Salad for Dinner
Page 7
1⁄2 recipe Rustic Croutons (p. XX), made
1 large egg yolk
needed
with white peasant-style bread
1 tablespoon mustard
Kosher salt
Chunk of Gruyère, preferably cave-aged,
for shaving
More about escarole
This is the type of salad that we frequently make late night after a very busy day—a Look for escarole at the market in the
day when we resort to (ahem) boxed macaroni and cheese for the kids and fend for fall and winter—it becomes unpleasantly
ourselves later. We generally have escarole or other chicories in the garden, fresh bitter and tough when the weather turns
eggs from our chickens, and bacon and bread in the freezer.
warm. Like frisée, escarole has green
You can make this salad with baby spinach in lieu of the escarole, which is equally outer leaves and pale yel ow-green to
delicious. I call for traditional bacon lardons (see p. XX), but you can use standard white interior leaves, or hearts. The
sliced bacon (about 1⁄8 inch thick) cut crosswise into 1⁄2-inch-wide pieces as well; just crisp, mildly bitter hearts are what you
reduce the cooking time. For a slightly different salad, try pushing the eggs though a want for salads. Avoid bunches with
coarse sieve rather than cutting them into quarters.
wilted or browning outer leaves or
green hearts. To use, remove the green
serves 4
outer leaves and discard or reserve for
another use. (If not too tough or bitter,
Put 1⁄4 cup water in a large (10-inch) sauté pan over medium heat and add
they can be wilted or sautéed or added
the bacon in an even layer. When the bacon starts to sizzle, reduce the heat
to soups.) Trim off any dark green tips
to medium low (you want the bacon to render slowly) and cook, stirring
and cut off the root end, then cut or tear
occasionally, until golden and lightly crisp (not hard), 15 to 20 minutes.
the leaves into smal er pieces, or leave
Remove the bacon with a slotted spoon and transfer to a paper-towel-
whole and gently separate.
lined plate to drain. Set aside.
Bring a medium-size pot of water to boil. Have an ice bath ready. Gently
add the eggs, reduce the heat to a gentle boil, and set the timer for
9 minutes. When the timer goes off, immediately remove the eggs from
the water and transfer them to the ice bath to cool. Peel and set aside.
To make the mayonnaise vinaigrette, whisk the egg yolk, mustard, and
1⁄2 teaspoon water in a small bowl. Begin whisking the egg yolk and slowly start adding the oil, literally a drop at a time. As the mixture begins to
thicken and emulsify, gradually add more oil in a thin, steady stream until
38 leafy salads
the mixture is perfectly emulsified. Whisk in the garlic, vinegar, and a pinch of salt. Add cool water to thin as needed—you want the dressing to
drizzle nicely. Taste with a leaf of lettuce and adjust with more vinegar or
salt if necessary.
Just before serving, cut the eggs into quarters and season with salt and
black pepper. Put the escarole in a large work bowl. Season the greens
with salt and black pepper. Gently but thoroughly toss the salad with just
enough vinaigrette to lightly coat the greens. Taste and add more salt
or dressing if necessary. Add the croutons and toss once more. With a
delicate hand, transfer the salad to a platter or individual serving plates,
evenly distributing the croutons that may have fallen to the bottom of the
work bowl. Scatter the bacon on top and tuck the eggs here and there.
Finish with several shavings of Gruyère and serve immediately.
leafy salads 39
herb salad with beets,
oranges & almonds
3 large handfuls arugula, about
1 shallot, finely diced
1 fennel bulb, trimmed and washed
5 ounces total
6 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice;
1 cup almonds, toasted and sliced
1 small handful fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves
more as needed
(see note on p. 42)
1 small handful fresh chervil leaves
Kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper
1 small handful fresh cilantro leaves
6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
6 medium beets, roasted, peeled,
1 small handful fresh basil leaves
4 medium oranges, peeled, cut into rounds,
cut into 1⁄2-inch wedges or jewels,
and lightly pickled (see p. XX)
1 small handful fresh mint leaves
and chilled (see p. 42)
add substance
When perfectly fresh and handled just so, there are few salads as beautiful as a Tuck a few seared sea scallops here and
collection of fresh herbs. I’m fortunate to be able to pick herbs and greens from my there, or serve sliced gril ed or sautéed
garden and toss them together almost à la minute. Short of harvesting from your chicken or duck breast on the side. Petite
garden, make this salad on market day with lively bunches of herbs. It takes a little lamb chops, cooked hot and fast, taste
time to pick them carefully, so have an “herb moment”.
great with this salad, too.
Keep in mind that herb salads want to be dressed very lightly and require more acid and less olive oil than other leafy salads—a good amount of acid is needed to stand up to the pungent flavor of the herbs.
serves 4 to 6
Wash the arugula and herbs in a large basin of cool water, swishing the
water gently to remove any dirt and to combine the greens. Lift the greens
from the water and transfer to a colander to drain. Spin-dry in small
batches or layer between clean, lint-free kitchen towels to dry. Refrigerate
the lettuce-herb mixture until just before serving.
To make the vinaigrette, combine the shallot, lemon juice, and a pinch
of salt in a small bowl. Let sit for 5 to 10 minutes. Whisk in the olive oil.
Taste with a leaf of arugula and adjust the vinaigrette with more lemon
juice or salt if necessary. Set aside.
Just before serving, arrange the orange rounds on a large platter or
individual serving plates, leaving a convenient space for the lettuce-herb
mixture. Using a mandoline, thinly slice the fennel. Put the fennel and
lettuce-herb mixture in a large work bowl, sprinkle the almonds on top,
and season with salt and pepper. Very gently but thoroughly toss the
continued on page 42
40 leafy salads
continued from page 40
salad with just enough vinaigrette to lightly coat the herbs. (Herbs are
especially delicate and will fall limp on the plate if over-dressed.) Taste
and add more salt or a little more dressing if necessary. With a delicate
hand, transfer the salad to a platter or individual serving plates, making
a fluffy nest next to the oranges. Evenly distribute the almonds that may
have fallen to the bottom of the work bowl. Tuck the beets here and there.
Drizzle any remaining vinaigrette on and around the salad, focusing on
the oranges. Serve immediately.
note: The perfect almond for this salad is lightly toasted (see p. XX)
and sliced (one by one) lengthwise, then shook in a sieve to shake off the
almond dust. If this is too labor intensive (or if you’re
rolling your eyes at the idea of slicing almonds one by one), chop the almonds medium fine
and shake them in a sieve.
basic skills
To peel citrus, lay the fruit on its side
on a cutting board. With a very sharp
knife, cut off the top and bottom just
enough to expose the flesh. Stand the
fruit, cut side down, on the board and
cut the peel and pith away from the
flesh in wide strips, working from top to
bottom and slowly rotating the fruit as
you work. Trim away any leftover pith.
Turn the fruit on its side and slice into
rounds or cut into segments.
To segment citrus, working over
a bowl, hold the peeled fruit in the
palm of your hand and use a sharp
paring knife to cut down on each side
of the segments as close as possible
to the membrane. The segments wil
fall into the bowl as you work. Remove
any seeds. Squeeze the juice from the
remains on top; remove the segments
from the juice before using.
42 leafy salads
warm quail salad with
persimmon and pomegranate
1⁄4 cup pomegranate molasses
1 shallot, finely diced
Freshly ground black pepper
4 strips lemon zest (removed with a
21⁄2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar; more
4 large handfuls assorted lettuce and
vegetable peeler)
as needed
chicories, such as arugula, frisée, and
1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice
Kosher salt
Treviso, about 8 ounces, washed and dried
1 tablespoon roughly chopped fresh thyme
2 Fuyu persimmons, cored, peeled,
2⁄3 cup plus 2 tablespoons extra-virgin
and thinly sliced
4 semiboneless quail, wingtips trimmed
olive oil
2⁄3 cup pomegranate seeds
This elegant salad comes together fairly quickly if you have the quail marinated, the salad greens washed, and the pomegranate seeded ahead of time. Look for
semiboneless whole quail, or ask your butcher to remove the breastbone. In a pinch, cut whole quail down the middle of the backbone with scissors and flatten the birds out before pan-frying (you may have to cook the quail in two batches). You can also grill the quail over a medium-hot charcoal fire or gas grill for about the same amount of time on each side.
Be sure to use Fuyu persimmons for this salad. (Hachiya persimmons must be
mushy-soft before you can use them; save those for persimmon bread pudding.) Look for firm, bright-orange Fuyus with glossy skin.
This recipe makes enough for one quail per person—a light meal. You can easily double the quail and marinade if you like.
serves 4
In a medium bowl, combine the pomegranate molasses, lemon zest
and juice, and thyme. Put the quail in the bowl and turn to coat evenly
in the marinade. Cover the bowl and refrigerate for at least 2 hours or
overnight.
To make the vinaigrette, combine the shallot, vinegar, and a pinch of salt
in a small bowl. Let sit for 5 to 10 minutes. Whisk in 2⁄3 cup of the oil.
Taste with a leaf of lettuce and adjust the vinaigrette with more vinegar or
salt if necessary. Set aside.
Remove the quail from the marinade and remove any ingredients clinging
to the skin—a few thyme leaves are okay, but the lemon zest will burn as the
quail cooks. Season with salt and pepper on both sides.
continued on page 44
leafy salads 43
continued from page 43
Heat a large heavy skillet, preferably cast iron, over medium-high heat
until very hot. Add the remaining 2 tablespoons oil and place the quail
in the pan, breast side down, and cook until they brown and crisp, 2 to
3 minutes, adjusting the heat up or down if necessary. Turn the quail and
cook on the opposite side until cooked through, 2 to 3 minutes.
Put the salad greens, persimmon slices, and pomegranate seeds in a large
work bowl and season with salt and black pepper. Gently toss the salad with
just enough vinaigrette to lightly coat the greens. Taste and add more salt if necessary. With a delicate hand, transfer the salad to a platter or individual serving plates, evenly distributing any persimmon slices and pomegranate
seeds that may have fallen to the bottom of the bowl. Place the quail in the
nest of greens. Drizzle any remaining vinaigrette on and around the salad,
focusing on the quail. Serve immediately.
44 leafy salads
watercress with apple,
gruyère & walnuts
2 bunches small, tender watercress,
Kosher salt
1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
about 8 ounces total
1 shallot, finely diced
2 small- to medium-size crisp apples,
4 heads Belgian endive, about
2
such as Pink Lady, Sierra Beauty, or
1⁄2 tablespoons Champagne vinegar;
16 ounces total
more as needed
Granny Smith
3⁄4 cup walnuts, preferably new-crop
2 tablespoons freshly squeezed
Freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon plus 1⁄2 cup extra-virgin olive
lemon juice
Chunk of Gruyère, preferably cave-aged,
oil; more as needed
for shaving
add substance
I never tire of this classic combination. Look for lively, dark green watercress with For dinner, serve with sliced chicken
thin, tender stems. Other garden cresses, such as peppercress or curly cress, are or duck breast, or a few thin slices of
also lovely in this salad. Their delicate leaves look especially beautiful on the plate.
bresola, Italian air-dried beef.
Garden cresses are generally sold in bulk at the farmers’ market and well-stocked produce markets.
Cave-aged Gruyère, which has crystallized bits, is the cheese you want here. And, for a trifecta, use new-crop walnuts (nuts that have just been harvested). For a slightly different salad, use Parmigiano-Reggiano in place of the gruyère and pear in place of the apple. Freshly shaved fennel with either the apple or pear variation is another option.
serves 4
Heat the oven to 350°F.
Trim the watercress and remove any tough stems and wilted or yellow
leaves, so sprigs are fairly short, about 3 inches long. Pluck off any
damaged outer leaves from the Belgian endive, then cut in half through
the root end. Holding your knife at an angle, cut the endive crosswise
into 1-inch-thick slices. Wash the greens in a large basin of cool water,
swishing the water gently to remove any dirt and to combine the greens.
Lift the greens from the water and transfer to a colander to drain. Spin-
dry in small batches or layer between clean, lint-free kitchen towels to dry.
Refrigerate the greens until just before serving.
Spread the walnuts in an even layer on a baking sheet and toast in the oven
until they smell (and taste) toasty, about 8 minutes. To remove the skins,
transfer the nuts to a clean, lint-free towel when they come out of the
oven. While the nuts are hot, roll them in the towel and gently squeeze
and massage them to remove the skins and simultaneously break the nuts
into slightly smaller, bite-size pieces. Transfer the nuts to a bowl, leaving
continued
on page 46
leafy salads 45
continued from page 45
the skins behind. Immediately toss the warm nuts with 1 tablespoon of the
olive oil and season with salt. Set aside.
To make the vinaigrette, combine the shallot, vinegar, lemon juice,
mustard, and a pinch of salt in a small bowl. Let sit for 5 to 10 minutes.
Whisk in the remaining 1⁄2 cup olive oil. Taste with a leaf of lettuce and
adjust the vinaigrette with more vinegar or salt if necessary; or, if too
acidic, add a little more olive oil. Set aside.
Just before serving, scrub the apples, then halve, core, and thinly slice
them. Put the salad greens in a large work bowl, scatter the apple slices
basic skills
on top, and season with salt and pepper. Gently toss the salad with just
To core an apple or pear quickly and
enough vinaigrette to lightly coat the greens. Taste and add more salt if
easily, cut around the core rather than
necessary. With a delicate hand, transfer the salad to a platter or individual through the core. You can use the same
serving plates. Scatter the walnuts on top and finish with several thick
method to cut around the pit of stone
shavings of Gruyère. Serve immediately.
fruits, such as nectarines, peaches, and
plums. And, on a miniature scale, you
can cut cherries and olives the same way.
Stand the fruit on the cutting board.
Using a sharp knife, cut about 1⁄3 inch
from the stem and slice off just less than
half the fruit. (If you hit the core or pit,
cut again a little farther from the stem.)
Turn the fruit and repeat on the opposite
side, cutting again about 1⁄3 inch from
the stem. Push the fruit over so it’s flat
on the cutting board and slice off the
remaining flesh, cutting just outside the
core or pit.
To slice the fruit, put the pieces on the
cutting board flat side down and slice
as you like.
46 leafy salads
belgian endive and frisée with
crab, fennel & citrus vinaigrette
3⁄4 pound crabmeat (or 2 live
1 shallot, finely diced
11⁄2 tablespoons freshly squeezed
Dungeness crabs)
3 tablespoons Champagne or white-wine
orange juice
2 heads Belgian endive, about 10 ounces
vinegar
Kosher salt