Appetite for Life
Page 71
“French’s mustard people”: Ephron, Wallflower at the Orgy, 5, 7–8.
“Julia is essentially”: PC quoted by Edith Efron, “Dinner with JC,” TV Guide (Dec. 5, 1979): 48.
“nutritional terrorism”: Harvey Levenstein, Paradox of Plenty (NY: Oxford, 1993): 160.
CHAPTER 21
RIDING THE SECOND WAVE (1970–1974)
Unpublished Sources
Interviews: JC, Jean deSola Pool 4/19/96, Karen Hess 12/1/95, Jacques Pépin 12/5/95, Marc Meneau 5/94, Peter Kump 9/22/94, Richard Olney 6/26/95, Patricia and Herbert Pratt 5/24/94, Carol and B. J. Cutler 7/94, Sally [Bicknell] Miall 3/25/94, Anne Willan 7/25/93, Jane Friedman 10/31/96, Judith Jones 10/7/93, William A. Truslow 4/20/95, Jan Weimer 1/94, Philadelphia Cousins 3/31/95, Paul Levy 3/22/94, Sylvia and Jacques Delécluse 7/95, Mimi Sheraton 12/3/95, Russell Morash 12/14/94, Ruth Lockwood 5/7/93, Rosemary Manell 4/30/93. Madeleine Kamman refused an interview, but the written record of her correspondence with JC is housed at the Schlesinger. Barbara Sims-Bell interview with JC, 7/1/89.
Correspondence: Sally Miall to NRF, 4/4/94; Susan Jacobson to NRF, 7/9/96; Richard S. Mowrer to NRF, 2/21/95; Grant C. Thompson to NRF, 7/9/96; Sharon Thompson to NRF, 9/24/96; Jan W. Dietrichson to NRF, 5/23/95; Carol Cutler to NRF, 4/13/95; Susan M. Rogers to NRF, 8/14/96; Judith Jones to NRF, 3/5/97.
Archives: Schlesinger: PC letter-diary to CC, 1970–74; correspondence JC, SB, LB, Anne Willan, Elizabeth David, Waverley Root, WGBH, Alfred A. Knopf Publishers, Elizabeth David, Hill & Barlow, Craig Claiborne, and Madeleine Kamman. Private: correspondence related to BBC-TV, 1970s. American Heritage Center: James Beard Correspondence. Beinecke: Francis Brennan and Richard Myers Papers, Robert Penn Warren and Eleanor Clark Papers.
Published Sources
“continuation”: JC, Mastering the Art of French Cooking II (NY: Knopf, 1970): viii.
“Volume I was mud-pie stuff”: Gael Greene, “Julia’s Moon Walk with French Bread,” Life (Oct. 70): 8.
“heralded like the second coming”: Nika Hazelton, “Genghis Khan’s Sauerkraut and Other Edibles,” New York Times Book Review (Dec. 6, 1970): 96.
“daunting book”: Raymond A. Sokolov, Newsweek (Nov. 9, 1970): 94.
“He loved the skullduggery”: Quoted by Geraldine Baum, “Cooking in the Kitchen with Jim,” Los Angeles Times Magazine (Nov. 1, 1996): A25.
“One of the good things”: Calvin Tomkins, “Profiles: Good Cooking,” New Yorker (Dec. 23, 1974): 50.
“birthday queen”: PC, Bubbles from the Spring (n.p.: Antique Press, 1974): [41].
“On the Trail”: Bill Krauss, “On the Trail of JC,” International Herald Tribune (March 1971): clipping. See PC to Bill Krauss, March 18, 1971 (Schlesinger): “Now, God damn it, you’ve blown our cover.”
“A Big Child”: Terrence O’Flaherty, “The Perils of Julia,” San Francisco Chronicle (Oct. 6, 1972): 44.
“the lady unleashed” and “Julia breathes hard”: Greene, Life, 8.
“glid[ing] around her oversized studio kitchen”: Philip Nobile, “JC: An Offbeat Chef,” Pasadena Star-News (Nov. 13, 1972): 1.
“Perhaps for the same reason”: Don Stanley, “There was this woman splashing eggs about …” [1970]: clipping.
“our books”: Money (Oct. 1972): 58.
“nothing but calories”: JC quoted in “Ratings from the Gourmets” (cover), “The Burger That Conquered the Country,” Time (Sept. 17, 1973): 86.
“to find something positive”: Karen Hess and John Hess, The Taste of America (NY: Grossman, 1977): 199.
“McDonald’s is good fare”: Frederick J. Stare, MD, “Letter to the Editor,” Time (Oct. 8, 1973): 10. Stare was chairman of Harvard’s Department of Nutrition.
“Deprived by this rejection”: Paul Levy, Out to Lunch (NY: Harper & Row, 1986): 205.
“in response to criticism”: John Mariani with Alex von Bidder, The Four Seasons: A History of America’s Premier Restaurant (NY: Crown, 1994): 120.
“unique blend”: Tomkins, New Yorker, 48, 50.
CHAPTER 22
A TIME OF LOSS (1974–1977)
Unpublished Sources
Interviews: JC, DC, Judith Jones 10/7/93, Betty Rosbottom 1/23/97, Rosemary Manell 4/30/93, Jacques Pépin 12/5/95, Ruth Lockwood 5/7/93, Pamela Henstell 5/10/93, Rachel Child 2/24/94, Charlotte Snyder Turgeon 5/23/94, Richard Graff 2/2/96, Narcisse Chamberlain 9/7/94, Anne Willan and Mark Cherniavsky 7/25/93, Steven Raichlen 12/18/95, Douglas Dutton 4/96, Natale Rusconi 5/31/94, Faith Heller Willinger 6/7/94, Mimi Sheraton 12/3/95, Karen Hess 12/1/95, Gregory Usher 7/2/93, Paul and Sandra Sheeline 2/26/94, Zanne Early Stewart 11/15/96, Peter Kump 9/22/94, Barbara Kafka 9/22/94, Susy Davidson 2/25/94, Jeffrey Steingarten 10/29/96.
Correspondence: Corinne Pool to NRF, 2/28/94; Pat Brown Clopper to NRF, 7/29/96; JC to Harriet Healy, 7/11/75, 6/12/75, 9/24/76, and 2/23/76; Craig Alan Wilson to NRF, 11/13/96; JC to Henri Gault and Christian Millau, 4/13/76; JC to Peter Kump, 6/11/77.
Archives: Schlesinger: correspondence, PC to CC (infrequent because of PC’s aphasia), JC, SB, LB, Craig Claiborne, MFKF, AD, CC and FC, Elizabeth David, Helen McCully, Anne Willan/Mark Cherniavsky, Robert H. Johnson, Alfred A. Knopf Publishers, Richard Graff, Shirley Sarvis, Narcisse Chamberlain; the Hess file; JC book and article manuscripts. Beinecke: Francis and Hank Brennan, Richard Myers Papers. Private: Family medical records, JC and PC datebooks, 1974–77; mss. of JC’s McCall’s reviews, itineraries, JC and DC correspondence (courtesy DC).
Published Sources
“departed from the professorial”: Bill Rice, “Julia and Simca: An Enduring Entente,” Washington Post (Oct. 3, 1974): HI.
“personal [and] no less precise”: Mimi Sheraton, “The Best Cookbooks of 1975,” New York (Nov. 24, 1975): 100.
“wonderfully sensuous”: Gail Jennes, “Couple” (cover), People (Dec. 1, 1975): 51.
“just that Paris PR game,”: John Kifner, “The New French Food Revolution? Julia Child Says ‘Humph,’” New York Times (Sept. 5, 1975): L12.
“This food looks fingered”: Stephen Wadsworth, “Julia Sums Up,” Dial (1980): 23.
“the apparent culinary equivalent”: Robert Clark, James Beard: A Biography (NY: HarperCollins, 1993): 290.
“they might see Fannie Farmer”: Laura Shapiro, Perfection Salad: Women and Cooking at the Turn of the Century (NY: Farrar, Straus & Giroux, 1986): 231.
“Obviously somebody was pulling”: JC, “‘La Nouvelle Cuisine’: A Skeptic’s View,” New York (July 4, 1977): 32.
“I never have anything to do with housewives”: quoted in Walter Blum, “The Joy of Julia,” California Living (April 28, 1974): 23.
“We never talk about women”: Quoted Wadsworth, Dial, 23.
“gone into restaurant work”: “Julia at 80: With Christopher Lydon” (1992), WGBH video.
“it wasn’t until”: Interview, TV Guide (Dec. 5, 1970): 46. Repeated in video of Valley Hunt Club speech.
“no feminist”: Helen Civelli Brown, “Topic-hopping with JC,” San Francisco Examiner (Dec. 4, 1975): 29.
“No. I’m from a different generation”: Curtis Hartman and Steven Raichlen, “JC: The Boston Magazine Interview,” Boston (April 1981): 78.
“is a symbol of women’s liberation”: Brown, San Francisco Examiner, 29.
“the Women’s Liberation Movement”: John Mariani, America Eats Out (NY: Morrow, 1991): 217.
“Western philosophers”: Deane W. Curtin and Lisa M. Hendke, Cooking, Eating, Thinking: Transformation Philosophies of Food (Bloomington: Indiana Univ. Press, 1992): xiii.
“I guess I am liberated”: “Are Liberated Women Happier?” San Francisco Examiner (Sept. 4, 1975): 23.
“public caterwauling” and “packaging”: JC, “A White House Menu,” New York Times Magazine (Jan. 16, 1977): 57.
“a vituperative and angry critique”: Clark, Beard, 291. Their book, says Clark, illustrates “the Hesses’ own immersion in the bitchery and petty subculture they claimed to deplore,” 272.
“gourmet plague”: John L. Hess and Karen Hess, The Taste of America (NY: Grossman, 1977): 152.
“French cuisine in America”: Karen Hess, “The Gourmet Plague,” Atlantic (Aug. 1977): 62.
“I’d rather eat them than airline food”: Curtis and Raichlen, Boston, 83.
“after a crash course”: Hess and Hess, The Taste of America, 191. JC wrote to her friend Robert Manning, the editor of Atlantic, that “Mrs. Hess’s brutal public flogging is too sadistic for enjoyment.” George Lang responded on Jan. 3, 1978 (with a copy to JC), to the Hesses’ “Palate, Politics and Puffery” in Politicks & Other Human Interests (Oct. 25, 1977): 26.
“the older we get”: Beverley Jackson, “Dinner with JC,” Santa Barbara News-Press (Jan. 9, 1977): D4.
“It’s gotten much more expensive”: Clifford A. Ridley, “La Cuisine? La Julia!” National Observer (May 1, 1976): 20.
CHAPTER 23
THE COMPANY SHE KEEPS (1977–1980)
Unpublished Sources
Interviews: JC, Russell and Marian Morash 12/14/94, Henry Becton, Jr., 1/21/97, Ruth Lockwood 5/7/93 and 12/18/94, E. S. (Peggy) Yntema 4/20/95, Betty Rosbottom 12/7/96, Anne Willan 7/25/93, Patricia and Herbert Pratt 5/24/94, Sara Moulton 9/23/94, Janice Goldklang 9/23/94, Jane Friedman 10/31/96, Pamela Henstell 5/10/93, Stephanie Hersh 11/29/94, Maggie Mah 2/4/96, Rosemary Manell 4/30/93, Richard Graff 2/2/96, Jacques Pépin 12/5/95 and 8/31/96, Nancy Verde Barr 12/13/95. Barbara Sims-Bell interview with JC 7/1/89.
Correspondence: Dorothea Freifrau von Stetten to NRF, 7/28/96; Catherine Gewertz to NRF, 7/9/96; Alison Boteler to NRF, 9/15/93; E. S. Yntema to NRF, 2/1/97.
Archives: Schlesinger: PC letter-diary to CC (intermittent), 1977–80; mss. and correspondence related to & Company books and TV programs; contracts with ABC; correspondence JC, MFKF, SB, AD, James Beard, E. S. (Peggy) Yntema (contract letter, 12/23/77), Madeleine Kamman, Elizabeth David, Rosemary Manell, Marian Morash, and Shirley Sarvis. Private: JC datebooks and records; correspondence JC and DC (courtesy DC). Broadway Video: NBC’s SNL, 12/9/78 (courtesy Mike Bosey). Alfred A. Knopf: JC promotion itineraries (courtesy Pamela Henstell).
Published Sources
“a child who”: Jeannette Ferrary, “Julia—Child of Our Times” [review of JC & Company]: clipping.
“I don’t think”: JC interview with Barbara Sims-Bell, July 1, 1989. By January 1978, the following numbers had sold: 803,455,000 copies of the two Mastering books (Vol. I accounted for 561,115); 259,870 French Chef Cookbook; 138,301 Kitchen (just pub.)—for a total of 1,201,626.
“I don’t do anything”: G. S. Boudain, “JC Is Stirring Up More Treats,” New York Times (Dec. 24, 1977): D27.
“Julia knows how”: Jack Shelton, “JC Knows How to Listen,” Focus, San Francisco’s KQED magazine (March 1980): 38.
“I learn something new”: Stephen Wadsworth, “Julia Sums Up,” Dial (1981): 24.
“I’d like to get some”: Nao Hauser, “JC: Her Life, Her Great Love, and Her Future,” Chicago Tribune (March 3, 1980): 4.
“alone worth the price”: Mimi Sheraton (review), New York Times Book Review (Dec. 3, 1978): 14.
“syncopated like jazz”: Hauser, Chicago Tribune, 4.
“She gives us”: Ferrary, clipping.
“She’s a serenely gawky”: Wadsworth, Dial, 21.
“rather eat a tablespoon”: Cathy Von Klemperer, “JC Returns to Hubbard House,” Daily Hampshire Gazette (April 11, 1978): clipping.
“She only liked food and men”: PC quoted by Hauser, Chicago Tribune, 4.
“As soon as you’re off television”: quoted in Corby Kummer, “Turning Points: JC,” Quest (1980): 104.
“We were awfully lucky”: Hauser, Chicago Tribune, 1.
“You can’t do nothin’”: Dan Aykroyd, Saturday Night Live, NBC, Dec. 9, 1978.
“use of her name”: “JC Sues Hotel on the Use of Her Name,” New York Times (April 5, 1984): III, 11.
“We just KILLED ourselves”: Wadsworth, Dial, 23.
“I’m [also] interested in the freshness”: Susan Rogers, “Food for Thought from JC,” New York Post (Feb. 18, 1972): 46.
CHAPTER 24
PACIFIC OVERTURES (1981–1984)
Unpublished Sources
Interviews: Interviews with JC, DC, Robert Huttenback 5/7/94, Richard Graff 2/2/96, Alice Waters 2/6/96, Dorothy Cann Hamilton 12/14/95, Mary Tonetti Dorra 5/6/94, Margrit Biever (Mondavi) 2/3/96, Maggie Mah 2/4/96, Rosemary Manell 4/30/93, Elizabeth (Betty) Kubler 9/26/94, Russell and Marian Morash 12/14/94, Ruth Lockwood 5/7/93, Charlotte Snyder Turgeon 5/23/94, Faith Heller Willinger 5/7/94, Nancy Verde Barr 12/13/95, Barbara Kafka 9/22/94, Mimi Sheraton 12/3/95, Dun Gifford 12/14/94, Roberta Klugman 5/7/94, Ken Frank 8/26/96, Wolfgang Puck 8/26/96, Barbara Sims-Bell, 9/6/96, George Trescher 10/29/96, Paul Levy 1/30/89, Marion Cunningham 2/9/96, Susy Davidson 2/25/94, Stephanie Hersh 11/29/94, Patricia Wells 9/4/95, Clark Wolf 4/23/96, Jane Bollinger 10/28/96, and Michael McCarty, 3/27/97. Betty Fussell interview with JC and PC 10/27/81. Barbara Sims-Bell interview with JC 10/27/81.
Correspondence: Paul Bohannan to NRF, 7/21/96; Jane Owen Molard to NRF, 9/21/96; Martha Culbertson to NRF, 3/18/95; Richard Graff to JC and others, 10/9/81; Barbara Pool Fenzl to NRF, 9/11/93.
Archives: Schlesinger: correspondence JC, SB, AD, LB, and James Beard; JC to SB, 11/6/76 (on recipes). AIWF, San Francisco: timeline, historical documents, charter, publications. Private: JC datebooks, 1981–84; JC to President and Mrs. Reagan, 4/14/84; JC files and records.
Published Sources
“could effectively lose weight”: Robert Clark, James Beard: A Biography (NY: HarperCollins, 1993): 175.
“slender hips”: Betty Fussell, typed notes of two-hour taping at ABC Studio, Oct. 27, 1981, for Masters of American Cookery (NY: Times, 1983).
“I do solemnly swear”: JC, “Recipes That Helped Me Lose 20 Pounds,” McCall’s (Oct. 1981): 54.
“Only Moses disrupting the Red Sea”: Judy Hevrdejs, “Julia at the Housewares Show,” Chicago Tribune (Jan. 22, 1981): Sec. 7, 3.
“most important assemblage”: Richard H. Graff, “Launching the Institute,” Journal of Gastronomy (Summer 1984): 112. Graff’s account is a brief summary.
“hanging ten on their own”: Charles Perry, “Grade ‘A’ Gourmets,” California Magazine (Feb. 1982): 27.
“Two of the best cooks”: Charles Perry, Laura Ochoa, and Irene Virbila’s cover story of the 25th anniversary of Chez Panisse, Los Angeles Times, Food section (Aug. 22, 1996): Al, H1-2, 8, 10.
“In the early 1980s”: Ruth Reichl, “And for Dinner? How About Fun?” New York Times (March 26, 1997): B1.
“We always have to be ready”: Michael S. Lasky, “And a Child Shall Lead Them,” Focus (Nov. 1982): 56–61.
“What are your plans”: the Dear Abby column ran in multiple cities, June 1982. JC requested that her lawyer, who collected all angry and threatening letters, send her all the Dear Abby/Planned Parenthood mail.
“slogging through viscous mud”: Michael Demarest, “Thoroughly American Julia,” Time (April 18, 1983): 78–79.
“Afro”: Barbara Hensen, “JC Acquires Fresh Image for Her New TV Series,” Los Angeles Times (June 9, 1983): VIII, 1.
“Shows her at her bubbly” and “in a wardrobe”: Michael Demarest, “Dinner at Julia’s,” United (Oct. 1983): 65, 66.
“convey a sense”: John J. O’Connor, “Dinner at Julia’s,” New York Times (Nov. 17, 1983): 27.
“cost $1,000 a week”: Phyllis C. Richman, “Making Dinner at Julia’s,” Washington Post (April 13, 1983): E1, 16. Other chefs appearing on Dinner at Julia’s were Brad Ogden (Kansas City), Leeslee Reiss (Chicago), Jean Claude (Dallas), and Yves Labbe (Miami).
“the dawning of a new age”: Harvey Steiman, “An Extravaganza of American Cuisine,” San Francisco Examiner (May 11, 1983): E1.
“A Summit of U.S. Cuisine”: Margaret Mallory, “A Summit of U.S. Cuisine,” San Francisco Tribune (May 11, 1983): clipping.
“an important part
… natural role as leaders”: William Rice quoted by Steiman, Examiner, E2.
“Chefs are on a par”: JC quoted by Steiman, Examiner, E2.
“the revolution in food”: Maggie Crum, “A Festival of Food & Wine,” Contra Costa Times (May 11, 1983): D2. Macy’s (where Julia gave cooking demonstrations that week), American Express, and Food & Wine magazine (a publication of AmEx) sponsored the “American Celebration,” May 3–5, 1983.
“a kind of Pearl Harbor”: Clark, Beard, 321–22.
“JC is … generous”: Ann Barr and Paul Levy, The Official Foodie Handbook (NY: Arbor House, 1984): 113.
“Party Chairman”: James Reginato, “Party Chairman,” W (Nov. 1995): 150.
“Two million dollars!”: Barr and Levy, Official Foodie Handbook, 107.
CHAPTER 25
SEASONED WITH LOVE (1985–1989)
Unpublished Sources
Interviews: JC, Alice Waters 2/6/96, Russell and Marian Morash 12/14/94 and 9/5/96, Judith Jones 10/28/96, George Trescher 10/29/96, Pamela Henstell 5/10/93, Dun Gifford 12/14/94, William A. Truslow 4/20/95, Jim Wood 3/10/94, Patricia and Herbert Pratt 5/24/94, Patricia Wells 9/4/95, Faith Heller Willinger 6/7/94, Charles Gibson 11/12/96, Kathleen Perry 9/11/96, Roberta Klugman 5/7/94, Dorothy Cann Hamilton 12/14/95, Philadelphia Cousins 3/31/95, Dun Gifford 12/14/94, Richard Graff 2/9/96, Clark Wolf 4/23/96, Robert Huttenback 5/7/94, Karen Berk 9/4/96, Mitzie Cutler 9/4/96, Mary Tonetti Dorra 5/6/94, Nancy Kirby Harris 4/26/96, Anne Willan and Mark Cherniavsky, Susy Davidson 2/25/94, Peter Kump 9/22/94, Jacques Pépin 12/5/95, Janice Goldklang 9/23/94, Rachel Child 11/1/96, Maggie Mah 2/4/96, Jane Friedman 10/31/96, Jane Bollinger 10/28/96, Kathie Alex 7/11/93, David Strada 1/10/97, Betty Rosbottom 1/16/97, Michael McCarty, 3/27/97.
Correspondence: Peter Davison to NRF, 1/15/96; Nancy Verde Barr to NRF, 9/9/96; George Gruenwald to NRF, 2/10/95 and 8/29/96; Jane Owen Molard to NRF, 9/21/96; JC to Barbara Pool Fenzl, 7/28/87 and 9/12/89; Barbara Pool Fenzl to NRF, 9/11/93; Susy Davidson to NRF, 9/10/96; George Gruenwald to Simone Beck, 2/8/89; JC to Peter Kump 2/21/86 and 4/29/86; JC to CC and Janou Walcutt 3/1/86, 7/7/86, and 1/89; JC to Harriet Healy 5/17/87; JC to Eleanor and Basil Summers, 1/86; Judith Jones to NRF, 3/5/97.