Lonely Planet Indonesia
Page 49
ElementINTERNATIONAL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0821 4419 7198; Jl Penestanan; mains 55,000-105,000Rp; h7am-11pm; W)
A charming little roadside eatery hidden on the backstreets, Element does fresh lunches such as house-smoked ham baguettes or grilled tuna burgers. The locally inspired Kintamani pork belly is popular. Look out for the amusing 'thought for the day' on the chalkboard outside.
oLocavoreFUSION$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-977733; www.restaurantlocavore.com; Jl Dewi Sita; 5-/7-course degustation 475,000/575,000Rp; hnoon-2pm & 6-10pm; aW)
The foodie heaven in Ubud, this temple to locally sourced, ultra-creative foods is the town's toughest table. Book weeks in advance. Meals are degustation and can top out at nine courses; expect this cuisine nirvana to last upwards of three hours. Chefs Eelke Plasmeijer and Ray Adriansyah in the open kitchen are magicians; enjoy the show.
Up the road there is also Locavore to Go ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-977733; Jl Dewi Sita; from 75,000Rp; h8.30am-6pm; W), which is good for brunch, with the likes of breakfast burgers and banh mi.
oMozaicFUSION$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-975768; www.mozaic-bali.com; Jl Raya Sanggingan; 6-course menu 700,000Rp; h6-10pm; W)
Chef Chris Salans oversees this much-lauded top-end restaurant. Fine French fusion cuisine features on a constantly changing seasonal menu that takes its influences from tropical Asia. Dine in an elegant garden or an ornate pavilion. Choose from four tasting menus, one of which is a surprise.
HEALTHY & ORGANIC UBUD
With its beautiful surrounds, fresh climate and being a champion of the arts, Ubud has long been a place travellers come to nourish the soul. As a current hotspot for yoga, meditation and organic healthy living, it’s also the place for all things vegetarian, vegan, raw food and detox.
The Ubud Organic Market (www.ubudorganicmarket.com; h9am-1pm Wed & Sat) operates twice a week: Wednesdays at Warung Sopa and Saturdays at Pizza Bagus. Bali Buda's BudaMart ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.balibuda.com; Jl Raya Ubud; h8am-8pm) is a good source for organic, seasonal produce.
Raw Food Bali (www.rawfoodbali.com) is an excellent resource for everything healthy and organic in Ubud and beyond.
Sari OrganikHEALTH FOOD$
(Warung Bodag Maliah; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-972087; Subak Sok Wayah; meals from 38,000Rp; h8am-8pm)S
In a beautiful location on a plateau overlooking rice terraces and river valleys, this attractive cafe is in the middle of a big organic farm. The food's healthy and the drinks are cool and refreshing. The walk through the rice fields means half the fun is getting here.
Warung SopaVEGETARIAN$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-276 5897; Jl Sugriwa 36; mains 30,000-60,000Rp; h8am-9.30pm; Wv)
This popular open-air place in a residential street captures the Ubud vibe with creative and (more importantly) tasty vegetarian fare with a Balinese twist. Look for specials of the day on display; the ever-changing nasi campur is a treat.
Bali BudaCAFE$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-976324; www.balibuda.com; Jl Jembawan 1; meals from 30,000Rp; h7.30am-10pm; v)
This breezy upper-floor place offers a full range of vegetarian jamu (health tonics), salads, sandwiches, savoury crepes, pizzas and gelato. The bulletin board downstairs is packed with idiosyncratic Ubud notices.
Earth Cafe & MarketVEGETARIAN$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.dtebali.com/earth-cafe-market-ubud; Jl Gotama Selatan; meals from 30,000Rp; Wv)
'Eliminate Free Radicals' is but one of many healthy drinks at this hard-core outpost for vegetarian organic dining and drinking. The seemingly endless menu has a plethora of soups, salads and platters that are heavy on Med flavours. There's a market on the main floor.
AlchemyVEGAN$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-971981; www.alchemybali.com; Jl Raya Penestanan 75; mains from 50,000Rp; h7am-9pm; Wv)
A prototypical 100% vegan Ubud restaurant, Alchemy features a vast customised salad menu as well as cashew-milk drinks, durian smoothies, ice cream, fennel juice and a lot more. The raw-chocolate desserts are addictive.
Juice Ja CafeCAFE$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-971056; Jl Dewi Sita; mains from 30,000Rp; h8am-10pm; W)S
Glass of spirulina? Dash of wheat grass with your papaya juice? Organic fruits and vegetables go into the food at this funky bakery-cafe. Little brochures explain the provenance of items such as the organic cashew nuts. Enjoy the patio.
Yellow Flower CafeINDONESIAN$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-889 9865; off Jl Raya Campuan; mains from 30,000Rp; h8am-9pm; W)
New Age Indonesian right up in Penestanan along a little path through the rice fields. Organic mains such as nasi campur or rice pancakes are good; snackers will delight in the decent coffees, cakes and smoothies. From 5.30pm Sunday evenings there's an excellent Balinese buffet (99,000Rp).
9 WarungVEGETARIAN$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0817 776 768; Jl Lodtunduh; per item 3000Rp; h10.30am-9.30pm; v)
A unique self-service system where customers serve themselves vegetarian and vegan dishes (3000Rp per spoonful), wash their own dishes and calculate the bill before paying using a trust system.
ElephantVEGETARIAN$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-716 1907; www.elephantbali.com; Jl Raya Sanggingan; mains 60,000-150,000Rp; h8am-9.30pm; Wv)
High-concept vegetarian dining with gorgeous views across the Sungai Cerik valley. Foods are well seasoned, interesting and topped off with an especially good dessert menu.
6Drinking & Nightlife
No one comes to Ubud for wild nightlife. A few bars get lively around sunset and later in the night, but the venues often close by 11pm.
oCoffee Studio SenimanCAFE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-972085; www.senimancoffee.com; Jl Sriwedari; coffee 30,000Rp; h8am-10pm; aW)
That 'coffee studio' moniker isn't for show; all the equipment is on display at this temple of single-origin coffee. Take a seat on the designer rocker chairs and choose from an array of pourovers, siphon, Aeropress or espresso using a range of quality Indonesian beans. It's also popular for food (mains from 40,000Rp) and drinks in the evening.
CP LoungeBAR, CLUB
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %361 978 954; www.cp-lounge.com; Monkey Forest Rd; h11am-4am)
Open till early morning, CP is the place to kick on once everything else has closed. It has garden seating, live bands and a club with DJ and sound system.
Melting PotSPORTS BAR
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0858 5748 0230; www.meltingpotbali.com; Jl Raya Pengosekan 22; h11am-2am)
While a sports bar may seem at odds with artsy Ubud, this Texan-run pool hall does a good job of catering to expat needs with live AFL, NRL, Premier League and American sports. It attracts a diverse crowd through its quality diner food (awesome cheeseburgers), pool tables and rock and roll.
3Entertainment
Few travel experiences are more magical than attending a Balinese dance performance, especially while in Ubud.
In a week in Ubud you can see Kecak, Legong and Barong dances, wayang kulit shadow puppets, gamelan orchestras and more.
Fabulous Ubud has performance information and sells tickets (usually 80,000Rp). For performances outside Ubud, transport is often included in the price. Tickets are also sold at the venues and by street vendors who hang around outside Ubud Palace; all tickets cost the same price.
Ubud PalaceDANCE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Raya Ubud)
Performances are held here almost nightly against a beautiful backdrop.
Pura Dalem UbudDANCE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Raya Ubud)
At the west end of Jl Raya Ubud, this open-air venue has a flame-lit carved-stone backdrop and is one of the most evocative places to see a dance performance.
Pura Taman SaraswatiDANCE
(Ubud Water Palace; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Raya Ubud)
The beauty of the setting may distract you from the dancers, although at night you can’t see the lily pads and lotus
flowers that are such an attraction by day.
Arma Open StageDANCE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-976659; Jl Raya Pengosekan)
Has among the best troupes performing Kecak and Legong dance.
Oka KartiniPERFORMING ARTS
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-975193; Jl Raya Ubud; adult/child 100,000/50,000Rp; h8pm Wed, Fri & Sun)
Regular shadow-puppet shows are held at Oka Kartini, which also has an art gallery.
DON'T MISS
BALINESE DANCE
Dance and musical performances are the result of an ever-evolving culture with a legacy that's centuries long. Rigid choreography and discipline are hallmarks of beautiful, melodic Balinese dance, a performance of which no visitor should miss.
Kecak
Probably the best-known dance. With its spellbinding, hair-raising atmosphere, the Kecak features a 'choir' of men and boys who sit in concentric circles and slip into a trance as they chant and sing 'chak-a-chak-a-chak', imitating a troupe of monkeys. Sometimes called the 'vocal gamelan', this is the only music to accompany the dance re-enactment from the Hindu epic Ramayana, the familiar love story about Prince Rama and his Princess Sita.
Barong & Rangda
The Barong is a good but mischievous and fun-loving shaggy dog-lion, with huge eyes and a mouth that clacks away to much dramatic effect. Because this character is the protector of a village, the actors playing the Barong (who are utterly lost under layers of fur-clad costume) will emote a variety of winsome antics.
Meanwhile, the widow-witch Rangda is bad through and through. The Queen of Black Magic, the character's monstrous persona can include flames shooting out her ears, a tongue dripping with fire, a mane of wild hair and large breasts.
The story features a duel between the Rangda and the Barong, whose supporters draw their kris (traditional dagger) and rush in to help. The long-tongued, sharp-fanged Rangda throws them into a trance, making them stab themselves. It's quite a spectacle. Thankfully, the Barong casts a spell that neutralises the kris power so it cannot harm them.
Legong
Characterised by flashing eyes and quivering hands, this most graceful of Balinese dances is performed by young girls. Their talent is so revered that in old age, a classic dancer will be remembered as a 'great Legong'.
Peliatan's famous dance troupe, Gunung Sari, often seen in Ubud, is particularly noted for its Legong Keraton (Legong of the Palace). The very stylised and symbolic story involves two Legong dancing in mirror image. They are elaborately made up and dressed in gold brocade, relating a story about a king who takes a maiden captive and consequently starts a war, in which he dies.
7Shopping
Ubud has myriad art shops, boutiques and galleries. Many offer clever and unique items made in and around the area. It's the ideal base for exploring the enormous number of craft galleries, studios and workshops in villages north and south. For indie boutiques, your best bet is Jl Hanoman and Jl Dewi Sita.
oThreads of Life Indonesian Textile Arts CenterTEXTILES
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-972187; www.threadsoflife.com; Jl Kajeng 24; h10am-7pm)
This small, professional textile gallery and shop sponsors the production of naturally dyed, handmade ritual textiles from around Indonesia. It exists to help recover skills in danger of being lost to modern dyeing and weaving methods. Commissioned pieces are displayed in the gallery, which has good explanatory material. Also runs regular textile appreciation courses.
oRio Helmi Gallery & CafeARTS
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-978773; www.riohelmi.com; Jl Suweta 06B; h7am-7pm)
Noted photographer and Ubud resident Rio Helmi has a small commercial gallery where you can admire or purchase examples of his journalistic and artistic work.
KevalaCERAMICS
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.kevalaceramics.com; Jl Dewi Sita; h9am-7.30pm)
Fitting right in along this boutiquey strip, Kevala is famous for its handmade and handpainted contemporary ceramic designs and homewares.
Ubud MarketSOUVENIRS
(Pasar Seni; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Raya Ubud; h7am-8pm)
The large Ubud Market is your one-stop shop for kitschy souvenirs, clothing and presents for back home. It's inside a large complex; stallholders set up across several buildings, and also along Jl Karna.
Ganesha BookshopBOOKS
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.ganeshabooksbali.com; Jl Raya Ubud; h9am-8pm)
A quality bookshop with an excellent selection of titles on Indonesian studies, travel, arts, music, fiction (including used books) and maps. Good staff recommendations.
KouBEAUTY
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-971905; Jl Dewi Sita; h9am-8pm)
The perfume of luxurious locally handmade organic soaps wafts as you enter. Put some in your undies drawer and it'll smell fine for weeks. The range is unlike that found in chain stores selling luxe soap. It also operates Kou Cuisine ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-972319; Monkey Forest Rd; h10am-8pm), which specialises in homemade jams.
AshitabaHOMEWARES
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-464922; Jl Hanoman; h10am-8pm)
Tenganan, the Aga village of east Bali, is where the beautiful rattan items sold here are produced. Containers, bowls, purses and more (from US$5) display the fine and intricate weaving.
Goddess on the Go!CLOTHING
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-976084; www.goddessonthego.net; Jl Raya Pengosekan; h9am-8pm)
A large selection of ecofriendly women's clothes made to be supercomfortable with modal fibre.
RumbleCLOTHING
(Rmbl; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.xrmblx.co; Jl Raya Campuhan; h9am-10pm)
Owned by the drummer of reputed Balinese punk act Superman is Dead, Rumble stocks a cool selection of locally designed streetwear.
MoariMUSIC
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-977367; Jl Raya Ubud; h10am-8pm)
New and restored Balinese musical instruments are sold here. Splurge on a cute little bamboo flute for 30,000Rp.
8Information
Along the main roads you’ll find most services you need, including lots of ATMs.
oFabulous UbudTOURIST INFORMATION
(Yaysan Bina Wisata; GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-973285; www.fabulousubud.com; Jl Raya Ubud; h8am-8pm)
Set up by the Ubud royal family, this is the one really useful tourist office in Bali. It has a good range of information and a noticeboard listing current happenings and activities. The staff can answer most regional questions and have up-to-date information on ceremonies and traditional dances held in the area; dance tickets are sold here.
HubudINTERNET
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-978073; www.hubud.org; Monkey Forest Rd; per month from US$60; h24hr Mon-Fri, 9am-midnight Sat & Sun; iW)
One for the digital nomads, this co-working space and digital hub has ultrafast web connections, developer seminars and much more. Take in rice-field views as you create a billion-dollar app.
8Getting There & Away
Bemo
Ubud is on two bemo routes. Bemos travel to Gianyar (10,000Rp) and Batubulan terminal in Denpasar (13,000Rp). Ubud doesn't have a bemo terminal; there are bemo stops on Jl Suweta near the market in the centre of town.
Tourist Shuttle Bus
Perama ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-973316; www.peramatours.com; Jl Raya Pengosekan; h9am-9pm) is the major tourist-shuttle operator. Destinations include Kuta (60,000Rp, two hours), Sanur (50,000Rp, one hour), Padangbai (75,000Rp, two hours), Lovina (125,000Rp, three hours) and Amed (175,000Rp, 3½ hours).
8Getting Around
To/From the Airport
Taxis with the cartel from the airport to Ubud cost 300,000Rp. A car with driver to the airport will cost around 250,000Rp. The Perama shuttle leaves Ubud three times a day (60,000Rp, two hours).
Bicycle
Shops renting bikes have their cycles on display along the main roads. Ubud Scooter Rental is a good, central bet.
Car & Motorcycle
With numerous nearby attractions, many of which are difficult to reach by bemo,
renting a vehicle is sensible.
Ubud Scooter RentalBICYCLE RENTAL
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-972170; www.ubudbikerental.com; Jl Raya Ubud; bicycle/motorbike per day 25,000Rp/50,000Rp; h9am-5pm)
A reputable operator renting bicycles, scooters and motorbikes.
Taxi
There are no metered taxis based in Ubud; those that are honking their horns at you have usually dropped off passengers from southern Bali in Ubud and are hoping for a fare back. Instead you'll use one of the ubiquitous drivers with private vehicles hanging around on the streets hectoring passer-by (the better drivers politely hold up signs that say 'transport').
Most of the drivers charge very fairly; a few – often from out of the area – not so much. If you find a driver you like, get their number and call them for rides during your stay. From central Ubud to, say, Sanggingan should cost about 50,000Rp, which is rather steep. A ride from the palace to the end of Jl Hanoman should cost about 30,000Rp.
It's easy to get a ride on the back of a motorbike; rates are half those of cars.