the asparagus will continue to cook a little after it comes out of the water.) Drain and quickly spread the spears on a baking sheet to cool. Cut the
asparagus at an angle into 2-inch-wide segments and set aside.
Heat a sauté pan over medium heat and add 1 tablespoon olive oil and the
pancetta. Cook until the fat renders and the pancetta is crisp and golden
brown, about 5 minutes. Transfer to a paper-towel-lined plate to drain.
To make the vinaigrette, combine the garlic, mustard, red-wine vinegar,
lemon juice, and a pinch of salt in a small bowl. Let sit for 5 to 10
minutes. Whisk in the egg yolk, and then slowly whisk in the 1⁄2 cup olive
oil until the vinaigrette is emulsified. Taste with a piece of asparagus and
add more salt or vinegar if necessary. Set aside.
Just before serving, put the greens and asparagus in a large work bowl
and season with salt and a few twists of black pepper. Gently toss with just
enough vinaigrette to lightly coat the asparagus and greens. Taste and
add more salt or vinaigrette if necessary. Add the croutons and toss once
more. With a delicate hand, transfer the salad to a platter or individual
plates, evenly distributing the asparagus and croutons. Scatter the pancetta
on top. Press the egg (1 egg per plate if serving individual portions)
through a course-mesh sieve (an old-fashioned potato masher will also
work) and let it fall gracefully on the salad. Sprinkle salt and a few more
twists of pepper on the egg, and drizzle any remaining vinaigrette on and
around the salad. Serve immediately.
86 vegetable & fruit salads
corn, cherry tomato &
avocado salad with shrimp
2 large ears fresh corn, shucked and
1 teaspoon piment d’espelette or
1⁄2 cup thinly sliced scallions (white and
kernels cut off the cob, to yield about
cayenne; more as needed
pale green parts only)
2 cups
31⁄2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lime
11⁄2 pounds fresh shrimp, peeled, deveined,
1 clove garlic, pounded to a smooth
juice; more as needed
and halved lengthwise
paste with a pinch of salt
1⁄2 cup plus 2 tablespoons mild extra-
2 large firm but ripe avocados, cut into
1 teaspoon cumin seed, toasted
virgin olive oil; more as needed
1⁄4-inch-thick slices (see p. XX)
and ground
kosher salt
1⁄2 cup roughly chopped fresh cilantro,
1 teaspoon paprika
1 pint cherry tomatoes, such as sweet
plus a few leafy sprigs for garnish
100s or sun golds, halved
I grew up eating fresh corn from the field behind our house. My dad, a dairyman, grew corn for the cows and a small amount of what we called “people corn.” Fresh corn, cooked just after it’s picked, is truly delicious. Short of a field nearby, look for plump, green ears of corn that has been recently cut—the stems should look almost dewy and the silk should be silky and slightly sticky. Peel back the husk and inspect the kernels—they should be shiny and taut. Overlook the occasional worm, especially if the corn is fresh and sweet. I call to cook the corn just briefly in unsalted boiling water (salt toughens the kernels), but it’s often unnecessary to cook perfectly fresh corn. Taste it and see what you think.
Piment d’Espelette is a dried red chile from the village of Espelette in Spain’s Basque region. Its flavor is more fruity and less hot than cayenne. You can use Aleppo pepper in place of the Piment d’Espelette—it looks beautiful sprinkled over the finished salad as well. Keep in mind that Aleppo pepper is mild, so if you want a little heat, add a pinch of cayenne to the vinaigrette and sautéed shrimp.
serves 4
Bring a small pot of water to a boil. Add the corn kernels and cook for
20 to 30 seconds. (The fresher the corn, the less you need to cook it.)
Drain and spread on a baking sheet to cool.
To make the vinaigrette, combine the garlic, cumin, paprika, Piment
d’Espelette, and 21⁄2 tablespoons of the lime juice in a small bowl. Let sit
for 5 to 10 minutes. Whisk in 1⁄2 cup of the olive oil. Taste and add a little more salt, lime juice, and/or Piment d’Espelette if necessary.
continued on page xx
vegetable & fruit salads 87
continued from page xx
Combine the corn, cherry tomatoes, and scallions in a medium bowl and
tip If you can’t bear to be in the
season with salt. Gently toss with just enough vinaigrette to lightly coat the kitchen on a warm summer night, brush
vegetables. Taste and add more salt or lime juice if necessary. Set aside.
the shrimp lightly with olive oil and gril
it over a medium-hot fire.
Warm a large sauté pan over high heat. Add the remaining 2 tablespoons
olive oil and put the shrimp in the pan in an even layer. Season with salt
and sauté hot and fast, stirring or tossing occasionally, just until the shrimp turns pink and is lightly caramelized, about 3 minutes. Transfer to a bowl,
season with a pinch of piment d’Espelette and about a tablespoon of lime
juice, and toss to combine. Taste and add more salt or lime juice if needed.
Just before serving, arrange the sliced avocado on 4 serving plates and
season with salt. Toss the corn mixture and taste once more for salt and
lime juice. Add the cilantro and toss again. Spoon the corn salad on and
around the avocado, and tuck the shrimp here and there. Drizzle any
remaining vinaigrette on and around the salad, focusing on the avocado.
Garnish with cilantro sprigs and serve immediately.
vegetable & fruit salads 89
new potato salad with
shallots and crème fraîche
1 shallot, finely diced
2 pounds waxy potatoes, such as yellow
2 tablespoons roughly chopped
2 tablespoons champagne or white-wine
finn, yukon gold, german Butterball, or
fresh chives
vinegar; more as needed
Bintje, peeled
freshly ground black pepper
1
kosher salt
⁄4 cup crème fraîche; more as needed
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons roughly chopped fresh
flat-leaf parsley
For most, potato salad alone is not a meal in and of itself, but it makes a wonderful accompaniment to a variety of other vegetables and light salads. Collectively, these make a fresh summertime spread that is hearty enough for even the most robust
appetite. Serve this potato salad with lightly pickled roasted beets (see p. XX), blanched green beans or roasted red peppers tossed in olive oil, or not-so-hard-cooked eggs (see p. XX). Scatter a few leaves of arugula or garden cress on the plate.
Drape cured meats on the side or fold bacon lardons into the salad.
The key to this simple salad is to gently cook the potatoes in well-salted water, so that they slowly absorb the salt as they cook (this is the secret to good mashed potatoes, too), and then toss them with the vinaigrette while they’re warm, so they absorb the acid. Be sure to use waxy potatoes, such as Yellow Finn, Yukon Gold, German Butterball, or Bintje potatoes. Starchy potatoes, such as russets, will turn to mush.
serves 4
Combine the shallot, vinegar, and a pinch of salt in a small bowl. Let sit
for 5 to 10 minutes, and then whisk in the oil. Set aside.
Cut the potatoes in half, quarters, or 1-inch chunks, depending on the<
br />
size of the potato and your preference. Put the potatoes in a medium
(3- to 4-quart) pot and add cold water to cover. Add a generous amount
of salt to the water—it should taste almost like seawater. Bring to a simmer,
uncovered, then reduce the heat to maintain a gentle simmer and cook,
stirring once or twice, until the potatoes are tender, 10 to 15 minutes.
Check for doneness from time to time by piercing with a small, sharp
knife. When the potatoes are close to done, scoop one out with a slotted
spoon and place it on a cutting board. Let cool briefly and then taste.
It should be perfectly tender; if not, continue cooking for a couple of
minutes and taste again. Drain well.
90 vegetable & fruit salads
Transfer the potatoes to a wide bowl. Drizzle the vinaigrette on top.
Using a rubber spatula, gently fold the ingredients together. Let sit at
room temperature until lukewarm. Add the crème fraîche, parsley, and
chives, and season with a few twists of black pepper. Gently fold again and
taste. Season with more salt, vinegar, and/or crème fraiche as necessary.
Serve immediately or at room temperature.
variations
• For a simple olive oil potato salad, replace the crème fraîche with 3 to 4 tablespoons of extra-virgin olive oil.
• Substitute 1 tablespoon roughly chopped fresh chervil and/or tarragon for 1
tablespoon of the chives.
• Stir in 1 tablespoon rinsed, soaked, drained, and chopped capers and/or olives.
• Stir in 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard.
vegetable & fruit salads 91
tomato, fennel & squid salad
11⁄2 pounds whole, small squid (about
1 medium bulb fennel, trimmed (reserve
freshly ground black pepper
3 inches long), or 11⁄4 pounds cleaned,
the fennel fronds and chop them)
1⁄2 pint cherry tomatoes, such as
small squid, cut into rings
2 tablespoons roughly chopped fresh
sweet 100s or sun golds, halved
1 shallot, thinly sliced
oregano
1 tablespoon red-wine vinegar; more
1 large clove garlic
1⁄2 cup plus 2 tablespoons extra-virgin
as needed
kosher salt
olive oil
1 large handful arugula, preferably wild
crushed red pepper flakes
(about 11⁄
1⁄
4 ounces), washed and dried
4 cup roughly chopped fresh flat-leaf
parsley
3 medium-size, ripe, fragrant tomatoes,
thinly sliced
basic skills
We’re fortunate to have small, tender squid in northern California. It’s delicious and to clean squid, cut the head from the
perfectly suited for salads. Look for the smallest squid you can find—it’s the most body. Cut away the tentacles (just below
tender. In general, it’s best to buy squid whole and clean it yourself since cleaned the eyes) and discard the head. Pinch
squid has often been previously frozen. The task of cleaning squid is a little messy, but the tentacles to remove and discard the
the flavor is worth it (see the sidebar at left). I call to sauté the squid hot and fast, but small round beak in the center. Lay the
you can also grill it (see the variation on the facing page).
body on a cutting board. Starting at the
Serve this salad with grilled or toasted bread lightly rubbed with garlic and finished tip of the body, use the back of a knife
with a thin drizzle of fruity olive oil.
to gently push the insides of the squid
out the opposite end. Be sure to remove
serves 4
the transparent quill as wel .
Clean the squid (see the sidebar at left), then cut the bodies crosswise at a
slight angle into rings about 1⁄2 inch wide; cover and refrigerate the squid.
Put the shallot in a small bowl and cover with ice water to crisp and remove
some of its hot, gassy flavor.
In a medium to large mortar, pound the garlic to a smooth paste with a
pinch of salt. Add the parsley, 2 tablespoons of the chopped fennel fronds,
and the oregano a little at a time, pounding with each addition. Stir in
1⁄2 cup of the oil. (If you don’t have a mortar and pestle, mash the garlic to a smooth paste, finely chop the herbs, and combine in a small bowl with
the oil.) Set aside.
Shortly before you are ready to serve, heat a large, heavy skillet over high
heat. When the pan is very hot, add the remaining 2 tablespoons oil and
the squid. Season the squid with salt and a generous pinch of red pepper
flakes. Be careful, as squid tends to pop while it cooks. Sauté the squid
until the bodies are golden and the tentacles are nicely caramelized, about
4 minutes, tossing or stirring once or twice during the process (if you stir
the squid too much it won’t brown as nicely). Transfer the squid to a large
work bowl.
92 vegetable & fruit salads
Arrange the tomato slices on a platter or individual serving plates and season with salt and pepper. Drain the shallot well. Using a mandoline or
a sharp knife, thinly slice the fennel bulb. Add the shallot, fennel, and
cherry tomatoes to the bowl of squid, and season with salt. Stir the vinegar
into the herb mixture and drizzle about a third of the vinaigrette on the
squid mixture. Gently toss to combine. Taste and add more salt or vinegar
if necessary. Neatly mound the salad on the tomatoes and drizzle the
remaining herb vinaigrette on and around the salad. Scatter the arugula
on the platter or plates. Serve immediately.
variation
• To grill the squid, prepare a hot charcoal fire or heat a gas grill. Position the grate as close to the coals as possible. Thread the squid bodies (whole) and tentacles separately on skewers. Brush the squid with olive oil and season with salt and crushed red pepper flakes. Place the squid on the grate, crosswise, and grill until it’s nicely marked on both sides, 3 or 4 minutes in all. Remove the squid from the skewers and cut crosswise at a slight angle into rings about 1⁄2 inch wide. Finish the recipe as described.
vegetable & fruit salads 93
gypsy pepper and green bean
salad with fried almonds
kosher salt
1⁄2 cup plus 11⁄2 tablespoons extra-virgin
1⁄4 cup roughly chopped fresh flat-leaf
olive oil
parsley
3⁄4 pound thin green beans (haricots verts),
stem ends trimmed
1 small red onion, thinly sliced
1⁄4 cup roughly chopped fresh marjoram
1 clove garlic, pounded to a smooth
1 cup blanched slivered almonds
freshly ground black pepper
paste with a pinch of salt
3⁄4 pound sweet red (or orange) gypsy
4 large handfuls frisée (pale center leaves),
21⁄2 tablespoons sherry or red-wine
peppers, halved, cored, seeded, and
about 4 ounces total, washed and dried
vinegar, or a combination; more as needed
thinly sliced
add substance
Look for fully ripe red or orange Gypsy peppers; substitute with firm red bell peppers serve with not-so-hard-cooked eggs
if you can’t find them. Add a pinch of cayenne or Piment d’Espelette to the vinaigrette (see p. XX), a few thin slices of Serrano
for a bit of spice.
ham, or q
uickly sautéed shrimp finished
You can use toasted hazelnuts in place of the almonds and fresh oregano in place with a squeeze of lemon and pinch of
of the marjoram, if desired.
sweet or hot red chile powder (if you’re
serves 4 to 6
not using chile in the vinaigrette).
Bring a large pot of water to a boil and season with a generous amount of
salt—it should taste almost like seawater. Have a baking sheet lined with
parchment ready. Add the beans to the boiling water and cook until crisp-
tender, about 2 minutes. Drain the beans, spread them on the baking
sheet, and set aside to cool.
To make the vinaigrette, combine the garlic, vinegar, and a pinch of salt in
a small bowl. Let sit for 5 to 10 minutes. Whisk in 1⁄2 cup of the olive oil.
Taste with a green bean and adjust the vinaigrette with more vinegar or salt
if necessary. Set aside.
Put the red onion in a small bowl and cover with ice water to crisp and
remove some of its hot, gassy flavor. Set aside.
Warm a small sauté pan over medium heat and add the remaining 11⁄2 table-
spoons olive oil and the slivered almonds. Fry the almonds, tossing or
stirring frequently, until golden brown, about 3 minutes. Transfer to a
paper-towel-lined plate and season with salt.
Drain the onion well. Put the green beans, peppers, onion, and herbs in a
large work bowl and season with salt and a few twists of pepper. Gently but
thoroughly toss the salad with just enough vinaigrette to lightly coat the
vegetables. Taste and add more salt or vinegar if necessary. Add the frisée
and almonds to the bowl, season lightly with salt, and lightly toss again, adding just enough vinaigrette to lightly coat. Taste once more for salt and acid.
With a delicate hand, transfer the salad to a platter or individual serving
plates, evenly distributing the vegetables and almonds. Serve immediately.
94 vegetable & fruit salads
summer chanterelle,
corn & green bean salad
3 large ears fresh corn, shucked and
1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon
freshly ground black pepper
kernels cut off the cob, to yield about
juice; more as needed
1⁄2 pound fresh chanterelle mushrooms,
3 cups
1 tablespoon white-wine vinegar;
or other wild mushrooms
kosher salt
Salad for Dinner Page 12