No Way Down
Page 26
visit to Gilkey Memorial, 96
website, 55, 73, 174, 182, 199
Normand, Bruce, 229n
North Face company, 49, 181, 194
Norwegian K2 Expedition 2008, xv, 233n
death of Rolf Bae, 86–89
K2 ascent, August 1, 19–20, 47–48, 69–71, 234n
K2 descent, August 1, 82–83, 86–91
K2 descent, August 2, to Base Camp, 174–75
oxygen use, 83, 86
O’Connell, Jerome, 230n, 234n, 237n
O’Leary, Virginia, 230n, 234n, 235n blog, 235n
Overleven op de K2 (Van Rooijen), 234n
Pakistan
assistance to climbers, 8, 189, 203–4
military liaison officers on K2, 14
Panzeri, Mario, xviii, 208
Park Kyeong-hyo, xvi, 161
accident and death, 128–29, 142–43, 145, 151–55, 160, 169–70
Everest climb, 126
K2 descent, August 1–2, 125–26
Pasang Kikuli, 39
Pasang Kitar, 39
Pasang Lama, 35–36, 37, 38
“Perfect Chaos” (Wilkinson), 230n
Phinsoo, 39
Pius XII, Pope, 9
Planic, Iso, xvi, 12, 205
attempt to move Dren’s body, 25–26, 29–30
death of Dren and, 21–22, 33
fall of Baig and, 31
K2 ascent, August 1, 17, 18–19
Pokharel, Tilak, 229n
Porik, Asghar Ali, 230n
Powers, Matthew, 230n
Powers, Phil, 230n, 233n
Puchoz, Mario, 8
radios, 98–99
“United Nations frequency,” 98
Rice, Nicholas, xvii, 23, 54, 174, 175, 230n, 231n, 232n, 233n, 235n, 237n
blog, 233–34n
Rinjing Sherpa, xvii, 207–8
Sabir, Nazir, 230n
Sangmu, Dawa, 75, 127, 128, 129, 170
Schoening, Pete, 93, 94–95
Sekkesaeter, Bjorn, 230n, 233n
Sella, Vittorio, 6
Selter, Andy, xvii, 230n, 237n
serac, xiii, xxii, xxiii, xxiv, xxvi, 12, 41, 42, 43, 57, 82, 86, 155, 156, 161, 167, 213
Serbian independent climber K2 2008 (Bite), xvii
Serbian K2 Vojvodina Expedition 2008, xv–xvi, 12–15
abandonment of Dren Mandic’s body at 26,000 feet, 32
blog reports from, 232n
death of Dren Mandic, 20–22, 205
death of Jahan Baig, 30–31
departure from K2, 205
descent of Kahn, 17
descent of Shaheen Baig, 16
descent of Zagorac and Planic with corpse, 22, 25–26, 32
equipment brought by, 12
expedition report, Internet, 232n
food for, 14
HAPs with, 16, 17, 21
K2 ascent, August 1, 16–22
plate made for Dren Mandic, 206–7
porters forget food, 16
use of oxygen, 16–17
Shah, Sajjad, 136, 198, 210, 230n, 236n, 237n
Sheen, Mark, xv, 178–79
Sherpas. See also Jumik Bhote
Chhiring Bhote and family as, 106, 107, 127, 128
climbing without oxygen, 72
forgotten equipment and, xx–xxi
Mandic’s fall and bad karma predicted by, 42
marketing rivalry with HAPs, 27, 42
with Norit Dutch expedition, 51
with South Korean climbers, 58–59
superstitions and gods of, 53
uneasiness, backup at Bottleneck, 12
unemployment in Nepal and, 127
on Weissner expedition, 35–39
Shimshal (village), 27
Shishapangma, 127
Siew Cheok Wai, Edwin, xviii
Singapore K2 Expedition 2008, xvii–xviii, 174
Skardu and military hospital, Pakistan, 12, 58, 62, 134, 189, 202, 204, 210, 237n
Skog, Cecilie, xv, 47–48, 70, 97, 218, 219, 230n, 231n, 232n, 233n, 234n, 236n, 237n
author’s interview with, 218
in Base Camp, 137
clothing worn on August 1, 69
death of Rolf Bae and, 86–89, 161, 175, 192–93
departure from K2, 205
“devotion to the outdoors,” 218
Dren Mandic’s fall and, 19–20
Everest climb, 47
fall on descent, 90
K2 ascent, August 1, 18, 19–20, 46–48, 60–61, 67–68, 72, 234n
K2 descent, August 1, 76–77, 82–83, 86–91
K2 descent, August 2, to Base Camp, 161, 171, 174–75
life after K2, 205
life with Rolf, 83–84
North and South Pole expeditions, 47, 205
previous K2 attempt, 46–47
return to Base Camp, 192–93, 237n
on summit, 69–71
snowblindness, 8, 200
Van Rooijen and, 141, 143, 146
Son Byung-woo, xvi
Song Gui-hwa, xvi
South Korean K2 Abruzzi Spur Flying Jump Expedition, xvi, 11, 233n
B team, 31–32, 44, 59
cook, Nawang, 204–5
departure from K2, 204–5, 237n
Jumik Bhote as Sherpa, 125–26, 127, 128, 142–43, 145, 151–55, 166–69
K2 ascent, August 1, 43–44, 57, 58
K2 descent, August 1–2, 100, 106–9, 119–21, 125–26, 131–32
K2 descent of remaining team, August 3, 197
as largest team, 44
missing climbers, 121, 128–29, 142–43, 145, 151–55, 235n
missing climbers, deaths of, 166–69, 200
nationalism of, 44
rope placement and, 223–24
Sherpas with, 16, 58–59, 69–71, 100, 105–9, 127, 128
sponsorship of, 71
on summit, 70, 71, 234n
use of oxygen, 44–45, 119
Srinagar, 6
Staleman, Jelle, xv, 51, 53, 230n, 233n, 236n, 237n
Stangeland, Oystein, xv, 91, 161
return to Base Camp, 192–93
Stangl, Christian, xxv–xxvi, xvii, xix–xxviii
Starkey, Annie, 50, 73, 134, 137, 215, 230n, 234n, 236n
disputed versions of McDonnell’s death and, 221–22
Stavanger, Norway, xii
Strang, Fredrik, xvi, 23–33, 97–98, 104, 105, 211, 230n, 237n
activities of August 2, and descent to Base Camp, 159–64, 236n
climbing record sought by, 23
deaths of Mandic and Baig, effect of, 33
decision to turn back, xxv–xxvi, 231n
fall of Baig and, 31–32
film made by, 231n, 237n
K2 ascent, August 1, xix–xxv
K2 descent, August 1, xxvi
K2 descent, August 2, to Base Camp, 179, 189
rescue of Mandic attempted, 22–26, 28–30, 223, 232n
videos by, 23, 26, 161, 200–201
Sunny Mountain Chogori Expedition, xvii
Teler, Jacek, 234n
Three Cups of Tea (Mortenson), 219
Trango Towers, 204
Trommsdorff, Christian, xvii, 230n
Urdukas, 6, 53
Van de Gevel, Cas, xv, 51–52, 53, 230n, 233n, 236n
in Base Camp, 134
bivouac on K2, 187, 191
condition of, after descent, 197, 200–201, 204
death of Hugues d’Aubarède and, 117–18, 176, 235n
evacuation from K2 by helicopter, 204, 237n
filming of Van Rooijen, 195
Gerard McDonnell and, 51, 236n
K2 ascent, August 1, 51
K2 descent, August 1–3, 2008, 111–13, 117–18, 196–97, 235n
Marco Confortola and, 77, 165, 169–70
return to Base Camp, August 3, 198–202
on summit, 72–73, 234n
Van Rooijen’s rescue and, 149, 162, 163, 165, 170, 182, 186–89, 192, 194–97, 237n
Van de Walle, Mark, 236n
Van Eck, Maarten, 55, 73, 147, 230n, 233n, 234n
rescue of Van Rooijen and, 148, 180–81, 182, 183, 189, 236n, 237n
website, 174, 182, 189, 202
Van Oss, Roeland, xv, 51, 118, 173, 230n, 233n, 235n, 236n
departure from K2, 203–4, 206, 237n
K2 descent, August 1, 54
life after K2, 206
report on deaths, 189
search for missing climbers and, 162–63, 173–74, 179, 188, 237n
spotting of Van Rooijen, 181–82, 191, 237n
Van Rooijen, Heleen, 147–48, 149–50, 194
Van Rooijen, Wilco, xv, 12, 49–55, 115, 161, 177, 230n, 231n, 232n, 233n, 236n, 237n
above Camp Three, 191, 192
author and, 219–21
backpack left behind, 113
in Base Camp, 134
bivouacs on K2, 138–40, 184–85, 189, 236n
book by, 234n, 236n
clash with d’Aubarède, 54
clothing worn on August 1, 109, 181, 188, 237n
condition of, after descent, 195, 196, 197, 199, 200–201, 204, 219
dehydration of, 144, 195
effects of ordeal, 211
end of K2 climb, 197
evacuation from K2 by helicopter, 203–4, 237n
Everest climb, 49
finds corpses, 184
Gerard McDonnell and, 49–51, 54, 234n, 236n
GPS coordinates of satellite calls and, 180–81
K2 ascent, August 1, 18–19, 51, 55, 59, 60, 71–72, 233n
K2 descent and loss of way, August 1–3, 100, 118, 138–50, 179, 183–89, 193–97
as leader, 53–54
leaves Confortola and McDonnell, 140, 141–42, 151
loss of mental clarity, 147, 149, 185
missing South Korean climbers, Jumik Bhote, and, 142–43, 145, 235n
previous K2 attempts, 12, 49–50
rescue, 194–97
return to Base Camp, August 3, 198–202
satellite phone (Thuraya), calls for help, 146–48, 149–50, 162, 177, 183, 194
search for, 162
self-preservation of, 141–43
snowblindness, 141, 143, 146
son, Teun, 49, 194
sponsorship of, 49
spotted from Base Camp, 181, 191
on summit, 72, 73, 234n
summit call to Van Eck, 73
video interview, 200–201
at wake for Gerard McDonnell, 219
wife, Heleen, 49, 147–50, 194
Vernay, Philippe, 116, 230n
Vernay, Raphaele, 116, 230n, 233n, 234n, 235n
Vid, Theodora, xvii
Wagnon, Patrick, xvii
Walters, Paul, xvi, 33, 230n, 232n
K2 descent, August 2, to Base Camp, 179, 189, 236n
Warner, Chris, xvi, 230n, 233n, 234n, 235n
Watson, Dave, xvii
weather
d’Aubarède and, 115
Friday, August 1, 2008, xix, xx, xxvi, 12
Houston expedition (1953), 93
late July, 2008 unforecast winds, 16
night of August 1–2, 2008, 132
Saturday, August 2, 2008, 160, 163
Weathers, Beck, 133
Wiessner, Fritz, 35–39, 93, 95, 232n
Wiessner expedition (1939), 232n
Wilkinson, Freddie, 230n
Wolfe, Dudley, 36–39
Workman, William Hunger and Fanny Bullock, 4
Yeats, William Butler, 214
Zagorac, Predrag, xvi, 12, 17, 205, 230n, 232n
attempt to move Dren’s body, 25–26, 29–30
death of Dren and, 20–22, 33
fall of Baig and, 31, 232n
K2 ascent, August 1, 20–22
Zarate, Patricia Prevost, 219, 234n
Zavka, Stefano, 116, 235n
Zerain, Alberto, xvi, 11, 16, 61, 62–63, 69, 230n, 233n, 234n, 237n
author’s interview with, 218–19
“devotion to the outdoors,” 218, 219
K2 ascent and summit August 1, 57, 61–68, 234n
K2 descent, August 1, 67–68, 234n
life after K2, 218–19
return to Base Camp, 174
on summit, 61, 64–65, 67
visit to Gilkey Memorial, 96
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
I owe a debt of gratitude to the many people who graciously gave me many hours to tell me their story or the stories of their loved ones who died.
In particular, I thank Cecilie Skog, Annie Starkey, Mine Dumas, and Raphaele Vernay.
For historical discussions of the Himalayas and technical climbing descriptions I am grateful to Phil Powers, Kurt Diemberger, Agostino da Polenza, Maurice Isserman, and Qudrat Ali as well as to the following books: Fallen Giants, by Maurice Isserman and Stuart Weaver; K2: The Story of the Savage Mountain, by Jim Curran; Going Higher, by Charles S. Houston; The Avalanche Handbook, by David McClung and Peter Schaerer; and Wilderness Mountaineering, by Phil Powers. These books are all good introductions to the mountains and their dangers.
I would also like to thank the following people: Halyna Freeland; Andrea Kannapell, who worked side by side with me on the foreign desk at the New York Times on the day I wrote the first story and is such a wise adviser; and Andrew Ensslen, who risked his life by venturing with me north past Concordia and was flown out by helicopter from the mountains. I am also indebted to my excellent editors Jennifer Barth and Joel Rickett, and to my wonderful agent Andrew Wylie.
Thanks as well to: John Makinson, Mary Boies, David Boies, Bruce Nichols, Gillian Blake, Rick Gladstone, Greg Winter (for the better intro), Susan Chira, David Gillen, Jim Roberts, Chris Conway, Mike Nizza, David Smith, Marc Charney, Dexter Filkins, Alberto Zerain, Patricia Prevost Zarate, John Elsen, Mick Sussman, Mark van de Walle, George Semler, Hannah Semler, Santiago Lyon, Rob Lerner, Kim Jae-soo, Go Mi-sun, David Hamilton, Peter Truell, Jerry del Missier, Rosa Shipley, Alan Cowell, Su-jin Chu, the families and friends of Philippe Vernay and Hugues d’Aubarède, Hervé Perouse, Nick Rice, Roeland van Oss, Jelle Staleman, Lars Flato Nessa, Bjorn Sekkesaeter, Tom Sjogren, Alisa Dogramadzieva, Predrag Zagorac, Milivoj Erdeljan, George Martin, Chuck Boyd, Andy Selter, Virginia O’Leary, Judy Aull, Natalka Chomiak, Chrystia Chomiak, Anne Freeland, Justine Simon, Eric Meyer (for many things, especially the many hours he gave me and his good-natured patience), Fredrik Strang, Chris Klinke, Chhiring Dorje, Marco Confortola, John Fisher Burns, Wilco van Rooijen, Cas van de Gevel, Tilak Pokharel, Donatella Fioravanti, Enrico Dalla Rosa, Barbara Baraldi, Asghar Ali Porik, Sajjad Shah, Erika Koning, Alan Terry, Douglas Bowley, Audrey Hintzy, Nicolas Mugnier, Yan Giezendanner, Nazir Sabir, Dirk Grunert, Jacek Teler, Paulo Roxo, Daniela Teixeira, Michael Kodas, Maarten van Eck, Jon Yellen, Jack Reilly, Elisabeth Rosenthal, David Roberts, Mike Farris, Pat Falvey, and Gary Landeck.
Also, Chris Warner of Earth Treks (who helped me care), Bruce Normand, Len Kannapell, Liz Alderman, Miguel Helft, Carol Bowley, Matt Ericson, Alexis Gelber, Bill Brink, Stuart Emmrich, Jawaid Iqbal, Anup Kaphle, Jerome O’Connell, Eelco Jansen, Paul Golob, Mike Oreskes, Paul Walters, Julian Curnuck, Karrar Haidri of Saltoro Summits, Chhiring Bhote, Tim O’Brien, Christian Trommsdorff, Yannick Graziani, Captain Shan-ul-Haq, Katarzyna Sklodowska, Pavel Wojas, Serge Civera, Alex Friedman, Salman Masood, Jane Perlez, Katherine Ensslen, Elettra Fiumi, Peter Chang, Choe Sang-hun, Joe Bowley, Jane Bowley, Anya Stiglitz, Tilak Pokharel, Jason Sack, Alan Arnette, Au Bon Pain at the Port Authority Bus Station in New York (for the table in the corner), Natalka Freeland, David Goodhart, John Lloyd. And last, but not least, my great children, Natalka, Halyna, and Ivan Bowley.
About the Author
GRAHAM BOWLEY is a reporter for the New York Times. He grew up in England and lives in New York with his wife and three children.
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