Journal of a Mountain Man
Page 4
“Comeing out I fired my gun again one man and horse made their appearance the horse out ran the man plunging into the water first each man as he came fired his gun and Shouted as soon as he could moisten his mouth and throat Sufficienty to mak a noise about dark we all got collected except two who had given out and ware left buried in the sand all but their heads Capt Smith Being the last who was able to walk and he took Some water and rode about 2 miles back bringing up the exhausted men which he had buried in the sand and this two days of thirst and Starvation was made to cross a large bend of the white clay River in the morning we found it yet 4 or 5 miles to the [Teton or Bad?] river whare our guide [was] waiting for us I have been thus particular in describing the means and trobles of traveling in a barren and unknown region here our River is a beautiful Clare stream running over a gravely bottom with some timber along its course having [emerged] from its bed of mud and ashes for the sediment spoken of is nearer it mouth Continued up the vally of this stream [Teton or Bad River] to Sioux encampment of the Bois Brulie [Burnt Wood] tribe whare we remained several days trading for Horses and finely obtained 27 or 28 which gave us 2 horses to each man and two or three spare animals so far the country is dry not fit for cultivation (Tere may) However there may be and pro[b]a[b]ly is better soil and better gr[a]ising higher up amongst the hills as it certainly grew better (was) the farther we proceeded up the stream and there was an incr[e]as of Shrubery and soil Likewise here our guide left us to return with the Horses we had borrowed of the Miourie Furr compy.
“We packed up and crossed the White Clay [Teton] river and proceeded north westernly over a dry roling Country for several days meting with a Buffaloe now and then which furnished us with provision for at least one meal each day our luck was to fall in with the Oglela tiribe of Sioux whare [we] traded a few more horses and swaped of[f] some of our more ordina[r]y
Grizzly bear attack on Jedediah Smith
“Country nearly the same short grass and plenty of cactus untill we crossed the [South Fork of?] Chienne River a few miles below whare it leaves the Black Hill range of Mountains here some aluvial lands look like they might bear cultivation we did not keep near enough to the hills for a rout to travel on and again fell into a tract of county whare no vegetation of any kind existed beeing worn into knobs and gullies and extremely uneven a loose grayish coloured soil verry soluble in water running thick as it could move of a pale whitish coular and remarkably adhesive there [came] on a misty rain while we were in this pile of ashes [bad-lands west of the South Fork of the Cheyenne River] and it loded down our horses feet (feet) in great lumps it looked a little remarkable that not a foot of level land could be found the narrow revines going in all manner of directions and the cobble mound[s] of a regular taper from top to bottom all of them of the percise same angle and the tops share the whole of this region is moveing to the Misourie River as fast as rain and thawing of Snow can carry it by enclining a little to the west in a few hours we got on to smoothe ground and soon cleared ourselves of mud at length we arived at the foot of the black Hills which rises in verry slight elevation about the common plain we entered a pleasant undulating pine Region cool and refreshing so different from the hot dusty planes we have been so long passing over and here we found hazlenuts and ripe plumbs a luxury not expected We had one [or] two day travel over undulating Pine with here and there an open glade of rich soill and fine grass but assinding the Ridges un[t]ill we arived near the summet our rout became brushy mainly Scruby pine and Juniper the last covered in purple beries comencing our desent the ravines became steep and rugged an rockey the waters flowing westward we suposed we ware on the waters of Powder river one evening late gowing d[o]wn a small stream we came into a Kenyon and pushed ouselves down so far that (that) our horses had no room to turn while looking for a way out it became dark by unpacking and leading our animals down over Slipery rocks three of us got down to a n[i]ce open glade whare we killed a Buffaloe and fared Sumpiously that night while the rest of the Company remained in the Kenyon without room to lie down we now found it would not do to follow down any stream in these moutains as we ware shure to meet with rocky inaccessible places So with great exertion we again assended to the top of a ridge and ware Quite lucky in gitting a main devide which led us a considerable distance before [we] had to desend again but this portion of the mountain furnished our horses with no food and they began to be verry poor and weak so we left 3 men and five horses behind to recruit while the rest of us proceded on there being some sighn of Beaver in the vicinity and hoping to soon find more where we Might all Stop for a time The Crow Indians being our place of destination a half Breed by the name of Rose who spoke the crow tongue was dispached ahead to find the Crows and try to induce some of them to come to our assistance we to travel directly west as near as circumstances would permit supposing we ware on the waters of Powder River we ought to be within the bounds of the Crow country continueing five days travel since leaveing our given out horses and likewise Since Rose left us late in the afternoon while passing through a Brushy bottom a large Grssely came down the vally we being in single file men on foot leding pack horses he struck us about the center then turning ran paralel to our line Capt. Smith being in the advanc he ran to the open ground and as he immerged from the thicket he and the bear met face to face Grissly did not hesitate a moment but sprung on the capt taking him by the head first pitc[h]ing sprawling on the earth he gave him a grab by the middle fortunately cat[c]hing by the ball pouch and Butcher K[n]ife which he broke but breaking several of his ribs and cutting his head badly none of us having any sugical Knowledge what was to be done one Said come take hold and he wuld say why not you so it went around I asked Capt what was best he said one or 2 [go] for water and if you have a needle and thread git it out and sew up my wounds around my head which was bleeding freely I got a pair of scissors and cut off his hair and then began my first Job of d[r]essing wounds upon examination I [found] the bear had taken nearly all his head in his capcious mouth close to his left eye on one side and clos to his right ear on the other and laid the skull bare to near the crown of the head leaving a white streak whare his teeth passed one of his ears was torn from his head out to the outer rim after stitching all the other wounds in the best way I was capabl and according to the captains directions the ear being the last I told him I could do nothing for his Eare O you must try to stich up some way or other said he then I put in my needle stiching it through and through and over and over laying the lacerated parts togather as nice as I could with my hands water was found in about ame mille [a mile] when we all moved down and encamped the captain being able to mount his horse and ride to camp whare we pitched a tent the onley one we had and made him as comfortable as circumtances would permit this gave us a lisson on the charcter of the grissly Baare which we did not forget I now a found time to ride around and explore the immediate surroundings of our camp and assertained that we ware still on the waters of [South Fork of] shiann river which heads almost in the eastern part of the Black hill range taking a western course for a long distance into an uneven vally whare a large portion of (of) the waters are sunk or absorbd then turning short to the east it enters the Black hill rang th[r]ough a narrow Kenyon in appeareantly the highest and most abrupt part of the mountain enclosed in immence cliffs of the most pure and Beautifull black smooth and shining [slate] and perhaps five hunded to one thousand feet high how [far] this slate extends I cannot tell We passe[d] through this slate Quary about 2 miles and one of the men observed here or at some such place Mosses [Moses] must have obtaind the plates or tables on which the declogue was inscirobed some miles farther west I visited [a] place of a different character containing Quite a grove of Petrifid timber standing laying and inclining at various angles one stub in Perticular wa[s] so high that I could barely lay my hand on the top sitting in the saddle the body and main branches scatered on the ground dismouted and picked up several fragments which ware so hard so to bring fire f[r]om steel A mountaneer named [Moses] Harris being St Lo
uis some yers after undertook to describe some of the strange things seen in the mountains spoke of this petrified grove in a restaurant whare a caterer for one of the dailys was prese[n]t and the next morning his exagerated statement came out saying a petrified forest was lately di[s]covered whare the trees branches leaves and all were perfect and the small birds sitting on them with their mouths open singing at the time of their transformation to stone This is a fine country for game Buffaloe Elk Bare deer antelope &c likewise it produces some Hazel nuts Plumbs white thorn Berries wild currant large and of fine flavour and abundance of nutricious grass and some land that would bear cultivation after remaining here ten days or 2 weeks the capt. Began to ride out a few miles and as winter was rapidly approaching we began to make easy travel west ward and Struck the trail of Shian Indians the next day we came to their village traded and swaped a few horses with them and continued our march across a Ridge [of] mountains not steep & rocky (in general) but smooth and grassy in general with numerous springs and brook of pure water and well stocked with game dsending this ridge we came to the waters of Powder River Running West and north country mountainous and some what rockey
Encounter with the Crows
“Rose with 15 or 16 Crow Indians came to our camp as soon as we raised a fire in the evenin they had been watching for two days passed to assure themselves that no Shians were with us they and the Shians being at war they the Crows brought us several spare Horses which relieved our Broke down animals and gave us a chance to ride but they caused us to travel to fast for our poor horses and so Capt Smith gave them what they could pack sending Rose with them and we followed at our own gait stoping and Traping for beaver occasionly Crossing several steep and high ridges which in any other country would be called mountains Crossed Shell river Quite a stream running into the bighorn as I believe the mountains here do not appear to have any rigular direction but run in all directions are tolerable high but not generall precipitous Before l[e]aving this perticular Region I think it the Best Supp[l]ied with game of any we passe[d] through in all our Travels and therefore do not wonder that the Indian would not give it up and if it is not too cold there some soil that will bear cultivation we ware there through the month of November the nights war frosty but the days ware generally warm and pleasant on Tongue river we struck the trail of the (of the) Crow Indians Passed over another ridge of mountains [Owl Creek Mountains] we came on to Wind River which is merely another name for the Big horn above [south of] the Big horn Mountain the most of this Region is barren and worthless if my recollection is right from the heads of the Shian untill we came on to Wind river we ware Bountifully supplied with game but here we found none at all two causes may be assigned for this first the country not being well supplied naturely an Second the Crows haveing passed recntly through they had killed and drove off all the game in our reach our meals being few and far betwen our only hope being to push a head and overtake the Crow village The weather being cold and blustry and I thought the River was well named slight Snows and Strong north winds prevailed continually our horses and urselves became completely exausted before we reached the main Encampment Still passing up Wind river untill we came immediately north of Freemont peak [later so named] on the Wind River Mountain, whare we halted for the winter. [likely near the modern Dubois, Wyoming] The vally is here narrow and uneven but tolerable well set in grass and Buffalo plenty at the time of our arival several grand hunts taking place which being the first I had witnessed I will attempt to give some description the whole grown male population turning out Early in the morning and taking rank along on eeach side of a narrow vally those on fleetest horses taking a circuit and getting behind a large herd Bufflo drove them pell mell down the vally those Stationed on the sides falling in as they passed they run down the Buffaloe so that [the] old and slow could catch them and even men on foot Killed them with Bow and Arrow the Squaws old men and children following and Buchering and secureing meat and skins as fast as possible the night after this grand hunt not more than half the people came in to camp they remaining out to watch the wolves fom the meat untill they could get it packed in d[r]ying now commenced on a grand scale and wood was in demand
“In a few days we moved a short distance to whare wood was more plenty and had another gran hunt after which individuals ware allowed to hunt at their pleasure all though this vally is in heart of the rocky Mountain range Snow did not fall deep and every Clear day it thawed whare the sun struck fairly In the second grand chase I did not go out on horseback as in the first but took it on foot with the foot men the day being too cold for pleasant riding we proceeded to the lower part of the vally whare the stream that passes through the vally enters a narrow Kenyon it being 6 or 7 miles from whare the race commenced and standing on a cliff nea[r]ly ove[r] the buffaloe we had rare Sport shooting them on enquiry as to how many ware slaughterd that day every one said a thousand or upwards thi[s] I did not dispute thinking it fell near the fact myself and about 20 Indians who stood on the rocks of [the] Kenyon Killed Seventy by my own count It is remarkable the amount of cold these Crows can withstand I have frequently seen them dozens of them runing bufaloe on horseback for hours togather all their bodies naked down to the belt around their waists and dismount with but a slight trimble and many of them take a bath every morning even whn the hoar frost was flying thick in the air and it was necessary to cut holes in the ice to get at the water
“They put their children to all kinds of hardships and the femals in particular pack the littl girls and dogs when on march the whole employment of the males being hunting and war and at the time we ware there at least one third of the warriors ware out in war parties in different directions they being in a state of warfare with all the neighbouring tribes in February [1824] we made an effort to cross the mountains north of the wind River [ra]nge but found the snow too deep and had to return and take a Southern course east of the wind river range which is here the main Rockey mountans and the main dividing ridge betwen the Atlantic and Pacific
Clyman saves Sublette from freezing
“In traveling up the Popo Azia [Green River] a tributary of Wind River we came to an oil springe neare the main Stream whose surface was completely covered over with oil resembling Brittish oil and not far from the same place ware stacks [of] Petrolium of considerable bulk [near present Lander, Wyoming]. Buffaloe being scarce our supply of food was Quite scanty Mr Sublett and my self mounted our horses one morning and put in quest of game we rode on utill near sundown when we came in sight of three male bufalo in a verry open and exposed place our horses being too poor to run we made an effort to aproach them by crawling over the ice and snow but our game saw us and was about to brake when we arose and fired luckeyly we broke ones Shoulder had we had our horses at hand so as to mount and follow we would soon [have] had meat but our horses ware narely a mile Distant so Sublett went back for our horses and I loaded my rifle and followed the wounded buffalo there being an uneven riadge about a mile distant in the direction the game went and (and) my hope was to head him there and git another shot I ran with all my speed and fortunately when I came out of cover was in easy gun shot when all breathless mearly pointing my [gun] in the direction of the game to my surprise I gave him a dead Shot bifore I could reload he fell dead in a steep gutter whare I could not commence butcering untill Sublett came up to assist me night came on before we got our meat buchered we gatherd some dry sage and struck a light by which we got of[f] a small Quantity of meat Shortly after the sun left us the North wind arose and grew stronger and stronger and a cold frosty snow commenced falling before [we] finished our suppers there being no wood and sage being small and scarce and [wind] scattering what little fire we had in all directions we spread down our scanty bed and covered ourselves as close as possbele from the wind and snow which found its way through ever[y] crevice
“Allthough the wind blew and the fine frosty snow crept in and around us this was not-the worst for the cold hard frozen earth on which we lay was still more disagreeabl so th
at sleep was out of the Que[s]tion by turning every method for rest day light at last apeared when we consulted what we had best do under the circumstances and it was agre[ed] that I should arise and gather some sage brush which was small and scarce and [Sublette] wold remain under the Buffaloe robe and keep his hands warm if posibl to strike fire but all our calculations failed for as soon [as] our hands became exposed to the air they became so numb that we could not hold thee flint and Steel we then [took] re[c]ourse to our guns with no better Success for the wind was So strong and for the want of some fine metireal to catch the fire in we or my comrade raped himslf in his robe and laid down after a great struggle I made out to saddle my hor[s]e and was about to leave the inhospitable [place] not wishing to leave my friend I asked him if he Could ride if I saddled his horse but he thought not and was unwilling to try I then made several unsuccesful efforts to obtain fire Just as I was about to mount and leave I run my hand in the ashes to see if any warmth remained to my Joy found a small cole of fire alive not larger than a grain of Corn throwing it in to [a] hand full of metirial I had gathered it starte[d] a blaze in a minuit and in one minuit more I had a fine fire my friend got out and crawled up to my side drawing our robe around our backs we tried to warm ourselves but the wind being so strong the smoke and fire came into our faces by the back current I sadled the other hors packed up the meat while Sublet gathered sagebrush to keep up a fire which was no little Job for [it was] carried away allmost a[s] fast as he put it on at length we mounted and left I put my friend ahead and followed urging his horse along We had about four miles to timber I found I would be liable to freeze on ho[r]seback so I got of and walked it being a north inclination the snow was about one foot deep I saw my friend was too numb to walk so I took the lead for the last half mile and struck a grove of timber whare there was an old Indian [lodge] but one side of which was still standing I got fire allmost Immediately then ran back and whoped up my friends horse assisted him to dismount and get to the fire he seemed to [have] no life to move as usual he laid down nearly assleep while I went Broiling meat on a stick after awile I roused him up and gave him his Breakfast when he (he) came to and was as active as usual