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The Makeup Artist Handbook

Page 38

by Gretchen Davis


  173

  Alginate

  281

  All-in-one airbrush systems

  172–173

  Analogous colors

  37, 38f

  Anatomy

  2, 7

  Ankle bones

  279

  Anoff, Matiki

  289

  Arm

  lower bones

  279

  upper bones

  279

  Arteries

  29, 280

  B

  Bald caps

  138–142

  Beard stubble techniques

  160–162

  Beard stubble with brush

  161–162

  Beard with stubble application

  158–160

  Beauty makeup

  89

  Birthmark concealment

  84

  Black

  44

  Black-and-white film

  60

  Black-and-white photography

  48–49, 48f, 52–53, 91

  Blending

  281

  Blood effects

  burns

  234

  description

  233

  FX palette

  236

  gunshot wounds

  234

  lighting conditions

  235

  medical descriptions

  234

  mouth blood

  236–237

  products

  232

  selection

  233–234

  skin illustrators

  236

  tone

  236

  usage

  234–236

  viscosity

  235–236

  Blue gels

  50

  Bluescreen

  60, 60f

  Blusher

  76

  Body

  anatomy

  29–30

  arteries

  29

  bacterial infection

  26–27

  blood disorder

  26–27

  bones of

  cranium

  20

  face

  20

  chicken pox

  27

  circulatory system and veins

  28–29

  conjunctivitis

  26

  eye muscles

  28

  face muscle

  28

  facial muscles and expression

  anger

  20, 23f

  disgust

  23, 23f

  enjoyment

  20, 23f

  fear

  23, 23f

  sadness

  23, 24f

  surprise

  23, 23f

  facial skin disorders

  port-wine stain (nevus flammeus)

  24

  psoriasis

  25

  rosacea

  26

  scars

  26

  vitiligo

  26

  facial surface anatomy

  18, 18f

  frostbite

  27

  heat exhaustion

  27

  heatstroke

  27

  Herpes Zoster

  26

  human immunodeficiency virus (HIV)

  26

  jaw muscles

  28

  leukemia

  26–27

  lower body

  28

  meningitis

  26

  mouth muscles

  28

  mumps

  26

  muscular system

  20, 21f, 28

  pneumonia

  26

  rubella

  27

  skeletal system

  18, 19f, 27–28

  skin

  allergies

  24

  anthrax

  24

  disease

  24

  layers

  24, 25f

  shock

  24

  skull

  27

  skull surface anatomy

  18, 18f

  smallpox

  27

  spinal column

  27

  tetanus

  26

  tuberculosis

  26

  upper body

  27–28

  vascular system

  20, 22f

  veins

  29

  viral infection

  26–27

  Body in motion

  8–10, 8f, 9f

  Body makeup

  96

  Body wounds

  30

  Bones

  ankle

  279

  breast

  279

  collar

  279

  curved

  279

  finger

  279

  foot

  279

  frontal

  279

  hand

  279

  jaw

  279

  lower arm

  279

  nasal

  279

  occipital

  279

  pelvic

  279

  shoulder

  279

  thigh

  279

  upper arm

  279

  wrist

  279

  zygomatic arch

  279

  Breast bone

  279

  Brightness

  44

  Brow shaping

  92–93

  Buccinator

  28

  C

  Cab-O-Sil

  281

  Call sheet

  244, 247–248

  Caninus

  28

  Carlsson, Lars

  289

  Carpal bones

  28

  Cathode ray tube (CRT)

  62

  Cerilla, J.C

  289

  Character design

  118–120

  Cheek stretch

  130f, 131

  Chin stretch

  130, 130f

  Circulatory system

  280–281

  Clavicle

  27

  Cleaning stencils after airbrushing

  181–182

  Collar bone

  279

  Color

  apple primary colors

  36, 37f

  black

  41

  black-and-white scale

  37, 37f

  blue

  40

  film

  60

  flesh tones, mixing pigment for

  39–40

  function

  40–41

  green

  40

  neutral darks

  38

  orange

  40

  pink

  41

  real color wheel (RCW)

  35, 36fsecondary colors

  36, 37f

  red

  40

  tattoo(s)

  34, 34f, 35f

  theory

  67–68

  tint color wheel

  36, 37f

  violet

  40

  white

  41

  yellow

  40

  Color-compensating filters (CC filters)

  51

  Color-correction filters

  51

  Commercials

  day checking

  248

  vs. film and television industry

  253

  Complementary colors

  37, 38f

  Complexion palette

  101, 101f

  Concealer

  72<
br />
  Concealing and correction applications

  84–85

  Contact lenses

  bloodshot contacts

  134f

  brown eye, old age

  134f

  scleral lenses

  134f

  single eye

  134f

  Contours

  14

  Cool skin tones

  67

  Correction filters

  46

  Corrugator

  28

  Cosmetics

  Australia

  269

  Brazil

  269

  Canada

  269–270

  France

  270

  Germany

  270

  Greece

  271

  Hong Kong

  271

  Ireland

  271

  Israel

  271

  Italy

  271

  Mexico

  271

  New Zealand

  271

  Philippines

  271

  Romania

  271

  Russia

  271

  South Korea

  272

  Spain

  272

  sponge

  100, 100f

  Sweden

  272

  Taiwan

  272

  United Kingdom

  272–273

  United States

  California

  267–268

  Florida

  268

  New York

  268–269

  Pennsylvania

  269

  Covering tattoos

  96

  Cranium bones

  20

  Crew

  assistant director

  275

  first assistant director

  275

  key production assistant

  275

  low-budget productions

  276

  Makeup Artists

  275

  script supervisor

  continuity

  277

  lined script

  277

  production reports

  277

  script

  277

  slating

  277

  second assistant director

  275

  second second assistant director

  275

  term usages

  276–277

  third assistant director

  275

  Crowd scenes

  256

  Crow's feet stretch

  130, 130f

  Curved bones

  279

  Custom contact lenses

  133–135

  D

  Daniela's makeup kit

  253

  Dark flesh tone palette

  101, 101f

  Day checking

  call sheet

  244, 247–248

  commercials

  248

  daily hire, film

  244–247

  film and television industry

  244

  makeup kits

  Daniela's makeup kit

  253

  makeup bag

  251–253

  set bag

  250, 251

  set chair

  253

  skills

  248–249

  treatment bag

  249–250

  Deadener

  281

  Dean, Richard

  290

  Design

  bald caps

  138–142, 139f, 140f, 141f, 142f

  character design

  118–120

  contact lenses

  133–135

  eyebrow blocking

  120–122

  face chart

  125–126, 125f, 126f, 127f

  inspiration for design

  110

  morphing

  111f, 112f

  presentation

  110–118, 110f

  script breakdown

  112, 113f

  teeth

  135–138

  DHA-based airbrush makeup

  174

  Diaz, Kenneth

  290

  Digital

  58f

  Digital high-definition camera

  58, 58f

  Digital photography

  60, 282

  Digital television (DTV)

  60

  Dominant wavelength (DWL)

  44

  Dot method

  282

  Double fog filters

  51

  Dual tone

  36

  E

  East coast makeup trailer

  254, 254f

  Enhancing filters

  51

  Eschbacher, Daniela

  290

  Evans, Kris

  290

  Eye

  muscles

  280

  shadow

  75

  shapes

  12–13, 12f

  Eyebrow

  appliance

  122

  blocking

  120–122

  definer

  76

  Eyelids stretch

  130, 130f

  Eyeliner

  76

  F

  Face

  muscles

  280

  shapes

  10–11, 10f, 11f

  Facial bones

  29

  Facial codes

  20–23

  Facial hair design

  159b

  Facial hair laying using plastic cap

  163–165

  Facial muscles and expression

  280anger

  20, 23f

  disgust

  23, 23f

  enjoyment

  20, 23f

  fear

  23, 23f

  sadness

  23, 24f

  surprise

  23, 23f

  Facial skin disorders

  port-wine stain (nevus flammeus)

  24

  psoriasis

  25

  rosacea

  26

  scars

  26

  vitiligo

  26

  False eyelashes

  94–95

  Felix-Burke, Kim

  291

  Femur

  28

  Fibula

  28

  Film and television industry

  vs. commercial

  253

  day checking

  244

  Finger bones

  279

  Flesh tones

  39–40

  Fluorescent-light (FL)

  46, 51

  Fog filters

  51

  Foot bones

  279

  Forehead wrinkles stretch

  129, 129f

  Forms

  2

  Foundations

  artist color wheel

  66, 67f

  color theory and mixing

  67–68

  comparison chart

  73f

  cream foundations

  71

  cream-to-powder foundations

  71

  derma color palette

  74f

  liquid foundations

  71

  makeup cosmetics color chart

  68f

  mineral foundations

  71

  mixing

  67–69

  powder foundations

  71

  primer

  70

  tinted moisturizers

  71

  Frontal bone

  27, 279

  Furrow lines stretch


  129, 129f

  FX skin illustrator palette

  98–99, 99f

  G

  Gelatin prosthetics

  appliance prepping

  209

  description

  206–207

  heating

  208

  making of

  207–210

  molding

  208–209

  painting

  210

  utilization

  209–210

  Gel filters

  49–51, 49f, 53, 282

  Gheno, Dan

  291

  Glam eyes

  93, 94f

  Glamour makeup

  93

  Graduated filters

  51

  Gray gels

  50

  Green gels

  51

  Green Marble SeLr aging technique

  128–129

  Greenscreen

  61, 61f

  Gretchen's bag

  makeup

  251–253

  set

  251

  treatment

  249–250

  Grunge palette

  102, 102f

  Gypsum mold-making

  filling molds

  216

  foam molds

  212–214

  GM Foam

  211

  latex systems

  214–215

  prepping ultracal 30

  215–216

  safety

  215

  steadfast rule

  211

  steps for

  212

  H

  Hair

  bald-cap material

  125

  ball method

  160–161

  Erwin Kupitz's hair ball method

  122–123

  full-beard template

  110f, 111f, 112f, 113f, 121f, 123f, 124f, 125f, 126f, 127f

  masking tape technique

  108, 128f, 129f, 130f

  Matthew Mungle's net lace method

  123–124

  template

  106–107

  ventilated beard

  108–109

  Hand bones

  279

  HD live

  107–108

  High-definition (HD)

  digital high-definition camera

  58, 58f

  makeup department

  59

  monitor

  62

  motion pictures in digital

  59

  resolution in digital

  59–60

  High-definition TV (HDTV)

  60

  Horak, Steven

  291

  Hue

  36

  Humerus

  27

  I

  Industry standards

  adhesives

  263–264

  anti-shines

  263

  brush cleaners

  264

  effects products

  264

  fixers

  265

  foundation colors

  264

  makeup palettes

  265

  makeup products

  264–265

  old-age stipple

  264

  PAX paint

  264

  powders

  265

  primers

  265

  removers

  265

  sealers

  265

  silicon products

  264

  tattoo ink type products

  264

  tear products

  264

  water-activated makeup

  265

  Infectious disease

  26, 27

  International Alliance of Theatrical and Stage Employees (IATSE)

  297

 

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