No Way Down
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message, July 31, 2008, 1, 48
partner, Mine, 74–75, 115, 215, 229n (see also Dumas, Mine)
phone calls from summit, 74–75, 234n
porters for, 27–28
previous K2 attempts, 48, 115
on summit, 73–75
use of oxygen, 73–74, 114
visit to Gilkey Memorial, 96, 116
De Filippi, Filippo, 1, 7
dehydration, 43, 57–58, 174
of Van Rooijen, 144, 195
Desio, Ardito, 7–9, 10, 231n
Diemberger, Kurt, 229n, 231n
Dijmarescu, George, xvii, 202, 207–8
Disaster on K2 (documentary), 231n
Dogramadzieva, Alisa, 229n, 230n
Dorje, Chhiring, xvi, 24, 42, 58, 71, 209, 229n, 230n, 232n, 233n, 234n, 235n, 236n
Confortola helped by, 208
descent tied to Little Pasang, 101–4, 223
K2 descent, August 1–2, 79, 97–105, 106, 179, 189, 235n
no oxygen used by, 72, 163
wife, Dawa Futi, and daughters, 103
Dumas, Mine, 74–75, 115, 215, 229n, 234n, 235n
Durrance, Jack, 36, 39
Egocheago, George, xvii
Elberus, Mount, 47
Elkins, Katherine, 6
Elkins, Stephen B., 6
Erdeljan, Milivoj, xv, 12, 22, 33, 229n, 232n
Everest, Mount
Confortola on, 42
crowds on, xx, 47–48
d’Aubarède climbs, 74
first Norwegian expedition, 69
height, xx
Jumik Bhote climbs, 127
McDonnell climbs, 50–51
Park Kyeong-hyo climbs, 126
Rob Hall’s death on, 177
scaling of (1953), 7
Skog climbs, 47–48
Van Rooijen climbs, 49
explorersweb, 222, 231n
Falvey, Pat, 213, 229n, 234n, 237n
Farris, Michael, xvi, 174–75, 189, 235n, 237n
“Few False Moves, A” (Kodas), 230n
Fioravanti, Donatella, 229n, 234n
Fiordi, Miro, 77
Fiumi, Elettra, 229n
Fram Expeditions, 47, 193
French Independent K2 Expedition (2008), xvii
French “TGW” K2 Expedition (2008), xvii
frostbite, 9, 105, 133, 187, 196, 201, 202, 204, 207, 208–10
Gasherbrum I and II, 224
Giezendanner, Yan, 115, 229n, 233n
Gilkey, Art, 93–96
Gilkey Memorial, xiii, 68, 93–96, 116, 237n
plates hung for Bae, Mandic, McDonnell, 206–7
Giorni di Ghiaccio (Confortola), 233n
Godwin-Austen, Henry Haversham, 4
Godwin-Austen glacier, xiii, 6, 13, 38, 43, 95, 137, 200
Base Camp, altitude of, 173
Goh Ee Kiat, Robert, xvii
Go Mi-sun, xvi, 44, 119, 205, 224, 229n, 233n
death on Nanga Parbat (2009), 205
earlier fall in Himalayas, 119
Jumik Bhote and, 127
K2 descent, August 1–2, 100, 108–9, 119–21, 125
missing climbers and, 170
rescue, 120, 235n
on summit, 71, 234n
Goro II, 210
Graziani, Yannick, xvii, 229n
Great Trango Tower, 46, 83–84
Norwegian Pillar, 84
groupthink, 46, 233n
Guggemos, Peter, xvii
Gyalje, Pemba, xv, 15, 24, 42, 51, 58, 66, 72, 74, 230n, 236n, 237n
avalanche on August 2 and, 168
Cas van de Gevel missing and, 188, 192
clothing worn on August 1, 159, 194
d’Aubarède and, 73–74, 75
death of McDonnell and, 199–200
departure from K2, 210
disputed versions of McDonnell’s death and, 222
Gerard McDonnell and, 137, 162, 167
K2 descent, August 1–2, 76, 100, 101–4, 159
Marco Confortola rescue and, 164–70, 176, 223
missing friends and, 159–60, 163
no oxygen used by, 72
photographs by, 165, 169, 230n
reports deaths of Koreans and Sherpas, 176
return to Base Camp, August 3, 198–202
return to Camp Four, 159
Van Rooijen’s rescue and, 148–49, 182, 186–89, 191–92, 194–97, 237n
Haegens, Court, xv
Hall, Rob, 177
HAPs (high-altitude porters), xxi, 7, 16, 22, 27
Confortola’s anger with, 209
K2 ascent, August 1, 63, 67
Marco Confortola and, 197–98
marketing rivalry with Sherpas, 42
Zerain and, 63
Hargreaves, Alison, 96
Hatiya, Nepal (Sherpa village), 106, 127
high-altitude. See altitude
Horvath, Timothy, xvi
House, Bill, 16
Houston, Charles, 93–95, 235n
Houston expedition (1953), 93–96, 234n
Hunza porters, 7, 9, 14, 95
Hussein, Mohammed, xvi, 16, 21, 25, 26, 29, 32
Hwang Dong-jin, xvi, 161
death, 170
K2 descent, August 1–2, 126, 160
ice screws, 57, 62, 88
independent climbers K2 2008, xvii
Isserman, Maurice, 229n
Italian Abruzzi Expedition (1909), 1, 5–7
Italian Broad Peak & Nanga Parbat Expedition (2008), xviii
Italian K2 Expedition (1954), 7–9, 231n
Italian K2 Expedition (2008), xv
Jamling Bhote, xviii
Jasmine Tours, 203
Jovovic, Miodrag, xvi
K2, 9, 99, 225
Abruzzi Spur (route), 6, 15, 33, 41, 63, 174, 189, 197–98, 202
as “America’s Mountain,” 95
author’s trip to, 224–25, 231n
Balcony Glacier or Balcony Serac, 82 (see also serac below)
Black Pyramid, 16, 93, 180–81
Bottleneck, xxi, xxii, xxiii, xxiv, 38, 68, 117, 145, 161, 213, 233n
Bottleneck, ropes swept away by avalanche, August 1, 2008, 79, 89, 99, 101, 106, 112–13, 119
Bottleneck, traffic jam, ascent, August 1, 2008, xxi, xxiii–xxiv, xxv, xxvii, 11–12, 231n, 232n
camp system of ascent, 37, 93
Cesen route, 15, 47, 66, 180, 187, 194, 195, 198
crevasses, 60, 64, 96
dangers of descent, 77
the dead of 2008, 212
“death list” kept by Chris Klinke, 174, 176–77
death of Dren Mandic, 20–22, 232n
death of Gerald McDonnell, 157, 189
death of Hugues d’Aubarède, 109, 113, 117, 118
death of Jahan Baig, 31
death of Jumik Bhote, 166–69
death of Korean climbers (Park, Kim, Hwang), 166–69
death of Pasang “Big Pasang” Bhote, 166–69
death of Rolf Bae, 86–89
Death Zone, 17
difficulty of, attraction of, xx
disasters of 1986, 55
early attempts to climb, 4–9
falling ice, 82, 86–87 (see also avalanche)
fatalities (previous to 2008), xx, 8, 35, 39, 55, 57, 60, 71, 77, 82, 96, 116
first summit by Italians (1954), 9, 10
Gilkey Memorial, xiii, 68, 93–96, 206–7
height, xx, 3, 4, 10
House’s Chimney, 15–16, 93, 175, 207
Houston expedition (1953), 93–96, 234n
jet stream and, 60
location, xx
Magic Line route, xxiii, 96
naming of, 3–4
Negrotto Pass, 7
1986, deaths, 55
number of climbers making summit, xx, xxiv, 72
photographs by Sella, 6
rope placement/rope problems, August 1, 2008, xxii, xxiv, 66, 67, 79, 88, 89, 99, 100, 105, 108, 112, 131, 139, 177, 223–24
routes to the su
mmit, xxii–xxiii
Savoia Glacier, 7, 95
Sella Pass, 7
serac, danger of, xiii, xxii, xxiii, xxiv, 12, 41, 42, 43, 57, 82, 86, 155, 156, 161, 167, 213
Shoulder, xix, xxi, xxii, 15, 23, 24, 25, 29, 66, 161, 164, 233n
size and shape, 63
Southwest Pillar, 96
summit, 65
superstitions and gods of, 35, 42, 101, 224
Traverse, xxii, 11, 19, 42–43, 57, 86, 88, 111–12, 233n
Wiessner expedition (1939), 35–39, 93, 95
women on, 71, 96
K2 Tall Mountain Expedition, xvii
“K2: The Killing Peak” (Powers), 230n
Karakoram mountain range, 3–4, 65, 178, 231n
Kathmandu, 84, 103, 107, 127, 235n
Khan, Mohammed, xvi, 16
Kilcornan, Ireland, 50, 230n
author in, 213–15
McDonnell family in, 177–78, 181, 197, 199, 237n
wake for McDonnell, 214–15, 219
Kilimanjaro, 74
Kim Hyo-gyeong, xvi, 161
confirmed dead, 170
K2 descent, August 1–2, 126, 160
Kim Jae-Soo, xvi, 44, 67, 100, 119, 120, 224, 229n, 233n, 235n
K2 descent, August 1–2, 107–9, 125
missing climbers and, 160, 170
Shishapangma expedition, 127
Kim Seong-sang, xvi
Kim Tae-gyu, xvi
Klinke, Chris, xvi, 98, 113, 188, 229n, 231n, 236n
Cas van de Gevel missing and, 188
Confortola helped by, 208, 209
“death list” kept by, 174, 176–77, 188, 195
departure from K2, 211, 237n
disputed versions of McDonnell’s death and, 222
helicopter transport for wounded and, 204
life after K2, 211
respects at Gilkey Memorial, 211
search for missing climbers and, 162–63, 171, 173–74, 179–80, 188–89, 237n
spotting of Van Rooijen, 181–82, 191, 237n
strobe light owned by, 98, 235n
treatment of Van de Gevel and Van Rooijen, 202
Kodas, Michael, 222, 229n, 230n, 233n
Lacedelli, Lino, 8–9, 35, 59, 95, 231n
Lama, “Little” Pasang, xvi, 70–71, 169, 200, 230n
K2 descent, August 1–2, 100–104, 106
Lee Sung-rok, xvi
Lee Won-sub, xvi
Leustean, Mircea, xvii
Lhotse, 128
Limerick Leader, 177
Mahdi (Hunza porter), 9–10
Mandic, Dren, xv, 11–14, 174, 232n
abandonment of body at 26,000 feet, 32
attempt to move body, 22, 25–26
clothing worn on August 1, 11
fall to death, 20–22, 23–24, 232n
girlfriend, Mirjana, 14, 33
K2 ascent, August 1, 16–22, 232n
Manni, Roberto, xv, xxvi, 202, 204, 209
Masherbrum, Mount, 4, 14, 204
McDonnell, Gerard, xv, 49–51, 52, 115, 123, 161, 162, 234n, 236n
in Base Camp, 134, 136–37
bivouac on K2, 132–36, 138–40, 236n
blog, 236n
clothing worn on August 1, 132–33, 157, 167, 200
courage of, 152, 223
death, 157, 167, 177, 189
death, disputed versions, 221–23
Everest climb, 50–51, 152
family in Kilcornan, 50, 73, 137, 177–78, 181, 197, 199, 221, 237n
girlfriend Annie, 50, 73, 134, 137 (see also Starkey, Annie)
K2 ascent, August 1, 51, 58, 61
K2 descent and loses way, August 1–2, 76, 118, 131–36, 138–40, 151–54
loss of mental clarity, 154
Marco Confortola and, 131–37
missing South Korean climbers, Jumik Bhote, and, 145, 152–54, 221–23, 236n
nickname “Jesus,” 133, 134
Pemba Gyalje and, 137
previous K2 attempt, 51, 58, 137
Rolf Bae and, 61, 84
search for, 162
singing of, 136
special rope brought, 51, 112, 145
on summit, 72, 73, 234n
Van Rooijen and, 49–51, 54, 140, 141–42, 151, 236n
visits Gilkey Memorial, 96
wake for, 214–15
McDonnell, J.J., 178, 215
McDonnell, Margaret, 214
McKinley, Mount, 137, 152
Meherban, Karim, xvii, 27, 48, 60, 111, 177, 181, 221
missing status, 161
Mera Peak, 128
Meyer, Eric, M.D., xvi, xix–xxviii, 33, 108, 229n
activities of August 2, 2008 and descent to Base Camp, 159–64, 236n
attempts radio contact with missing climbers, 162
call to mother, Joyce, 105
Chhiring Dorje and, 97–99, 104–5
condition of Van Rooijen and, 196
death of Baig and, 32
decision to turn back, xxv–xxvi, 231n
departure from K2, 211, 237n
fall of, 178–79, 189, 237n
Gerard McDonnell and, 206, 236n
K2 ascent, August 1, xix–xxv, 230–31n
K2 descent, August 1, xxvi
K2 descent, August 2, to Base Camp, 176, 178–79, 189
rescue of Mandic attempted, 23–26, 30, 223, 232n
Rolf Bae and, 84
Talus cold-weather mask, xix, 230–31n
treating of altitude sickness, 32, 160, 164
treating of Confortola, 208–10
treating of Van de Gevel and Van Rooijen, 200–201
visit to Gilkey Memorial, 96
Mingma Tunduk Sherpa, xvii, 207–8
Montgomerie, Thomas G., 3–4, 10
Mortenson, Greg, 219
mountaineers
nationalism of, 44
psychology of, 221
traits common to, 36, 45, 54
unqualified climbers, problem of, 146
Mugnier, Nicolas, 229n, 233n
Nanga Parbat, Mount, 116
death of Go Mi-sun, 205
Nardi, Daniele, xviii
Nessa, Lars Flato, xii, xv, 229n, 231n, 232n, 233n, 234n, 236n, 237n
departure from K2, 205
Gerard McDonnell and, 234n
K2 ascent, August 1, 69, 70, 233n, 234n
K2 descent, August 1, 76–77, 79, 82, 83, 86–91
K2 descent, August 2, to Base Camp, 161, 175
life after K2, 206
plate made for Rolf Bae, 206
return to Base Camp, 192–93
return to Camp Four, 97
Nielsen, Nick, xvii
Noonan, Father Joe, 214
Norit K2 Dutch International Expedition 2008, xv, 33, 233n
assembling of team, 51
in Base Camp, 52–54, 137–38
blog, 233n, 234n, 237n
camp manager for, 136
death of Gerald McDonnell, 157, 189, 206
departure from K2, 206, 210, 237n
helicopter transport for wounded, 202–3
K2 ascent, August 1, 12, 49–55
K2 descent, August 1–2, 76–77, 111–13, 117–18, 234n
no oxygen used by, 17
Pakistani cooks for, 52
rescue of Van Rooijen, 194–202
Sherpas with, 15, 66
slaughter of yak, 53, 233n
sponsorship of, 12, 49
on summit, 72–73, 234n
support team in Netherlands, 55, 73, 148
on the Traverse, 55
unqualified climbers on other teams and, 146
use of oxygen, 76