Simple Chinese Cookery
Page 3
Clockwise from top: fresh water chestnuts, star anise, Sichuan peppercorns, wonton skins
Wonton Skins
These thin, yellowish, pastry-like wrappings made from egg and flour can be stuffed with minced meat and fried, steamed or used in soups. They are available fresh or frozen from Chinese grocers or supermarkets, sold in little piles of 8 cm (3¼ in) squares, wrapped in plastic. Fresh wonton skins will keep for about 5 days in the refrigerator if wrapped in clingfilm or a plastic bag. If you are using frozen wonton skins, just peel off the number you require and leave to thaw completely.
EQUIPMENT
Traditional cooking equipment is not essential for the preparation of Chinese food but in some cases will make it very much easier. These implements have been tested through many centuries of use. Once you become familiar with woks and clay pots, for example, you will have entered the culinary world of China.
Wok
All your faith in Chinese cookery and your own skills will come to nothing without a good wok. This versatile piece of equipment can be used not only for stir-frying but also for blanching, deep-frying and steaming. Its shape permits fuel-efficient, quick and even heating and cooking. When stir-frying, the deep sides prevent the food spilling over; when deep-frying, much less oil is required because of the tapered base of the wok.
There are two basic types: the traditional Cantonese version, with short, rounded handles on either side, and the pau, sometimes called the Peking wok, which has one 30–35 cm (12–14 in) long handle. The long-handled wok keeps you at a safer distance from the possibility of splashing hot oil or water.
The standard round-bottomed wok may only be used on gas hobs. Ones with flatter bottoms are now available, designed especially for electric hobs. Although this shape really defeats the purpose of the traditional design, which is to concentrate intense heat at the centre, it is better than an ordinary frying-pan because it has deeper sides.
Choosing a Wok
Choose a large wok – preferably about 30–35 cm (12–14 in) in diameter, with deep sides. It is easier and safer to cook a small batch of food in a large wok than a large quantity in a small one. Be aware that some modernized woks are too shallow or too flat-bottomed and thus no better than a frying-pan. A heavier wok, preferably made of carbon steel, is superior to the lighter stainless steel or aluminum type, which cannot take very high heat and tends to blacken, as well as scorch the food. Good non-stick carbon steel woks that maintain the heat without sticking are now on the market. They need special care to prevent scratching but in recent years the non-stick technology has improved, so that they can now be safely recommended. They are especially useful when cooking food that has a high acid level, such as lemons.
Seasoning a Wok
All woks except non-stick ones should be seasoned before first use. Many need to be scrubbed as well, to remove the machine oil that is applied to the surface by the manufacturer to protect it in transit. This is the only time you will ever need to scrub your wok – unless you let it become rusty.
Scrub it with a cream cleanser and water to remove as much of the machine oil as possible. Then dry it and put it on the hob on a low heat. Add 2 tablespoons of cooking oil and, using a wad of kitchen paper, rub the oil over the inside of the wok until the entire surface is lightly coated. Heat the wok slowly for about 10–15 minutes and then wipe it thoroughly with more kitchen paper. The paper will become blackened. Repeat this process of coating, heating and wiping until the kitchen paper comes clean. Your wok will darken and become well seasoned with use, which is a good sign.
Cleaning a Wok
Once your wok has been seasoned, you should never scrub it with soap or water. Just wash it in plain clear water and dry it thoroughly after each use – putting the cleaned wok over a low heat for a minute or two should do the trick. If it does rust a bit, scrub it with a cream cleanser and re-season it.
Stir-frying in a Wok
The most important thing when stir-frying is to have all your ingredients ready and to hand – this is a very fast method of cooking and you will not have time to stop and chop things while you are cooking.
Heat the wok until it is very hot, then add the oil and distribute it evenly over the surface using a metal spatula or long-handled spoon. It should be very hot – almost smoking – before you add the ingredients.
Add the food to be cooked and stir-fry by tossing it around the wok or pan with a metal spatula or long-handled spoon. If you are stir-frying meat, let each side rest for a few seconds before continuing to stir. Keep moving the food from the centre of the wok to the sides.
I prefer to use a long-handled wok, as there can be a lot of splattering due to the high temperature at which the food must be cooked.
Wok Accessories
Wok Stand
This is a metal ring or frame designed to keep a conventionally shaped wok steady on the hob. It is essential if you want to use your wok for steaming, deep-frying or braising. Stands come in two designs: a solid metal ring punched with about six ventilation holes, and a circular thin wire frame. If you have a gas cooker use only the latter type, as the more solid design does not allow for sufficient ventilation and may lead to a build-up of gas, which could put the flame out completely.
Wok Lid
This light, inexpensive domed cover, usually made from aluminium, is used for steaming. It is normally supplied with the wok but, if not, may be purchased at a Chinese or Asian market, or you may use any domed saucepan lid that fits snugly.
Spatula
A long-handled metal spatula shaped rather like a small shovel is ideal for scooping and tossing food in a wok. Alternatively any good long-handled spoon can be used.
Rack
When steaming food in your wok, you will need a wooden or metal rack or trivet to raise the food above the water level. Wok sets usually include a rack but, if not, Asian and Chinese grocers sell them separately. Department stores and hardware shops also sell wooden and metal stands which can serve the same purpose. Any rack, improvised or not, that keeps the food above the water so that it is steamed and not boiled will suffice.
Bamboo Brush
This bundle of stiff, split bamboo is used for cleaning a wok without scrubbing off the seasoned surface. It is an attractive, inexpensive implement but not essential. A soft washing-up brush will do just as well.
Chopping Board
One decided improvement over traditional Chinese cooking implements is the modern chopping board made of hardwood or white acrylic. Typical Chinese chopping boards are made of soft wood, which is difficult to maintain and, being soft, provides a fertile surface for bacteria. Hardwood or white acrylic boards are easy to clean, resist bacterial accumulation, and last much longer. Chinese cookery entails much chopping, slicing and dicing so it is essential to have a large, steady chopping board. For reasons of hygiene, never place cooked meat on a board on which raw meat or poultry has been prepared. For raw meat, always use a separate board and clean it thoroughly after each use.
Chopsticks
Many Western diners feel challenged by chopsticks, but I always encourage their use. Attempting any new technique is an interesting experience, and chopsticks do indeed offer the novice a physical entrée into Chinese cuisine. They are used as a combination spoon and fork, and for stirring, beating, whipping and mixing. But, of course, you can also get along nicely with Western spoons, forks, ladles, spatulas and whisks.
Chopsticks are cheap and readily available. I prefer the wooden ones but in China plastic ones are more commonly used (and reused) for hygienic and economic reasons.
Cleaver
To Chinese cooks, the cleaver is an all-purpose cutting instrument that makes all other knives redundant. Once you acquire some skill with a cleaver you will see how it can be used on all types of food to slice, dice, chop, fillet, shred, crush or whatever. In practice, most Chinese chefs rely upon three different sizes of cleaver – light, medium and heavy – to be used appropriately. Of course, you
may use your own familiar kitchen knives instead, but if you decide to invest in a cleaver choose a good-quality stainless steel model and keep it sharpened.
Deep-fat Fryer
A deep-fat fryer is very useful and you may find it safer and easier to use for deep-frying than a wok. The quantities of oil given in the recipes in this book are based on the amount required for deep-frying in a wok. If you are using a deep-fat fryer instead, you will need about double that amount, but never fill it more than half-full with oil.
Wok with lid, spatula, chopsticks, wok stand, cleaver and rack
Rice Cooker
Electric rice cookers are increasing in popularity. They cook rice perfectly and keep it warm throughout the meal. They also have the advantage of freeing a burner or element so the hob is less cluttered. They are relatively expensive, however, so are only worth buying if you eat rice frequently.
Sand or Clay Pots
The Chinese rely upon these lightweight clay pots for braised dishes, soups and rice cooking. Their unglazed exteriors have a sandy texture, hence their name, and their design allows the infusion of aromas and tastes into foods. Clay pots are available in many sizes, with matching lids, and, being quite fragile, they are often encased in a wire frame. They should be used directly on the hob (most Chinese do not have ovens) but never put an empty clay pot on a heated element or a hot one on a cold surface: the shock will crack it. Clay pots should always have at least some liquid in them and, when filled with food, they can take very high heat. If you have an electric cooker, use an asbestos pad to insulate the pot from direct contact with the hot coils. Note that because of the release of hot steam you should always lift the lid away from you.
Clay pots and bamboo steamers
Steamer
Steaming is not a very popular cooking method in the West. This is unfortunate because it is the best way of preparing many foods with a delicate taste and texture, such as fish and vegetables. In China, bamboo steamers have been in use for thousands of years. They come in several sizes of which the 25 cm (10 in) one is the most suitable for home use. The food is placed in the steamer, which is then placed above boiling water in a wok or pot. To stop the food sticking to the steamer as it cooks, put it on a layer of clean, damp muslin. A tight-fitting bamboo lid prevents the steam escaping; several steamers, stacked one above the other, may be used simultaneously.
Before using a bamboo steamer for the first time, wash it and then steam it with nothing in it for about 5 minutes. Of course, any kind of wide metal steamer may be used instead if you prefer.
Miscellaneous
Stainless steel bowls of different sizes, along with sieves and colanders, round out the list of basic implements. They are very useful because you will often have to drain or strain oils and juices and because you will be doing much mixing of wonderful foods. It is better to have one too many tools than one too few.
Conversion tables
Conversions are approximate and have been rounded up or down. Follow one set of measurements only – do not mix metric and Imperial.
Weights
Metric Imperial
15 g ½ oz
25 g 1 oz
40 g 1½ oz
50 g 2 oz
75 g 3 oz
100 g 4 oz
150 g 5 oz
175 g 6 oz
200 g 7 oz
225 g 8 oz
250 g 9 oz
275 g 10 oz
350 g 12 oz
375 g 13 oz
400 g 14 oz
425 g 15 oz
450 g 1 lb
550 g 1¼ lb
675 g 1½ lb
900 g 2 lb
1.5 kg 3 lb
1.75 kg 4 lb
2.25 kg 5 lb
Volume
Metric Imperial
25 ml 1 fl oz
50 ml 2 fl oz
85 ml 3 fl oz
150 ml 5 fl oz (¼ pint)
300 ml 10 fl oz (½ pint)
450 ml 15 fl oz (¾ pint)
600 ml 1 pint
700 ml 1¼ pints
900 ml 1½ pints
1 litres 1¾ pints
1.2 litres 2 pints
1.25 litres 2¼ pints
1.5 litres 2½ pints
1.6 litres 2¾ pints
1.75 litres 3 pints
1.8 litres 3¼ pints
2 litres 3½ pints
2.1 litres 3¾ pints
2.25 litres 4 pints
2.75 litres 5 pints
3.4 litres 6 pints
3.9 litres 7 pints
5 litres 8 pints (1 gal)
Measurements
Metric Imperial
0.5 cm ¼ inch
1 cm ½ inch
2.5 cm 1 inch
5 cm 2 inches
7.5 cm 3 inches
10 cm 4 inches
15 cm 6 inches
18 cm 7 inches
20 cm 8 inches
23 cm 9 inches
25 cm 10 inches
30 cm 12 inches
Oven temperatures
140°C 275°F Gas Mk 1
150°C 300°F Gas Mk 2
160°C 325°F Gas Mk 3
180°C 350°F Gas Mk 4
190°C 375°F Gas Mk 5
200°C 400°F Gas Mk 6
220°C 425°F Gas Mk 7
230°C 450°F Gas Mk 8
240°C 475°F Gas Mk 9
SOUPS and STARTERS
Recipe List
Classic Chinese chicken stock
Cantonese egg flower soup
Sweetcorn and crab soup
Cantonese wonton soup
Spicy hot and sour soup
Crispy ‘seaweed’
Sesame prawn toast
Crispy fried wontons
Dim sum-style pork dumplings
Peking-style caramel walnuts
Spring rolls
Classic Chinese chicken stock
Your first step on the path to success with Chinese cooking is to prepare and maintain an ample supply of good chicken stock. I prefer to make a large amount and freeze it. Once you have a supply of stock available you will be able to prepare any number of soups or sauces very quickly.
makes about 3.4 litres (6 pints)
preparation time: 15 minutes
cooking time: 3–5 hours
Chicken stock is light, delicious and inexpensive to make. It marries well with other foods, enhancing and sustaining them. Small wonder that it is an almost universally present ingredient in Chinese cookery, from the Imperial kitchens to the most humble food stalls. The usual Chinese chicken stock is very simple: the essence of chicken, often with complements of ginger and spring onion added. Combined with the condiments that give Chinese food its distinctive flavour, good stock captures the essential taste of China. The simple recipe given here reflects what I believe works best for any Chinese dish. The classic Chinese method of ensuring a clear stock is to blanch the meat and bones before simmering. I find this unnecessary. My method of careful skimming achieves the same result with far less work.
Commercially prepared tinned or dried stocks are available but many of them are of inferior quality, since they are either too salty or contain additives and colourings that can adversely affect your health as well as the natural taste of good food. Stock does take time to prepare but it is easy to make your own – and home-made is the best. Here are several important points to keep in mind when making stock:
• Good stock requires meat to give it richness and flavour. It is therefore essential to use at least some chicken meat, if not a whole bird.
• Use a tall, heavy pot so the liquid covers all the solids and evaporation is slow.
• The stock should never boil. If it does it will become cloudy and the fat will be incorporated into the liquid. Flavour and digestibility come with a clear stock.
• Simmer the stock slowly and skim it regularly. Be patient; you will reap the rewards each time you prepare a Chinese dish.
• Strain the finished stock
well through several layers of muslin or a fine sieve.
• Allow the stock to cool thoroughly, then chill and remove any fat before freezing it.
2 kg (4½ lb) raw chicken feet, wings, etc, or any leftover bones you may have (save uncooked chicken bones and keep them in the freezer until you need them)
675 g (1½ lb) chicken pieces, such as wings, thighs, drumsticks
5 litres (8 pints) cold water 3 slices of fresh root ginger, cut into diagonal slices 5 x 1 cm (2 x ½ in)
6 spring onions, green tops removed
6 garlic cloves, unpeeled but lightly crushed
1 teaspoon salt
1 Put all the chicken into a very large pot (the bones can be put in either frozen or defrosted). Cover with the cold water and bring to a simmer.
2 Using a large, shallow spoon, skim off the scum as it rises to the surface of the water from the bones. Watch the heat, as the stock should never boil. Keep skimming as necessary until the stock looks clear. This can take 20–40 minutes at a low simmer. Do not stir or disturb the stock.
3 Now add the ginger, spring onions, garlic cloves and salt. Simmer the stock on a very low heat for 2–4 hours, skimming any fat off the top at least twice. The stock should be rich and full-bodied, which is why it needs to be simmered for such a long time.