Salad for Dinner

by Tasha DeSerio

processed to remove its natural coating of bitter-tasting saponins, but it’s a good idea to give it a quick rinse before cooking.

  Couscous is not a grain but a tiny pellet made from semolina flour and water.

  Israeli couscous is a tiny pasta made from semolina and water as well, but it’s rolled into larger pellets and toasted. It has a chewier texture than regular couscous.

  Fregola, a tiny, toasted pasta from Sardinia, is similar to Israeli couscous.

  Buy grains at busy markets to ensure that they are fresh. Be sure to rinse

  them under cool running water to remove any dirt or debris before cooking

  (especially quinoa.) When making grain salads, consider combining grains

  to vary the taste and texture. I like combining black rice and farro as well as legumes and grains or.

  Using bread, grains, and pasta in salads

  For the best flavor and texture, serve grain, bread, and pasta salads at room

  temperature. However, grains and pasta can be cooked in advance and stored in

  the refrigerator for a few days, making it a snap to pull together dinner in no time. (It’s a must to eat bread salads shortly after they’re prepared.) Whenever possible, let cold grains and pasta come to room temperature before finishing

  the salad.

  rice salad with asparagus,

  favas & peas

  Kosher salt

  2 shallots, finely diced

  1⁄4 cup chopped chives

  2 cups arborio, carnaroli, or basmati rice

  2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon

  1⁄4 cup roughly chopped chervil

  2 cups shelled English peas

  juice; more as needed

  1⁄4 cup roughly chopped mint

  1 pound fresh green asparagus, tough

  2 tablespoons white-wine vinegar

  Freshly ground black pepper

  ends snapped off (see p. XX), and cut at

  1⁄2 cup extra-virgin olive oil; more

  an angle into 1⁄4-inch segments

  as needed

  11⁄2 cups shelled fava beans (about

  1⁄4 cup roughly chopped fresh flat-leaf

  11⁄2 pounds fava beans in the pod)

  parsley

  add SubStance

  This salad is a celebration of spring. Look for freshly cut asparagus, and avoid Serve with shrimp or salmon, chicken

  bunches that are starting to flower at the tips (a sign that the asparagus is past its or spring lamb, or not-so-hard-cooked

  prime.) You can vary the vegetables if you don’t have one of them on hand. Snap eggs sprinkled with salt and pepper.

  peas, cut at an angle and blanched until crisp-tender, are good here.

  With rice salads, it’s best to boil the rice in lots of boiling water, like pasta. This way, the grains stay separate and are less apt to turn into a pile of mush. Cook the rice until just al dente and spread it out to cool. Be sure to serve rice salads at room temperature; cold rice is hard and unpleasant.

  ServeS 6 to 8

  Bring a large pot of water to a boil and season with salt—it should taste

  almost like seawater. Add the rice and boil until the grains are just

  cooked—they should be slightly al dente—about 15 minutes. Drain well and

  spread the rice on a baking sheet to cool. Set aside at room temperature.

  Bring a separate large pot of water to a boil to cook the peas, asparagus,

  and fava beans. Have a large bowl of ice water ready, and start with the

  peas. To make this task easier, put the peas in a fine-mesh strainer basket,

  and submerge the peas and the basket in the water until the peas are just

  tender, about 2 minutes. Lift the basket out of the water and immediately

  submerge the peas (still in the strainer basket) in the ice bath until chilled, about 1 minute. Lift the basket out of the ice water and drain the peas

  well. Transfer the peas to a small bowl, and set aside at room temperature

  temporarily, or refrigerate and return to room temperature before using.

  Repeat the process with the asparagus, cook the asparagus in the strainer

  basket until just tender, about 2 minutes, then immediately submerge the

  asparagus in the ice bath until chilled, about 1 minute. Lift the basket out

  continued on page xx

  124 grain, bread & pasta salads

  KS_TP_FvaBnMnt_49.tif

  continued from page xx

  KS_TP_Prcs_Fava1_90.tif

  of the ice, drain well, and transfer the asparagus to a small bowl. Set aside

  at room temperature, or refrigerate and return to room temperature

  before using.

  If necessary, add more ice to the ice bath. Put the fava beans in the strainer basket, and submerge in the boiling water until the beans slip easily out of

  their skins and are tender, about 2 minutes. (To test the favas, carefully

  remove a bean from the basket and pierce the outer layer with your thumb,

  KS_TP_Prcs_Fava2_93.tif

  gently squeezing the bean from its skin.) Immediately submerge the beans

  in the ice water until thoroughly chilled. Pop the beans out of their skins,

  and set aside temporarily at room temperature, or refrigerate and return

  to room temperature before using.

  To make the vinaigrette, combine the shallot, lemon juice, vinegar, and a

  pinch of salt in a small bowl. Let sit for 5 to 10 minutes. Whisk in the oil.

  Taste and add more salt if necessary.

  Shortly before serving, put the rice in a large work bowl, and toss it lightly baSic SkillS

  with your fingers to fluff the grains. Add the vegetables and herbs, and

  To blanch fava beans, bring a pot of

  season with salt and a few twists of black pepper. Drizzle the vinaigrette

  water to a boil and have a large bowl

  on top and toss lightly to combine. Taste and add more salt, lemon juice,

  of ice water ready. To easily transfer the

  and/or olive oil if necessary. Transfer to a shallow platter or individual

  beans from the pot to the ice bath, put

  serving plates. Serve at room temperature.

  the shucked fava beans in a fine-mesh

  strainer basket, and submerge them

  (and the basket) in the water until the

  beans slip easily out of their skins and

  are tender, about 1 minute. To test the

  favas, remove a bean from the basket,

  and slip it out of its skin by piercing the

  outer layer with your thumb and gently

  squeezing the bean. Once tender, lift the

  basket out of the water and immediately

  submerge the beans, basket and al , in

  the ice bath. Chill the beans well and

  then pop them out of their skins. Cover

  and refrigerate the beans until shortly

  before using.

  You can shuck fava beans (stage one,

  I call it) a day or two in advance, and

  then blanch and pop them out of the

  their skins (stage two) a day in advance.

  126 grain, bread & pasta salads

  toasted pita and arugula salad

  with cucumber, black olives & feta

  4 pita breads (6 to 7 inches round)

  4 handfuls arugula, about 4 ounces,

  1⁄2 cup roughly chopped fresh flat-leaf

  washed and dried

  parsley

  1⁄2 cup plus 3 tablespoons extra-virgin

  olive oil

  1 medium cucumber, peeled if necessary,

  1⁄4 cup roughly chopped fresh mint

  Kosher salt

  and cut into 1⁄4-inch dice or jewels (to yield

  Freshly ground black pepper

  about 11⁄2 cups)

  1 large clove
garlic, pounded to a smooth

  2 ounces feta cheese, crumbled

  1

  paste with a pinch of salt

  ⁄2 cup sliced scallions (cut about 1⁄4 inch

  thick), green and white parts only

  Aleppo pepper, for sprinkling (optional)

  2 1⁄2 tablespoons red-wine vinegar;

  1

  more as needed

  ⁄2 cup black olives, such as Niçoise, pitted

  and very coarsely chopped

  I call for Aleppo pepper on top on this salad, but you can also add a pinch of cayenne to the vinaigrette to add a little more heat. A sprinkle of sumac will add tangy flavor.

  Serve the salad immediately to preserve the crunch factor. It’s especially good with grilled chicken or lamb.

  ServeS 4

  Heat the oven to 350°F.

  Split the pita breads in half horizontally (the bread should naturally

  separate into 2 thin disks), and then tear into rustic 2- to 3-inch pieces.

  Divide the pita evenly among 2 baking sheets, and drizzle about 11⁄2

  tablespoons oil on each pan. Lightly toss the pita to coat well, spread out

  to an even layer, and sprinkle with salt. Toast the bread in the oven until

  crisp and golden, about 12 minutes. Set aside to cool.

  To make the vinaigrette, combine the garlic, vinegar, and a pinch of salt

  in a small bowl. Let sit for 5 to 10 minutes. Whisk in the remaining 1⁄2 cup

  oil. Taste with a leaf of lettuce and adjust the vinaigrette with more vinegar or salt if necessary.

  Just before you are ready to serve, put the arugula, cucumber, scallions,

  olives, parsley, and mint in a large work bowl, and season with salt and a

  few twists of pepper. Add the pita. Gently but thoroughly toss with just

  enough vinaigrette to lightly coat the salad. Taste and add more salt or

  vinaigrette if necessary. With a delicate hand, transfer the salad to a platter or individual serving plates. Sprinkle the cheese on top and drizzle any

  remaining vinaigrette on and around the salad, focusing on the bread and

  cheese. Sprinkle with Aleppo pepper and serve immediately.

  grain, bread & pasta salads 127

  farro and asparagus salad

  with spring onion and mint

  2 cups farro

  1⁄2 cup extra-virgin olive oil; more for

  1⁄4 cup roughly chopped fresh mint

  Kosher salt

  drizzling

  Large handful of arugula, about

  1 pound fresh green asparagus

  1 medium-size spring onion, about 6

  11⁄2 ounces, washed and dried, for garnish

  ounces, white and pale green parts only,

  (optional)

  1 large clove garlic, pounded to smooth

  thinly sliced (to yield about 1 cup)

  paste with a pinch of salt

  1⁄2 cup roughly chopped fresh flat-leaf

  31⁄2 tablespoons red-wine vinegar;

  parsley

  more as needed

  add SubStance

  Farro is the new go-to grain in our house. All of us enjoy it and, like pasta, it’s easy Drape the salad with prosciutto or

  to prepare and makes a satisfying meal. You can fold crumbled feta into this salad or serve with salmon, halibut, or chicken.

  dot the top with goat cheese or fresh ricotta. A dollop of yogurt sauce (see p. XX) on the side is also delicious.

  ServeS 4 to 6

  Bring a medium pot of water to a boil and line 2 baking sheets with

  parchment. Season with a generous amount of salt—it should taste almost

  like seawater. Add the farro, reduce the heat to maintain a low boil, and

  cook until tender, 20 to 25 minutes. Drain well and spread out on a one

  of the lined baking sheets to cool at room temperature.

  While the farro is cooking, bring a large pot of water to a boil and season

  with a generous amount of salt—it should taste almost like seawater. Grasp

  an asparagus spear with both hands and snap it in two; it will naturally

  separate at the point where the stalk becomes tender. Trim the remaining

  spears to the same length. Discard the tough bottom ends of the spears.

  If necessary, lightly peel about two-thirds of the spear. (If the asparagus is very fresh and tender, this step is often unnecessary.)

  Drop the asparagus into the boiling water and cook until crisp-tender,

  3 to 5 minutes, depending on the size of the spears. (Keep in mind that

  it will “carry”—continue to cook a little—after it comes out of the water.)

  Drain and quickly spread the spears out on the remaining lined baking

  sheet to cool at room temperature. (If you’re concerned that the asparagus

  is overcooked, put it in the refrigerator to cool.) Cut the asparagus at an

  angle into 1⁄2-inch segments and set aside.

  128 grain, bread & pasta salads

  To make the vinaigrette, combine the garlic and vinegar in a small bowl.

  More about

  Let sit for 5 to 10 minutes. Whisk in the oil. Taste and add more salt or

  SprinG onionS

  vinegar if necessary.

  Spring onions are mild, young onions

  that have been pul ed before they

  Put the farro, asparagus, onion, and herbs in a large work bowl. Season

  mature into conventional onions. (Often,

  with salt, drizzle the vinaigrette on top, and gently fold to combine. Taste

  they are the onions that the farmers pul

  and add more salt or vinegar if necessary. Spoon the salad onto a platter or

  early to thin the rows.) Their delicate

  individual serving plates. Scatter the arugula around the plate. Finish with

  flavor is wel -suited for raw salads.

  a thin drizzle of olive oil and serve.

  Use them in the spring in place of

  regular onions or green onions. Look

  for bunches that have perky, bright

  green onion tops (leaves) and a firm,

  unblemished bulb. The bulbs, either red

  or white and round or tapered, differ

  very little in flavor; go with the onions

  that look the freshest.

  Like green onions, you can use both

  the white (or red) bulb and the pale

  green portion of the tops. Trim and

  discard the roots and dark green portion

  of the tops, and an outer layer of the

  bulb if necessary. Then quickly rinse

  to remove any sand or dirt. Cut spring

  onions in the same manner as a green

  or mature onions: Crosswise into round

  or oval slices, or in half lengthwise

  (if you encounter a firm sprout in the

  center, remove it) and then crosswise

  into half-moon slices or dice. Like mature

  onions, spring onions benefit from being

  soaked briefly in ice water to improve

  their flavor and texture when used raw.

  grain, bread & pasta salads 129

  rice salad with cucumber,

  feta & herbs

  Kosher salt

  1⁄4 cup plus 2 tablespoons extra-virgin

  1⁄2 cup roughly chopped fresh flat-leaf

  2

  olive oil; more as needed

  parsley

  1⁄2 cups arborio, carnaroli, or

  basmati rice

  1⁄2 English cucumber, cut into 1⁄4-inch dice

  2 tablespoons roughly chopped fresh mint

  1 shallot, fined diced

  or jewels (to yield 1 heaping cup)

  2 tablespoons roughly chopped fresh dill

  1

  2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon />
  ⁄4 cup sliced scallions (cut about 1⁄4 inch

  Freshly ground black pepper

  juice; more as needed

  thick), white and pale green parts only

  2 ounces good-quality feta cheese,

  1

  1 tablespoon white-wine vinegar

  ⁄2 cup green olives, such as Picholine

  crumbled

  or Lucques, rinsed well, pitted, and

  coarsely chopped

  add SubStance

  Ripe tomatoes, seasoned with salt and a drizzle of olive oil, are delicious served on Drape slices of prosciutto or Serrano

  the side of this salad. Roasted red peppers go nicely as well.

  ham on the plate, and/or serve with a

  To keep the rice grains separate, it’s best to boil the rice in lots of boiling water. Be few not-so-hard-cooked eggs. It’s also

  sure to cook the rice until just al dente and spread it out to cool.

  good with almost any gril ed meat.

  ServeS 6

  Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Add a generous amount of salt—it

  should taste almost like seawater—and add the rice. Cook until the grains

  are slightly al dente, about 15 minutes. Drain well, and spread the rice on

  a parchment-lined baking sheet to cool. Set aside at room temperature.

  To make the vinaigrette, combine the shallot, lemon juice, vinegar, and a

  pinch of salt in a small bowl. Let sit for 5 to 10 minutes. Whisk in the oil.

  Taste and add more salt if necessary.

  Shortly before serving, put the rice in a large work bowl, and toss lightly

  with your fingers to fluff the grains. Add the cucumber, scallions, olives,

  and herbs, and season with salt and a few twists of black pepper. Drizzle

  the vinaigrette on top and toss lightly to combine. Add the feta and toss

  once more. Taste and add more salt, lemon juice, and/or oil if necessary.

  Transfer to a shallow platter or individual plates and serve at room

  temperature.

  130 grain, bread & pasta salads

  rice and lentils with

  cherry tomatoes and yogurt sauce

  1⁄2 cup green lentils, picked over

  11⁄2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon

  1⁄2 cup scallions (white and pale green

  1 bay leaf

  juice; more as needed

  parts only), thinly sliced on a sharp angle

  3

  1

  Kosher salt

  ⁄4 cup plain yogurt

  ⁄4 cup roughly chopped fresh flat-leaf

  parsley

  1 cup basmati rice

  1 small clove garlic (or 1⁄2 medium clove),

  pounded to a smooth paste with a pinch