Journal of a Mountain Man

by Win Blevins

  “I have been thus particular in discribing one night near the sumit of the Rockey mounta[n]s allthough a number simular may and often do occur

  “We [the entire party] now moved over a low ridge and Struck on Sweet Water Since assertained to be a tributary of the Platte river it was cold and clear the evening that we encamped on Sweet water many of [the] South sides of the hills ware bare of Snow Buffalo scarce and rations limited some time in the night the wind arose to a hericane direct from the north and we had [to] Keep awake and hold on to our blankets and robes to keep them from flying away in the morning we gathered a large pile of dry pine logs and fixed up our blankets against the wind but the back current brought all the smoke and ashes into our faces in fifteen or twenty minuets after taking down our Screen ou[r] fire blew intirely away and left us the wood but no fire we then cleared away the snow under the lea of a clump of willows fixed ourselves as comfortable as circumstances would permit laid to sleep the wind still blowing all day and night without abatement the next morning several of us wrapt ourselves in our robes and (and) attempted to take some exercise following down the stream it became confined in a narrow Kenyon under the points of some rocks we would be partly secure from the cold blast toward evening my companion Mr Branch Saw a mountain sheep on the rocks allmost perpedicular over us and fired at him had the good luck to hit him when he came tumbling down to our feet we soon prepared him and packed him to camp whare efforts were made to broil small pieces but soon gave it up the wind still keeping up such a continual blast as to prevent even a starving mountaneer from satisfying his hunger we all took to our blankets again it being the only way to keep from perishing the blast being so strong and cold Late in the night however the lull came on and being awake I arose and found it Quite comfortable I struck up a fire and commenced cooking and eating by broiling thin slices of meat after a short time my comrades began to arise and we talked cooked eat the remainder of the night in the morning we started out in various directions some to look for game and some to look for more comfortable Quarters our prsent camp being close to the East foot of the wind River mountain and on a low divide directly south of the Wind rever vally having a full sweep for the North Wind [which] Caused us such [an] uncomfortab[l]e time Two pa[r]ties proceeded one in Quest of game the other for a camping ground I went down the sweet water some four or five miles to whare the Kenyon opened out into Quite a valley and found plenty of dry aspin wood in a small grove at the Lower end of the Kenyon and likewise plenty of Mountain Sheep on the cliffs which bounded the stream one of which I had the luck to kill and which I Buried in a snowdrift the next morning we packed up and moved down to the Aspin grove whare we remained some two or three weeks Subsisting on Mountain sheep on our way to our new camp we ware overtaken by one of the heaviest falls of snow that I ever witnessed with but verry slight wind the snow came down in one perfect sheet but fortunately it did not las[t] but a short time and we made our camp in good season as I before said we did not leave this camp until the Mountain Sheep began to get scarce and wild and before leaving we here made a cash of Powder Lead and several other articles supposed to be not needed in our Springs hunt and it was here likewise understood that should circumstances at any time seperate us we would meet at this place and at (and) all event we would all met here again or at some navigable point on the stream below at or by the first [of] June acording to our recording on leaving sweet water we struck in a south westerly direction this being some of the last days of February I think in 1825 [1824] our stock of dried meat being verry scant we soon run out entirely—no game to be found It appears this winter was extremely dry and cold one fourth of the g[r]ound on those ridges south of Sweetwater being entirely bare from the effect of strong west winds which carried the snow over to the East and south sides of the ridges about sixth morning out Mr Sublette and myself ware in the advance looking out for game a few antelope had been see[n] the evening previous a slight snow falling we came on the fresh track of a buffalo and supposing he could not be far off we started full speed after him in running about a mile we came in sight of him laying down the animal being thick a[nd] hevy it [was] difficult to hit a vital part when he is laying down we consulted as to the surest way [of] disabling him and came to the concusion that I fire at the rump and if posible breake his coupling while Sublett would fire at his Shoulder and disable him in forward parts so we [a]greed Sublett counting one two three while we both drew aim and both pull trigger at the word fire when both of our rifles went of simutan[eo]u[sly] and both effected what we desired the animal strugling to rise but could not Sublett beat me in reloading and approached and shot him in the head Just as the company came in sight on a hight of land when they all raised a Shout of Delight at [the] sight many not having tasted food for four days & none of us from two to three now you may suppose we had a happy time in butchering

  Green River

  “Our company coming up we butchered our meat in short order many of the men eating large slices raw we packed up our meat & traveled on untill in the afternoon in hopes of finding water but did not succeed but finding large clumps of sage brush we camped all eaving & part of the night continuing on we found we had crossed the main ridge [South Pass] of the Rocky mountan in the month of January [February] 15 days without water or only such as we got from melting snow our horses eating snow and living fairly when beaver ground was found although we struck Sandy [River] about noon some of the men went immediatly to cutting the ice with thier Tomahauks called out frose to the bottom I walked down they had got down the length of thier arms and was about to give it up I pulled out one of my pistols and fired in to the hole up came the water plentifull for man & horse there being a small growth of willows along the stream we had wood & water plenty but our supply of meat had given out passed down the stream on[e] day in the eavning a buffalo was killed and we were all happy for the present this stream and one other we passd and on the 20th of February we reached Green river where I had the luck to kill two wild geese here Capt Smith with seven men left us he going farther south we left to trap on the branches of the stream as soon as the ice gave way in a few day[s] wild geese became plenty on thawy & Springy places the ice giving way we found beaver plenty and we commenced trapping We found a small family of diggers or Shoshone Indians on our trapping ground whom we feed with the overplus of Beaver the snow disapearing our diggar friends moved off without our knowledge of when or where and when they had gone our horses runing loose on[e] night they all disapeared and we were unable to find them or in what direction they had gone we continued trapping on foot with fair success for about six weeks when the 10th of June was drawing close and we had promised all who were alive to meet at our cash on Sweet Water accordingly we cashed traps & furs hung our saddle & horse equipments on trees & set out for Sweet water the same day about noon on turning the point of a ridge we met face to face with five & six indians mounted on some of our horses

  Clyman separates from the company

  preparing to take possesion of as many horses each on[e] taking hold of a lariet and ordering our friens to dismount but after a short consultation we decided to go with them to thier camp about one mile up a steep mountain where we found six lodges 18 men with a large supply of squaws & children & our old acquaintences that we had fed with the fat of Beaver while the earth was thickly covered with snow we made our camp on rising ground in easy gunshot of thier village all our horses wer given up but one and we concluded this one was hid in the mountain so we caught one of the men tied him fast told them we intended to kill him if our horse was not given back which soon brought him we gave them a few presents and left for our old camp dug up our cashe cut down our saddles and again started for Sweet water this brought us to the 15th of June no sight of Smith or his party remaining here a few days Fitzpatrick & myself mounted & fowling [following] down stream some 15 miles we concluded the stream was unna[vi]gable it beeing generally broad & Shallow and all our bagga[g]e would have to be packed to some navigable point below where
I would be found waiting my comrades who would not be more than three or four days in the rear I moved slowly down stream three days to the mouth where it enters the North Platt Sweetwater is generally bare of all kind of timber but here near the mouth grew a small thick clump of willoes in this I cut a lodging place and geathered some driftwood for a fire which I was just preparing to strike fire I heard human voices on the stream below carfuly watching I saw a number of Indians advance up along the opisite side of the stream being here about 4 rods wide they come up & all stoped on the other side there being a lot of dry wood they soon raised 4 or 5 fires turned loose or tithered all their horses thier being 22 Indians and 30 horses I did not feel myself perfectly safe with so large number a war party in my rear vacinity recoclecting that for ½ mile back the country was bare & sandy the moon a few days before the full I could be trased as easly as if it had been snow so I walked backward across the sandy reagon out to a narrow rocky ridge & following along the same to where the creek broke through it I crossed over to the east side and climbing a high point of rocks I had a fair vew of my disagreeable neighbors at about 40 rods distance some of them lay down and slept while some others kept up the fire about midnight they all arose collected up thier horses too of the horses crossed over the creek two Indians on horse back folowed after when a shout was raised & eight or ten mounted went to assist hunting the fugitives after an hours ride backward & farword they gave up & all started of north I crawled down from my pearch & caught a few moments of cool feverish sleep. next day I surveyed the canyon [Devil’s Gate] through which the river passes fearfuly swift without any perpendicular fall while on one of the high cliffs I discovered about 20 Ind[ians] approach the stream right where I had left a bout halfhour before all on foot they soon mad a small raft of driftwood on which they piled their war equipments & clothes swam the stream and went South I returned to my observatory on Sweetwater I remained in this vacinity eleven days heard nothing of my party began to get lonsome examened my store of amuniton found I had plenty of Powder but only eleven bullets

  Sets out for the Missouri

  reconitering all the curcumstances in my mind I thought if I spent a week in trying to find my old companions & should not be lucky enough to meet with them I would not have balls enough to take me to civilisation & not knowing whither I was on platt or the Arkansas on the 12th day in the afternoon I left my look out at the mouth of Sweetwater and proceeded down stream knowing that civil[iz]ation could be reached Eastward the days were quite warm & I had to keep near the water nothing occured for several day worth mentioning at length I found a bull boat lying drifted up on a sand bar and the marks of a large Indian ranch on the main shore I knew by the boat some white men had [been] here for the Indians never made such boats this gave me a fient hope of meeting some white men in this Indian world but continuing down stream several days I saw several persons running Buffalow on the hills on the other side of the river but to far to tell who they were Great herds of Buffalo were drivin across the river right around me I shot one and dried some meat remained here two days in hopes of meeting some human beeing even a friendly Indian would be a relief to my solitude but no person appearing I moved off down stream some two or three days after [this] I came into a grove of large old cottonwoods where a number of village Martins were nesting

  “I laied down in the shade and enjoyed their twittering for some hours it reminded me of home & civilisation I saw a number of wild horses on the [prairie?] and I thought I would like to ride there is what hunters call “creasing”; this is done by shooting the animal through the neck close above the main bone this stuns them for a minute or more The next buffalo I killed I made a halter, I was forced to keep near the watter for there were no springs or streams on the plain. A fine black stallion came down to drink and beeing in close gun shot I fired as soon as he had gained the main bank he fell & I ran up & haltered him but he never moved for his neck was broken so I missed my wild ride still continuing my journy at length I came to a large recent lodge trail crossing the stream I thought it would be plesent to communicate with humans even though it were Indians

  “Bearly saved my scalp but lost my hair.”

  so I plunged into the stream and crossed over the water was only breast deep any where the villiag was about two miles out in the hills on my approach to them I did not attract thier attention untill within a few rods of thier lodges when a lot of men & boys came running up to me yelling most hidously when one man ran up & snatched my butcher knife and waved it across my breast I thought this a bravado so bared my breast for the fated streike & this perhaps saved my life for he immediatly commensed taking such things as suited him others taking my blankets then all my balls firesteel & flint another untied my powder into a rag when one or two cam rapedly up on horseback then they all left one of the mounted me[n] talking very loud & rapidly then he ordered me to mount behing him which I was glad to do he took me to his lodge and gave me to understand that I must not roam around any for some of them were bad and would kill me I remained in his lodge all night and after the morning meal he had three horses broght he & his son each mounted one and told me to mount the other he rode forward his son in the rear we rode basck over the river & about two miles on the trail where I dismounted and went on a foot again they sitting on their horses watched me untill I had passed over half mile when they returned, my hair had not been cut since I left St Louis I lost my hat at the defeat of the Arickrees and had been bareheaded ever since my hair was quite long my friend had beged for my hair the morning before we left his lodge I had granted his request so he barbered me with a dull butcher knife before leaving me he made me understand he loved me that he had saved my lief and wanted the hair for a memento of me as soon as my friends were fairly out of sight I left the trail fearing some unfriendly Indian the grass was thick and tall which made it hard to brake through so I frequently took ridges which led me from my course the second day in the afternoon I came to a pool of water under an oak tree drank sat down under the shade a short time ate a few grains of parched corn (which my friends had given me) when I heard a growling of some animals near by I advanced a few steps and saw two Badgers fighting I aimed at one but my gun mised fire they started off I geathered some bones (horse brobly) ran after & killed both I struck fire with my gunlock skined & roasted them made a bundle of grass & willow bark. it rained all the later part of the night but I started early in the morning the wet grass beeing more pleasant to travel than the dry it continu[ed] showery for several days the mosquitos be uncommonly bad I could not sleep and it got so damp I could not obtain fire and I had to swim several rivers at last I struck a trail that seamed to lead in the right direction which I determined to follow to its extreeam end on the second day in the afternoon I got so sleepy & nervous that it was with difficulity I kept the trail a number of times I tumbled down asleep but a quick nervous gerk would bring me to my feet again in one of these fits I started up on the trail traveled some 40 rods when I hapened to notise I was going back the way I had come turning right around I went on for some time with my head down when raising my eyes with great surprise I saw the stars & stripe waving over Fort Leavenworth [Atkinson] I swoned emmediatly how long I lay unconcious I do not know I was so overpowered with joy The stars & stripes came so unexpected that I was completly overcome being on decending ground I sat contemplating the scene I made several attemps to raise but as often fell back for the want of strength to stand after some minnites I began to breathe easier but certainly no man ever enjoyed the sight of our flag better than I did I walked on down to the fort there beeing no guard on duty I by axident came to the door of Cap Rileys quarters where a waiter brought out the Cap who conducted me to Generl Leavenworth who assigned me a company & gave me a writen introduction to the settelers where I got credit for a change of clothing some shoes & a soldiers cap I remained here receiving rashions as a soldier for ten days when to my surprise Mr Fitzpatrick Mr Stone & Mr Brench [Branch] arived in a more pitible state if possible than mys
elf. Fitspatrick went back to the cashe after leaving me they opened the cashe found the powder somwhat damp spread it out to dry got all ready to pack up when Smith and party arived the day being quite warm the snow melted on the mountains and raised the water & they came to the conclusion to build a boat there & Fitspatrick Stone & Branch to get the furs down the best way the could Cap Smith to take charge of all the hunting & traping and to remain in the country the season so acordingly they made a skin boat & Cap coming down on horsback to bring me back again, (but I was off surveying the canyon) he saw where the Indians had been where I had cut my lodge in the willows and not finding me came to the conclusion the Indians had killed me so made that report the three men hauld the boat down stream untill it was nearly worn out and the water still falling so they cashed the furs on Indipendence rock and ran down into the Canyon thier boat filled & they lost two of thier guns & all of thier balls they broke the Brass mounting of the gun with rocks bent it into balls with which they killed a few buffalo, the Skin boat I saw on the sand bar was made by four men [Hugh Glass’ party] who crossed over from the mouth of the Bighorn thier winter camp and landing on the shore walked up into the valliage which proved to be Arickaree two of them escaped but the other two were killed this [tribe] afterward proved to be the same people I saw runing buffalo by axident I escaped from them the camp I waided the river to meet were Pownees and here too I bearly saved my scalp but lost my hair”