Appetite for Life
Page 69
“held her ground”: Colonel Heppner remembered that it was Mary Livingston Eddy [Ripley], Julia’s colleague, who had the hole cut in the floor.
“OSS brain bank”: MacDonald, Undercover Girl, 26.
“Ceylon was an Elysium”: Jane Foster quoted in MacDonald, Undercover Girl, 132.
CHAPTER 7
TO CHINA WITH LOVE (1945)
Unpublished Sources
Interviews: JC, John (Jack) Moore 5/20/94, Elizabeth (Betty) MacDonald [Heppner] [McIntosh] 11/3/93, I. Guy Martin 9/30/94, Mary Livingston Eddy [Ripley] 3/31/94 and 7/94, George and Elizabeth (Betty) Kubler 9/26/94.
Correspondence: Elizabeth (Betty) MacDonald [Heppner] [McIntosh] to NRF, 11/27/96; Byron S. Martin to NRF, 1/11/95 and 1/26/95; Louis J. Hector to NRF, 10/16/96; Edwin J. (Ned) Putzell, Jr., to NRF, 1/31/95; Virginia (Peachy) Durand [Shelden] to NRF, 2/3/95; Eleanor (Ellie) Thiry [Summers] to NRF, 9/7/94; PC to “My darling Joan,” 4/17/45.
Archives: Private: copies JC and PC U.S. government records, family letters; diaries of Julia McWilliams, Eleanor (Ellie) Thiry [Summers], Virginia (Peachy) Durand, and Joseph R. Coolidge; unpublished stories by Jeanne Taylor. Schlesinger: PC letter-diary to CC, 1943, 1945, and 8/2/53; JC to AD, 3/18/53. National Archives: Ref. #9300811 and #9300812, 1993–95. CIA: file #F93-0455 (obtained with JC permission under the FOIA, 5/95).
Published Sources
“aluminum trail”: Barbara Tuchman, Stilwell and the American Experience in China, 1911–45 (NY: Macmillan, 1970): 302.
“the C-54”: Elizabeth MacDonald, Undercover Girl (NY: Macmillan, 1947): 150.
“forced [and] unhappy alliance”: R. Harris Smith, OSS: The Secret History of America’s First Central Intelligence Agency (Berkeley: Univ. of CA, 1972): 251.
“medieval cesspool”: Theodore H. White and Annalee Jacoby. Thunder Out of China (London: Victor Gollancz, 1947): 154.
“the atmosphere of a frontier town”: Robert Hayden Alcorn, No Bugles for Spies: Tales of the OSS (London: White Lion, 1977): 63.
“Old Testament Christian”: Theodore White at Large: The Best of His Magazine Writing 1939–1986, ed. Edward T. Thompson (NY: Pantheon, 1992): 43. Originally published in Life, March 2, 1942.
“corrupt political clique”: White and Jacoby, White at Large, 104. Originally published in Life, May 1, 1944.
“this rotten regime”: Tuchman, Stilwell, 378.
“bulged with reports”: Smith, OSS, 269.
“one of the most alert” and “Sub Rosy”: MacDonald, Undercover Girl, 108, 210.
“the terrible Army food”: JC, “How I Learned to Love Cooking,” Parade (Nov. 13, 1994): 13.
“a knowledge of food and drink”: Peter Farb and George Armelagos, Consuming Passions: The Anthropology of Eating (Boston: Houghton Mifflin, 198): 192.
“There will be no more wars”: Theodore H. White, In Search of History: A Personal Adventure (London: Cope, 1979): 224.
“melt[ing]” his “frozen earth”: PC, Bubbles from the Spring (n.p.: Antique Press, 1974): [37]. The published poem differs slightly from the PC letter to CC, Aug. 16, 1945.
“model of ambiguity”: Smith, OSS, 280.
“greatest revolution”: White and Jacoby, Thunder Out of China, 9.
“We always talked”: JC, Parade, 13.
“a sudden vacuum”: MacDonald, Undercover Girl, 221.
“marginal part”: Bradley F. Smith, The Shadow Warriors: OSS and the Origins of the CIA (London: Deutsch, 1983): 310.
“amassed an incredible amount of information”: Stanley Lovell, Of Spies & Stratagems (NY: Pocket Books, 1963): 219.
CHAPTER 8
EASTWARD HO (1945–1946)
Unpublished Sources
Interviews: JC, DC 4/30/93 and 2/16/94, Freeman and Katy Gates 4/24/93 and 2/16/95, John L. Moore 5/20/94, John and Josephine McWilliams 8/13/93, Philadelphia Cousins 3/31/95, Samuel Cousins 2/16/95, Rachel Child 2/24/94 and 11/8/96, Erica Prud’homme 9/22/94, Robert P. Hastings 2/9/95, William A. Truslow 4/20/95, Gay Bradley Wright 2/5/96, Thibaut de Saint Phalle 12/5/94, Francis Myer Brennan 9/23/94, Paul Sheeline 2/26/94, Edmond Kennedy 9/27/94, Eleanor (Ollie) Noall 2/25/94. Group interview with Child siblings, Rachel Child, Erica Prud’homme, Jonathan Child 8/17/93.
Correspondence: Katy Gates to JC, 9/14/82; Nancy Gregg Hatch to NRF, 8/29/96 and 9/3/96; Erica Prud’homme to JC, 5/26/94; PC to Erica Prud’homme, 6/9/86; John L. Moore to NRF, 9/14/94.
Archives: Private: JC & PC love letters (12/45–5/46), business files; James S. Cushing, The Genealogy of the Cushing Family (1905, 1979); Ellie Thiry’s diary (on leaving China). Avon Old Farms School: Gordon Clark Ramsey, “Aspiration & Perseverance: The History of Avon Old Farms School,” n.d. Schlesinger: PC letter-diary to CC, 1943, 1946, 11/22/52 and 11/25/68.
Published Sources
“Ivy League clientele”: Michael Lomonaco with Donna Farsman, “21: The Speakeasy That Became a Restaurant That Became a Legend,” Gourmet (Nov. 1995): 208.
“Mrs. Hill had never seen”: quoted in NRF, “The Crisco Kid,” Los Angeles (July 1996): 84.
“My father was very difficult”: Roberta Wallace Coffey, “Julia and Paul Child: Their Recipe for Love,” McCall’s (Nov. 1988): 98.
“had to decline”: Recollections of John McWilliams: His Youth, Experiences in California, and the Civil War (Princeton: Princeton Univ. Press, [1919?]): 67.
“tall willowy”: CC, Roots in the Rock (Boston: Little, Brown, 1964): 123.
CHAPTER 9
FLAVORS OF MARRIAGE (1946–1948)
Unpublished Sources
Interviews: JC, DC 2/2/96, John L. (Jack) Moore 5/20/94, Francis Myer Brennan 10/7/93, Fisher and Debby Howe 9/28/94, Elizabeth (Betty) and George Kubler 9/26/94, Colin Eisler 12/2/95 and 1/12/97, Sally Bicknell [Miall] 3/25/94, Peter and Mari Bicknell 3/21/94, Edmond Kennedy 9/27/94, Mary Case Warner 11/3/93, Philadelphia Cousins 3/31/95, Guy Martin 9/30/94, Paul Sheeline 2/26/94, Mary Tonetti Dorra 5/6/94. Group interview with Rachel Child, Erica Prud’homme, Jonathan Child 8/17/93.
Correspondence: Peter and Mari Bicknell to NRF, 3/94; Joan Brewster to NRF, 3/14/95; Elizabeth Bicknell to NRF, 1/20/94.
Archives: State of New Jersey: wedding certificate. Dept. of State: PC’s government records. Private: PC private diary 1/48. Schlesinger: PC to CC, 10/29/48, 10/31/48, 11/24/49, 12/21/68 (no letter-diary exists for this period because both Child families were living in the same city); PC to George and Betty Kubler, 2/9/47, 3/6/47, 9/21/48, and 10/29/48.
Published Sources
“wholly compliant femininity”: Laura Shapiro, Perfection Salad: Women and Cooking at the Turn of the Century (NY: Farrar, Straus & Giroux, 1986): 227.
“toward flavor”: Robert Clark, James Beard: A Biography (NY: HarperCollins, 1993): 93.
“charming, civilized”: Anne Mendelson, Stand Facing the Stove: The Story of the Women Who Gave America The Joy of Cooking (NY: Henry Holt, 1996): 144.
“the real thing”: James Beard quoted by John L. Hess and Karen Hess, The Taste of America (NY: Grossman, 1977): 65.
CHAPTER 10
A PARIS (1948–1949)
Unpublished Sources
Interviews: JC, DC 3/9/94, Hélène Baltrusaitis 7/28/93, Madame du Couëdic 7/95, Sylvie (Pouly) and Jacques Delécuse 7/95, Helen Kirkpatrick [Milbank] 9/19/95, Elizabeth (Betty) MacDonald Heppner [McIntosh] 11/3/93, John L. Moore 5/24/94, Philadelphia Cousins 3/31/95, Anne Hastings (granddaughter of Madame Ebrard Saint-Ange) 9/30/94, George and Elizabeth (Betty) Kubler 9/26/94, Francis (Fanny) Myer Brennan 10/7/93 and 9/23/94, Mari and Peter Bicknell 3/21/94, Sally [Bicknell] Miall 3/25/94, Janou Walcutt 2/3/95, Rosemary Manell 5/30/93, Paul Sheeline 2/26/94. Karen Walker interview with Darthea Speyer 1/31/97. Group interview with Rachel Child, Erica Prud’homme, Jonathan Child 8/17/93.
Correspondence: JC to Jeffrey Meyers, 10/4/84; Richard S. Mowrer to NRF, 2/21/95; Janou Walcutt to NRF, 2/3/95; Mari and Peter Bicknell to NRF, 3/94; Sally [Bicknell] Miall to NRF, 4/4/94; Mrs. Alfred (Jean) Friendly to NRF, 7/11/96; JC t
o Albert Sonnenfeld, 10/12/91.
Archives: Private: JC and PC datebooks, 1948, 1949; Mowrer/Child correspondence (courtesy Richard Scott Mowrer). Schlesinger: PC letter-diary to CC/FC (the major source for this chapter), 1948, 1949; correspondence JC, George and Betty Kubler, LB, MFKF, CC and FC; MFKF to JC, 9/24/67. Beinecke: PC/Myers/Brennan correspondence. Smith College: Smith Alumni Quarterly, oral history transcript for College. A Smith Mosaic, 10/10/72.
Published Sources
“golden Normandy butter”: JC, From JC’s Kitchen, 117. All versions of her first meal in France—including the lengthy JC, “That Lunch in Rouen,” New York Times (Oct. 10, 1993): 12—differ somewhat from the authoritative version, PC to CC Nov. 30, 1948, written that evening.
“finest group of American civilians”: Theodore White, In Search of History: A Personal Adventure (London: Cape, 1979): 284.
“grimier”: Herbert Lottman, The Left Bank: Writers, Artists, and Politics from the Popular Front to the Cold War (Boston: Houghton Mifflin, 1982): 238.
“the heart of Paris in 1948”: Lionel Abel, The Intellectual Follies: A Memoir of the Literary Venture in New York and Paris (NY: Norton, 1984): 162, 169.
“Everyone came to Paris”: Art Buchwald, I’ll Always Have Paris: A Memoir (NY: Putnam’s Sons, 1996): 105.
“JC was the only one”: Jack Thomas, “JC: Still Cooking,” Boston Globe (March 6, 1997): E4.
“holiday cooking disaster”: Susan Goodman, “Penthouse Potluck,” Modern Maturity (Nov./Dec, 1996): 34.
“an adventure in the exercise”: White, In Search of History, 204, 274.
“We arrived at the Golden Age”: Art Buchwald, “To Be Young and in Love in Paris,” New York Times (Aug. 25, 1996): 25.
“wedding party”: White, In Search of History, 264.
“The USIS was kind of a stepchild”: Foreign Service Spouse Oral History, “An Interview with JC” (Nov. 7, 1991): 16.
“to restore”: Peter Farb and George Armelagos, Consuming Passions: The Anthropology of Eating (Boston: Houghton Mifflin, 1980): 244.
“The artistic integrity of the French”: Edith Wharton, French Ways and Their Meaning (NY: D. Appleton, 1919): 235.
“subtlety of thought and manner”: Farb and Armelagos, Consuming Passions, 3–4.
“I would have been”: Roberta Wallace Coffey, “Their Recipe for Love,” McCall’s 116 (Nov. 1988): 98. In her datebook, JC lists among her medicines a contraceptive jelly.
“the national pastime”: NRF, Literary Cafés of Paris (Wash. DC: Starrhill, 1989): 16.
“When the two of them”: Jack Hemingway, Misadventures of a Fly Fisherman: My Life With and Without Papa (NY: McGraw-Hill, 1986): 247–48. Photograph of wedding party, including JC, page 150.
CHAPTER 11
CORDON BLEU (1949–1952)
Unpublished Sources
Interviews: JC, DC 4/30/93, 3/9/94, 2/2/96, and 1/10/97, LB 7/12/92, Helen Kirkpatrick [Milbank] 9/19/95, Francis Myer Brennan 10/7/93 and 9/23/94, Janou Walcutt 2/3/95, Hélène Baltrusaitis 7/28/93, Rosemary Manell 4/30/93, Debby and Fisher Howe 9/28/94, Louise Vincent 7/18/95, Ailene Martin Berrard 5/8/94, Susy Davidson 2/25/94, Harriet Healy 4/5/94, Gay Bradley Wright 2/5/96, Elizabeth Heppner [McIntosh] 11/3/93, Elizabeth (Betty) Kubler 9/26/94, Anne Hastings (granddaughter of Madame Saint-Ange) 9/30/94, Lizabeth Nicol 8/3/94. Philadelphia Cousins 3/31/95, Suzanne Patterson 5/24/93, Mark DeVoto 12/14/94. Karen Walker interview with Elisabeth Brassart 2/9/95 and Darthea Speyer 1/31/97.
Correspondence: Shakurra Amatulla to NRF, 7/7/96; JC to editor of Life International, 12/18/51 (on poor administration of Cordon Bleu); LB to JC, 10/3/82 (courtesy Peter Kump); Joseph C. Sloane to NRF, 1/13/95 and 7/19/95; Catharine (Kitty) Carton Smith to NRF, 1/31/95; JC to Jeffrey Meyers, 10/4/84; Helen Milbank to JC, 10/4/82 (courtesy Peter Kump).
Archives: Schlesinger: PC letter-diary to CC, 1950–53; correspondence JC, SB, LB, AD, FC, Madame Brassart (3/28/51), Max Bugnard, Betty and George Kubler; JC, “L’Histoire de la Chef Française” (2-page typescript MS); typescript menus of “French cooking school;” copies Embassy News; “History of Our Relations with Ives Washburn,” 12/30/52; Beck and Bertholle manuscripts; transcript of Foreign Service Spouse Oral History, 11/7/91. Cordon Bleu, Paris: records and publications (Le Cordon Bleu Revue Illustrée de Cuisine Pratique et des Arts Ménagers, vols. 16, 26, 37). Private: datebooks of JC and PC, 1948–53; JC/PC vacation correspondence; AD, “Memoir About Julia,” 10/16/88 (courtesy Mark DeVoto); Peter Kump video of Bramafam and Simone Beck. Beinecke: correspondence PC and Richard E. Myers.
Published Sources
“a horrifying chore”: JC, From JC’s Kitchen, 153. The first account of the fish pounding for mousse, which she mailed to “Bien Maître” Bugnard: JC, “It Took 11 GIs, Girl to Make Fish Cakes,” Boston Globe (Feb. 13, 1964): clipping.
“you would have to pass”: JC, “Cooking with Julia: A Soulful Chicken Soup,” Food & Wine (Jan. 1995): 30.
“delicately known as”: Frances Levison, “First, Peel an Eel,” Life International (Dec. 13, 1964): 83.
“first-class feasting”: Catharine Reynolds, “Paris Journal: One Hundred Years of Le Cordon Bleu,” Gourmet (Jan. 1995): 53.
“One of the reasons I married her”: Grey Stevens, “Ivan and Dorothy,” San Francisco Sunday Examiner & Chronicle (Oct. 11, 1981): 32.
“one of the great encounters”: Michael James, “Simca Beck—Master of The Art of French Cooking; An Affectionate Portrait,” Food & Wine (June 1987): 108.
“a tall blonde”: JC, “Introduction” to SB with Suzanne Patterson, Food & Friends: Recipes and Memories from Simca’s Cuisine (NY: Viking, 1991).
“instant chef”: John L. Hess and Karen Hess, The Taste of America (NY: Grossman, 1977): 191.
“I had there”: Julian Street, Where Paris Dines (NY: Doubleday, 1929): 51.
CHAPTER 12
MARSEILLES (1953–1954)
Unpublished Sources
Interviews: JC, Rosemary Manell 4/30/93, John L. Moore 5/20/94, Robert W. Duemling 1/11/95, Fisher and Debby Howe 9/28/94, Mark DeVoto 12/14/95, Paul Sheeline 2/26/94, Elizabeth (Betty) Kubler 9/26/94, Philip and Mary Hyman 6/18/95.
Correspondence: Nancy [White] Hector to NRF, 11/5/96; J. Roland Jacobs to NRF, 4/3/95; Howard B. Crotinger to NRF, 2/14/95 and 3/14/95; E. Lee Fairley to NRF, 5/11/93 and 6/5/95; Joseph C. Sloane to NRF, 11/13/95; JC to Paulette Chaix, 4/67; JC to Eleanor and Basil Summers, 2/14/54; AD to JC, 9/25/82 (courtesy Peter Kump); Nancy [White] Hector to NRF, 11/5/96.
Archives: Private: JC and PC datebooks and address books, 1953, 1954, 1955; AD, “Memoir About Julia,” 10/16/88 (courtesy Mark DeVoto); JC to DC correspondence (courtesy DC); 1950s Michelin Guides (courtesy Philip and Mary Hyman). Schlesinger: PC letter-diary to CC, 1953–55; correspondence JC, DC, SB, LB, MFKF, Katy Gates, and Paul Sheeline; Houghton Mifflin contracts and correspondence.
Published Sources
“moved through Europe”: Theodore H. White, In Search of History: A Personal Adventure (London: Cape, 1979): 356.
“Most people were scared”: Foreign Service Spouse Oral History, “An Interview with JC” (Nov. 7, 1991): 8.
“all copy from one another”: JC was using Escoffier’s 4th (1948) edition, Simca his 1900. For an English edition, see Auguste Escoffier, The Escoffier Cookbook (NY: Crown, 1969).
“an imperial look in her eye”: JC, From JC’s Kitchen (NY: Knopf, 1975): 20.
“To choose bouillabaisse”: Raymond Oliver, Gastronomy of France, trans. Claude Durrell (Cleveland: World Publishing, 1967): 163.
“Populist … an honorable word”: Arthur M. Schlesinger, Jr., “The Citizen,” Four Portraits and One Subject: Bernard DeVoto (Boston: Houghton Mifflin, 1963): 41.
CHAPTER 13
A LITTLE TOWN IN GERMANY (1954–1956)
Unpublished Sources
Interviews: JC, LB 7/12/92, Rosemary Manell 4/30/93, John L. Moore 5/20/94, Mark DeVoto 12/14/94.
Correspondence: Lyne S. Few to NRF, 4/20/95; E. Lee Fair
ley to NRF, 5/11/95 and 6/5/95; Freifrau Dorothea von Stetten to NRF, 7/28/96 and 9/5/96; Fitz Hier to NRF, 8/7/96; Martha Culbertson to NRF, 3/18/95; James M. McDonald to NRF, 5/10/96 and 6/10/96.
Archives: CIA, U.S. Depts. of State and Justice (latter still pending), and USIA (“file routinely destroyed in January 1986,” letter to NRF, 6/7/93). Schlesinger: PC letter-diary to CC (their only surviving correspondence of the Bonn years is the period from 6/56 through 10/56); correspondence JC, AD, SB, LB, Jane Foster (10/15/55), Hadley Mowrer. Private: JC and PC 1954–56 datebooks, PC to JC correspondence April 1955; AD, “Memoir About Julia,” 10/16/88 (courtesy Mark DeVoto). Smith College: JC, transcript of Smith Oral History (10/16/72): 25–21. Beinecke: correspondence PC and Richard Myers.
Published Sources
“snuggled along the curve”: Theodore H. White at Large: The Best of His Magazine Writing 1939–1986, ed. Edward T. Thompson (NY: Pantheon, 1992): 188. White’s comparison between Bonn and Cambridge, MA: In Search of History: A Personal Adventure (London: Cape, 1979): 314.
“a wrinkled mummy”: White at Large, 318.
“secret war”: R. Harris Smith, OSS: The Secret History of America’s First Central Intelligence Agency (Berkeley: Univ. of California, 1972): 366. The “hysteria,” says David Caute, led to 10 dismissals and 273 resignations between May 1953 and June 1955: The Great Fear: Anti-Communist Purge Under Truman and Eisenhower (NY: Simon & Schuster, 1978): 246, 307, 315.
“ignorance … existed largely”: Robert McNamara, with Brian VanDeMark, In Retrospect: The Tragedy and Lessons of Vietnam (NY: Random House, 1995): 32–33.