Terra : Cooking from the Heart of Napa Valley (9780307815323)
Page 19
4 (8-ounce) lamb loins, trimmed of silver skin
1 tablespoon olive oil
Pinch of chopped fresh rosemary
Pinch of chopped fresh thyme
Chickpea Batter
1 cup chickpea flour
3 tablespoons cornstarch
1½ teaspoons baking powder
¼ teaspoon garlic powder
¼ teaspoon salt
Pinch of cayenne pepper
Pinch of freshly ground pepper
⅔ to 1 cup hot water
Anchovy–Black Olive Sauce
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
1 teaspoon minced garlic
⅓ cup dry white wine
1 cup veal stock or brown chicken stock
2 tablespoons tomato puree
Pinch of chopped fresh rosemary
2 teaspoons minced kalamata olives
⅛ teaspoon minced anchovy fillet
¼ teaspoon minced capers
Pinch of minced lemon zest
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
Vegetable oil for deep-frying
4 large artichokes, cooked and quartered
1 cup sliced onion
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
16 sugar snap peas, stemmed and blanched
Salt and freshly ground white pepper to taste
2 cups hot mashed potatoes
4 fresh rosemary sprigs, for garnish
TO MARINATE THE LAMB LOINS, coat them with the olive oil and sprinkle on all sides with the herbs. Cover and refrigerate for at least 1 hour or up to overnight.
TO MAKE THE BATTER, combine all the dry ingredients in a medium bowl. Whisk in ⅔ cup hot water until smooth, adding the remaining ⅓ cup water if necessary (the batter will be very thick). Set aside.
TO START THE SAUCE, in a medium saucepan heat the butter and garlic together over high heat and sauté the garlic until lightly browned. Add the wine and cook until reduced to 2 tablespoons. Add the stock, tomato puree, and rosemary, and cook until reduced to ⅔ cup. Set aside. Just before serving, heat the sauce and then whisk in the olives, anchovy, capers, and lemon zest. Season with salt and pepper (it won’t need much salt, since the olives and anchovy are salty).
TO COOK THE LAMB LOINS, heat a large grill pan or sauté pan over high heat until very hot. Season the lamb with salt and pepper and grill for 2 minutes, then turn at a 45-degree angle on the same side to make cross marks and cook for 1 minute. Turn the loins over and cook 2 to 3 minutes longer for medium rare. Let rest in a warm place.
MEANWHILE, TO DEEP-FRY THE FRITTERS, preheat the oven to 250°. Heat 2 inches of oil in a deep, heavy pot to 350°. Add the artichokes and onion to the batter. Using a large spoon, scoop some of the batter, making sure you get some artichokes and onion in each scoop. Fry for about 3 minutes, or until crisp and golden brown. Using a slotted metal spoon, transfer to paper towels to drain, then transfer to a baking sheet pan and keep warm in the oven. Repeat with the remaining batter.
Melt the butter in a medium sauté pan or skillet over high heat, add the snap peas, and sauté for about 1 minute, or until heated through. Season with salt and pepper.
TO SERVE, finish the sauce. Put ½ cup of mashed potatoes in the center of each of 4 warmed plates. Put one fourth of the fritters on the upper side of the mashed potatoes. Spoon the sauce on the lower side of the mashed potatoes and arrange the snap peas between the fritters and the sauce. Cut each lamb loin into 5 medallions and place them on the sauce in a semicircle. Garnish with the fresh rosemary sprigs.
DESSERTS
Almond Pithiviers with Meyer Lemon Ice Cream and Huckleberry Sauce
Almond Pithiviers with Meyer Lemon Ice Cream and Huckleberry Sauce
Serves 6
This recipe makes six individual pastries, but plan on serving only four, because there’s no better breakfast than warm leftover almond pithiviers with coffee. At the restaurant, if there are any left over in the morning, whoever shows up first gets a special treat.
Almond Pithiviers
24 ounces puff pastry, made with unsalted butter
1¼ cups almond cream
1 egg yolk
½ teaspoon water
3 teaspoons sugar
Huckleberry Sauce
2 cups fresh or frozen huckleberries or blueberries, stemmed
¼ cup sugar
Finely minced zest of ½ lemon
2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
1 teaspoon cornstarch mixed with 1 tablespoon water
1½ pints Meyer lemon ice cream
TO MAKE THE PITHIVIERS, roll out the puff pastry on a floured board to a 3/16-inch thickness. Cut out twelve 4½-inch rounds. Mound 3 tablespoons of the almond cream in the center of each of 6 rounds, leaving a ¾-inch border. Brush the border of the puff pastry right up to the almond cream with the egg yolk. Be careful not to let any of the egg yolk run down the sides of the pastry, or it will not rise in that spot.
Gently lay the other 6 rounds on top of those with the almond cream, lining them up perfectly with the one below to keep it round. Using the dull side of a 3-inch-diameter pastry cutter or a drinking glass, center it over the top of each round and gently push down to seal the almond cream in. (Don’t push so hard that the dough gets cut through, but hard enough to make a seal.) Along the outside edges that you have just created, run your finger over the dough to carefully seal the puff pastry out to the side.
Using a sharp paring knife, decorate the top by making shallow cuts in the top of each pithiviers, being very careful not to cut all the way through, to create crescent shapes. Next, cut the edges of the dough into a scallop pattern to make the pithiviers look like a flower (don’t cut closer to the almond cream seal than ¼ inch). Add the water to the remaining egg yolk to make an egg wash and brush the tops of the pithiviers completely with the egg wash. Be careful not to let any egg wash run down the sides, or it will act like glue and the pithiviers won’t rise in that spot. Transfer the pastries to a baking sheet pan lined with parchment paper and refrigerate until the dough is set, at least 45 minutes. Preheat the oven to 375°. Remove the pithiviers from the refrigerator and sprinkle each with ½ teaspoon sugar. Bake for 10 minutes, then rotate the pan, decrease the oven temperature to 325°, and bake for 15 to 20 minutes longer, or until golden brown. Let cool slightly on the pan if serving immediately; cool completely if serving later.
MEANWHILE, TO MAKE THE SAUCE, combine the huckleberries, sugar, lemon zest, and lemon juice in a nonreactive saucepan over low heat. Cook until the sugar dissolves and the huckleberries release some of their juice, about 5 minutes. Since each batch of berries will have a different sweetness, you may need to adjust the sugar or lemon juice to your taste. Whisk in one half of the cornstarch mixture, return to a simmer, and cook until thickened, about 1 minute. Check the consistency of the sauce; if necessary, add more of the cornstarch mixture and return to a simmer. Set aside and keep warm.
TO SERVE, if necessary, warm the pithiviers in a preheated 350° oven for 5 minutes. On each of 6 plates, pool some huckleberry sauce at the top of the plate. Place a pithiviers on the other side, then place a small scoop of ice cream in the center of the huckleberry sauce.
Apple Tart with Vanilla Ice Cream and Caramel Sauce
Serves 4
Throughout the year, we top this rustic-elegant puff pastry tart with almost any fruit that’s in season. The almond cream seems to go with everything—peaches, apricots, pears, and even figs. The only fruit we wouldn’t recommend are berries. The tart can also be made in a single, larger circle, rectangle, or square.
4 Granny Smith apples, peeled and cored
1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice
3 tablespoons unsalted butter
⅓ cup plus 1 teaspoon sugar
12 ounces puff pastry, made with unsalted butter
¾ cup almond cream
1 egg yolk
1 teaspoon water
1 cup caramel sauce
; 1 pint vanilla bean ice cream
CUT EACH APPLE INTO 8 WEDGES and toss them in the lemon juice so they won’t brown. In a large sauté pan or skillet over high heat, melt the butter, then add the ⅓ cup sugar and let cook until it starts to caramelize. Add the apples and cook, tossing frequently so that the caramel doesn’t burn, for about 5 minutes, or until the apples are an even caramel color but have not cooked through. (The apples are going to cook again, so they need to retain some body.) Transfer the apples to a rimmed baking sheet pan and let cool. Trans-fer to a bowl and refrigerate for at least 2 hours.
Meanwhile, on a lightly floured board, roll the puff pastry out into a 10-inch square that is ⅛-inch thick. Let rest in the refrigerator for 2 hours. To assemble the tarts, cut out four 5-inch-diameter rounds from the puff pastry sheet and place them on a baking sheet pan lined with parchment paper. Mound about 3 tablespoons almond cream into the center of each round. Overlap 8 apple wedges in a circle on the almond cream, leaving a ½-inch border. (The apples will be closer together toward the center and farther apart on the edges.) Be careful not to let any of the juice from the apples drip down the sides, or the pastry will not rise in that spot. Refrigerate the tarts for about 15 minutes to set the pastry again.
Preheat the oven to 400°. In a small bowl, combine the egg yolk with the water to make an egg wash. Brush the ½-inch border of each tart with the egg wash, taking care not to let the egg wash run down the sides, or the pastry will not rise in that spot. Sprinkle the edges of each tart with ¼ teaspoon sugar. Place the tarts in the upper third of the oven, decrease the oven temperature to 350°, and bake for 25 to 30 minutes, or until the tarts are browned on the bottom. Let cool slightly on a wire rack if serving immediately; let cool completely to serve later.
TO SERVE, if necessary, warm the apple tarts in a preheated 350° oven for about 5 minutes. Place 1 tart in the center of each of 4 warmed plates and spoon the caramel sauce around the outside of the tart. Put a scoop of vanilla bean ice cream on top of each apple tart.
Fig Fritters with Ginger Ice Cream
Serves 4
The light fritter batter we use here is a lot like tempura batter, and must be very cold when fried so that it takes on a lacy texture. Use very ripe figs, which will develop an intense, jam-like quality when they’re cooked. The batter also works well with other soft fruits, such as bananas, peach wedges or apricots filled with almond cream.
Vegetable oil for deep-frying
8 large ripe brown turkey figs or 16 black mission figs at room temperature
Fritter Batter
1 cup pastry flour
⅓ cup rice flour
⅓ cup sugar
Pinch of salt
1 egg
1 cup ice water
1 pint ginger ice cream
¼ cup julienned crystallized ginger
HEAT 3 INCHES OF OIL IN A DEEP, heavy pot to 350°. Wipe the figs with a damp cloth to remove any dust.
TO MAKE THE BATTER, combine all the ingredients in a large bowl, and whisk until just blended; don’t worry if there are a few lumps. Dip 2 figs into the batter and immediately deep-fry until golden brown, about 2 minutes. Using a wire-mesh skimmer or slotted metal spoon, trans-fer to paper towels to drain. Repeat with the remaining figs.
TO SERVE, put a small scoop of ginger ice cream in the center of each bowl. Cut the turkey figs in half and place 4 halves around the ice cream. If using black mission figs, keep them whole and put 4 around each serving of ice cream. Sprinkle the crystallized ginger on the ice cream.
Chocolate Truffle Cake with Espresso Ice Cream
Chocolate Truffle Cake with Espresso Ice Cream
Makes 6 cakes
The fad of melting chocolate cake is all around us. We like the idea, but we were determined to create a version that didn’t rely on half-cooked batter for the melting effect. The trick we came up with is inserting a truffle into the batter just before baking. These cakes can be baked ahead of time and reheated, and the truffles can be made in advance and frozen. The truffle recipe actually makes 8 truffles, so the cook gets a nice little bonus. To serve the truffles on their own, you can double or triple the recipe, using any alcohol you prefer in place of the Cognac; dust the finished truffles with cocoa powder.
Chocolate Truffles
3½ ounces bittersweet chocolate, chopped
1 teaspoon egg yolk
3 tablespoons heavy cream
4 teaspoons Cognac
Chocolate Tuiles
4 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 tablespoons honey
6 tablespoons pastry flour
½ cup confectioners’ sugar
2 tablespoons cocoa
1 egg white
Cake
6 ounces bittersweet chocolate, coarsely chopped
6 tablespoons unsalted butter
3 eggs
¾ cup sugar
5 tablespoons plus 1½ teaspoons cornstarch, sifted
1 pint espresso ice cream
2 tablespoons unsweetened cocoa powder for dusting
TO MAKE THE TRUFFLES, melt the chocolate in a double boiler over barely simmering water (don’t let the water touch the bottom of the bowl or the chocolate will get too hot). Remove from the heat and add the egg yolk. Whisk until just blended, being careful not to overmix, or the chocolate will become stiff and hard to work with. In a small saucepan, bring the cream and the Cognac just to a boil (if your saucepan is shallow, the Cognac may ignite; just blow it out carefully). Whisk the cream mixture into the chocolate mixture until smooth and shiny. Transfer the mixture to a smaller, deeper bowl. Refrigerate for at least 4 hours or overnight.
Using a large melon baller, form ¾-inch balls from the truffle mixture. Flatten the shaped truffles slightly into fat discs and refrigerate until ready to use. (The truffle mixture will keep, refrigerated, for up to 2 weeks.)
TO MAKE THE TUILES, in a heavy-duty mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, cream the butter and honey until light and fluffy. Mean-while, sift together the flour, sugar, and cocoa, then add it to the butter mixture while mixing on a very slow speed. Once incorporated, add the egg white and mix to form a batter. Transfer to a smaller container and refrigerate until cold.
Preheat the oven to 350°. Make a template to spread the batter over. To do this, find a large disposable plastic container approximately ⅓2 inch thick. Cut a large square piece from the side of the container, then cut out a triangle shape from the square that measures about 5 inches long on two sides and 3 inches long on the third side. If the plastic starts to roll up too much, plunge it into a pot of boiling water for a minute to soften, then press between 2 pans with some weight. Use a silpat-lined baking sheet pan, or butter and flour a baking sheet pan. Lay the template down at one end and with a small spatula spread the batter to evenly fill the form. Make one final pass with the spatula in a single gesture to smooth. Carefully remove the template and repeat as many times as will fit on the baking pan. Make a couple extra in case some break (they are very fragile). Bake for 15 to 20 minutes, or until they are very dark brown and a little toasted at the edges. While they are baking, lay out a few large cans (about 6 inches in diameter) and brace them with a utensil so they don’t roll. Remove the tuiles from the oven and immediately drape them over the cans so that they make a delicate arch. They form quickly. Remove from the cans and repeat until all the tuiles are formed. Let cool completely. Store in an airtight container.
TO PREPARE THE CAKES, preheat the oven to 325°. Melt the chocolate and butter together in a double boiler over barely simmering water (don’t let the water touch the bottom of the bowl, or the chocolate will get too hot). Meanwhile, whisk together the eggs and sugar in a large bowl until the sugar dissolves. Whisk the chocolate mixture into the egg mixture, then gently whisk in the cornstarch just until blended. (Don’t overwhisk, as too much air in the batter can cause the cakes to rise and fall too sharply.)
Line a baking sheet pan with parchment paper. Place six 4-inch-diameter
by 1-inch-high rings or 8-ounce soufflé dishes on the paper. Divide two thirds of the batter among the 6 rings or dishes. Drop a truffle into the center of each ring or dish and cover with the remaining batter until the mold is three fourths full. Bake for 10 to 15 minutes, or until the tops have formed crusts but the cakes are still soft to the touch. If serving the cakes immediately, let them cool slightly so that the rings can be easily removed by pushing the cakes up through the rings (this will keep the edges of the cakes from being broken off). If using soufflé dishes, leave the cakes in the dishes. Let cool completely if serving later.
TO SERVE, if necessary, reheat the cakes in a preheated 350° oven for 3 minutes. Carefully remove the rings and transfer the cakes to one side of each serving plate using a solid metal spatula. (If using soufflé dishes, serve the cakes in the dishes.) Place a tuile, short side on the plate, against the cake (the arched point should be over the cake). Place a small scoop of espresso ice cream on the other side of the tuile.
Stone-Fruit Crostata
Serves 4
A crostata is a rustic Italian tart that’s loosely formed and thin-crusted—a style of pastry that lends itself particularly well to stone fruit, which has a lot of flavor and doesn’t need to cook for a long time. We like to use the somewhat vague term “stone fruit” on our menu, because it gives us the freedom to use the best peaches, nectarines, apricots, or plums we can get our hands on that day. For a while, we called this dessert the “tart of tonight,” but we got tired of all the jokes about who that might be.