The Makeup Artist Handbook
Page 36
Value
Refers to the tone (tonal value) which is the degree of lightness or darkness of a color, as it appears on object.
White
The presence of all colors in the light.
Working Out of Your Kit
An expression used by Makeup Artists to refer to the products that they will be using from their own makeup kit.
Wrap
Term called by the assistant director at completion of the day's filming.
Professional Library
Books
Alex Box, by Rankin
Art of Makeup, The, by Kevyn Aucoin
Atlas of Clinical Dermatology, by Anthony du Vivier
Atlas of Clinical Gross Anatomy, by Kenneth P. Moses, John C. Banks, Pedro B. Nava, and Darrell Peterson
Atlas of Pathophysiology, published by Lippincott, Williams & Wilkins
Beauty of Color, The, by Iman
Bloom Book, by Li Edelkoort and LisaWhite
Body Painting: Masterpieces, by Joanne Gair and Heidi Klum
Brown Skin, by Susan C. Taylor
Clinical Dermatology, by Thomas P. Habif
Color Atlas of Forensic Pathology, by Jay Dix
Costuming for Film: The Art and the Craft, by Holly Cole and Kristin Burke
Crew Freelancing 101: A Guide to Building a Career in Film and TV Production, by Gena Seif
Cyclopedia Anatomicae, by György Fehrér and András Szunyoghy
Digital Cinematography, by Paul Wheeler
Don't Go to the Cosmetics Counter without Me, 6th ed., by Paula Begoun
Face Forward, by Kevyn Aucoin
Fashions in Makeup: From Ancient to Modern Times, by Richard Corson
Fine Beauty, by Sam Fine
Forensic Pathology, by David J. Williams, Anthony J. Ansford, David S. Priday, and Alex S. Forrest
Milady's Skin Care and Cosmetics Ingredients Dictionary, by Natalia Michalun and M. Varinia Michalun
Milady's Standard: Fundamentals for Estheticians, by Joel Gerson, Shelley Lotz, and Janet D'Angelo
Serge Lutens, by Serge Lutens
Skin Care Beyond the Basics, by Mark Lees
Stage Makeup, 10th Edition, by Richard Corson
Vintage Face, by Angela Bjork and Daniela Turudich
Magazines
Hollywood Reporter,www.hollywoodreporter.com
Make-Up Artist Magazine, www.makeupmag.com
Make-Up Artist International, www.makeupinternational.eu
Web sites
www.9mmsfx.com
www.a-squirrel.com
www.adacosmetics.com
www.airbrushmakeup.com
www.anatomical.com
www.badgerairbrush.com
www.beautyhabit.com
www.beccacosmetics.com
www.benefitcosmetics.com
www.bennye.com
www.blackminerals.com
www.blincinc.com (lash primer)
www.bluescreen.com
www.bobbibrowncosmetics.com
www.braun.com
www.Brushupwithbarbara.com
www.burmanfoam.com
www.cinemasecrets.com
www.clinique.com
www.cm-beauty.com
www.cosmeticmall.com
www.creativeartistryfx.com
www.dangheno.net
www.Danielamakeup.com
www.dhccare.com
www.dickblick.com
www.dow.com (product information)
www.edwardfrench.com
www.eefx.com
www.eeyelash.com
www.flaxart.com
www.folica.com (brushes, tools, etc.)
www.fxsmith.com (Smith's Prosthetic System)
www.fxsupply.com
www.fxwarehouse.com (products)
www.gaenterprises.net
www.gerdaspillmann.com
www.getspfx.com (adhesive information)
www.greatfacecafe.com
www.gretchendavismakeup.com
www.hakuhodousa.com (brushes)
www.hollynorth.com
www.Ilfordphoto.com
www.imancosmetics.com
www.imdb.com (professional film site for production information, résumés)
www.immune.com (chemical reaction information)
www.indeutsch.com (brushes)
www.japonesque.com
www.jcerilla.com
www.joeblasco.com
www.kanebo.com
www.kd151.com (blood products, effects)
www.kettcosmetics.com
www.kiehls.com
www.lancome-usa.com
www.lauramercier.com
www.loraccosmetics.com
www.maccosmetics.com
www.macpro.com
www.makeupartistschoice.com (brushes)
www.makeupcreations.com (brushes)
www.makeupforever.com
www.makeupmania.com
www.mallatts.com (products)
www.marshallelectronics.com
www.mehron.com
www.michelemulkeyfx.com
www.monsterfx.net
www.monstermakers.com
www.murad.com
www.narcosmetics.com
www.occmakeup.com
www.oshunsupply.com (oils, chemicals, clays, salts, botanicals, etc.)
www.paascheairbrush.com
www.paintandpowderstore.com
www.pauladorf.com
www.paulwheelerbsc.com (HD cameras, crews, technical information)
www.photocrew.com
www.ppi.com
www.prosanity.com
www.psdaimaandsons.com (brushes)
www.realcolorwheel.com
www.reynoldsam.com
www.rdean1028@mac.com
www.rickysnyc.com (beauty supply, NYC)
www.robert@robertrevels.com
www.ronjo.com (products)
www.screamteam.com (masks)
www.screenface.com
www.sculpt.com
www.sephora.com
www.shopofhorrors.com (effects)
www.smooth-on.com
www.solomakeup.com (brushes)
www.stagesupply.com
www.takeupmakeup.co
www.temptu.com
www.topshop.com
www.vwr.com (international chemical supplies)
www.worldwidebeautystore.com
The Pros
Darla Albright
Emmy Award winner and Makeup Artist, Darla Albright, has worked on numerous TV, film, and music industry events. Her credits include the Academy and Emmy Awards, department heading, and working on the hit TV series Scrubs, Justice, That '70s Show, General Hospital, Ghost Whisperer, and The Riches. Her film work includes The Good Girl, starring Jake Gyllenhaal; Dr. Dolittle 2; and working with Tyra Banks on Coyote Ugly. Darla has also toured the world with her personal client, Neil Diamond, for all of his stage, TV, and personal appearances.
Matiki Anoff
Matiki Anoff is a native of Ghana, West Africa, educated in England, and currently resides in New York. After graduating from the University of Arts in London, England, she embarked on a career in fashion and editorial makeup in Europe; working on spreads for Vogue, MariClaire, and Elle magazines.
Matiki moved to New York to pursue her passion, working on feature films. After a few years in the independent film world, she had a chance meeting with director Spike Lee; that meeting led her to her 20-plus years as a makeup artist in film.
Currently, Matiki also designs the HD makeup for the world's leading sopranos for the New York Metropolitan Opera HD Live Performances, which are viewed throughout the world.
Lars Carlsson
Lars Carlsson is the Department Head of the Wig and Makeup Department for Folkteatern Theatre and the owner of the Makeup-FX company in Gothenburg, Sweden. He has been working professionally since 1989. His early career started in amateur theatre and local TV in his hometown of Boras, Sweden. Lars continued with formal training in an apprenticeship at
Gothenburg City Theatre, Gothenburg, Sweden.
Lars continues to freelance as a Makeup Artist, Special Effects Makeup Artist, and Wig Maker with his company, Makeup-FX—all while maintaining his on-staff position at the theatre. His many credits include film, television, print, theatre, and opera, and he is an experienced lecturer and educator.
J.C. Cerilla
J.C. Cerrilla was born and raised in Manila, Philippines. He studied in an art school which eventually introduced him to the world of photography. Fascinated by the craft he made a career out of it. At the age of just 22 years, he was already shooting for magazines such as Cosmopolitan and Playboy in the Philippines.
Not wanting to settle for mediocrity, J.C. moved to New York and was able to assist photographer, Andrea Blanch, a protégé of the legendary photographer, Richard Avedon. J.C. is now doing freelance work and concentrates on commercial beauty and fashion photography.
Richard Dean
Richard Dean has painted some of the most unforgettable faces in the world, including Nicole Kidman, Uma Thurman, Madonna, Eva Mendes, Amber Valletta, Demi Moore, Glenn Close, Diane Lane, Tom Cruise, Michael Douglas, and Bruce Willis. Richard has collaborated with Julia Roberts on 16 movies—from Sleeping with the Enemy and My Best Friend's Wedding through Erin Brockovich, Closer, and, most recently, Charlie Wilson's War. Richard's first movie experience was on the tiny independent film, Union City, starring Deborah Harry. Currently, he is shooting Baby Mama with Tina Fey in New York. With a master's degree from the University of Michigan focused on theatrical design, Richard began doing makeup in the fashion and print arena before moving on to television and then 50-some feature films—among them Desperately Seeking Susan, The Cotton Club, Something Wild, Fatal Attraction, Mona Lisa Smile, and Hitch.
Kenneth Diaz
When Kenny Diaz was young, his father would go all out for Halloween. He would make Kenny and his younger brothers very elaborate costumes. That paved the way for Kenny to make costumes for kids in the neighborhood, and even winning an award for his efforts. Who knew that would lead to an exciting career working extensively as one of the top Makeup Artists in the motion picture industry today? Kenny has two Academy Award nominations and is a two-time Emmy Award winner. He is founder of K.D. 151 Blood Products, an industry standard. Kenny had a special interest in pyrotechnics after watching a television special on the subject. He inquired about pyrotechnics classes at schools located in the Los Angeles area. He enrolled in a makeup school, finding no other avenues that could help him. This included classes in Salon Makeup! By the end of the one-year course, Kenny knew he would become a Makeup Artist for the entertainment industry. He continued his career working for student and independent films such as Roar, starring Tippi Hedren and her daughter, Melanie Griffith. After the film completed, Diaz became an instructor, developing the skills and confidence that have contributed to his success today.
Daniela Eschbacher
Daniela Eschbacher is one of today's newest Makeup Artists. She lives in Paris, and works for international magazines and commercials in places such as Switzerland, Germany, Sweden, Holland, England, Austria, and Japan. She started out assisting various artists before branching out on her own projects with photographers, stylists, and independent movies. Daniela has always been fascinated by photography, fashion, and the creation of illusion. After graduating from Economy High School, she went to Vienna to become experienced in hairdressing and acquire a degree. At the age of 20, Daniela moved to Paris and attended an international artist's school. By this time, she had already started to work with established Makeup Artists and Hairstylists. Daniela's work has been featured by such publications as Make-Up Artist Magazine.
Kris Evans
For over 20 years, Kris Evans has created unique makeup designs in the world of entertainment. Kris has worked on everything from Saturday Night Live to large production films, creating characters in such movies as X-Men: The Last Stand and National Treasure. She has also used her skills on Broadway in The Phantom of the Opera. Kris is used to traveling worldwide in the NBC Olympic broadcast team or for couture runway shows and fashion shoots.
Kim Felix-Burke
Kim Felix-Burke grew up in the film business. She wanted to be a fashion illustrator, but her stepfather, Ed Levy, a successful film producer, suggested that Kim try makeup instead, reasoning that “[p]ainting a face is just another form of a canvas.” This sent Kim off to basic training at the Joe Blasco School in Los Angeles. Kim was fortunate to continue her education in makeup by working for some of the great “old-timers” in Hollywood. Twenty years later she still loves “slinging dirt” and “primping pretty faces.” Kim lives in the Los Angeles area with her family.
Dan Gheno
Dan Gheno teaches and lives in New York City. Professor emeritus at the Lyme Academy College of Fine Arts in Old Lyme, Connecticut, he lectures and teaches at The Art Student League and the National Academy School in New York City. Dan has been featured in numerous national and international publications, including American Artist, Drawing, and Drawing Highlights. Gheno studied at Santa Barbara Art Institute, Art Students League, and National Academy of Design. His work is featured in exhibits nationally and in the collections of several museums.
Steven Horak
Steven Horak graduated with degrees in vocal performance from Washington State University and the Cincinnati College-Conservatory of Music, intending a career as an opera singer, but always having an interest in and an affinity for the field of theatrical makeup and wigs. Steven began singing for Detroit's Michigan Opera Theatre (MOT) in the old-man roles often assigned to young bass-baritones, “doing my own makeup in all cases, as no real makeup department existed.” Observing that he appeared to have some talent in this area, the company offered to pay a large portion of his tuition to the San Francisco Opera (SFO) Wig and Makeup Training Program, on the condition that he return to MOT and establish a department for them. After receiving his certificate from the program, which was led by SFO's Wigmaster, Richard Stead, he fulfilled his commitment to MOT and returned to Detroit to accept the staff position, which he held for 12 seasons. During the off-season, he represented several wig and makeup companies (Theatrical Hairgoods Co., Bruce Geller Associates, and Tom Watson Associates) at opera companies across the nation, including the Greater Miami Opera, Opera Co. of Philadelphia, and Opera Theatre of St. Louis, among many others. He also began building his own wig stock and client list, which included the Chicago Opera Theatre. In 1994, a staff position in the Makeup Department at the Metropolitan Opera was offered. He continues to do wig rentals and wig building, most notably for Studio EIS, a company in Brooklyn that fabricates realistic human figures to museums across the United States, including the recent, extensive exhibit illustrating the life of George Washington at Mount Vernon, Virginia. He also takes one summer opera job in the NYC area each year, where he hones his skills at cranking out full makeups, including wig application, in 10 to 15 minutes, recalling his early days “on the line” at SFO.
Don Jusko
Don Jusko was an artist before art college. After college in 1962, during the Cuban Crisis, Don was a part of Naval Photo Squadron VFP-62, based in Jacksonville, Florida. After four years in the Navy, he worked as the Art Director for an advertising agency in Jacksonville. He then opened his own agency in San Francisco. For the past 30 years, he has been painting Maui scenes on location, capturing the island's history. Don's work continues to be admired by all. While painting on location with his own choice of transparent primary pigments, the Real Color Wheel was born. By 1996, a printed copy was being sold on the Internet. Today, his color site garners 1.7 million hits a month, with free printable downloads of his color wheel. This color wheel has given artists the ability to paint natural-looking dark shadow colors by mixing real color oppositions together and not using black pigment.
Devon Keene
Devon Keene is a current student and working artist originally from Tampa, Florida. She is currently a junio
r studying at Ringling College of Art and Design located in Sarasota, Florida, where she will receive her degree in fine arts. Devon works in various mediums, most commonly sculpture, painting, and photography. Since she first started out using photographic mediums, most of her work is heavily influenced by the image. She is involved in various artistic organizations and her work has been exhibited in a variety of shows throughout Sarasota, Florida.
Erwin H. Kupitz
Erwin Kupitz is a professional Hairstylist, Wig Maker, and Makeup Artist, with more than 25 years of experience in the fields of opera, theater, film, media, and management. He has been the owner of the wig-making business Custom Made Hair Goods for the past 12 years. Erwin is the president and founder of Cimuha, Inc., which has been in operation for the past three years. He is also the Designer of Hair Replacement, EHK, for the hair-replacement company J.A. Alternatives, Inc., located in New York and New Jersey. Erwin completed his education and corresponding apprenticeships in Germany. In addition, he has expanded his professional training by attending workshops and seminars at various institutions in the following fields: special effects makeup, hair coloring, and modern hair-cutting techniques. Erwin's professional affiliations include membership in the Chamber of Handcrafts, Germany, and the IATSE Local Makeup Artists of Hollywood. Erwin embarked on his career in Europe, and from 1982 to 1992 held the positions of Makeup Artist, Principal Makeup Artist, Wigmaster, Vice Department Head, and Department Head in performing-arts productions ranging from the Bavarian State Opera and Theatre in Munich, Germany, and the Royal Opera in Belgium to the Salzburg Festival in Austria. From the onset of his professional work in the United States in 1992 to the present, Erwin has had a prolific career that has encompassed the following: 59 major motion pictures (including Academy Award–winning films Forrest Gump, Titanic, and Dreamgirls), 22 television shows, and eight stage productions. Erwin received Emmy nominations in 1994–1995 for Outstanding Achievement in Hairstyles for a Mini Series (In Search of Dr. Seuss, TNT), and in 1998–1999 for Outstanding Achievement in Makeup for a Television Series (Buffy the Vampire Slayer, FOX TV). The list of accomplished actors who Erwin has worked with include Academy Award winners, screen legends, and contemporaries such as Jack Nicholson, Shirley MacLaine, Warren Beatty, Sir Anthony Hopkins, Angelina Jolie, Anthony Quinn, Diane Lane, Michael Caine, Patrick Stewart, Gene Hackman, Diahann Carroll, Edward Norton, Plácido Domingo, Jane Seymour, Hugh Jackman, Andy Garcia, James Woods … and the list goes on and on. Erwin's body of work reflects his flexibility to traverse the diverse media of the performing arts with a degree of technical expertise and professional experience that future Makeup Artists and Hairstylists can respect and aspire to in their own careers.