Terra : Cooking from the Heart of Napa Valley (9780307815323)
Page 20
Crostata Dough
2 cups pastry flour
¼ cup sugar
½ teaspoon ground cinnamon
¼ teaspoon ground nutmeg
1 cup (2 sticks) cold unsalted butter, cut into ½-inch cubes
¼ cup ice water
4 cups peaches, nectarines, apricots, or plums, peeled if desired, pitted, and cut into ½-inch slices
¼ to ⅓ cup sugar
1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice
1 egg yolk
1 teaspoon water
1 cup heavy cream
¼ cup vanilla sugar, or ¼ cup confectioners’ sugar and ½ teaspoon vanilla extract
½ cup crème fraîche or sour cream
TO MAKE THE DOUGH, combine the flour, sugar, cinnamon, and nutmeg in a food processor and pulse for 1 minute. Add the butter and pulse until a pea-size crumb is formed. With the machine running, add the ice water all at once. Process just until the dough comes together. Remove from the bowl and form into a 1-inch-thick disc on a lightly floured board. Wrap the dough in plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 1 hour or up to 3 days.
When the dough is ready to roll, combine the fruit with sugar to taste in a large bowl. Add the lemon juice.
TO PREPARE THE CROSTATAS, roll the dough out on a lightly floured board to a ⅜-inch thickness. Cut out four 7-inch-diameter rounds. Place the rounds on a baking sheet pan lined with parchment paper. Refrigerate for 10 to 15 minutes, or until the dough is pliable but not so soft that it tears easily. Quickly divide the fruit mixture into mounds among the 4 rounds, leaving a 1½-inch border on each round. Carefully fold the border over the fruit, pleating as you go; the center of the tarts will be open. In a small bowl, combine the egg yolk and water to make an egg wash. Lightly brush the folded-over dough edge with the egg wash. Return the crostatas to the refrigerator for about 15 minutes. Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 350°. Bake the crostatas for 55 to 65 minutes, or until the dough is golden brown on top and on the bottom.
TO SERVE, in a deep bowl beat the cream with the vanilla sugar. Fold in the crème fraîche. Place each warm crostata on a plate and spoon a large dollop of the cream mixture against the crostata, just overlapping it slightly.
Lemon Crème Brûlée
Serves 6
Crème brûlée can sometimes be cloyingly sweet and rich. We think adding the lemon is the perfect way to keep things in balance. If Meyer lemons are in season, by all means use them; they add a lovely delicate flavor and perfume. Because these individual custards are made in shallow gratin dishes, it’s impossible to caramelize them under a broiler, because the cream would break before the sugar caramelizes. Instead, use a small, hand-held blowtorch, available in most hardware stores and generally not very expensive. Once you get over any initial jitters about working with a flame, you’ll discover how much easier this method is.
3¾ cups heavy cream
Grated zest of 2 lemons
1 vanilla bean, split lengthwise
¾ cup plus 3 tablespoons sugar
9 egg yolks
1 egg
¾ cup freshly squeezed lemon juice
PREHEAT THE OVEN to 275°. In a large saucepan, combine the cream and lemon zest. Scrape the seeds from the vanilla bean and add them to the pan, along with the bean. Bring just to a boil, then remove from the heat.
IN A LARGE BOWL, whisk together ½ cup plus 1 tablespoon sugar, the egg yolks, egg, and lemon juice. Whisk in the cream mixture quickly so that the egg does not cook. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve. Rinse and air-dry the vanilla bean, which can be used to make vanilla sugar. Divide the mixture among six 10-ounce gratin dishes. Place the gratin dishes in a roasting pan. Slide the middle rack partially out of the oven and place the pan on the rack. Pour boiling water into the pan to a depth of about ¼ inch, making sure none of the water comes over the sides and into the dishes. Very carefully slide the rack back into the oven. Bake for 15 to 17 minutes, or until the custard jiggles slightly when you tap a dish but is set. Carefully remove the gratin dishes from the water and let cool. Refrigerate for at least 3 hours.
TO SERVE, sprinkle 1 tablespoon sugar evenly over 1 custard. Use a hand-held blowtorch to evenly caramelize the sugar, keeping the blow-torch moving and about 3 inches above the dish (do only one dish at a time, or the sugar will liquefy while waiting on the custard). Repeat with the remaining custards.
Carrying a Torch
A TORCH IS A WONDERFULLY USEFUL KITCHEN TOOL. WE PARTICULARLY LIKE IT FOR CARAMELIZING THE TOP OF CRÈME BRÛLÉE (A BROILER WILL OFTEN HEAT AND BREAK THE CUSTARD BEFORE THE SUGAR CARAMELIZES). ADJUST THE FLAME TO LOW AND POINT IT TOWARD THE CENTER OF THE CUSTARD, HOLDING IT ABOUT 3 INCHES AWAY. KEEP THE FLAME MOVING TO AVOID BURNING ONE SPOT. IF THE CARAMELIZING STARTS HAPPENING TOO FAST, JUST PULL THE FLAME AWAY AND IT WILL STOP INSTANTLY. A TORCH IS ALSO HANDY FOR UNMOLDING ANYTHING MADE WITH BUTTER OR OIL, SUCH AS CAKES, TARTES, AND TERRINES. JUST RUN THE TORCH QUICKLY AROUND THE OUTSIDE OF THE MOLD. AFTER A FEW PASSES THE MOLD SHOULD SLIP OFF EASILY.
Macadamia Nut Tart with Banana-Rum Ice Cream
Serves 4
Rather than make classic desserts that people have all kinds preconceived opinions about, we prefer to create surprising variations of our own. This macadamia nut tart, for example, is our take on pecan pie. At Spago, we used to call the filling “Buddy Pie” after those little pecan pies you can buy in convenience stores, and at Terra, we still call the filling “Buddy Mix.” You can make this tart with any nut you like. You can also make a single 8-inch tart but you’ll need to double the filling. We generally make a few extra of these. Hiro always steals one, saying it’s his “energy bar.”
Pâte Sucrée
Filling
⅓ cup firmly packed brown sugar
⅓ cup sugar
¾ cup light corn syrup
1 egg
2 egg yolks
2 tablespoons Myers’s Rum
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
¼ vanilla bean, split lengthwise, or 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1½ cups whole macadamia nuts, lightly toasted
1 pint banana-rum ice cream
4 tablespoons unsweetened shredded coconut, toasted (optional)
REMOVE THE DOUGH FROM THE REFRIGERATOR and let set for 5 minutes, or until the dough gives to a light pressure. On a lightly floured board, roll the pâte sucrée out to a 3/16-inch thickness and cut out 4 rounds about 5½ inches in diameter. Place four 4-inch metal rings on a small baking sheet pan lined with parchment paper. Line the rings with the pastry rounds. Trim off the excess dough around the top. Refrigerate the lined rings for at least 30 minutes or up to 1 day if covered.
TO MAKE THE FILLING, in a medium bowl combine all the ingredients except the butter and vanilla and whisk until smooth. In a small sauté pan or skillet over medium heat, melt the butter with the vanilla bean, if using, until foamy, then allow the butter to continue cooking until it becomes a dark brown; the butter should not burn but have a toasted-nut aroma. Strain the browned butter through a fine-mesh sieve into the sugar mixture and whisk together. Add the vanilla extract, if using.
TO PREPARE THE TARTS, preheat the oven to 350°. Fill each tart with toasted macadamia nuts, packing them tightly but keeping them in one layer. Spoon the filling over the macadamia nuts to just the top of the nuts. Put the tarts in the oven and bake for 25 to 30 minutes, or until the filling rises and is golden brown. (If the tarts are overcooked they will be hard, and if undercooked they will be mushy. The perfect tart is chewy inside and a little crisp outside.) Let the tarts cool for 10 minutes on the pan before removing the rings. To remove the rings, run a small knife around the inside of each ring, then gently lift the ring off. Serve now, or let cool completely to serve later.
TO SERVE, if necessary, reheat the tarts in a preheated 350° oven for 5 minutes. Place each tart on a dinner plate and top with a scoop of banana-rum ice cream. Sprinkle each plate and tart with the toasted coconut.
Tart of Fromage Blanc w
ith Caramelized Pears
Serves 6
This is essentially a sophisticated cheesecake with a surprising depth of flavor and much less sweetness than the traditional kind. We use the term fromage blanc loosely to refer to a young white cheese—in this case, fresh goat cheese, the kind without a rind, usually sold in cylinders. We love Laura Chenel’s Chef’s Chevre, which is packed in 5-pound containers; the same cheese is also sold in 4- and 8-ounce logs. (Laura Chenel products are available in gourmet markets or through mail order.) You can also use this recipe to make a single 8-inch tart in a tart ring. For a tart of this size, you’ll need to double the cooking time.
Pâte Sucrée
Caramelized Pears
2 Bosc pears, peeled, halved, and cored
1½ teaspoons unsalted butter
1 tablespoon sugar
Filling
½ cup plus 1 tablespoon (4½ ounces) natural
(without gelatin) cream cheese at room temperature
½ cup plus 1 tablespoon (4½ ounces) fresh mild goat cheese without a rind, at room temperature
1 cup sour cream
½ cup sugar
2 eggs
Juice of ½ lemon
6 tablespoons sugar
Garnish
1 cup crème anglaise
6 strawberries, quartered
24 fresh mint leaves
PREHEAT THE OVEN to 350°. Remove the dough from the refrigerator and let sit for 5 minutes, or until the dough gives to a light pressure. On a lightly floured board, roll the dough out to a ¼-inch thickness. Cut into six 4-inch rounds. Transfer the rounds to a baking sheet lined with parchment paper and, using a fork, pierce the dough all over so it will not rise when baked. Refrigerate for 15 minutes. Bake for about 10 minutes, or until light brown.
TO MAKE THE PEARS, cut them lengthwise into ¼-inch-thick slices. In a large sauté pan or skillet, melt the butter over high heat. Add the sugar and cook until it starts to caramelize, then add the pear slices and sauté until the pears are golden brown. Transfer the pears to a rimmed baking sheet pan and refrigerate.
TO MAKE THE FILLING, combine all the ingredients in a medium bowl and beat with an electric mixer just until smooth. (Don’t beat longer, because you don’t want to add air to the filling.)
TO PREPARE THE TARTS, preheat the oven to 250°. Line a baking sheet pan with parchment paper. Tear 6 pieces of aluminum foil into 5-inch squares. Put six 4-inch-diameter by 1-inch-tall pastry rings on the foil and press the foil up around the outside of the ring to keep the cheesecake mixture inside the ring. Arrange the rings on the sheet. Put a baked pastry round in each ring. Arrange one sixth of the caramelized pears in a single layer on each round; don’t overlap them. Pour the cheese mixture over the pears to the top of the ring. Bake until barely set, 30 to 40 minutes (the filling should jiggle slightly but not be browned or cracking). Let cool to room temperature, then refrigerate for at least 2 hours or up to 1 day.
Remove the pastry rings and foil by running a small knife around the inside of each ring, then gently lift the ring off. Evenly sprinkle each tart with 1 tablespoon of sugar just before caramelizing. Using a hand-held blowtorch, evenly caramelize the sugar, keeping the blowtorch moving and about 3 inches above the tart (do only one tart at a time, or the sugar will liquefy while waiting on the custard). Repeat with the remaining tarts. Or, sprinkle the sugar on 1 tart and place it on a baking sheet pan small enough to rotate under the broiler. Place the sheet under a preheated broiler 2 inches from the heat source and broil, rotating as necessary, until the sugar melts and evenly caramelizes. Repeat with the remaining tarts.
TO SERVE, place 1 tart in the center of each of 6 plates. Surround each tart with a ring of crème anglaise. Arrange 4 strawberry pieces around each tart and a mint leaf between each strawberry.
Chocolate Bread Pudding with Sun-Dried Cherries and Crème Fraîche
Makes 6 individual puddings or 1 large pudding
This dish shows up on our menu almost every winter, and we think it’s the perfect way to end a meal on a cold night. When the first order of the evening is brought to the table, the aroma of warm chocolate fills the dining room, and everyone starts looking around to see where it’s coming from. Within a few minutes, we usually sell several more orders. We serve the pudding in individual soufflé dishes, but you can also make it in a large dish and serve it family-style, passing the crème fraiche in a bowl on the side.
½ cup sun-dried cherries
⅓ cup Cognac
8 ounces bittersweet chocolate, chopped
3 eggs
1 cup heavy cream
½ cup sour cream
½ cup sugar
⅛ teaspoon ground cinnamon
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
3 cups ½-inch-cubed sourdough bâtard without crusts, dried overnight
Garnish
1 cup crème fraîche or sour cream
1 tablespoon confectioners’ sugar, sifted
6 fresh mint sprigs
COMBINE THE CHERRIES AND COGNAC and soak for at least 2 hours, or preferably overnight.
Melt the chocolate in a double boiler over barely simmering water (don’t let the water touch the bottom of the bowl or the chocolate will get too hot). Remove from the heat and let the chocolate stand over the warm water until ready to use.
In a large bowl, whisk together the eggs, cream, sour cream, sugar, cinnamon, and vanilla extract. Quickly whisk in the melted chocolate. If the chocolate does not completely melt, place the bowl back over the hot water and whisk gently until the chocolate is completely incorporated. Fold in the bread cubes, cherries, and Cognac. Let sit in a warm place until the bread absorbs the custard, 1 to 2 hours. To test, break a bread cube in half; there should be no white showing. Spoon the mixture into six 10-ounce soufflé dishes or one 8-cup dish. Clean the edges well with a damp towel to remove any chocolate drips.
Preheat the oven to 350°. Put the dish(es) in a roasting pan. Slide the middle rack partially out of the oven, and place the pan on the rack. Pour boiling water into the pan to a depth of about 1 inch, making sure none of the water comes over the sides and into the dishes. Very carefully slide the rack back into the oven. Bake for 35 to 40 minutes, or until the puddings are puffed and set to the touch. Remove the dishes from the water and let cool slightly if serving immediately; let cool completely to serve later.
TO SERVE, if necessary, cover each cooled pudding with a square of aluminum foil and reheat in a preheated 350º oven for 6 to 8 minutes. To test, stick a small knife into the center of a pudding for 30 seconds, then remove it and feel the blade; if it’s not warm, keep the puddings in the oven a little longer. Whisk the confectioners’ sugar into the crème fraîche or sour cream. Put a large dollop on top of each of the puddings and garnish with a sprig of mint.
To Melt Chocolate
CUT OR BREAK THE CHOCOLATE INTO SMALL PIECES. SET A HEATPROOF BOWL OVER A POT OF BARELY SIMMERING WATER, AND PLACE CHOCOLATE IN THE BOWL. DON’T LET THE WATER TOUCH THE BOTTOM OF THE BOWL, OR THE CHOCOLATE WILL GET TOO HOT, AND DON’T LET THE WATER BOIL, BECAUSE STEAM OR WATER MIGHT GET INTO IT, GIVING IT A GRITTY TEXTURE. IF THIS HAPPENS, THERE IS NO WAY TO FIX THE CHOCOLATE; FOR SOME BAKED DISHES, YOU CAN STILL USE IT, BUT FOR ICE CREAM OR TRUFFLES, YOU’LL NEED TO START AGAIN WITH FRESH CHOCOLATE.
Mixed Berry Shortcake with Caramel Sauce
Serves 4
These are old-fashioned, biscuit-style shortcakes with a rich, creamy flavor and lovely crumbly texture. Strawberries are, of course, the traditional filling choice, but any combination of ripe, flavorful berries is wonderful served this way, as are peaches, apricots, or nectarines. For a refreshing change of pace, try using vanilla bean ice cream instead of whipped cream.
Shortcake
1 cup pastry flour
3 tablespoons sugar
1½ teaspoons baking powder
Pinch of salt
4½ tablespoons cold unsalted butter, cut into small cubes
6 to 8 tabl
espoons heavy cream, plus 2 teaspoons for brushing
½ teaspoon vanilla extract
Fruit Compote
4 cups mixed fresh berries, hulled strawberries, raspberries, or blackberries
¼ cup sugar
1 teaspoon freshly squeezed lemon juice
1 cup heavy cream
¼ cup vanilla sugar
½ cup crème frâiche or sour cream
1 tablespoon powdered sugar
½ cup warm caramel sauce
TO MAKE THE SHORTCAKES, combine the pastry flour, sugar, baking powder, and salt in a heavy-duty mixer fitted with the paddle attachment and blend together on low speed. Add the butter and mix until crumbly. Combine 6 tablespoons of the cream with the vanilla, add it to the flour mixture, and mix until the dough just comes together; if necessary, add up to 2 more tablespoons cream and mix just for a second. (Depending on the temperature of the kitchen and the ingredients, the flour will absorb more or less of the cream.)
OR, TO MIX BY HAND, combine the dry ingredients on a work surface. Add the butter and toss to coat with the flour mixture. Using your fingers, a pastry blender, or 2 knives, cut the butter and flour mixture until crumbly. (Work quickly if using your fingers, so the heat of your hands doesn’t melt the butter.) Make a well in the center of the mixture and add the liquid ingredients. Carefully begin drawing in the flour mixture from the sides, taking care not to let the cream run out, and stir gently until the liquid is absorbed. Do not knead the dough; it should be slightly crumbly.