Appetite for Life
Page 70
“the golden age of food processing”: Harvey Levenstein, Paradox of Plenty: A Social History of Eating in Modern America (NY: Oxford, 1993): 101.
CHAPTER 14
BACK HOME (AND COOKING) ON THE RANGE (1956–1958)
Unpublished Sources
Interviews: JC, DC 3/9/94, Francis Myer Brennan 10/7/93, John L. Moore 5/20/94, Helen Kirkpatrick Milbank 9/19/95, Robert M. Duemling 1/11/95, Stuart and Rosalind Rockwell 9/30/94, Fisher and Debby Howe 9/28/94, I. Guy Martin 9/30/94, Zanne Early Stewart 11/15/96. Group interview with Erica Prud’homme, Rachel Child, Jonathan Child 9/17/93.
Correspondence: Lyne S. Few to NRF, 4/28/95; John L. Moore to NRF, 9/14/94; E. Lee Fairley to NRF, 5/11/95.
Archives: Private: JC datebooks 1956, 1957, 1958; copies of PC’s government records, 8/57; Charles F. Whiting, “Development of the Communities of Francis Avenue and the Norton Estate,” Cambridge, MA, 3/66; AD, “Memoir About Julia,” 10/16/88 (courtesy Mark DeVoto). Schlesinger: correspondence of JC, AD, JC, SB, and William Koshland; Houghton Mifflin contractual matters; mss. of JC’s cooking classes; PC to CC, 11/56—4/59. USIA: #93–2375 (1993).
Published Sources
“despised”: David C. Acheson, Acheson Country: A Memoir (NY: Norton, 1983): 201.
“precooked frozen gourmet glop”: John L. Hess and Karen Hess, Taste in America (NY: Grossman, 1977): 62–63.
“Splendid Nitze”: PC, Bubbles from the Spring (n.p.: Antique Press, 1974): [28]. When published the poem was entitled “A Chime to Be Pealed Upon a Pentapolloi Carillon.”
“Station Wagon Way of Life”: Harvey Levenstein, Paradox of Plenty (NY: Oxford, 1993): 101, 137.
“gruesome”: AD’s 1957 letter to JC (about diet books) is quoted at length in Levenstein, Paradox of Plenty, 136.
“adult version of baby formula”: Levenstein, Paradox of Plenty, 137.
“trade-offs, favors”: Robert Clark, James Beard: A Biography (NY: HarperCollins, 1993): 143.
“Elegance of Cuisine”: Craig Claiborne, “Elegance Is on Wane in U.S.,” New York Times (April 13, 1959): 1.
“This nation is more interested”: quoted by Claiborne (above) and in Clark, Beard, 188.
CHAPTER 15
“I AM AT HEART A VIKING” (1959–1961)
Unpublished Sources
Interviews: JC, Fisher and Debra Howe 9/28/94, Erica Prud’homme 9/22/94, Rachel Child 2/24/94, Anita Hinckley Hovey 5/25/94, Mari and Peter Bicknell 3/21/94, Gay Bradley Wright 2/5/96, William Koshland 10/8/93, Judith Jones 10/7/83, Mark DeVoto 12/14/94, John L. Moore 5/20/94, Robert M. Duemling 1/11/95, Karen Hess 12/1/95, Jacques Pépin 12/5/95, Barbara Ketcham Wheaton 11/17/93.
Correspondence: Bjorn and Eline Egge to NRF, 3/3 95 and 5/30/95; Jens P. Heyerdahl to NRF, 3/1/95; Lyne S. Few to NRF, 4/20/95; Froydis Dietrichson to NRF, 5/23/95 and 6/7/95; Mrs. Edward (Margie) Schodt to NRF, 2/6/95 and 2/25/95; Judith Jones to NRF, 12/3/96.
Archives: Private: JC’s datebooks for 1959, 1960, 1961 (largely abandoned, only a few weeks with notations); McWilliams letters DC, JC, and “Pop and Phila” (courtesy DC); AD, “Memoir About Julia,” 10/16/88 (courtesy Mark DeVoto). Schlesinger: correspondence JC, SB, AD, Judith Jones, CC/FC, Houghton Mifflin, William Koshland; PC letter-diary to CC is voluminous during 1959–61. Knopf business is housed both with the JC Papers, Schlesinger, and in the Knopf Archives, Univ. of Texas. WGBH: “A Taste of Norway” (video), 1992.
Published Sources
“you have to know”: JC, “That Lunch in Rouen,” New York Times (May 16, 1993): 16.
“woolen”: Eduard J. Linehan, “Norway: Land of the Generous Sea,” National Geographic (July 1971): 1.
“I am at heart”: “A Taste of Norway,” Morash Productions (video), 1992.
“To La Belle”: JC, SB, LB, Mastering the Art of French Cooking (NY: Knopf, 1961): v. Paul had begun the dedication “Vive La Belle France,” but Jones changed it to “To.”
CHAPTER 16
LAUNCHING THE BOOK (1961–1962)
Unpublished Sources
Interviews: JC, William Koshland 10/8/93, Judith Jones 10/7/93, Narcisse Chamberlain 9/7/94, Gregory Usher 7/2/93, Erica Prud’homme 9/22/94, Barbara Ketcham Wheaton 11/17/93, Paul Sheeline 2/26/94, Mimi Sheraton 12/3/95; Ruth Lockwood 5/7/93, 12/18/94, and 1/30/97, Russell and Marian Morash 12/14/94, David H. Bain 8/10/93, Patricia and Herbert Pratt 5/24/94 and 12/12/94, Edward Martin 8/11/93, Robert Buckeye 8/11/93, Catherine and John Kenneth Galbraith 8/9/93, Emily (Wendy) Beck 4/12/96, André Soltner 11/2/96 (French Culinary Institute Escoffier conference), Betty Rosbottom 1/18/97, Paula Wolfert 1/25/97, David O. Ives 1/29/97. Joan Reardon interview with JC, fall 1987. Barbara Sims-Bell interview with JC, 7/1/89.
Correspondence: Rachel [Prud’homme] Child to Peter Kump, 10/4/82; Russell Morash to JC, 10/5/82; Narcisse Chamberlain to JC, 10/2/82 (courtesy Peter Kump); James Beard to Knopf, 10/12/61; Peter Davison to NRF, 1/15/96; Joan Brewster to NRF, 3/14/95; Henry Becton (WGBH) to Linda Koch Lorimer, 10/9/96; Marian C. Schlesinger to NRF, 3/7/97; E. S. Yntema to NRF, 2/1/97; Judith Jones to NRF, 3/5/97.
Archives: Schlesinger: correspondence JC, DC, SB, James Beard, LB, Judith Jones, AD, William Koshland (Knopf), WGBH, Ruth Lockwood, James Beard, Helen Evans Brown; JC to SB 9/29/91 recalls the first time they made the Reine de Saba cake. Private: McWilliams family letters and memoirs, courtesy DC; AD, “Memoir About Julia,” 10/16/88 (courtesy Mark DeVoto). Middlebury College: Bread Loaf files, correspondence PC, Paul Cubeta, and AD. Smith College: Smith Oral History.
Published Sources
“O Julia, Julia”: PC, Bubbles from the Spring (n.p.: Antique Press, 1974) [38].
“[T]he most comprehensive,”: Craig Claiborne, “Cookbook Review: Glorious Recipes,” New York Times Oct. 18, 1961.
“he made it his role”: Evan Jones, Epicurean Delight: The Life and Times of James Beard (NY: Knopf, 1990): 258.
“Reine de Saba”: JC, Mastering the Art of French Cooking (NY: Knopf, 1961): 677–78.
“I adore both women”: James Beard, Love and Kisses & a Halo of Truffles: Letters to Helen Evans Brown, ed. John Ferrone (NY: Arcade, 1994): 299 [Dec. 16, 1961].
“the worst”: Beard, Love and Kisses, 300.
“Paul was such a perfectionist”: James Wood, “Greater Tuna Salad,” San Francisco Examiner (Nov. 4, 1990): line-type 189–92.
“flipped when she saw”: José Wilson, “Christmas Bound,” House & Garden (Dec. 1961): 21, 196.
“one of the most satisfactory”: Naomi Barry, International Herald Tribune (March 26, 1962): 8.
“the most lucid volume”: Craig Claiborne, “How to Cook by the Book” Saturday Evening Post (Dec. 22–29, 1962): 74.
“lack[ing] a certain”: Sheila Hibben, “Briefly Noted,” New Yorker (Oct. 28, 1961): 207.
“Child, Beck, and Bertholle”: Raymond Sokolov, Why We Eat: What We Eat (NY: Summit, 1991): 94–95.
“No previous”: Evan Jones, American Food: The Gastronomic Story (Woodstock, NY: Overlook Press, 1991): 178.
“What JC did”: Camille Paglia quoted in Christopher Lydon, “Queen Julia,” The Improper Bostonian (March 27–April 9, 1996): 12.
“A JC job”: Robert Clark, James Beard: A Biography (NY: HarperCollins, 1993): 205.
“so complicated”: MFKF, Conversations with M. F. K. Fisher, ed. David Lazar (Jackson: Univ. Press of Mississippi, 1992): 102.
“academic tribal reservation”: Robert Manning, The Swamp Root Chronicle: Adventures in the World of Trade (NY: Norton, 1992): 312.
“a carbuncle of cabals”: Wallace Stegner, The Uneasy Chair: A Biography of Bernard DeVoto (Garden City, NY: Doubleday, 1954): 214.
“brother and sister”: Jones, Epicurean Delight, 272.
CHAPTER 17
LET THEM EAT QUICHE (1963–1964)
Unpublished Sources
Interviews: JC, David O. Ives 1/29/97, Elizabeth (Betty) Kubler 9/26/94, Russell and Marian Morash 12/14/94, Ruth Lockwood 5/7/93 and 12/18/94, Charlotte Snyder Turgeon 5/23/94, Charles Williams
2/21/95, Barbara Kafka 9/22/94, Jeffrey Steingarten 10/29/96, Barbara Ketcham Wheaton 11/17/93, Mari and Peter Bicknell 3/21/94, Jean deSola Pool 4/19/96. Group interview with Barbara Ketcham Wheaton and Barbara Haber 12/94. Barbara Sims-Bell interview with JC 7/1/89.
Correspondence: Marian Morash to JC, 10/5/82; Lizbeth Fisher to NRF, 2/17/95; Peter Davison to NRF, 1/15/96; Jack Savenor to JC, 10/1/82 (courtesy Peter Kump).
Archives: Schlesinger: correspondence of JC, SB, LB, AD, James Beard, Helen Evans Brown, Elizabeth David, and Ruth Norman; PC letter-diary to CC, 1963–64; mss. of The French Chef programs, JC to WGBH 4/26/62 (initial proposal). WGBH: tapes of The French Chef TVFN (Sue B. Huffman): tapes of James Beard, Dione Lucas, and JC TV shows. Private: JC and PC datebooks, 1963, 1964. AD, “Memoir About Julia,” 10/16/88 (courtesy Mark DeVoto). Smith College: JC oral history transcript, 10/10/72.
Published Sources
“the forces of art and reason”: Lewis Lapham, “Everyone’s in the Kitchen with Julia,” Saturday Evening Post (Aug. 8–15, 1964): 20.
“I rushed through that program”: JC, The French Chef Cookbook (NY: Knopf, 1975): xii.
“Mrs. Child … thinks”: Lapham, Saturday Evening Post, 21.
“The best free lunch”: Alyne E. Model, “JC and Her Runaway Blender,” Boston (May 1966): 31–34.
“quiet persistence”: Elizabeth David, “Capability’s Child,” The Spectator (Nov. 1, 1963): clipping.
“As long as I can get”: Michael Barrier, “Food for Thought,” Nation’s Business (Dec. 1989): 34.
“from professors to policemen”: TV Guide (Aug. 22–28, 1964): 9.
“more men than women”: Fred Storm, “Cook’s Night In,” San Francisco News Call Bulletin (Feb. 4, 1965): 32.
“possesses none”: Lapham, Saturday Evening Post, 21.
“television’s most reliable”: Terrence O’Flaherty, “Miss Bavarian Cream,” San Francisco Chronicle (Sept. 30, 1964): 43.
“She’s like a fairy godmother”: Jane Harriman, “This Fairy Godmother Waves a Neat Spatula,” Boston Sunday Globe (April 28, 1963): 26A.
“to turn Boston”: “Plain and Fancy,” Newsweek (July 25, 1963): 77.
“Child’s predecessors” and “a droll six-footer”: Robert Clark, James Beard: A Biography (NY: HarperCollins, 1993): 211, 212.
“began to sag”: JC, From JC’s Kitchen (NY: Knopf, 1975): 192.
“She provokes a rating”: “How to Sell Broccoli, Time (March 20, 1964): 56.
“many requests”: Jane Benet, “Look at the French Chef,” San Francisco Chronicle (Nov. 13, 1963): F7.
CHAPTER 18
PROVENÇAL WINTERS (1965–1967)
Unpublished Sources
Interviews: JC, DC, Mimi Sheraton 12/3/95, Barbara Kafka 9/22/94, Emily (Wendy) Beck 3/96, France Thibault 6/8/94, Jean-François Thibault 6/3–4/93, Kathie Alex 7/11/93, Elizabeth (Betty) Kubler 9/26/94, Philadelphia Cousins 3/31/95, Jean deSola Pool 4/19/96, Anne Willan 7/25/93, Ruth Lockwood 12/18/94, Judith Jones 10/7/93, Harriet Healy 5/5/96, Ailene Martin Berrard 6/8/94, Douwe Yntema 4/96, Fisher Howe 9/28/94, John L. Moore 5/20/94, Charlotte Snyder Turgeon 5/23/94, Charles Williams 2/21/95, Michael Hargraves 3/27/96, Joan Reardon 4/28/96, Peter Kump 9/22/94, Patricia and Herbert Pratt 5/24/94.
Correspondence: Lyne S. Few to NRF, 4/28/94 and 5/9/95; Martha Culbertson to NRF, 3/18/95; Peter Davison to NRF, 1/15/96; Peter and Mari Bicknell to NRF, 3/21/94; Sally Bicknell Miall to NRF, 4/4/94; Joseph C. Sloane to NRF, 11/13/95, Helen Kirkpatrick Milbank to JC, 10/4/82 (courtesy Peter Kump); MFKF to JC, 9/9/82 (courtesy Fisher estate).
Archives: Schlesinger: PC letter-diary to CC, 1956–67; correspondence JC, Ruth Norman, Judith Jones, AD, and MFKF; AD notes on her trip to Provence, 1/3/67; Knopf business. Beinecke: Robert Penn Warren and Eleanor Clark Papers. Private: datebooks of JC and PC, 1965, 1966, 1967; family scrapbooks (courtesy JC and DC); correspondence JC and Michael Field; Peter Kump video of Bramafam and SB, 8/24–25/90 (courtesy Christopher Kump); Michael Field ms. (courtesy Jean-François Thibault).
Published Sources
“I’m tough and I speak”: Quoted in Betty Fussell, Masters of American Cookery (NY: Times, 1983): 52.
“educational TV’s answer”: Joan Barthel, “How to Avoid TV Dinners While Watching TV,” New York Times Magazine (Aug. 7, 1996): 30.
“hamming it up”: Jane Howard, “Close-Up: JC, the Master Chef: Hamming It Up in the Haute Cuisine,” Life (Oct. 21, 1966): 45.
“last year alone” and “our lady of the ladle”: “Everyone’s in the Kitchen” (cover), Time (Nov. 25, 1966): 74.
“watershed”: Robert Clark, James Beard: A Biography (NY: HarperCollins, 1993): 226.
“French cooking now rose”: Harvey Levenstein, Revolution at the Table (NY: Oxford, 1988): 206.
“the nation’s greatest”: Jeremy MacLancy, Consuming Culture (London: Chapmans, 1992): 188.
“The same working mother”: Walter Kiechel III, “Two-Income Families Will Reshape the Consumer Markets,” Fortune (March 10, 1980): 119, cited in Levenstein, 210.
“the stakes in food writing”: Clark, Beard, 225.
“If it weren’t for Paul”: Howard, Life, 52.
“WGBH has to turn away”: Alyne E. Model, “JC and Her Runaway Blender,” Boston (May 1966): 32. p. 312 “Not since the late Gracie Allen”: Model, Boston, 31.
“JC is the Chuck Berry”: Tony Hendra, “The Heart and Soul of Toque ’n’ Roll,” Vanity Fair (June 1993): 88.
“119 black-and-white programs”: According to her records, 134 shows were taped. The first 13 were never saved, but 12 of the recipes were redone. One tape was “wiped” (“Bringing in the New Year”) and several were repeated (e.g., “Bûche de Noël”).
“‘JC’ … is actually”: Paul Levy, Out to Lunch (NY: Harper & Row, 1986): 205.
“I’m part of the iceberg”: Mary Daniels, “A Supercook and Her Superman,” Chicago Tribune (Aug. 20, 1977): 3.
“the tradition of Brillat-Savarin”: Joan Reardon, MFKF, JC, and Alice Waters: Celebrating the Pleasures of the Table (NY: Harmony, 1994): xiii.
“Like most other humans”: MFKF, “Foreword,” The Gastronomical Me (1943), in The Art of Eating (NY: World, 1954): 353.
“penciled Betty Grable brows”: Molly O’Neill, “Wishes and Reminiscences from a Culinary Olympian,” New York Times (Feb. 28, 1990): B1, 6.
CHAPTER 19
THE MEDIA ARE THE MESSAGE (1967–1968)
Unpublished Sources
Interviews: JC, Jean deSola Pool 4/19/96, Patricia and Herbert Pratt 5/24/94, Jean-François Thibault 6/3/93, France Thibault 6/8/94, Peter Kump 9/22/94, Kathie Alex 7/11/93, Ailene Martin Berrard 6/8/94, Emily (Wendy) Beck 4/96, William A. Truslow 4/20/95, William Koshland 10/8/93, Russell and Marian Morash 12/14/94, Ruth Lockwood 5/7/93, Philadelphia Cousins 3/31/95, Hélène Baltrusaitis 7/28/93.
Correspondence: Peggy Brown to JC, 10/5/82 (courtesy Peter Kump); Benjamin H. Brown to NRF, 4/10/96; Jane Owen Molard to NRF, 9/21/96; Judith Jones to NRF, 3/5/97.
Archives: Schlesinger: PC letter-diary to CC, 1967–68; correspondence of JC, SB, AD, MFKF, William Koshland and Knopf Publishers; ms. for “The White House Red Carpet;” mss. and business for The French Chef Cookbook. WGBH: “The White House Red Carpet.” Boston University: Conversation with JC and Jacques Pépin,” Boston University, 4/17/96. Private: JC and PC datebooks, 1967 and 1968.
Published Sources
“a raid on”: “The JC Way to Play Your Own Ready-Ahead Dinner,” Ladies’ Home Journal (Oct. 1967): 88.
“Simca is a great improvisationalist”: Michael James, Slow Food: Flavors and Memories of American’s Hometowns (NY: Warner Books, 1992): 41.
“a Roosevelt Democrat”: Christopher Lydon, “Queen Julia,” The Improper Bostonian (March 27–April 9, 1996): 14.
“culinary reputation”: JC, typescript for article on the White House for New York Times (Dec. 1, 1976): 1.
“Napalm” and “chaotic”: E. J. Kahn, Jr., Harvard: Through Change and Th
rough Storm (NY: Norton, 1969): 78, 375.
CHAPTER 20
CELEBRITY AND SOLITUDE (1968–1970)
Unpublished Sources
Interviews: JC, DC, Jacques Pépin 12/5/95, Judith Jones 10/7/93, Jean deSola Pool 4/19/96, Peter Kump 9/22/94, Karen Hess 12/1/95, Barbara Kafka 9/22/94, Mimi Sheraton 12/3/95, Clark Wolf 4/23/96, Jeffrey Steingarten 10/29/96, Lynne Rossetto Kasper 4/27/95.
Correspondence: JC to John White, 11/30/85; Judith Jones to NRF, 3/5/97.
Archives: Schlesinger: correspondence JC, SB, MFKF, James Beard, Narcisse and Samuel Chamberlain, Sybille Bedford, Madeleine Kamman (JC to Dorothy Crandall of the Boston Globe, on behalf of Kamman, 9/6/70), Gladys Christopherson; PC letter-diary to CC, 1968–70. Smith College: Oral History of JC, 10/10/72. Private: uncatalogued carbon copies of correspondence and menus of JC and SB related to Mastering II; datebooks of JC and PC, 1968, 1969, 1970.
Published Sources
“The only national television female”: Marya Mannes, TV Guide [1968] clipping.
“sour dough”: Hess (The Taste of America, 188) appears to equate sour dough with wild-yeast leavened bread. If there is any disagreement between Child and Hess, notes Steven Sullivan of the Acme Bread Company in Berkeley, it is both “semantic and substantive”: no one “invented” acidic bread, but “the American taste for highly acidic breads is revolutionary.”
“gay camp culture”: Robert Clark, James Beard: A Biography (NY: HarperCollins, 1993): 234.
“It’s a world of self-generating hysteria”: Nika Hazelton quoted by Nora Ephron’s September 1968 article in New York magazine, reprinted in her Wallflower at the Orgy (NY: Viking, 1980): 4.