Simple Chinese Cookery
Page 5
This Peking-style dish is increasing in popularity throughout the West as more non-Cantonese recipes make their way on to Chinese restaurant menus. The shelled walnuts must be blanched first to rid them of any bitterness. Then they are rolled in sugar, left to dry for several hours and deep-fried to caramelize the sugar coating. Finally they are rolled in sesame seeds. The result is a classic contrast of tastes and textures. They can be served hot or cold and are perfect with drinks.
serves 4
preparation time: 10 minutes, plus at least 2 hours’ drying
cooking time: 15 minutes
225 g (8 oz) shelled walnuts
100 g (4 oz) granulated sugar
450 ml (15 fl oz) groundnut oil
3 tablespoons sesame seeds
1 Bring a large pan of water to the boil, add the walnuts and then simmer for about 5 minutes. Drain through a colander or sieve.
2 Pat the walnuts dry with kitchen paper and spread them on a baking tray. Sprinkle the sugar over the warm nuts and roll them in it to coat them completely. Place the tray in a cool, draughty place and leave to dry for at least 2 hours, preferably overnight. (They can be prepared ahead to this point.)
3 Heat the oil to a moderate heat in a wok or deep-fat fryer. Fry a batch of the walnuts for about 2 minutes or until the sugar melts and the walnuts turn golden (adjust the heat if necessary to prevent burning). Remove the nuts from the oil.
4 Sprinkle them with the sesame seeds and lay them on a wire rack to cool. (Do not drain them on kitchen paper or the sugar will stick when it dries.) Deep-fry and drain the rest of the walnuts in the same way. Serve warm or cold. Once cooled, the caramel walnuts can be kept in a sealed glass jar for about 2 weeks.
Spring rolls
Spring rolls are one of the best-known Chinese snacks. They are not difficult to make and are a perfect starter for any meal. They should be crisp, light and delicate. Spring roll skins can be obtained fresh or frozen from Chinese grocers.
makes about 15–18
preparation time: 40 minutes
cooking time: 20 minutes
1 packet of spring roll skins, thawed if necessary
1 egg, beaten
1.2 litres (2 pints) groundnut oil for deep-frying
1 quantity of Sweet and sour dipping sauce (see here)
For the filling:
100 g (4 oz) raw prawns, shelled, de-veined (see here) and minced or very finely chopped
100 g (4 oz) minced fatty pork
1½ tablespoons groundnut oil
2 tablespoons coarsely chopped garlic
1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh root ginger
1½ tablespoons light soy sauce
1 tablespoon Shaoxing rice wine or dry sherry
3 tablespoons finely chopped spring onions
1 teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
225 g (8 oz) Chinese leaves (Peking cabbage), finely shredded
25 g (1 oz) dried Chinese black mushrooms, soaked, stems removed (see here), and finely shredded
For the marinade:
1 teaspoon light soy sauce
1 teaspoon Shaoxing rice wine or dry sherry
1 teaspoon sesame oil
½ teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 For the filling, combine the prawns and pork with all the marinade ingredients in a small bowl.
2 Heat a wok over a high heat. Add the 1½ tablespoons of groundnut oil and, when it is very hot and slightly smoking, add the garlic and ginger and stir-fry for 20 seconds.
3 Add all the rest of the filling ingredients, including the prawn and meat mixture, and stir-fry for 5 minutes. Place the mixture in a colander to drain and allow it to cool thoroughly.
4 Place 3–4 tablespoons of the filling near the end of each spring roll skin, then fold in the sides and roll up tightly.
5 Seal the open end by brushing a small amount of the beaten egg along the edge, then pressing together gently. You should have a roll about 10 cm (4 ins) long, a little like an oversized cigar.
6 Rinse out the wok and reheat it over a high heat, then add the oil for deep-frying. When the oil is hot and slightly smoking, gently drop in as many spring rolls as will fit easily in one layer.
7 Fry the spring rolls until golden brown and cooked through, about 4 minutes. Adjust the heat as necessary. Remove with a slotted spoon, drain on a wire rack then on kitchen paper. Cook the remaining spring rolls in the same way. Serve them at once, hot and crispy, with the sweet and sour sauce for dipping.
FISH and SHELLFISH
Recipe List
Steamed Cantonese-style fish
Sichuan braised fish
Sweet and sour prawns
Spicy Sichuan-style prawns
Stir-fried squid with vegetables
Cantonese crab with black bean sauce
Steamed fresh oysters
Steamed Cantonese-style fish
Steaming is a favourite Chinese cooking method for fish. A simple but gentle technique, it doesn’t mask the fresh taste of the fish, which remains moist and tender, and you can savour the combination of the other ingredients. An added bonus is that it is very healthy. Always buy the freshest possible fish and ask your fishmonger to prepare it for cooking.
serves 4
preparation time: 10 minutes
cooking time: 5–15 minutes
450 g (1 lb) firm white fish fillets, such as cod or sole, skinned, or a whole fish such as sole or turbot
1 teaspoon coarse sea salt or plain salt
1½ tablespoons finely shredded fresh root ginger
3 tablespoons finely shredded spring onions
2 tablespoons light soy sauce
2 teaspoons dark soy sauce
1 tablespoon groundnut oil
2 teaspoons sesame oil
Fresh coriander sprigs, to garnish
1 Pat the fish dry with kitchen paper and evenly rub with the salt, rubbing it inside the cavity as well if you are using a whole fish. Put the fish on a heatproof plate and scatter the ginger evenly over the top.
2 Set up a steamer or put a rack into a wok or deep pan. Fill it with 5 cm (2 in) of water and bring to the boil over a high heat. Put the plate of fish on the rack, cover tightly and steam the fish until it is just cooked. Flat fish fillets will take about 5 minutes; whole fish, or fillets such as sea bass, will take 12–14 minutes. The fish should turn opaque and flake slightly but still remain moist.
3 Remove the plate of cooked fish and pour off any liquid that may have accumulated. Scatter the spring onions on the fish, then drizzle over the light and dark soy sauces.
4 Heat the two oils together in a small saucepan until smoking, then immediately pour them over the fish. Garnish with coriander and serve at once.
Sichuan braised fish
This quick and easy dish is bursting with the spicy flavours of Sichuan. A firm, white fish such as cod, sea bass, halibut or haddock is most suitable for braising.
serves 4
preparation time: 15 minutes
cooking time: 10 minutes
450 g (1 lb) fresh firm white fish fillets, such as cod, sea bass or halibut, skinned
1 teaspoon salt
Cornflour for dusting
150 ml (5 fl oz) groundnut oil
3 spring onions, cut into 5 cm (2 in) slices on the diagonal
1 tablespoon finely chopped garlic
2 teaspoons finely chopped fresh root ginger
For the sauce:
150 ml (5 fl oz) Classic Chinese chicken stock (see here) or good-quality bought stock
1 teaspoon whole yellow bean sauce
1 tablespoon chilli bean sauce
2 tablespoons Shaoxing rice wine or dry sherry
2 teaspoons dark soy sauce
2 teaspoons sugar
2 teaspoons sesame oil
½ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon freshly ground white pepper
1 Sprinkle the fish fillets even
ly on both sides with the salt. Cut them into strips 5 x 2.5 cm (2 x 1 in) and leave for 20 minutes.
2 Dust the strips of fish liberally with cornflour.
3 Heat a wok over a high heat. Add the oil and, when it is very hot and slightly smoking, turn the heat down. Fry the pieces of fish on both sides until they are lightly browned. Remove from the wok and drain on kitchen paper.
4 Pour off most of the oil, leaving about a tablespoon in the wok. Re-heat the wok, then add the spring onions, garlic and ginger and stir-fry for 30 seconds.
5 Add all the sauce ingredients and bring to the boil. Turn the heat down to a simmer and return the fish to the pan. Simmer for about 2–3 minutes, then serve.
Sweet and sour prawns
Perhaps one of the most popular and best-known Chinese dishes in the West. It is simple to make, and the sweet, pungent flavours of the sauce combine well with the firm, succulent prawns.
serves 4
preparation time: 25 minutes
cooking time: 5 minutes
1½ tablespoons groundnut oil
1½ tablespoons coarsely chopped garlic
2 teaspoons finely chopped fresh root ginger
4 spring onions, cut into 4 cm (1½ in) pieces diagonally
450 g (1 lb) raw prawns, shelled and de-veined (see here)
100 g (4 oz) red or green pepper, cut into 2.5 cm (1 in) squares
225 g (8 oz) fresh or tinned water chestnuts, peeled if fresh, sliced
For the sauce:
150 ml (5 fl oz) Classic Chinese chicken stock (see here) or good-quality bought stock
2 tablespoons Shaoxing rice wine or dry sherry
3 tablespoons light soy sauce
2 teaspoons dark soy sauce
1½ tablespoons tomato paste
3 tablespoons Chinese white rice vinegar or cider vinegar
1 tablespoon sugar
1 tablespoon cornflour, blended with 2 tablespoons water
1 Heat a wok over a high heat, then add the oil. When it is very hot and slightly smoking, add the garlic, ginger and spring onions and stir-fry for 20 seconds.
2 Add the prawns and stir-fry them for 1 minute.
3 Next add the pepper and water chestnuts and stir-fry for 30 seconds.
4 Now add all the sauce ingredients except the cornflour mixture. Bring to the boil, add the cornflour mixture, then turn the heat down and simmer for 3 minutes. Serve immediately.
Spicy Sichuan-style prawns
Sichuan cooking is popular throughout China and in recent years adventurous Chinese restaurant diners have discovered how delicious it can be. This is one of the best-known dishes from that area.
serves 4
preparation time: 25 minutes
cooking time: 5 minutes
1½ tablespoons groundnut oil
2 teaspoons finely chopped fresh root ginger
1 tablespoon coarsely chopped garlic
2 tablespoons finely chopped spring onions
450 g (1 lb) raw prawns, shelled and de-veined (see here)
For the sauce:
1 tablespoon tomato paste
2 teaspoons chilli bean sauce
2 teaspoons Chinese black vinegar or cider vinegar
½ teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
2 teaspoons sugar
2 teaspoons sesame oil
Fresh coriander sprigs, to garnish (optional)
1 Heat a wok over a high heat. Add the oil and, when it is very hot and slightly smoking, add the ginger, garlic and spring onions.
2 Stir-fry for 20 seconds, then add the prawns. Stir-fry the prawns for about 1 minute.
3 Add all the sauce ingredients and continue to stir-fry for another 3 minutes over a high heat. Serve at once.
Stir-fried squid with vegetables
Squid cooked the Chinese way is both tender and tasty. The secret is to blanch it in boiling water, then cook it for the minimum amount of time – just enough to firm it up slightly. Cooking it for too long will make it tough, so that eating it is like chewing on rubber bands. This recipe can also be prepared with prawns if you find squid difficult to obtain.
serves 4
preparation time: 25 minutes
cooking time: 10 minutes
450 g (1 lb) cleaned and prepared squid
1½ tablespoons groundnut oil
2 tablespoons coarsely chopped garlic
1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh root ginger
100 g (4 oz) red or green pepper, cut into thin strips
100 g (4 oz) mangetout, trimmed
3 tablespoons Classic Chinese chicken stock (see here) or good-quality bought stock
1 tablespoon Shaoxing rice wine or dry sherry
3 tablespoons oyster sauce
1 tablespoon light soy sauce
2 teaspoons dark soy sauce
2 teaspoons salt
2 teaspoons of cornflour, blended with 2 teaspoons water
2 teaspoons sesame oil
1 If the tentacles are still attached to the head of the squid, cut them off and reserve. Discard the head. Cut the squid bodies into 4-cm (1½-in) strips.
2 Blanch the strips and tentacles by simmering them in a large pan of boiling water for 15 seconds. The squid will firm up slightly and turn an opaque white colour. Remove and drain in a colander.
3 Heat a wok over a high heat, then add the oil. When it is very hot and slightly smoking, add the garlic and ginger and stir-fry for 15 seconds. Then add the pepper strips and mangetout and stir-fry for 1 minute.
4 Add all the rest of the ingredients except the squid and sesame oil and bring the mixture to the boil.
5 Give it a stir, then add the squid and mix well. Cook for 30 seconds more, stir in the sesame oil and serve at once.
Cantonese crab with black bean sauce
This recipe reflects the popularity of black beans, which go well with almost any food. It is a great favourite in many Chinese restaurants. However, it can only be made with fresh crabs in the shell, since the shell protects the delicate crabmeat during the stir-frying process. If you can’t get crab in the shell, use prawns instead. I have added some minced pork – a Chinese trick which helps to stretch the expensive crabmeat. The Chinese traditionally eat the crab with their fingers. I suggest you have a large bowl of water decorated with lemon slices on the table so that your guests can rinse their fingers.
serves 4–6
preparation time: 20 minutes
cooking time: 20 minutes
1 live or freshly cooked crab in the shell, weighing about 1.5 kg (3 lb)
2 tablespoons groundnut oil
3 tablespoons coarsely chopped salted black beans
2 tablespoons coarsely chopped garlic
1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh root ginger
3 tablespoons finely chopped spring onions
225 g (8 oz) minced pork
2 tablespoons light soy sauce
1 tablespoon dark soy sauce
2 tablespoons Shaoxing rice wine or dry sherry
250 ml (8 fl oz) Classic Chinese chicken stock (see here) or good-quality bought stock
2 eggs, beaten
2 teaspoons sesame oil
1 To cook a live crab, bring a large pot of water to the boil, add 2 teaspoons of salt and then put in the crab. Cover the pot and cook the crab for about 5–7 minutes, until it turns bright red. Remove with a slotted spoon and drain in a colander. Leave to cool.
2 Place the cooked crab on its back on a board. Using your fingers, twist the claws from the body. They should come off quite easily.
3 Now twist off the bony tail flap on the underside of the crab and discard it. With your fingers, pry the body from the main shell. Remove and discard the small, bag-like stomach sac and its appendages, which are located just behind the crab’s mouth.
4 Pull the soft, feathery gills, which look a little like fingers, away from the body and discard them. Remove the legs and put to one side.
5 Using a cleaver o
r heavy knife, split the crab shell in half and, using a spoon, fork or skewer, scrape out all the brown crabmeat.
6 Using a cleaver or heavy knife, cut the crab, shell included, into large pieces. Crack the claws and legs slightly.
7 Heat a wok over a high heat. Add the oil and, when it is very hot and slightly smoking, add the black beans, garlic, ginger and spring onions and stir-fry for 20 seconds.
8 Then add the pork and stir-fry for 1 minute. Add the crab pieces and all the remaining ingredients except the eggs and the sesame oil. Stir-fry over a high heat for about 10 minutes.
9 Combine the eggs with the sesame oil and then gradually pour this into the crab mixture, stirring slowly. There should be light strands of egg trailing over the crab mixture. Turn it on to a large, warm platter, or arrange in crab claws and serve.
Steamed fresh oysters
Steaming oysters brings out their subtle, briny taste and wonderful texture. Watch them carefully to prevent overcooking. This dish is very simple to prepare and makes a dramatic opening for a special dinner party.
serves 4
preparation time: 20 minutes
cooking time: 10 minutes
16 large fresh oysters on the shell
Fresh coriander sprigs, to garnish