The Rituals of Dinner
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Direction faced, 137, 338
Disgust, 5, 60, 69–72, 201, 331–33, 341–42, 348, 354, 357, 362–63, 366
Distance, from food, 68, 271, 272; of diners from each other, 68, 109, 149, 174, 225, 228, 231–32, 306, 354
Distinction, 66, 80–90, 144, 193, 274–75; between food and drink, 271, 273, 281–82; between children and adults, 54–57; between formality and informality, 136–139, 160–62, 382. See also Hierarchy
Diversification. See Specialization
Dogs, eating, 14, 342; at table, 187–88, 235, 254–55
Douglas, Mary, 378
Dressers, 94, 168. See also Buffet shelves
Drinking, 162, 271–92; limiting, 282–83
“Drinks,” 100, 134, 135–37, 381. See also Cocktail party
Drunkenness, 132, 278, 280–81, 283, 285, 291–92, 315–16
Dryden, John, 82
Ducks, 266, 269, 270
Dumplings, 209
Dutch, 346, 355
Dyson-Hudson, R, and Van Dusen, R, 62–63
E
Ears, eating, 268
Ease, 81–85, 342–44, 361. See also Je ne sais quoi
Eating everything, 246, 248, 318–19, 322. See also Leaving, Leftovers
Ecclesiasticus, 368, 374
Egalitarianism, 86, 114, 135, 136, 147, 150, 233–34, 258, 259, 261, 356, 380
Eggs, 196, 274, 346, 350, 351; drinking, 272, 350; egg cups, 350. See also Omelette
Egyptians, ancient, 72, 122, 156–57
Egyptians, modern, 26, 189, 324
Elbows, 172, 173, 175, 233, 258, 259
Elias, Norbert, 68–72, 75, 77, 209, 354–55
Embarrassment, 68, 142, 160, 291, 301, 332–33, 356, 366, 373
Ending the meal, 134, 135
Enemy feast, 136, 248
Entertainment at a feast, 136, 224, 263–66, 296, 321. See also Music.
Entrées, 88, 222
Entremets, 222, 223, 224–25, 232
Epergnes, 183
Eranos, 169
Erasmus, Desiderius, 68, 76–81, 106, 184, 200, 209–10, 283, 290–91, 344–45, 349, 350, 355–56, 361–62, 364–74
Eskimo. See Inuit
Etruscans, 172–73
Eucharist, 43–44, 228, 276, 280
Euphemisms, 193, 306, 309
Europe, 2, 55, 56, 61–62, 91, 113, 127, 128, 134, 140, 160, 164, 178, 207, 219, 222, 252, 292, 312, 322–23. See also individual countries
Evelyn, John, 113
Excreta, 68, 193–94, 345, 348, 355, 374. See also Saliva
Eyes, eating, 26, 266, 268, 346
Eyes, manners involving, 285, 288, 292, 365. See also Staring
F
Face-veils, masks, 132
Facial expressions, 300, 332, 363–66, 371
Family meals, 42–66, 71, 92–95, 111–12, 130, 179, 189–90, 199, 250, 269, 270, 295, 297, 301, 308–10, 312, 384
Fans, 131
Farrar, Eliza Ware, 216
Farting, 68, 77, 120, 373–74
Fast food, 44, 52, 59, 383–85, 395–95
Fasting, 2, 17–18, 25, 52–53, 92, 101, 247, 251
Fat, 23, 122, 127, 185, 213, 260, 266–68, 270. See also Grease
Fate, 126, 132, 145–46, 238, 260, 261–62
Father, 66, 94 150, 269, 270, 313, 353
Feasts, festivals, 2, 25, 29–44, 97–98, 106, 130, 132–33, 151, 220–30, 259, 270, 327, 329–30, 382, 384
Feet, manners concerning, 126–27, 129, 355, 371–72
Fennel, 225
Fidgeting, 77, 369–70
Fielding, Henry, 154, 251
Fighting, 76, 110–13, 144–46
Fijians, ancient, 17
Finger bowls, 185, 288, 320–21, 362
Fingers, 131, 132, 198, 201, 210, 212, 213, 217, 233, 272, 321, 361, 362, 364, 365, 371–72; restrictions on, 190–92, 272, 368; fingernails, 72. See also Hands
Fire, fireplace, 91–92, 165–67, 180, 257, 309. See also Candles
First–fruits, 42
First mouthful, 116, 134–35, 156–64, 189
Firth, Raymond, 8
Fish, 184, 202, 207, 268; fish bones, 349; fish knives, forks, 207
Flathead Indians, 185
Flatware. See Cutlery; Knife; Fork, Spoon
Floor, 57, 128, 169–70, 186–87, 273, 279, 349, 355
Flowers, 126–28, 131, 132, 156–57, 178, 182–84, 225, 228, 230, 231, 243
Fontbrégoua, 12
Footmen, 164, 228, 386
Forks, 18, 20–26, 67–68, 88, 89, 112, 185, 188, 200, 207, 208, 210–18, 219, 241, 318–320, 331, 349, 350; carving fork, 262–66
Formality, 4, 65, 115, 132, 137, 146, 219, 228, 233, 234, 240, 250, 377–80, 381, 383–85, 386, 392, 393. See also Informality
Fortune cookie, 319
François I, King, 214
Franks, III
Fredegonda, III
French, 30, 46, 50, 53–54, 68–71, 80–83, 94, 99, 105, 108, 112, 128, 132, 134–36, 141, 147, 148–50, 157, 159, 169, 176–78, 179, 183, 185–86, 199, 207–10, 213–17, 219, 221–23, 226–30, 240–41, 244, 245–47, 250, 262, 267–70, 277–79, 283, 296–300, 308–11, 320–22, 327, 343–45, 349–50, 362
French fries, 80, 383, 384
Freud, Sigmund, 10–11, 211, 218
Frogs, 346
Fruit, 178, 182, 183, 193, 212, 221, 395; fruit knives, 208
Fufuu, Nigerian coco-yam porridge, 92–94, 160, 234
Funerals, 16, 25, 26
G
Gabba, 120
Galateo, 80–82, 356, 358, 361, 362, 369, 370
Games during meals, 250, 284. See also Kottabos
Gargling, 362
Gate–crashers, 96, 121–22
Geertz, Clifford, 115
Generosity, of hosts, 30–33, 108, 153, 257–58, 289, 382; of guests, 126–29
Germans, 50, 73–75, 101–2, 126–28, 161–62, 182–83, 184–85, 209–10, 226–27, 282, 287, 292, 320, 326–27 343–45, 346–48
Gesticulation, 342, 366, 369–71, 381
Ghosts at dinner, 107, 121, 125–28, 372
Gifts, 224, 286; from guests, 126–28; to the poor, 235, 328; food to take home, or for the road, 184, 253, 324, 328. See also Delicacies; Generosity
Gilbert, W.S., 292
Gille, Bernard, 240, 251
Gin, 135
Ginger, 213
Giovanni, Don, 126
Glasses, 108, 190, 234, 240, 271–72, 282, 283, 338, 350, 364, 381, 395; footless, 284, 287–89; turning glass upside down, 126, 281. See also Bumper; Tumbler; Toasting
Gloves, 127, 131–33, 282, 385
Gods, present at meals, 41–44, 106–108, 273, 285
Goffman, Erving, 86, 277, 297, 369–70
Gogo, 99–100
Gong, 157, 243, 329
Gonja, 305
Goudeau, Emile, 221
Grabbing, 75, 76, 190, 332, 393
Grace, 114, 160–61, 273, 321, 324
Gravy, 198–99, 270, 271
Grease, 190–92, 195, 199, 202, 353. See also Fat
Greed, 2, 75, 76, 128, 133, 195, 202, 204, 205, 318–19, 368, 371, 374, 382
Greeks, ancient, 40, 42, 72, 97, 100, 102, 106, 110–113, 120–21, 122–23, 132–33, 156–57, 160–61, 164, 168–176, 187, 192, 197, 207, 221, 253, 260–62, 272–73, 276–81, 284–86, 292–94, 305–6, 348, 356, 371, 374
Greeks, modern, 133–34, 319–20
Greene, Graham, 184–85
Greetings, 125–28
Grimod de la Reyniére, A.B.L., 181–82, 264, 268–69
Grobianus, 75–76, 378
Guazzo, Stefano, 80
Guests, number of, 121–22; guests of honour, 42, 106, 119, 121, 137, 144, 147–50, 163, 185–86, 188–89, 242, 250, 266–68, 273, 288, 313, 319, 322; guest-friendship, 100; supernatural, 42. See also Hosts
H
Hair, 185, 189, 248, 369–70
Halloween, 107–110
Hamburgers, 233–34, 259, 383–86
Handkerchiefs, 356–60, 371
Handy, W.M., 367
Hardy, Thomas, 276
Hare, 268–69
Hats, 126–28, 160–61, 263, 285, 291–92, 317, 372, 385. See also Wreaths
Head, demeanour of the, 126–28, 133, 285, 369–71
Heads, eating, 54, 266–68, 271; human, brought to the table during dinner, 112
Health, 52–55, 57, 110, 134–36, 231, 246, 251, 278, 286
Heliogabalus, Emperor, 121
Henri III, King, 212–14
Herodotus, 356
Hesiod, 72, 320
Hesitating, 203, 246, 377
Hiccuping, 372–73
Hierarchy, 117–19, 138–54, 168, 222, 228, 232, 233, 248, 253, 259–61, 271, 290, 336–340, 379
High table, 139, 147, 164, 178, 301
Hirohito, Emperor of Japan, 160
Hitchcock, Alfred, 106, 340–41
Hobnobbing, 289
Hoffmann, H. See Strüwwelpeter
Homer, 11, 42–43, 100, 106, 156–57, 253, 285, 333, 382
Hong Kong, 39–40
Honour, 70–71, 98, 110, 111, 119, 129, 135, 142, 144–45, 147, 151, 153, 176, 225, 233, 252–53, 261–68, 271, 285–93, 308–9; honnêteté, 70–71, 239; doing the honours, 162, 263, 268. See also Carving
Horace, 76
Horn, drinking, 284
Hors d’oeuvres, 223–24, 227, 230, 241
Hospitality, 61, 95, 105, 106–107, 111, 119
Hosts and guests, 94–145, 147, 151–52, 159–60, 162, 202, 222–23, 242–43, 247–48, 250–52, 268–69, 274–75, 281, 290, 296, 301, 309–11, 318–20, 322, 329, 383, 386
Hot food, hot drinks, 30, 84, 163, 190, 200–2, 219–20, 228–32, 270, 349, 358. See also Blowing
Hu Yaobang, 203
Hugh of St. Victor, 73
Humphry, Mrs., 354
Hungarians, 199, 247
Hunger, 12, 25, 48, 62, 163, 210, 234, 246–48, 294; not showing, 133, 151, 152, 248
Hunters, hunting, 25, 254–59
Hybris, 133, 280
I
Ice, snow, 273
Ice cream, 196, 219
Igbo, 93–96, 135, 160–61, 234, 277
Illyrians, 282
Inattention, ritual, 277, 342
Incense, 44, 115, 129, 243, 273, 325
India, inhabitants of, 54, 58, 143, 189, 201, 225, 254, 334–39, 348, 350
Indians, North American, 160, 219, 253–55, 276, 331. See also individual tribes
Indians, South American, 196, 310–11, 331. See also Aztec
Indus Valley Civilization, 340
Informality, 4, 25, 96, 132, 140, 148, 169–70, 195, 198, 226, 233, 241, 250, 314–16, 376–82, 385, 393
Initiation, 40–42, 54, 56, 160, 173, 233, 309–10; coffee as, 323; “Drinks” as, 134–36; washing as, 157
Insects, caterpillars found in food, 247, 341–42
Inuit, 51, 196, 257–58
Invitations, 84, 96, 101, 105, 113–28, 136–38, 308, 386
Iranians, 151, 156–57, 219, 244, 295, 308, 324, 356
Irish, 288–90
Italians, 23–25, 36, 80–82, 128, 134, 144–45, 182–85, 209–14, 220, 224–25, 239, 250, 263–67, 284, 288–89, 320, 343–45, 350–52, 356, 373
Iteso, 274–75
Ivan the Terrible, Emperor of Russia, 162
J
Jains, 338
James, Henry, 151
Japanese, 127, 130, 134, 143, 144, 160, 163, 168, 189, 201–6, 230, 242, 250, 280–81, 295, 309, 312, 329, 350, 361, 373. See also Ainus
Javanese, 115, 307, 324
Jefferson, Thomas, 139
Jelly, 346
Je ne sais quoi, 81–83, 301, 396
Jesters, 120–21
Jesus Christ, 27, 43, 107, 121, 126, 129, 174, 253, 328
Jews, ancient, 41, 106, 129, 172–74, 252–53, 260, 326–27
Jews, modern, 42–43, 126, 160
Jívaro, 37
John, St., Apostle, 175
Johnson, Samuel, 179
Jonson, Ben, 185, 292
Joyce, James, 27
Jûgaya, 242
Jukun, 309
Juvenal, 378
K
Kagoro, 312
Kaluli, 56
Kanafani, Aida, 197, 325–26
Kangaroo, 258
Kasson, John, 87
Kitchen, eating in the, 93–94, 166–67, 248
Kneeling, 58, 150, 189
Knives, 14, 77, 106, 112, 188, 194, 196, 200, 205–13, 215, 219, 231–35, 242, 256–71, 310–11, 319–20, 349, 350, 361–62, 367–70; butter knife, 354
Kofyar, 37
Koreans, 149, 201–6
Kottabos, 112–113, 279
Kwakiutl, 361
L
La Bruyère, 198
Ladle, 156, 219, 273, 286, 320
de La Marche, Olivier, 34, 224
Lamb, 42, 269
Lap, 184, 201
Last Supper, 121, 175
Lattimore, Owen, 196
Laughing, 76, 89, 106, 120, 300–1, 365–66
Laying the table, 106, 130, 176, 222, 240, 241, 386
Lear, Edward, 5
Leaving, the table or the room, 58, 137, 147, 188, 189, 274–75, 319–20, 322–25, 357, 374; the house at the end of the visit, 131, 325–30
Leaving food uneaten, 217, 246, 317–19. See also Eating everything; Leftovers
Lectisternium, 107
Leftovers, 55, 151, 198, 235, 312, 322, 328, 329, 340. See also Pollution; Leaving food uneaten; Eating everything
LeGrand d’Aussy, 211, 321–22
Legs, demeanour of, 128, 371
Legs, eating, 269–70
Lettuce, 208–9, 232
Lévi-Strauss, Claude, 22, 277–78, 331–32
Libations, 42, 160, 273, 279, 283, 285–86
Li Chi, 26, 79–80, 162, 192, 201, 247, 253, 280, 320, 322, 353
Lichtenstein, H., 324
Licking, 76, 131, 184, 196, 198, 203–4, 340, 353
Lifting plates to eat, 204, 239 282
Lips, 76, 364–65, 371. See also Mouth
Liselotte, 131
Lobsters, 185, 200
LoDagaa, 306, 310–11
Louis XIV, King, 69–71, 82, 112, 116, 145, 149–50, 159, 312–13, 350
Loving cup, 276, 286, 291–92
Ludwig, Carl, 374
Lunch, Luncheon, 25, 132, 135–36, 177, 179–80, 227–28, 232, 240, 320; fork luncheon, 179; business lunch, 179, 281
Lungs, eating, 346
Lydgate, John, 266
Lying down, 107, 120, 172. See also Couches
M
Mackenzie, Osgood, 65
Macrobius, 294
Malawians, 58–60
Malays, 61
Manet, Edouard, 170
Manners, Miss (Judith Martin), 89, 218, 311
Manners books, 68, 72–73, 76–84, 86–90, 104, 134, 302–3, 311, 315–19, 364–65, 378
Maoris, ancient, 20–22
Marriage, 92, 100, 115, 307, 336. See also Weddings
Martial, 131
Mashing, 200, 350–51
Mass. See Eucharist
Masters, Brian, 121
Matisse, Henri, 309
Meakin, B., 198
Meat, 6, 30, 37–42, 98, 169, 194, 196, 202, 205–7, 210, 215, 232, 239, 254–71, 337
de Médicis, Catherine, 36
Men, 256–59, 269, 286–92, 303–18, 375. See also Women
Menedemus, 292–94
Menu, 222, 225–28, 383, 386
Microwave, 53–55, 393
Milk, 54, 85, 214
Millet, 201
Min Chia, 118
Mohammad, 219
Molière, 108–9
Monasterie
s, 72–73, 156–57, 172–73, 205–7, 248, 296
Mongols, 283–84
Monkeys, 25
Montaigne, Michel de, 10–11, 185, 195, 300
Moroccans, 198
Mother, 66, 93, 309–10
Moungetade, 99, 120–21, 169
Mouth, 92, 185, 193, 217, 219, 292, 322, 343–65
Moving, to another place during the meal, 146, 165–67, 314, 324–25
Mowat, Farley, 196
Muchembled, Robert, 199
Mugs, 271–72, 282
Mulberries, 212
Music, 162, 181–82, 252, 274–75, 284, 296, 309
Mussels, 185
N
Names, remembering, 289, 301–2
Napkins, 44, 106, 131, 157, 159, 161, 184–88, 195, 200–201, 225, 231, 234, 243, 269, 283, 286, 319–22, 349, 353, 361–63, 366, 368; napkin rings, 300
Nef, 178
Neophilia, Neophobia, 51–53
Nenci, G., 197
Nero, Emperor, 131, 156
Netting, R., 36
New Ireland, 29, 162
Newars, 282–83, 295, 310–11, 324
Newnham-Davis, N., 220, 350
Nigeria, 134–35, 248, 309–10. See also individual tribes
Noise while eating, 23, 204–5, 333, 361, 371–72
Norwegians, 127
Nose, manners concerning the, 76, 371
Nouvelle cuisine, 228–30, 350
Novalis, 220
Number of diners, 121, 173
Nursing babies, 47, 306–7
Nzekwu, O., 134
O
Oaths, 261–62, 289
Offal, 99–100, 256–57, 260–61 268
Okere, L.C., 93
Okra, 346
Olives, 85, 342–43
Omelette, 207, 309–10
Ornaments. See Decorations
O’Rourke, P.J., 378
Ortner, Sherry, 101 102, 251
Ovid, 106–7
Oysters, 346
P
Palate, eating, 266–68
Pancakes, 209
Palmer, Arnold, 157, 179–80
Panter, 263
Paprika, 247
Papua New Guinea, 92–93, 158–59. See also individual tribes
Paradise, meal symbolizes, 156–57, 220
Parasites, 119–21, 328
Passing (of food, drink, condiments), 210, 225, 228, 248, 368. See also Sharing
Passover, 42–43
Peacock, 362–63
Peacock, Thomas Love, 315
Peanut butter, 54
Peas, 211, 213
Pedi, 248, 312, 327, 362
Pepys, Samuel, 186, 292
Perfume, 129, 132–33, 156, 273, 325
Petronius, 72, 76
Pheasant, 262–63
Philip of Macedon, King, 284
Phoenicians, 172
Picnics, 169–70, 235, 324
Pièce de résistance, 223
Pièce montée, 113, 151
Pies, 113, 257, 259, 261
Pips, Stones, 342–43, 349