Salad for Dinner
Page 8
1 small head Treviso, or 1⁄2 small head
11⁄2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon
3⁄4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
radicchio, about 41⁄2 ounces
juice; more as needed
1 large bulb fennel, trimmed
3 handfuls frisée, pale center leaves only,
1 teaspoon finely grated orange zest
Freshly ground black pepper
about 41⁄2 ounces
basic skills
Make this salad in the late fall or early spring when crab is in season. I like to buy To cook live Dungeness crabs, first
live Dungeness crabs and cook and pick them myself, but this task is not for the faint bring a large pot of water to a rol ing
of heart, since you have to plunge live crabs into boiling water. You can also find boil, then careful y put the crabs in the
freshly picked crab at your fish market. Ask to taste a sample before you buy to be pot. (This task is easy when you use
certain it’s fresh.
large tongs and place the crabs in the
serves 4 to 6
pot bel y up.) Cook the crabs at a steady
boil for 13 minutes (for medium-size
crabs). Remove from the pot, transfer
To cook and clean live Dungeness crabs, see the sidebar at left. Put the
to a baking sheet, and refrigerate until
picked crabmeat in a small bowl. Run your fingers through it and remove
cool, about 1 hour.
any bits of shell. Refrigerate until just before serving.
To clean a crab, pull away the top
Pluck off any damaged outer leaves from the Belgian endive and Treviso,
shel . Discard it and the internal organs.
and then cut in half through the root end. Holding your knife at an angle,
Remove and discard the grayish-colored
cut them into 1⁄4-inch-thick slices. Discard the root ends. Wash the endive,
gil s attached to the sides of the body.
Treviso, and frisée in a large basin of cool water, swishing the water gently
Turn the crab over and remove the
to remove any dirt and to combine the greens. Lift the greens from the
apron—the hinged piece of shell on the
water and transfer to a colander to drain. Spin-dry in small batches or
midsection of the crab. Working over the
layer between clean, lint-free kitchen towels to dry. Refrigerate the lettuce
sink, hold the crab legs and body with
until just before serving.
both hands and break the crab in half—
it should snap right down the middle.
To make the vinaigrette, combine the shallot, vinegar, lemon juice,
Remove the legs and rinse the body
orange zest and juice, and a pinch of salt in a small bowl. Let sit for 5 to
under cold running water.
10 minutes. Whisk in the oil. Taste with a leaf of lettuce and adjust the
To crack the shells, use a nutcracker,
vinaigrette with more lemon juice or salt if necessary. Set aside.
kitchen shears, or meat mal et to crack
Just before serving, season the crab with salt and gently toss with just
or cut them, then pick the meat from
enough vinaigrette to dress lightly. Use a mandoline to thinly slice the
the shel s. Store picked crabmeat in the
fennel. Combine the shaved fennel with the lettuce in a large bowl, season
refrigerator in a covered container until
with salt and pepper, and gently toss with just enough vinaigrette to
just before serving. You can cook and
lightly coat the greens. Place the lettuce and fennel on a shallow platter or
clean the crab 1 to 2 days ahead.
individual serving plates. Distribute the crab evenly around the platter or
plates. Drizzle any remaining vinaigrette on and around the plate. Serve
immediately.
48 leafy salads
arugula and shaved fennel salad
with tangerines and fried almonds
11⁄2 tablespoons plus 1⁄2 cup
2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon
8 tangerines, such as Pixie or Satsuma,
extra-virgin olive oil
juice; more as needed
peeled and cut into segments (see p. XX
1 cup blanched, slivered almonds
1 medium bulb fennel, trimmed
for more on this)
Kosher salt
6 handfuls arugula, about 8 ounces,
2 to 3 ounces crumbled goat cheese
washed and dried
(optional)
When I was young, my mother used to make a mandarin orange salad with candied
almonds. I loved it. This salad is a modern take on that old family favorite. If your tangerines are especially small, use a few more than the recipe calls for (I clearly recall being disappointed with too few mandarins and almonds).
I’ve added crumbled goat cheese as an option, which adds a little substance to the salad. You can also serve it with fresh ricotta or goat cheese crostini (sprinkle with salt and a few twists of pepper and drizzle with a thin stream of fruity olive oil). Or to play up the tangerine in the salad, serve it with roasted halibut or salmon rubbed with a little olive oil and grated tangerine zest. (With fish, forgo the goat cheese.) If you’re craving meat, petite lamb chops or sliced lamb loin, grilled or pan-fried, is also nice served alongside the salad.
serves 4 to 6
Warm a small sauté pan over medium heat and add 11⁄2 tablespoons of the
oil and the almonds. Fry the almonds, tossing or stirring frequently, until
golden brown, about 3 minutes. Transfer to a paper-towel-lined plate
and season with salt.
To make the vinaigrette, combine the lemon juice and a pinch of salt in a
small bowl. Whisk in the remaining 1⁄2 cup oil. Taste with a leaf of lettuce and adjust the vinaigrette with more lemon juice or salt if necessary. Set aside.
Just before serving, use a mandoline to thinly slice the fennel. Put the
shaved fennel and arugula in a large work bowl, scatter the tangerines and
fried almonds on top, and season with salt. Gently but thoroughly toss
the salad with just enough vinaigrette to lightly coat the greens. Taste and
add more salt or lemon juice if necessary. With a delicate hand, transfer
the salad to a platter or individual serving plates, evenly distributing
the almonds and tangerines that may have fallen to the bottom of the
work bowl. Dot the crumbled goat cheese on top (if desired) and serve
immediately.
leafy salads 49
warm chicory salad with
wild mushrooms and serrano ham
1 pound fresh wild mushrooms, such as
2 teaspoons chopped fresh thyme (optional)
Freshly ground black pepper
chanterelles, porcini, or hedgehogs
21⁄2 tablespoons sherry vinegar; more as
1⁄2 recipe Rustic Croutons (p. XX)
6 tablespoons plus 2⁄3 cup extra-virgin
needed
Chunk of aged Pecorino, for shaving
olive oil
6 large handfuls assorted chicories,
4 to 8 thin slices Serrano ham or
Kosher salt
about 12 ounces, such as tender hearts of
proscuitto
1 large shallot, finely diced
escarole, curly endive, and Treviso, torn
into large pieces, washed, and dried
add substance
For an alternative to the Serrano ham, cook some bacon that you’ve cut into lardons Tuck a few seared sea scallops here
(see p. XX) and make the warm vinaigrette with some of
the bacon fat. Or replace and there or serve sliced gril ed or
the rustic croutons with pancetta-wrapped croutons (see p. XX). I also like this salad sautéed chicken breast on the side.
with a poached egg gently propped on top. (For a really decadent salad, make the pancetta-wrapped croutons and add the poached egg.)
If your wild mushrooms are especially wet and heavy from rain, you may want to increase the mushroom amount to 11⁄2 pounds, especially if you’re a mushroom fan.
If you can’t find chanterelles, hedgehogs, or porcini, substitute with Royal Trumpets (sometimes called French Horn) or cremini.
Before you assemble the salad, be sure to have your ingredients ready, plates out, and guests gathered around the table. Warm salads are delicious but fleeting.
serves 4
Gently clean the wild mushrooms with a damp cloth, a mushroom brush,
or a paring knife to remove any dirt, debris, or dark spots. If they appear
sandy, quickly dip them into a large basin of water and drain. Leave
small, bite-size mushrooms whole; cut the larger mushrooms into about
11⁄2-inch pieces.
Heat a large sauté pan over medium-high heat. Add 2 tablespoons of the
oil, half of the mushrooms, and a generous pinch of salt. Sauté the
mushrooms until cooked and golden brown, stirring occasionally. The
cooking time will vary depending on the type of mushroom and its water
content. (Avoid stirring the mushrooms too frequently or they won’t brown
as well.) Remove the mushrooms from the pan and hold in a warm spot.
Return the pan to the stovetop over medium-high heat, add 2 tablespoons
oil, and repeat the process with the remaining mushrooms.
continued on page 52
leafy salads 51
continued from page 51
Return the pan to the stovetop over medium heat. Add 2 tablespoons
oil, the shallot, thyme (if using), and a pinch of salt, and sauté for about
1 minute (so the shallot is still a little crunchy), scraping the pan to get any tasty mushroom bits clinging to the bottom. Remove the pan from the
heat and add the vinegar and the remaining 2⁄3 cup oil. Taste with a leaf of
lettuce and adjust the vinaigrette with more vinegar or salt if necessary.
Use the vinaigrette immediately, or reheat it briefly over low heat just
before dressing the salad.
Put the chicories and mushrooms in a large work bowl. Season the greens
with salt and pepper. Gently but thoroughly toss the salad with just enough
vinaigrette to lightly coat the greens. Taste and add more salt or a little
more dressing if necessary. Add the croutons and toss once more. With a
delicate hand, transfer the salad to a platter or individual serving plates,
evenly distributing the mushrooms and croutons that may have fallen to
the bottom of the bowl. Drizzle any remaining vinaigrette on and around
the salad. Finish with several shavings of Pecorino. Drape the ham on
the individual plates or arrange on a platter and pass at the table. Serve
immediately.
52 leafy salads
spinach salad with blood oranges,
feta, pine nuts & raisins
4 small- to-medium-size blood oranges
1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice
Freshly ground black pepper
1⁄4 cup raisins
Kosher salt
1⁄4 cup pine nuts, toasted
1 shallot, thinly sliced
5 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
About 2 ounces feta cheese, preferably
1 tablespoon Champagne or white-wine
4 large handfuls baby spinach, about
goat’s milk feta, coarsely crumbled
vinegar; more as needed
51⁄2 ounces, washed well and dried
add substance
Spinach can stand up well to the tangy flavor of blood oranges. Look for crisp, This salad pairs well with grilled
bright-green baby spinach (preferably in bulk, not bagged) and be sure to wash it lamb. Without the feta, it’s also good
carefully—the tiniest bit of grit will spoil your salad. Feel free to play with the greens with gril ed or pan-fried meaty fish,
mixture, if you like. A handful of frisée will perk up the spinach, which tends to flop like swordfish. Drizzle any remaining
on the plate after it’s been dressed, and thinly sliced Treviso or radicchio adds a vinaigrette over the lamb or fish.
pretty fleck of red to the mix. For an herbal note, add a few parsley or mint leaves to the spinach.
serves 4
tip If you can’t find blood oranges, use
Valencia or navel oranges instead. Store
the oranges in the refrigerator; citrus is
Peel the oranges and carefully remove the segments (see p. xx). Put the
best served cold in salads.
segments in a small bowl and refrigerate until shortly before using.
Squeeze 1⁄4 cup juice from the remains of the oranges (the carcasses). Put
the raisins in a small bowl and pour the orange juice on top to plump
them. Set aside.
Put the shallot in a small bowl and cover with ice water to crisp and remove
some of its hot gassy flavor.
To make the vinaigrette, combine the vinegar, lemon juice, and a pinch of
salt in a small bowl. Whisk in the oil. Taste with a leaf of lettuce and adjust the vinaigrette with more vinegar or salt if necessary. Set aside.
Just before serving, drain the shallots and raisins. Put the spinach in
a large work bowl, scatter the shallots and raisins on top, and season
with salt and pepper. Gently toss the salad with just enough vinaigrette
to lightly coat the greens. Taste and add more salt if necessary. With a
delicate hand, transfer the salad to a platter or individual serving plates,
evenly distributing the raisins that may have fallen to the bottom of the
bowl. Scatter the orange segments, pine nuts, and feta on top. Drizzle any
remaining vinaigrette on and around the salad, focusing on the cheese
and fruit. Serve immediately.
leafy salads 53
raw kale with caesar vinaigrette
1 pound young kale, stemmed,
4 anchovy fillets, rinsed well and
1 egg yolk
washed, and dried (see p. XX for
patted dry
1⁄4 cup freshly grated Parmigiano-
how to stem kale)
1⁄2 cup extra-virgin olive oil
Reggiano; more for sprinkling
1 clove garlic
2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon
Freshly ground black pepper
Kosher salt
juice; more as needed
1⁄2 recipe Rustic Croutons (p. XX)
add substance
Raw kale makes a surprisingly good Caesar salad, and it’s more hearty than a
Like traditional Caesar salad, sliced
traditional Caesar made with romaine. Look for tender, young kale at the market—
chicken breast tastes great on the side.
the smaller the leaves, the better. Or if you have a garden and grow kale, cut the tender young leaves from your plants—you won’t be disappointed.
serves 4
Tear the larger leaves of kale into rustic pieces; leave the small leaves
whole. Wash the kale in a large basin of cool water, swishing the water
gently to remove any dirt. Lift the greens from the water and transfer to a
colander to drain. Spin-dry in small batches or layer between clean, lint-
free kitchen towels to dry. Refrigerate until just before serving.
> With a mortar and pestle, pound the garlic to a smooth paste with a pinch
of salt. Add the anchovies and pound again until smooth. Transfer the
pounded mixture to a small bowl. (Or, if the mortar is large enough,
leave the mixture in the mortar.) Add the oil and lemon juice and whisk
to combine. Then add the egg yolk, Parmesan, and several twists of black
pepper and whisk to emulsify. Taste with a leaf of kale and adjust the
vinaigrette with more lemon juice or salt if necessary. (If you like, add a
little more garlic or anchovy.) Refrigerate until just before serving.
Put the kale in a large work bowl and season with salt and pepper. Gently
but thoroughly toss the salad with just enough vinaigrette to lightly coat the greens. Taste and add more salt or dressing if necessary. Add the croutons
and toss once more. With a delicate hand, transfer the salad to a platter
or individual serving plates, evenly distributing the croutons that may
have fallen to the bottom of the bowl. Sprinkle with a generous amount of
Parmesan. Serve immediately.
variation
• To make a traditional Caesar, use 3 to 4 hearts of romaine (depending on the size) in place of the kale and have an extra lemon on hand. (Romaine is much more watery than kale and tends to want more acid.) Taste the vinaigrette with a romaine leaf and correct the dressing as necessary.
54 leafy salads
escarole with apple, celery,
roquefort & pecans
4 large handfuls tender hearts of
Kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper
escarole, about 7 ounces
1⁄3 cup extra-virgin olive oil; more as
3⁄4 cup pecans, toasted (see p. XX)
2 large handfuls frisée, about 3 ounces
needed
About 2 ounces Roquefort, crumbled
1 shallot, finely diced
2 medium-size crisp apples, such as Pink
1 tablespoon Champagne or white-wine
Lady, Sierra Beauty, or Granny Smith,
vinegar; more as needed
cored and thinly sliced (see p. XX)
2 tablespoons freshly squeezed
2 stalks celery, cut at a sharp angle into
lemon juice
thin slices
add substance
I like the cool, crisp combination of apples and celery with chicories in this fall salad.
Serve with sliced chicken breast on
You can use toasted walnuts or hazelnuts in lieu of the pecans and pear in place the side.
of the apple. For an herby element, add a handful of freshly picked parsley. For a slightly lighter salad, use hearts of romaine in place of the chicory.