Simple Chinese Cookery
Page 4
4 Strain the stock through several layers of dampened muslin or through a very fine sieve. Let it cool thoroughly, then chill. Remove any fat that has risen to the top. It is now ready to be used or transferred to containers and frozen for future use.
Cantonese egg flower soup
This easy soup is found in almost every Chinese restaurant. No wonder; it is tasty and fantastically exotic. Lightly beaten egg lies flat on the surface of the soup like lilies on a pond. This effect is created by gently guiding the egg over the soup in strands instead of dropping the mixture in all at once, which would cause it to lump together. The egg mixture slightly thickens the soup, which nonetheless remains very light. As with any good soup, the most important thing is the stock upon which it is based.
serves 4
preparation time: 5 minutes
cooking time: 5 minutes
1 egg, lightly beaten
2 teaspoons sesame oil
1.2 litres (2 pints) Classic Chinese chicken stock (see here) or good-quality bought stock
1 teaspoon sugar
1 teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon light soy sauce 3 tablespoons finely shredded spring onions, white part only
3 tablespoons finely shredded green spring onion tops, to garnish
1 Put the egg and sesame oil in a small jug or bowl, mix with a fork and set aside.
2 Put the stock into a pot and bring to a simmer. Add the sugar, salt and soy sauce and stir to mix them in well. Stir in the white part of the spring onions.
3 Next add the egg mixture in a very slow, thin stream.
4 Using chopsticks or a fork, pull the egg slowly into strands. I find that stirring the egg in a figure of eight works quite well. Garnish with the green spring onion tops.
Sweetcorn and crab soup
This popular Chinese soup has captivated Western diners. My mother often made it using fresh sweetcorn. For convenience, tinned or frozen corn may be substituted but I think my mother’s recipe is superior.
serves 4
preparation time: 5 minutes
cooking time: 10 minutes
450 g (1 lb) corn on the cob, or 275 g (10 oz) tinned or frozen sweetcorn
1 egg white
1 teaspoon sesame oil
1.2 litres (2 pints) Classic Chinese chicken stock (see here) or good-quality bought stock
1 tablespoon Shaoxing rice wine or dry sherry
1 tablespoon light soy sauce
2 teaspoons finely chopped fresh root ginger
1 teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon freshly ground white pepper
1 teaspoon sugar
2 teaspoons cornflour, blended with 2 teaspoons water
225 g (8 oz) fresh or frozen crabmeat
2 tablespoons finely chopped spring onions, to garnish
1 If you are using fresh corn, pull back the husks, wash the cobs and then remove the kernels with a sharp knife or cleaver. You should end up with about 275 g (10 oz) corn.
2 Mix the egg white and sesame oil together in a small jug or bowl and set aside.
3 Bring the stock to the boil in a large pot and add the corn. Simmer for 5 minutes, uncovered, then add the rice wine or sherry, light soy sauce, ginger, salt, pepper, sugar and the cornflour mixture. Bring back to the boil, then lower the heat to a simmer. Add the crabmeat.
4 Immediately afterwards, slowly pour in the egg white mixture in a steady stream, stirring all the time. Transfer the soup to a tureen or individual bowls and garnish with the spring onions.
Cantonese wonton soup
This is one of the most popular soups in food stalls throughout southern China and it is equally popular in Chinese restaurants in the West. Soup wonton should be stuffed savoury dumplings poached in clear water and then served in a rich broth. Unfortunately in many restaurants the soup arrives with wonton skins but very little filling. This recipe will enable you to make a simple but authentic wonton soup. Wonton skins can be obtained, fresh or frozen, from Chinese grocers.
serves 4
preparation time: 30 minutes, plus at least 20 minutes’ chilling
cooking time: 10 minutes
225 g (8 oz) wonton skins, thawed if necessary
1.2 litres (2 pints) Classic Chinese chicken stock (see here) or good-quality bought stock
1 tablespoon light soy sauce
1 teaspoon sesame oil
Chopped green spring onion tops, to garnish
For the filling:
225 g (8 oz) raw prawns, peeled, de-veined (see here) and coarsely chopped
225 g (8 oz) minced fatty pork
1 teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1½ tablespoons light soy sauce
3 tablespoons finely chopped spring onions (white part only)
2 teaspoons finely chopped fresh root ginger
1 tablespoon Shaoxing rice wine or dry sherry
1 teaspoon sugar
2 teaspoons sesame oil
1 egg white, lightly beaten
1 For the filling, put the prawns and pork in a large bowl, add the salt and pepper and mix well, either by kneading with your hand or stirring with a wooden spoon.
2 Add all the other filling ingredients and mix thoroughly. Cover the bowl with clingfilm and chill for at least 20 minutes.
3 To stuff the wontons, put 1 tablespoon of the filling in the centre of each wonton skin. Dampen the edges with a little water and bring them up around the filling. Pinch the edges together at the top so that the wonton is sealed; it should look like a small, filled bag.
4 Put the stock, soy sauce and sesame oil in a large pot and bring to a simmer. Meanwhile, bring a large pan of salted water to the boil and poach the wontons in it, in batches, for 1 minute or until they float to the top.
5 Remove the wontons immediately and transfer them to the pot of stock. (Poaching them first results in a cleaner-tasting broth.) Simmer them in the stock for 2 minutes. Transfer to a soup tureen or individual bowls, garnish with the spring onion tops and serve immediately.
Spicy hot and sour soup
This northern and western Chinese soup has become quite popular in the Western world because it is a hearty dish, suited to cold climates. It combines sour and spicy elements in a rich, tasty stock and reheats very well. The list of ingredients may look daunting but in fact the soup is quite easy to make. Replete with contrasting textures and flavours, it makes an engaging alternative to Western-style soups.
serves 4
preparation time: 25 minutes
cooking time: 5 minutes
1.2 litres (2 pints) Classic Chinese chicken stock (see here) or good-quality bought stock
2 teaspoons salt
100 g (4 oz) lean pork, finely shredded
25 g (1 oz) Chinese dried mushrooms, soaked, stems removed (see here)
15 g (½ oz) dried tree fungus or wood ear fungus, soaked, stems removed (see here)
225 g (8 oz) fresh firm beancurd, drained
2 eggs, beaten with a pinch of salt
4 teaspoons sesame oil
1½ tablespoons light soy sauce
1 tablespoon dark soy sauce
1 teaspoon freshly ground white pepper
6 tablespoons Chinese white rice vinegar or cider vinegar
2 teaspoons chilli oil
2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh coriander
For the marinade:
1 teaspoon light soy sauce
1 teaspoon Shaoxing rice wine or dry sherry
½ teaspoon sesame oil
½ teaspoon cornflour
A pinch of salt
A pinch of sugar
1 Bring the stock to a simmer in a large pot and add the salt. Meanwhile, combine the pork with the marinade ingredients, mix well and set aside.
2 Finely shred the soaked mushrooms, tree or wood ear fungus and beancurd and set aside. In a small bowl, combine the eggs with 2 teaspoons of the sesame oil.
3 Stir the pork into the stock and simmer for 1 minute. T
hen add the mushrooms and beancurd and simmer for a further 2 minutes.
4 Pour in the egg mixture in a slow, thin, steady stream. Using chopsticks or a fork, pull the egg slowly into strands.
5 Remove the soup from the heat, and add the soy sauces, white pepper and vinegar. Give the soup a good stir, then stir in the remaining sesame oil, plus the chilli oil and coriander. Ladle into a soup tureen or individual bowls and serve.
Crispy ‘seaweed’
This is one of the most popular Chinese restaurant dishes in the West. A special type of seaweed is used in China but it is not yet available elsewhere so Chinese cabbage is used instead. This is a good example of the adaptability of Chinese cuisine: if the original ingredients are not available, technique and ingenuity will overcome the deficiency. This dish is delicious and easy to make, and, speaking of adaptability, can also be tried with fresh spinach leaves.
serves 4
preparation time: 20 minutes
cooking time: 20 minutes
1.25 kg (2½ lb) bok choy (Chinese white cabbage)
900 ml (1½ pints) groundnut oil
1 teaspoon salt
2 teaspoons sugar
50 g (2 oz) pine kernels, lightly roasted
1 Separate the stalks from the stem of the bok choy and then cut the green leaves from the white stalks. (Save the stalks; you can stir-fry them with garlic – see Stir-fried broccoli here – or use them for soup.)
2 Wash the leaves in several changes of cold water, then drain them thoroughly and dry in a salad spinner. Roll the leaves up tightly, a few at a time, and finely shred them into strips 5 mm (¼ in) wide.
3 Spread them out on a baking sheet and put them in an oven preheated to 120°C/250°F/Gas Mark ½ for 15 minutes to dry slightly. They should not be completely dry or they will burn when fried. Remove from the oven and leave to cool. This can be done the day before.
4 Heat a wok over a high heat, then add the oil. When the oil is hot and slightly smoking, deep-fry the greens in 3 or 4 batches. After about 30–40 seconds, when they turn crisp and green, remove them immediately from the wok and drain well on kitchen paper. Leave to cool.
5 Toss the crispy greens with the salt and sugar. Garnish with the pine kernels and serve.
Sesame prawn toast
Sesame prawn toast is often served as an appetizer in Chinese restaurants. Its origins are rather obscure but I suspect it is a variation on the prawn paste used widely in southern China as a stuffing or for deep-frying into crispy balls.
makes about 30 pieces
preparation time: 25 minutes
cooking time: 25 minutes
10 thin slices of white bread
3 tablespoons white sesame seeds
450 ml (15 fl oz) groundnut oil
For the prawn paste:
450 g (1 lb) raw prawns, shelled and de-veined (see here)
100 g (4 oz) fresh or tinned water chestnuts, peeled if fresh, finely chopped
100 g (4 oz) minced fatty pork
1 teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 egg white
3 tablespoons finely chopped spring onions (white part only)
1½ tablespoons finely chopped fresh root ginger
1 tablespoon light soy sauce
2 teaspoons sesame oil
2 teaspoons sugar
1 Using a cleaver or sharp knife, chop the prawns coarsely and then mince them finely into a paste. Put them into a bowl and mix in the rest of the ingredients for the prawn paste. (Alternatively, you could do all this in a food processor.) The paste can be made several hours in advance and kept, covered, in the refrigerator.
2 Remove the crusts from the bread and cut it into rectangles about 7.5 x 2.5 cm (3 x 1 in) – you should have about 3 pieces per slice. If the bread is fresh, place it in a warm oven to dry out a little. Dry bread will absorb less oil.
3 Spread the prawn paste thickly on each piece of bread. The paste should form a mound about 3 mm (⅛ in) deep, although you can spread it more thinly if you prefer. Sprinkle the toasts with the sesame seeds.
4 Heat the oil to a moderate heat in a wok or deep-fat fryer. Deep-fry several prawn toasts at a time, paste-side down, for 2–3 minutes. Then turn them over and deep-fry for another 2 minutes, until they are golden brown.
5 Remove with a slotted spoon, drain on kitchen paper and serve.
Crispy fried wontons
Another favourite with Chinese-food lovers. Ordinary wontons become savoury treats when dipped in a sweet and sour sauce. They make a great snack or starter for any meal. The sweet and sour sauce can be made a day in advance, refrigerated, and then brought to room temperature before serving. The recipe can easily be doubled for those who want more sauce. Wonton skins can be bought fresh or frozen from Chinese grocers.
serves 6
preparation time: 35 minutes, plus at least 20 minutes’ chilling
cooking time: 20 minutes
225 g (8 oz) wonton skins, thawed if necessary
600 ml (1 pint) groundnut or vegetable oil
For the filling:
350 g (12 oz) raw prawns, shelled, de-veined (see here) and coarsely minced or chopped
100 g (4 oz) minced fatty pork
2 teaspoons salt
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
4 tablespoons finely chopped spring onions
2 teaspoons finely chopped fresh root ginger
2 teaspoons Shaoxing rice wine or dry sherry
1 teaspoon sugar
2 teaspoons sesame oil
1 egg white, lightly beaten
For the sweet and sour dipping sauce:
150 ml (5 fl oz) water
2 tablespoons sugar
3 tablespoons Chinese white rice vinegar or cider vinegar
3 tablespoons tomato paste or tomato ketchup
1 teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon freshly ground white pepper
1 teaspoon cornflour, blended with 2 teaspoons water
1 For the filling, put the prawns and pork in a bowl, add the salt and pepper and mix well, either by kneading with your hand or stirring with a wooden spoon. Add all the remaining filling ingredients and stir well. Cover with clingfilm and chill for at least 20 minutes.
2 In a small saucepan, combine all the ingredients for the sweet and sour sauce except the cornflour mixture. Bring to the boil, stir in the cornflour mixture and cook for 1 minute. Remove from the heat and leave to cool.
3 To stuff the wontons, put 1 tablespoon of the filling in the centre of each skin. Dampen the edges with a little water and bring them up around the filling. Pinch together at the top so that the wonton is sealed; it should look like a small, filled bag.
4 Heat a wok over a high heat. Add the oil and, when it is very hot and slightly smoking, deep-fry the wontons, a handful at a time, for 2–3 minutes or until golden and crisp. If they brown too quickly, reduce the heat slightly.
5 Drain the wontons well on kitchen paper, then serve immediately with the sweet and sour sauce.
Dim sum-style pork dumplings
Chinese restaurant diners usually enjoy discovering these teahouse treats, which have always been a favourite of the southern Chinese. They are simply stuffed wontons (egg dough dumplings) that have been steamed instead of poached or deep-fried. Steaming gives them a more pronounced, yet subtle, taste and texture. Wonton skins can be obtained fresh or frozen from Chinese grocers.
makes about 40
preparation time: 30 minutes
cooking time: 20 minutes per batch
1 packet of wonton skins (about 40), thawed if necessary
A little vegetable oil
For the filling:
100 g (4 oz) fresh or tinned water chestnuts, peeled if fresh, finely chopped
100 g (4 oz) raw prawns, shelled, de-veined (see here) and coarsely chopped
350 g (12 oz) minced fatty pork
2 tablespoons finely chopped Parma ham or lean smoked bacon
1 ta
blespoon light soy sauce
1 teaspoon dark soy sauce
1 tablespoon Shaoxing rice wine or dry sherry
3 tablespoons finely chopped spring onions
2 teaspoons finely chopped fresh root ginger
2 teaspoons sesame oil
1 egg white, lightly beaten
1 teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
2 teaspoons sugar
1 To make the filling, put all the ingredients in a bowl and mix together thoroughly.
2 Place a portion of the filling on each wonton skin. Bring up the sides and press them around the filling mixture. Tap the dumpling on the bottom to make a flat base. The top should be wide open, exposing the filling.
3 Set up a steamer or put a rack inside a wok or large, deep pot. Pour in about 5 cm (2 in) of water and bring to the boil. Oil the rack, or the inside of the steamer to prevent the dumplings sticking. Put the dumplings on it (you may have to cook them in several batches).
4 Cover the pot tightly, turn the heat to low and steam gently for about 20 minutes. To save time, use a larger steamer to cook bigger batches. Serve the dumplings hot; they can be reheated if necessary by steaming gently for a few minutes.
Peking-style caramel walnuts