The Rituals of Dinner
Page 50
——. Hofische Tischzuchten. Berlin: E. Schmidt, 1957.
Toffin, G. Pyangaon, communauté newar de la vallée de Kathmandou: la vie materielle. Paris: C.N.R.S., 1977, Ch. 4.
Tolles, D. The Banquet-Libations of the Greeks. Ann Arbor, Mich.: Edwards, 1943.
Townsend, E. M. Latin American Courtesy. Mexico City: Summer Institute of Linguistics, 1961.
Trollope, F. Domestic Manners of the Americans (1832). Repr. New York: Vintage Books, 1960.
Trusler, J. The Honours of the Table … with the Whole Art of Carving (1791). Cork: Daly and Croker, 1804.
——. A System of Etiquette. Bath: W. Meyler, 1804.
Turnaturi, G. Gente Perbene: Cent’anni di Buone Maniere. Milan: SugarCo., 1988.
Turner, V. The Forest of Symbols: Aspects of Ndembu Ritual. Ithaca, N.Y.: Cornell University Press, 1967.
——. The Ritual Process. Chicago: Aldine, 1969.
Turney-High, H. H. “The Flathead Indians of Montana,” Memoirs of the American Anthropological Association, 48 (1937), 129.
——. “The Ethnography of the Kutenai,” Memoirs of the American Anthropological Association, 56 (1941), 122–25.
Van Baal, J. “Offering, Sacrifice and Gift,” Numen, 23 (1976), 161–78.
Vanderbilt, A. Amy Vanderbilt’s New Complete Book of Etiquette. New York: Doubleday, 1967.
Van Otterloo, A. H. “Foreign Immigrants and the Dutch at Table, 1945–1985. Bridging or Widening the Gap?” Netherlands Journal of Sociology, 23 (1987), 126–43.
Vennum, T., Jr. Wild Rice and the Ojibway People. St. Paul: Minnesota Historical Society Press, 1988.
Verdier, Y. Façons de dire, façons de faire. Paris: Gallimard, 1979.
Vergil (1st century B.C.). Aeneid, Books 3 and 7. Trans, by H. R. Fairclough, Loeb Classical Library. 2 vols. Cambridge, Mass.: Harvard University Press, 1947.
Vigée, C. “Le partage de la nuit pascale,” La Table et le partage. Rencontres de L’Ecole du Louvre. Paris: La Documentation française, 1986.
Villa, P., C. Bouville, et al. “Cannibalism in the Neolithic,” Science, 233 (1986), 431–33.
Visser, M. Much Depends on Dinner. Toronto: McClelland and Stewart, 1986.
Wagner, P. M. “Food as Ritual,” in S. M. Farber, N. L. Wilson, and R. H. L. Wilson, eds., Food and Civilization. Springfield, Ill.: Charles C. Thomas, 1966, pp. 60–82.
Walens, S. Feasting with Cannibals: An Essay on Kwakiutl Cosmology. Princeton, N.J.: Princeton University Press, 1981.
Walker, T. Aristology, or the Art of Dining. London: George Bell, 1835.
Ward, E. O Raree Show, O Pretty Show, or the City Feast, by the author of The London Spy (1704). Quoted by J. C. Drummond and A. Wilbraham in The Englishman’s Food. London: Jonathan Cape, 1939.
Waring, P. A Dictionary of Omens and Superstitions. London: Souvenir Press, 1978.
Watson, J. L. “From the Common Pot: Feasting with Equals in Chinese Society,” Anthropos, 82 (1988), 389–401.
Wecter, D. The Saga of American Society. New York: Scribners, 1937, Ch. 5.
Westman, H. O. The Spoon. New York: Harper, 1844.
Wheaton, B. K. Savoring the Past. Philadelphia: University of Pennsylvania Press, 1983.
Whiffen, T. The North-West Amazons. London: Constable, 1915.
White, L. A. “Etiquette,” in The Evolution of Culture. New York: McGraw-Hill, 1959, pp. 225–31.
White, T. E. “Observations on the Butchering Technique of Some Aboriginal Peoples,” American Antiquity, 17 (1952), 337–38; 19 (1953), 160–64; 19 (1954), 254–64; 21 (1955), 170–78.
Whiting, B.J. “The Vows of the Heron,” Speculum, 20 (1945), 261–78.
Whiting, J. W. M. and I. L. Child. Child Training and Personality: A Cross-Cultural Study. New Haven, Conn.: Yale University Press, 1953, esp. pp. 69–73.
Widdowson, J. D. A. “Food and Traditional Verbal Modes in the Social Control of Children,” in A. Fenton and T. M. Owen, eds., Food in Perspective. 1981, pp. 377–89.
Wildeblood, J. The Polite World. London: Oxford University Press, 1965.
Wilkinson, J. G. Manners and Customs of the Ancient Egyptians. 2 vols. London: Murray, 1978.
Williams, S. Savory Suppers and Fashionable Feasts. New York: Pantheon, 1985.
Wilson, C. A. Food and Drink in Britain from the Stone Age to Recent Times. London: Constable, 1973.
Wilson, F. M., ed. Strange Island: Britain Through Foreign Eyes 1395–1940. London: Longmans, 1955.
Witteveen, J. “The Great Birds,” Petits Propos Culinaires, 24, 25, 26, 32, 36 (1986–90).
Worde, Wynkyn de. The Boke of Kervynge (1508), in F.J. Furnivall, ed., Early English Meals and Manners.
Wouters, C. “Informalisation and the Civilising Process,” in P. R. Gleichman, et al., eds., Human Figurations: Essays for Norbert Elias. Amsterdam: Sociologisch Tijdschrift, 1977.
Wright, L. Clean and Decent. London: Routledge and Kegan Paul, 1960.
Wright, T. A History of Domestic Manners and Sentiments in England During the Middle Ages. London: Chapman and Hall, 1862.
Xenophon (4th century B.C.). Symposium. Trans. by E. C. Marchant, Loeb Classical Library, Xenophon, Vol. 4. Cambridge, Mass.: Harvard University Press, 1968.
Yalman, N. “On the Meaning of Food Offerings in Ceylon,” in R. F. Spencer, ed., Forms of Symbolic Action. Proceedings of the American Ethnological Society Meeting. Seattle: University of Washington Press, 1969, pp. 81–96.
Yanagida, K. Japanese Manners and Customs in the Meiji Era. Tokyo: Toyo Bunko, 1969.
Ying-Shih Yü. “Han,” in K. C. Chang, ed., Food in Chinese Culture.
Young, J. “Chanoyu for the West,” Chanoyu Quarterly, 1 (1970), 28–38.
Young, M. W. Fighting with Food. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 1971.
Yudkin, J. and J. C. McKenzie. Changing Food Habits. London: MacGibbon and Kee, 1964.
Zumwalt, R. L. “The Return of the Whale,” in A. Falassi, ed., Time Out of Time: Essays on the Festival. Albuquerque, N.M.: University of New Mexico Press, 1987.
Index
A
Abbasids, 160, 189, 192, 248, 354
Aborigines, Australian, 258
Abraham, 106
Accidents at meals, 252–53
Adler, Elizabeth, 196–97
Africans, 56, 58–59, 61, 92, 93–94, 159, 170, 196, 201, 271, 295, 309–10, 324, 373, See also individual countries, tribes
“Agogos,” 85
Ainus, 161, 327
Airline dinners, 185, 230–33
A la française, dinners, 222–26, 228, 229, 230, 231, 250, 301
A l’allemande, dinners, 227
A la russe, dinners, 227–29, 232, 269, 283, 301, 313, 387
Alcohol, 55, 135, 272–73, 275, 278, 281, 283, 295, 311, 318, 323, 382
Ale. See Beer
Alexander the Great, King, 112, 286
Alone, eating, 21, 55, 92, 98, 150, 310
Ambigu, 228
Americans, Latin, 148, 329, 368
Americans, North, 2–3, 23–24, 38–39, 52, 55, 59, 61–62, 85–90, 100, 127, 130, 136, 139, 144, 148, 151, 160, 165, 179, 180, 189, 194, 207, 211, 215–18, 219, 222, 228, 241, 252, 270, 276, 292, 296, 314, 317, 320, 322, 325, 341, 346, 350, 357, 361–62
Amphitryon, 108, 110, 268. See also Hosts and guests
Anderson, E.N. Jr. and M.L., 206
Andréani, Ghislaine, 220
Animals, 25, 27, 28, 106; bad-mannered people compared to, 73, 76, 85, 106, 194–95, 283, 353, 364, 365, 366. See also individual animals
Anise, 225, 362
Anorexia, 247
Apéritif, 135–36
Aphrodisiac, 135
Apollinaire, Guillaume, 289
Apologizing, 135, 243, 247, 372
Appadurai, Arjun, 55, 143
Appreciation, showing, 2, 244–45, 247, 248, 252, 253, 373. See also Praising; Belching; Slurping; Smacking lips
Apricots, 194
Arabs, 100, 127–29, 142, 150, 160, 189, 190, 1
91–93, 194, 197, 201, 219, 244, 248, 252, 328, 329, 373. See also Abbasids; United Arab Emirates; Egyptians; Rwala Bedouin
Arawaks, 9–10
Archaism, and manners, 38–39, 200, 240
Areca nut, 324
Arens, W., 11
Aristotle, 72, 279
Aron, Jean-Paul, 223
Artichokes, 26, 213
Artus, Thomas, 213
Asking for food, drink, 55, 63, 227, 248, 311, 368
Asparagus, 194, 213, 342
Assamese, 93, 312, 322
Assiette, 199, 214
Assyrians, 172
Athenaeus, 112, 120, 173, 187, 252, 294, 332, 368, 374
Attention, paying, 142, 146, 163, 225, 248, 274–75, 280, 281, 368, 390; drawing to oneself, 341–42, 349, 355, 358, 367, 371. See also Tapping a glass; Inattention
Audience, watching feasts, 113, 147, 301, 312, 319–20
Austen, Jane, 179
Austrians, 211–12
Aztecs, 11–14, 16–17, 18, 20, 23
B
The Babees’ Book, 72
Baldrige, Letitia, 290
Bananas, 16, 54, 342
Banquets, 166–67, 170, 225; Chinese, 243; banqueting house, 113, 165–66. See also Feasts
Barbecue, 257
Barley, 42
Barthes, Roland, 202, 203, 204, 205, 350
Beans, 99, 213
Beef, 112, 267, 268, 312, 337; “Beef lesson,” 271
Beer, 37, 127, 136, 271, 278, 282–83, 286, 294, 310
Beeton, Isabella, 266, 269, 363
Belching, 60, 68, 76, 246, 342, 372
Belgians, 320
Bell, 126, 156–57
Belt, 282, 371
Bemba, 37
Bench, 40, 166, 371
Benedict, St., 206
Berndt, Ronald, 22
de Berry, Duc, 187
Betel nuts, 322
Best pieces, taking the, 138, 150, 203, 211, 365
Birds, great, 262
Birthdays, 25
Biting, 196
Bitten food, 196, 204, 348. See also Breaking food
Blancmange, 346
Blood, 15, 18, 43, 106
Blowing, 358. See also Breath, breathing
Bogart, Humphrey, 291–92
Boke of Curtasye, 324, 371
Bones, 12, 15–16, 17, 22, 85, 190, 254–55, 260, 349, 353, 361, 362
Bonnet, Jean-Claude, 176
Bottles, 279, 281
Bourdieu, Pierre, 349
Bowing, 126, 127, 128, 189, 280, 281, 285, 292, 311, 313, 317
Bowls, 214, 218, 219, 234, 322. See also Plates
Brains, eating, 255, 267, 346
Branchereau, Louis, 73, 142, 188, 200, 217, 247, 250, 320, 359, 362
Brandt, Sebastian, 75
Bread, 7–8, 42, 43, 77, 119–20, 126, 160, 162, 169, 186–87, 192, 196, 200, 208, 209, 210, 213, 233, 234–35, 240, 241, 246, 253, 263, 272, 279, 321, 341, 348, 351; bread basket, 208–9
Breakfast, 25, 52, 65, 160–61, 168, 171–72, 179, 230, 232, 279–80
Breaking food, 77, 196, 197, 200, 208, 340, 349
Breast, eating, 263, 264, 270
Breast-feeding. See Nursing
Breath, breathing, 312, 345, 360, 362, 373. See also Blowing, Anise
Brillat-Savarin, Jean Anthelme, 184
British, 38–39, 57, 72, 86, 122–23, 126–128, 139, 142, 147, 157, 161–62, 166–67, 168, 178, 179, 185, 195, 199, 208, 211, 212, 213, 217, 219, 223, 224, 230, 240–41, 251–52, 266–68, 269, 270, 283, 284, 286, 287, 288, 289, 290–92, 296, 313, 314–17, 320, 321, 328, 346–47, 350, 357, 361–62, 363–65, 368–69, 373–75
Buddhists, 204
Buffet dinners, 168, 228, 338; shelves, 168, 244
Bulgarians, 126–27, 250
Bull, Roger, 76
Bumpers, 289
Buñuel, Luis, 342
Burgess, Anthony, 220
Burgundians, 29, 224, 239, 262
Burkert, Walter, 260
Butler, 141, 152, 157, 263, 315, 386
Butter, 200, 209, 225, 234, 240, 337, 354; butter knife, 354
Byron, George Gordon, Lord, 270
C
Cafés, 140,
Cake, 38, 166, 211–12; cake fork, 212. See also Wedding cake
Caliban, 10
Cambacérès, Archchancellor, 252
Camel, 258
Canadians, 248
Candies, 225
Candles, 44, 178, 180–81, 182, 183, 222, 225, 235
Cannibalism, 9–23, 26, 41, 44, 48
Canopy, 149, 172
Carême, Antonin, 226
Caribs, 9–10
Carving, 39–43, 72, 150, 213, 226, 227, 248, 252, 254–71, 313, 387; Carving master, 268
Caste, 66 See also Pollution; ritual
Castiglione, Baldassare, 80–81, 84
Cats, 187, 341–42
Ceausescu, Nicolae, 160
Celery, 200
Celts, 112, 196
Cervio, Vincenzo, 264–66
Cha no yu, 130, 228, 242–43
Chaga, 57, 62
Chairs, 3, 59, 61, 111–112, 147, 149–50, 151, 170, 188, 231, 233, 301, 367, 383, 386; empty, 94, 126, 247
Chamber–pots. See Urinating
Champagne, 135
Chancellor, Richard, 162
Chao, B.Y., 85, 143, 162, 203
Charles the Bold, King, 29, 224
Charles, N., and Kerr, M., 56, 57–58, 65
Charlie, Bonnie Prince, 292
Chaucer, Geoffrey, 199
Cheese, 85, 210–11, 279, 312, 320, 321; cheese knife, 85, 210
Cherries, 342–43
Chesterfield, Philip Dormer Stanhope, Fourth Earl of, 90, 268, 301
Chewing, 9 106, 179, 195–96, 200, 347, 350, 352–53, 361–62, 394
Chewing gum, 361–62
Chicken, 194, 312
Children, 48–49, 60, 150, 274–75, 311, 332, 347; at dinner, 126, 143, 149, 160, 190, 197, 247, 248, 254, 270, 300, 308–310, 340; training, 23–24, 47–66, 69, 71, 93–94, 171–72, 190, 192, 194, 202, 203–4, 211, 218, 330–32, 343, 368, 384; use of children’s innocence, 115, 259
Chimpanzees, 6
Chin, keeping a clean, 195, 198, 333
Chinese, 39–40, 78, 100, 118–19, 130–31, 133, 135–36, 143, 162, 163, 176 185–86, 192, 201–6, 221, 233–34, 235, 236, 243–44, 245–47, 248, 249, 250, 280, 281, 282, 283, 284, 295, 308–9, 319, 322, 324–25, 357, 358, 358, 360, 372–73. See also Li Chi
Chips. See French fries
Chocolate, chocolates, 38, 126–28, 134
Chopsticks, 85, 162, 201–6, 233, 241, 295, 312, 319, 322, 361
Christians, 43, 70–71, 73, 107, 129, 142, 156–57, 160, 186, 287–88. See also Eucharist; Christmas; Last Supper; Jesus Christ
Christmas, 36, 38, 120, 180, 218, 384
Claudius, Emperor, 43
Cleanliness, 1, 23, 127, 129, 184–85, 187–88, 189, 201, 341, 383, 387–88, 394–96. See also Pollution
Clearing the eating place, 227–28, 273, 319, 322, 324, 340, 348–49, 377, 386
Clinking. See Tapping
Clothing, 113, 122, 129–33, 140, 141, 172, 195, 243, 263, 325, 328–29, 338, 381, 383, 385
Cocktail party, 166–67, 381–82, 394
Cod, 268
Coffee, 38, 54, 129, 134–35, 190, 214, 219, 244, 303, 313, 314, 315, 316, 322, 323, 325
Cola nut, 133–34, 158–60
Colefax, Lady Sybil, 122
Collation, 296
Columbus, Christopher, 9–11
Companionship, 8, 131, 133–34, 137–38, 232, 233, 272–78, 281
Competence, 23–26, 84–85, 90, 172, 205–6, 228, 273, 274–75, 280–81, 332–33, 367, 381, 390, 394–96
Condiments, 182, 231, 350. See Salt
Consideration. See Attention
Conventions, 3, 25, 26, 27, 119, 121–22, 385
Conversation. See Talking
Cookies, 196
Cooking, cooks, 7, 20–22, 23, 89–92
, 93, 94, 113, 114, 126, 133, 143, 150, 160, 165, 180, 190, 205–6, 221, 230, 247, 257, 258, 259, 260, 270, 303–11, 312, 318, 337, 339–40, 350, 386, 391–92
Cooperation, 194, 203–4, 281, 290. See Sharing
Corn (maize), 13–15, 16, 194–95
Coryat, Thomas, 213
Cosmos, meal symbolizes, 156, 220
Couches, 156–57, 173. See also Lying down
Coughing, 369, 372, 373
Courses, 169, 177, 222–28, 231, 232–33, 241, 248
The Court of civill Courtesie, 144, 248, 290, 347–48, 373
Courtesans, 129, 277, 306
Courtesy, 68, 69–70
de Courtin, Antoine, 70–71, 213
Coverings, 158, 231, 234, 395
Covers. See Coverings; Place settings
Crab, 266–67
Cramming the mouth, 195, 203–4, 215, 350–53, 371
Crater, 273, 280
Crayfish, 183–84, 200
Credenza, 157, 266, 268–69, 301
Criticizing, 246–47
Cruet stands, 183
Cup–bearer, 263, 283, 286
Cups, 43–44, 169, 190, 192, 198–99, 204–5, 218–20, 243, 273, 280, 281, 286, 338. See also Loving cup
Curry, 85
Curses, 261–63
Cushions, 107, 176
Cutlery, 58, 190, 194–95, 198–99, 202–6, 213, 218, 231, 233, 240, 241, 243, 276, 286, 395. See also Knife, Fork, Spoon
Cutting, 195–96, 198–99, 205–6. See also Carving
Czechoslovakia, 320
D
Damian, St. Peter, 213
Dancing, 136, 274–75
Danes, 250, 303, 320
Death to the diner, 5, 109–10, 137, 180, 185, 204–5, 210, 261, 319; reminders of, 126–28, 156. See also Violence
Decorations, 130, 131, 132, 151, 178, 181–84, 222, 224–25, 240, 301
Dedekind, Friederich, 75
Deetz, James, 217
Deference, 86, 126–28, 129, 142–43, 151, 152, 271. See also Honour, Bowing
Delicacies, given as honour, 120, 242, 253, 329
Della Casa, Giovanni. See Galateo
Dessert, 88, 165–67, 177, 214, 223, 225, 228, 230, 232, 304, 319, 320–21; dessert setting, 320–22
Díaz del Castillo, Bernal, 15
Dickens, Charles, 35, 178, 217, 289–90, 314, 332
Dieting, 53, 100, 364
Difficulty of table manners, 83–86, 190, 204, 211, 217–18, 274–75
Digestif, 135–36
Dining room, 93–94, 156, 164–65, 172–73, 306. See also Triclinium
Dinner, 135–36, 179, 232
Dionysus, 280, 310–11
Dioscorides, 279
Dipping, 197–99, 200, 235, 248