) 108, 110, 140–41, 170

  Clothier, James 11

  Clothier, John 235, 276, 282, 285–6, 292, 293, 301, 306, 311, 312, 322, 327, 328, 334

  Clothier, Peter T. 141, 149, 171, 193, 206, 226, 276, 282, 334

  a member of ‘the Holy Trinity’ 170, 171

  and Avalon Leather Board Company 170

  a director of C. & J. Clark 170

  expertise in machinery 170

  and the Mayflower factory 172

  and younger generation 213, 235

  and British Shoe Corporation 213–14

  managing director of C. & J. Clark 229, 236

  retirement 235, 238

  Clothier, Samuel Thompson (Tom) 122, 122, 139–40, 141

  Clothier, Violet 149

  Clothier family 170

  Club and Institute Committee 130

  Club shoes 218

  Clutterbuck, David and Devine, Marion: Clore: The Man and his Millions 195–6

  Co-operative Banks of Germany 311

  Coaxley family 10

  Cobden, Richard 78

  Cochran, Charles B. 151, 153

  Cole, Michael 333

  Collett Dickenson Pearce (CDP) 5, 252–4, 257

  Colman, Royston 338–9

  Colonial Development Corporation 210

  ‘Colorado’ sandals 152

  competition 9

  from America 33, 94–5, 99, 103, 108, 111

  burgeoning shoe manufacturing business in France 33

  Northampton’s shoe industry hit by imports from Europe 33–4

  after introduction of sewing machines and riveting 57

  E.C. Sadler & Co. 85

  necessary to stand out from other UK shoemakers 99

  in lower grades of shoes 129

  rival shoemakers in 134, 135

  in fashion shoe sector 232

  Computer Aided Design Centre (CADC), Cambridge 262

  computer-aided design (CAD) 260–62, 261, 262, 355, 355

  computer-aided manufacturing (CAM) 260–62

  Conrad Jameson Associates 258

  conscientious objectors 156

  Construction Electric Mediano Automatico (CEMA) machine 174–6

  Contura 257

  Conventicle Act (1664) 10

  conveyor systems 145–6, 278–9

  Cook, Howard 276

  Cool Britannia campaign 187

  Cool for Cats troupe 216

  Cooper, Allen & Co 188

  cordwainers 19

  Cork 31, 95

  Corn Laws 9

  ‘Cornish pasty’ shoe 257, 258

  Cornwall 31

  Corporation Tax 225

  Corri, Adrienne 241–2

  Cotterell, Jacob H. 72

  Cottier, Bob 175

  Cotton, Malcolm 263, 272, 308

  joins Clarks 265

  head of the Clarks men’s division 248

  ‘Levi’s for feet’ 250

  and factory closures 264

  works in Ireland 265, 280

  Silflex closure 265

  managing director of Clarks Ltd 272, 294

  in Australia 282, 285, 293, 294

  a director of C. & J. Clark Ltd 282

  support for Daniel 285

  on the two-board situation 303

  and reshuffled hierarchy 306

  comments at Orchard Room meeting 319

  Extraordinary General Meeting (1993) 323

  deputy managing director 327

  meets Tim Parker 335

  managing director (operations) of C. & J. Clark Ltd 265, 334–5

  Coultas, Brian 318

  Council of the Duchy of Lancaster 315

  Council of Lloyds 314

  Country Club casual range 236

  court shoes 174, 253, 261–2, 271

  Cowmead raw material warehouse 232

  Cowshed café, Clarks headquarters, Street 359

  Craddock Brothers 224

  ‘craft societies’ 49

  Craftmasters 218

  ‘credit crunch’ 349

  Crest Nicholson 354

  Crew Clothing 349

  Crick & Sons 83

  Cricklewood Skating Rink, north-west London 195

  Crimean War (1853–6) 52–4, 92

  Crispin, St 69

  Crispin Hall, High Street, Street 90, 91, 91, 92, 112, 119, 131, 154, 235

  Crispin machine 69, 84, 85

  Crispin School, Street 207

  Crockett & Jones 218

  Croft, Annabel 278

  Cromwell, Oliver 18

  Crookenden, Spencer 266, 267, 268, 269, 270

  K Shoes: The First 150 Years, 1842–1992 133, 267, 283

  Crossfield family 24

  Croxley Green, Hertfordshire 164

  Crumplin, Kevin 306, 307, 315, 338

  Crumplin, Dr Tim 221

  Crutchlow, Ken 186–7, 186

  CSM3D 262

  Cubism 151

  Curtess (previously Fortress Shoe Company) 197, 276, 296

  cutters 29, 44, 84

  see also clickers

  Czechoslovakia 144, 245

  Daily Express 152

  Daily Mirror 164, 220

  Daily Telegraph 4, 226, 309, 315, 318, 320, 322, 345

  ‘Dainty’ shoes 111

  Daisy ‘Magic Steps’ shoes col. pl. 12

  Daladier, Edouard 156

  Dalgety & Co. 97

  dancing shoes 137

  col. pl. 4

  Daniels, Bebe 153

  Darvill, Tony 260, 261–2

  David Z store, SoHo, New York 187

  Davies, Peter 349, 350, 360

  Davis, Jack 203

  Davis, Professor John A.: Clarks at a Crossroads 289

  Davos Platz, Switzerland 103

  Dawe, Cedric 216

  Day Continuation School, Street 3, 92, 123

  Day, Peter 332

  de Klerk, President 333

  De Paula, Agnes (née Clark) 286

  De Paula, Clive 286, 287

  Death Valley, California 186, 186

  Debenhams 213

  decentralisation 157–8, 168

  Delaware 104, 105, 107, 285

  Delaware Art Museum 105

  Dempster, Judith 150

  Denmark 98, 144, 230, 259

  Clarks mannequin show (Copenhagen, 1948) 182

  department stores 4, 95, 117, 350, 352

  Derbyshire, Judith 312

  Desert Boot 5, 175, 184–7, 186, 286, 289–90, 357

  col. pls. 9, 14

  Desert Yarra col. pl. 14

  Design Museum, The, London 187

  Devon 31

  Devonshire, Alan 278

  DG Bank 311

  Diamond Shoes Ltd 203

  Diana, Princess 271

  Dickens, Charles: Oliver Twist 34

  Dickson, Walter

  known as ‘the man from Mars’ 301

  earlier career 301

  on family business structure 302–3

  new management structure (from 1992) 305–6

  expertise in brand management 307

  Extraordinary General Meeting (1992) 308–14, 314

  Orchard Room meeting 318–19

  Extraordinary General Meeting (1993) 321, 324

  his promise after the EGM 325

  resignation 326

  Dietrich, Marlene 137

  Dillinger 357

  discount stores 327, 349

  Doc Martens 246, 290

&nb
sp; Dolcis 197, 275, 276, 307, 342

  Doncaster 328, 329

  Dorset 31

  Douglas Home, William: The Secretary Bird 206

  Down shoe factory, Belfast 243

  Downes, John 117

  Dresdner Kleinwort Benson 344

  ‘dress shoes’ 244, 346

  du Maurier, Daphne col. pl. 7

  Dublin 31, 59, 95

  ‘Dude’ 250

  Dugmore, Eric 311

  Dundalk, Ireland 166, 203, 205, 248, 265, 280

  Dunlop 112

  Dunstan, St, Abbot of Glastonbury (later Archbishop of Canterbury) 7

  Dylan, Bob 5, 187

  Eastern England 31

  Eaton, Joseph 39

  E. C. Sadler & Co. 85

  Ecco 259, 297, 312

  EcoHomes ‘Excellent’ standard 354

  Economist, The 62, 118

  Eddy, Mary Baker 127

  Eden Construction Company 270

  Edgar, John 36

  Edinburgh 32, 108, 230

  Edinburgh, Prince Philip, Duke of 182, 271

  Edinburgh University 210

  Edmonds, Noel 271

  Edmonson, Thomas 24

  Education Act (1918) 124

  Edward I, King 7

  Edward VI, King 8

  Edward VII, King 102

  Edwards, David 312

  Egon Zendor 350

  Eight-Eyelet 1460 model 246

  Eighth Army 184

  Eindhoven, Holland 250

  Eleanor, Queen 7

  Electra Investment Trust 309, 312, 314

  Elefanten 297, 347, 349

  Elizabeth, Queen, the Queen Mother 218

  Elizabeth II, Queen (and as Princess Elizabeth) 182, 183, 198–9, 218, 230, 312

  Ellesmere Port, Cheshire 212

  Elmhurst, Street 54, 54, 63

  Elmsleigh shopping centre, Staines, Middlesex 271

  Elstree Studios, Hertfordshire 216

  Empress of the Skies aircrash (1948) 188

  English Heritage 90

  Enoch Taylor 97

  Enterprise Shoe Company 188

  Epstein, Sir Jacob 140

  Esquire magazine 186

  Europa Hotel, off Oxford Street, London 241, 242

  Europe: Clarks’ current turnover (to year ending 31 January 2012) 352

  European Economic Community 244

  European Shoe Federation 206

  European Union 297

  Exmouth, Devon 171

  Exposition Internationale des Arts Décoratifs Industriels et Modernes (Paris, 1925) 137

  Face magazine 290

  Factory 2000 299

  factory shops 328

  factory systems 114–15, 274, 299

  Falk, Millicent 124

  family shareholder council (Street Trustee Family Company) 4, 326, 330–32, 331, 343, 349, 354, 359–60

  Far East 4, 118, 232, 308, 346

  Farmer, Patrick 306

  Faroe Islands 187

  ‘Fastnet’ 247

  Feature Shoes 177

  Federated Associations of Boot and Shoe Manufacturers 177

  Feilden Clegg Bradley 354

  Felixstowe 348

  fellmongering 13, 27

  Ferragamo, Salvatore 246

  Fiennes, Michael 259–60, 312

  Fiennes, Sir Ranulph 259

 

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