Lonely Planet Indonesia
Page 48
It enjoys cool mountain air at night, so air-con isn't necessary, and with your windows open, you'll hear the symphony of sounds off the rice fields and river valleys.
Central Ubud
Happy Mango TreeHOSTEL$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0812 3844 5498; www.thehappymangotree.com; Jl Bisma 27; dm/d from 100,000/250,000Rp; W)
This bright and bubbly hostel revels in its hippie vibe. Bright colours abound inside the rooms and out on the various terraces, some of which have rice-field views. Mixed dorms have four or five beds; doubles come with names (and matching decor) such as Love Shack and Ceiling Museum. There's a social bar and a restaurant, too.
Han Snel Siti BungalowsGUESTHOUSE$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-975699; www.sitibungalow.com; Jl Kajeng 3; r incl breakfast with fan/air-con from 250,000/350,000Rp; aWs)
Owned by the family of the late Han Snel, a well-known Dutch painter, Siti Bungalows is one of Ubud's original guesthouses. While its standards have slipped, it remains excellent value and a wonderful choice for those seeking somewhere with character, a delightful garden and spacious bungalows – some of which overlook the river gorge.
d'Rompok HouseGUESTHOUSE$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0353-344837; drompokhouse@yahoo.com; Jl Hanoman 39; r incl breakfast 250,000Rp; aW)
Tucked down a tight gang, the well-priced d'Rompok is more suave than your usual homestay, with large modern rooms decorated with contemporary art. Go for one of the top-floor rooms with views of the rice fields.
Eka's HomestayHOMESTAY$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-970550; eka_sutawan@yahoo.com; Jl Sriwedari 8; s/d incl breakfast 200,000/250,000Rp; W)
Follow your ears to this nice little family compound with seven basic rooms. Eka's is the home of Wayan Pasek Sucipta, a teacher of Balinese music. It's in a nice sunny spot on a quiet road (well, except during practice times).
BiangsHOMESTAY$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-976520; wah_oeboed@yahoo.com; Jl Sukma 28; s/d with fan 100,000/200,000Rp, r with air-con 300,000Rp; aW)
In a little garden, Biangs (meaning 'mama') homestay has six well-maintained rooms, with hot water. The friendly family makes it feel like a genuine homestay, and its residential street has a local feel.
Nirvana PensionGUESTHOUSE$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-975415; www.nirvanaku.com; Jl Goutama 10; s/d/tr with fan 250,000/350,000/500,000Rp, s/d with air-con 350,000/450,000Rp; aW)
Nirvana has alang-alang (thatched roofs), a plethora of paintings, ornate doorways and six rooms with modern bathrooms, all set in a shady, secluded locale next to a large family temple. Batik courses are also held here. It's a great location, back off trendy Goutama.
oOka Wati HotelHOTEL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-973386; www.okawatihotel.com; off Monkey Forest Rd; r incl breakfast US$65-115; aWs)
Owner Oka Wati is a lovely lady who grew up near the Ubud Palace. Go for a room in the old wing, where the decor features vintage detail and some rooms have views over a small rice field and river valley. Rooms have large verandahs, where the delightful staff will deliver your choice of breakfast (don't miss the house-made yoghurt).
Tegal SariHOTEL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-973318; www.tegalsari-ubud.com; Jl Raya Pengosekan; r 330,000-990,000Rp; aiWs)
Though literally a stone's throw from the hectic main road, here rice fields (along with ducks) miraculously materialize. Go for a superdeluxe cottage (770,000Rp) with bathtub looking out to wonderful bucolic views. Units in the new brick buildings, on the other hand, are stark. It has two pools, including one on the rooftop, and a yoga space.
ShiftDESIGN HOTEL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.theshifthotelbali.com; Jl Raya Penestanan Kelod; r incl breakfast US$49-79; aW)
Set in an old renovated apartment, this hipster, vegan hotel has your classic motel configuration but with plenty of rock-and-roll panache. The modern rooms are comfortable and include minibars and fibre-optic wi-fi. The rooftop deck has sunloungers, a restaurant, a single-origin speciality cafe, a raw vegan sushi bar and a yoga space that's also used for movies and dance parties.
Puri Saren AgungGUESTHOUSE$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-975057; Jl Suweta 1; r US$75; a)
Part of the Ubud royal family's historic palace, three rooms are tucked behind the courtyard where the dance performances are held. Accommodation is in traditional Balinese pavilions, with big verandahs, four-poster beds, antique furnishings and hot water. Give a royal wave to wandering tourists from your patio.
Sambahan & Sakti
Going north from Jl Raya Ubud, you are soon in rolling terraces of rice fields. Tucked away here you'll find interesting and often luxurious hotels, and you can have a beautiful walk to the centre.
Bali Asli LodgeHOMESTAY$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-970537; www.baliaslilodge.com; Jl Suweta; r incl breakfast 300,000Rp; W)
Escape the central Ubud hubbub here. Made is your friendly host, and her four rooms are in traditional Balinese stone-and-brick houses set on verdant gardens. There are terraces where you can let the hours pass; interiors are clean and comfy. Town is a 15-minute walk.
Ketut's PlaceGUESTHOUSE$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-975304; www.ketutsplace.com; Jl Suweta 40; r incl breakfast with fan 500,000Rp, with air-con 600,000Rp; aiWs)
A step up from the usual temple compound homestays, here the rooms all have artful accents and river-valley views. A dramatic pool shimmers down the hillside. Rooms range from basic with fans to deluxe versions with air-con and bathtubs.
Ubud Sari Health ResortGUESTHOUSE$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-974393; www.ubudsari.com; Jl Kajeng; r/villa from US$50/60; aWs)
Overlooking a bubbling stream and surrounded by forest, the 21 rooms at this noted health spa have a name that says it all: Zen Village. The plants in the gardens are labelled for their medicinal qualities, and the cafe serves organic, vegetarian fare. Guests can use the health facilities, including the sauna and whirlpool.
Wapa di UmeRESORT$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-973178; www.wapadiumeubud.com; Jl Suweta; r incl breakfast & activities from US$280, villas from US$417; aiWs)
Located a gentle 2.5km uphill from the centre, this elegant compound enjoys engrossing verdant views across rice fields. New and old styles mix in the 33 large units; go for a villa with a view. Service is superb yet relaxed. Listening to gamelan practice echoing across the fields at night is quite magical. There's a shuttle bus on the hour to central Ubud.
Nyuhkuning
A popular area just south of the Monkey Forest, Nyuhkuning has some creative guesthouses and hotels, yet is not a long walk to the centre.
Swasti Eco CottagesGUESTHOUSE$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-974079; www.baliswasti.com; Jl Nyuh Bulan; r incl breakfast with fan/air-con from 650,000/750,000Rp; aiWs)
A five-minute walk from the south entrance to the Monkey Forest, this guesthouse and bungalow compound has large grounds that feature an organic garden (produce is used in the cafe). Some of the rooms are in simple two-storey blocks; others are in vintage traditional houses brought here from across Bali. Swasti also offers a mix of Balinese classes and workshops.
Alam IndahHOTEL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-974629; www.alamindahbali.com; Jl Nyuh Bulan; r incl breakfast US$65-135; aWs)
Just south of the Monkey Forest, this isolated and spacious resort has 16 rooms that are beautifully finished in natural materials to traditional designs. The Wos Valley views are entrancing, especially from the multilevel pool area. There's a free shuttle into central Ubud.
Campuan & Sanggingan
The long sloping road that takes its names from these two communities has a number of upscale properties on its east side that overlook a lush river valley.
Hotel TjampuhanHOTEL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-975368; www.tjampuhan-bali.com; Jl Raya Campuan; r incl breakfast US$95-180; aiWs)
This venerable 69-ro
om place overlooks the confluence of Sungai Wos (Wos River) and Campuan. The influential German artist Walter Spies lived here in the 1930s, and his former home, which sleeps four people, is part of the hotel. Bungalow-style units spill down the hill and enjoy mesmerising valley and temple views.
oWarwick Ibah Luxury VillasHOTEL$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-974466; www.warwickibah.com; off Jl Raya Campuan; ste/villa incl breakfast from US$255/440; aWs)
Overlooking the rushing waters and rice-clad hills of the Wos Valley, the Ibah offers refined luxury in spacious, stylish individual suites and villas that combine ancient and modern details. Each could be a feature in an interior-design magazine. The swimming pool is set into the hillside amid gardens and lavish stone carvings.
Penestanan
Just west of the Campuan bridge, steep Jl Raya Penestanan branches off to the left and climbs up and around to Penestanan, a large plateau of rice fields and lodgings.
oSantra PutraGUESTHOUSE$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-977810; wayankarja@gmail.com; off Jl Raya Campuan; r incl breakfast 300,000-400,000Rp; W)
Run by internationally exhibited abstract artist I Wayan Karja (whose studio-gallery is also on-site), this place has 11 big, open, airy rooms with hot water. Enjoy paddy-field views from all vantage points. Painting and drawing classes are offered by the artist.
Villa NirvanaBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-979419; www.villanirvanabali.com; Penestanan; r incl breakfast US$120-250; aWs)
You may find nirvana reaching Villa Nirvana: access is along a 150m path through a small river valley from the west or along a rice-field path from the top of steep steps from the east. The eight-room compound, designed by local architect Awan Sukhro Edhi, is a serene retreat. Rates include shuttle service and free loan of a mobile phone.
Sayan & Ayung Valley
Two kilometres west of Ubud, the fast-flowing Sungai Ayung (Ayung River) has carved out a deep valley, its sides sculpted into terraced paddy fields or draped in thick rainforest. Overlooking this verdant valley are some of Bali's best hotels.
oBambu IndahBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-975124; www.bambuindah.com; Banjar Baung; s/d incl breakfast US$110/150; Ws)
Famed expat entrepreneur John Hardy sold his jewellery company in 2007 and became a hotelier. On a ridge near Sayan and his beloved Sungai Ayung, he's assembled a compound of 100-year-old royal Javanese houses and a stunning Sumbanese thatched house; each space is furnished with style and flair. Several outbuildings create a timeless village with underpinnings of luxury. Free shuttle into central Ubud.
Sayan TerraceHOTEL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-974384; www.sayanterraceresort.com; Jl Raya Sayan; r/villa incl breakfast from US$100/175; aiWs)
Gaze into the Sayan Valley from this venerable, but slightly dated, hotel and you'll understand why this was the site of composer Colin McPhee's book A House in Bali. Stay here while your neighbours housed in luxury resorts pay far more. The 12 rooms and villas are simply decorated but are large and have that view. Rates include afternoon tea.
Mandapa Ritz CarltonVILLA$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-4792777; www.ritzcarlton.com; Jl Kedewatan; ste/villa incl breakfast & activities from US$575/870; aW)
Epic doesn't even begin to describe the extent to which this stunning resort soars. Sprawling over 5.5 hectares, it's the size of a small village, and set in a spectacular valley enclosed by rice fields. The stars of the show are the villas on the riverfront, but you can't go wrong in any of the villas or suites.
Kubu restaurant is worth a visit even if you're not staying here, both for its scenic riverfront location and its five-course degustation menu.
AmandariHOTEL$$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-975333; www.amanresorts.com; Sayan; ste incl breakfast from US$950; aiWs)
In Kedewatan village, the storied Amandari does everything with the charm and grace of a classical Balinese dancer. Superb views over the jungle and down to the river – the 30m green-tiled swimming pool seems to drop right over the edge – are just some of the inducements. The 30 private pavilions may prove inescapable.
Peliatan
Located 3km east of Ubud Palace, the Peliatan area has a relaxed rural feel, sans traffic jams and tourists.
oMaya UbudHOTEL$$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-977888; www.mayaubud.com; Jl Gunung Sari Peliatan; r/villa incl breakfast & activities from US$330/545; aiWs)
One of the most beautiful large hotels around Ubud, this massive 10-hectare property is superbly integrated into its surrounding river valley and rice fields. The 108 rooms and villas have the sort of open and light feeling combined with traditional materials that defines the concept of 'Bali style'. The infinity pool overlooking the jungle is wonderful, as is its spa complex.
5Eating
Ubud's cafes and restaurants are some of the best in Bali. Local and expat chefs produce a bounty of authentic Balinese dishes, as well as inventive Asian and international cuisines. It's also known for its organic and vegetarian fare. (Click here)
Central Ubud
Warung Ibu OkaBALINESE$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Suweta; mains from 50,000Rp; h11am-7pm)
Opposite Ubud Palace, lunchtime crowds are waiting for one thing: Balinese-style roast babi guling (suckling pig). Order a spesial to get the best cut.
Tutmak CafeCAFE$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-975754; www.tutmak.com; Jl Dewi Sita; mains 30,000-90,000Rp; h8am-11pm; W)
This smart, breezy multilevel terrace restaurant is a popular place for a refreshing drink or something to munch on from the menu of Indo classics. The nasi campur with fresh tuna is one of Ubud's finest.
Gelato SecretsGELATERIA$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.gelatosecrets.com; Jl Raya Ubud; from 25,000Rp; h10.30am-11pm)
On Ubud's main drag, this temple to frozen goodness has fresh flavours made from local fruits and spices, such as dragonfruit cinnamon or cashew black sesame. It also has a branch on Monkey Forest Road ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.gelatosecrets.com; Monkey Forest Rd; h10am-10.30pm).
oWaroeng BernadetteINDONESIAN$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0821-4742 4779; Jl Goutama; mains from 60,000Rp; h11am-11pm; W)
It's not called the 'Home of Rendang' for nothing. The west Sumatran classic dish of long-marinated meats (beef is the true classic, but here there's also a veggie jackfruit variety) is pulled off with colour and flair. Other dishes have a zesty zing missing from lacklustre versions served elsewhere. The elevated dining room is a vision of kitsch.
Hujon LocaleINDONESIAN$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-849 3092; www.hujanlocale.com; Jl Sriwedari 5; mains 110,000-200,000Rp; hnoon-10pm; W)
From the team of the critically acclaimed Mama San in Seminyak, Hujon Locale is one of Ubud's finest restaurants. The menu mixes traditional Indonesian dishes with modern, creative flair, from Sulawesi salt-baked barramundi, Achenese prawn curry to slow-braised Sumatran lamb curry. The setting within a chic colonial-style two-storey bungalow is made for a balmy evening.
WatercressCAFE$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.watercressubud.com; Monkey Forest Rd; mains 90,000-150,000Rp; h7.30am-11pm; W)
Riding on the success of the hip Canggu cafe, the Ubud version attracts a young fashionable crowd for quality Western food. It has a stylish double-level open-air setting, does creative all-day breakfasts, and offers a menu leaning towards Modern Australian: fresh salads, awesome fish burgers with crispy chat potatoes, king prawn linguine and charred lamp chops.
Siti's Warung Little IndiaINDIAN$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0819 9962 4555; Jl Sukma 36; mains from 45,000Rp; h10am-10pm)
Run by the delightful Siti, this character-filled Indian restaurant is decked out in vintage Bollywood posters and accompanied by a soundtrack of Hindi pop. Its thalis, samosas and masala chai are all delicious and authentic. Also delivers tiffins.
Fair Warung BaléINTERNATIONAL$$
( MAP
GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-975370; www.fairfuturefoundation.org; Jl Sriwedari 6; mains 45,000-75,000Rp; h11am-10pm)S
Mellow by day, hotspot by night; there are often queues in the evenings to get a table at this attractive upstairs restaurant. It's run by a Swiss-based NGO and 100% of proceeds go to healthcare in the local community. Food ranges from local curries to freshly baked baguettes with tuna tartare.
Three MonkeysFUSION$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.threemonkeyscafebali.com; Monkey Forest Rd; meals from 60,000Rp; h8am-10pm; W)
Order a kaffir-lime mojito and settle back amid the frog symphony of the rice fields. Add the glow of tiki torches for a magical effect. By day there are sandwiches, salads and gelato. At night there’s a fusion menu of Asian classics. The staff are very friendly.
Il GiardinoITALIAN$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-974271; www.ilgiardinobali.com; Jl Kajeng; mains 60,000-150,000Rp; h5-10.30pm; W)
This romantic outdoor Italian restaurant has a beautiful setting overlooking a lily pond and the gallery of Dutch painter Han Snel. It does aperitivo, wood-fired pizzas, homemade pastas and hearty Italian mains.