Chop Suey : A Cultural History of Chinese Food in the United States
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INDEX
Adams, John Quincy, 40
Africa, 3, 19, 20
African Americans, 114, 169, 173, 176, 189, 196
agriculture:
Chinese American, 121–22, 121–23, 135, 137, 138, 151, 170, 171, 207
Chinese history of, 67–73, 78–79, 100–102
Ah Ling, 151
Ah Wah, 151
alcohol:
in American Chinese restaurants, 189, 191, 215, 216
in Chinese culinary tradition, 75, 76, 91, 94
and Prohibition, 189
in western culinary tradition, 2, 5, 12, 14, 26, 45–46
See also liquors; rice wine; wines
Allium genus, 79–80
Altar of Heaven, 77
Alton (IL) Evening Telegraph, 194, 195
American history. See United States history
American Mutoscope and Biograph Company, 195
American Revolution, 4, 10–11, 22, 24
Americans in China:
early diplomats, 38–52
missionaries, 31–35, 53, 55, 59–63, 116, 117
Nixon and Kissinger, 224–39
tourists attending Olympics, 248–50
writings by, 33–35, 56–59, 62–63
See also American traders in China
American tastes:
Chinese opinion of, 153–54
lack of adventurousness in, 14, 118, 137, 139, 249–50, 251
prejudice as influence on, 35, 52, 55, 114–15, 126–27, 133, 134, 148, 156
See also Chinese food in America; chop suey
American traders in China:
first visits, 1–16, 25–31, 36, 250
friendships with Europeans, 4, 9, 10–13, 11, 53
isolation of, 7–8, 13, 26, 28–29, 34, 35, 53–55
languages used by, 9–10, 29
trade goods, 1–2, 15, 25–28, 36
See also British traders; Chinese trade
American West:
Chinese settlement of, 134–40
frontier diet in, 118, 137, 138, 139
gold rush, 102, 107–10, 112
–14, 115, 134
Mark Twain’s visit, 136
racism in, 113–17, 126, 127, 139–43, 174–75
See also San Francisco
Amoy, 53
Annals of San Francisco, 114
apricots, 82
aquaculture. See fishing
Aramark, 250
archaeological sites:
ancient Chinese, 71, 72, 76, 81, 84, 86, 88, 89
nineteenth century mining camp, 136–37
Armstrong, Louis, 196
Arthur, Chester A., 142
arts and entertainment:
Chinese culture in, 168, 187–88, 191, 195–98, 200–204, 214
racism in, 139–40, 196–97
Atlanta, Ga., 189
Ayres, Lew, 195, 196
AZ (restaurant), 248
azuki beans, 80
bamboo shoots, 63, 67, 80, 99, 160, 192, 239
bamboo steamers, 84
bananas, 6, 101
banquet fare:
Cantonese, 209–10
gradations in, 93
banquets:
in Chinese American restaurants, 104–7, 124–26, 129–31, 206, 209–10, 220, 240–41
in Chinese culinary tradition, 81–82, 92–94, 218
etiquette of, 46, 47–48, 92–93, 235, 238
in western culinary tradition, 44–46, 54
for western visitors to China, 13–14, 29–31, 33–34, 47–49, 224–25, 237–39
baozi (stuffed bread), 89
Beach, Donn, 215
bean curd (tofu), 67, 80, 210
bean paste, 86
beans:
azuki (red), 80
black, 100
cultivation of, 101
fermentation of, 86, 100
mung, 91
bean sprouts, 160, 192
bear’s paws, 93
bêche-de-mer,, 27
See also sea cucumbers
Bechet, Sidney, 196
beef:
in Chinese cuisine, 80, 251
in western shipboard diet, 2, 3
beer, 45–46
Beijing (Peking):
Boxer Rebellion, 165–66
cuisine of, 79, 99, 221
imperial government in, 17, 18, 47, 166
Opium War, 36
Summer Olympics (2008), 248–49
Bergeron, Victor, 216
beverages, in Chinese cuisine, 91
See also rice wine; tea
Biglar, John, 114–15
bing (kneaded flour foods), 88–91
See also breads; dumplings; noodles
birds’ nests:
as Chinese delicacy, 23, 28, 48, 50–51, 58, 61, 98
diners’ anecdotes, 33, 48, 105, 136
flavor of, 28
as trade good, 28, 93–94
bird’s nest soup, 30, 48, 220
Bits of Old China (Hunter), 44–46
black beans, 100
Black Hills Gold Rush, 139
Blue Ginger, 248
Bohemians, 156–59, 160, 169, 170, 186
The Book of Rites (Confucius), 73
Bossé, Sara Eaton, 186
Boston, 3, 22, 50, 169–70, 248
Boston Daily Globe, 169–70, 177
Boston tea party, 22
Bowles, Samuel, 103, 104, 105, 106–7
“A Bowl of Chop Suey and You-ey,” 196–97
Boxer Rebellion, 165–66
Brassica genus, 79, 80
breads:
flatbread, 221
steamed, 88, 89, 95, 99, 130
in western shipboard diet, 2
Bridgman, Elijah Coleman:
as missionary to China, 31–32, 60
writings about China, 33, 34–35, 41, 43, 47
Britain:
Opium War, 36–37, 39, 40, 53
Treaty of Nanking, 37, 39
See also Western culinary traditions
British East India Company, 8–9, 12–13, 22
British traders:
commercial dominance of, 8–9, 12, 22, 24–25, 36, 41, 53
Guangzhou factory of, 9, 12–13
opium smuggling by, 36, 53
relationship with Americans, 10–13, 53
relationship with Chinese, 8–9, 21, 22, 35–36, 41, 53–55
bronze cookware, 73–75, 75
Brooklyn Eagle, 153, 164
Bross, William, 103, 106
Buddhism, 19, 153
Buddhist monks, culinary advances by, 89–90, 92
cabbages:
Chinese, 71, 79, 99, 122, 134
as ships’ staple, 2
Caen, Herb, 221
cai, 79–80
See also fan-cai dichotomy
Calcutta, 9
Calcutta lamb, 216
California:
in 1850s, 112, 113–14
as Gold Mountain, 102, 109
gold rush, 102, 107–10, 112–14, 115, 134
See also American West; San Francisco
Canton. See Guangzhou
Cantonese cuisine:
in American restaurants, 123–24, 209–10, 216, 218–19
origins of, 99–102
See also dim sum
Cantonese language, 43
“chop suey” from, 160
and pidgin Chinese, 10
teaching to barbarians, 29
where spoken, 99, 101
carp, 81
casseroles, 100
cassia, 85, 134
cats:
in Chinese cuisine, 23, 24, 231
as stereotyped Chinese food, 58–59, 151–53
in street markets, 23–24, 32
cattle, 80
See also beef
Central Pacific Railroad, 137
cha (tea), 92
See also tea
champagne, 5
Chan, Charlie, 205
Chang, Cecilia, 221
Chao, Buwei Yang, 217–19
Chaozhou dishes, 244
Chapin, Dwight, 230–34
char siu bau (steamed bread), 130
cheeses:
in Chinese cuisine, 46, 86
in western cuisine, 44, 45
See also dairy products
chefs, Chinese:
after Communist takeover, 227
as culinary artists, 65–66, 241
immigration laws affecting, 214, 216, 223
rulebooks for imperial, 92–93
of Shang Dynasty, 74–75, 85–86
for Yuan Mei, 65–66
Chen Zuguan, 13–14
cherry bounce, 46
Chiang Kai-shek, 228, 242
Chicago, 171, 172, 173, 198, 216, 221
Chicago Inter-Ocean, 185
Chicago Tribune:
food stories, 105, 106, 172, 185, 241
news stories, 171, 183, 184
chicken dishes:
beggar’s, 221
“General Tso’s Chicken,” 241–43, 251
Kung Pao, 251
chickens:
domestication of, 81
on sailing vessels, 2
chili peppers, 83, 85
The China (restaurant), 175
China:
antiquity of, 16
climate, 70
geography, 67–70
lexical origins of name, 57–58
as “Middle Kingdom,” 16–19, 29, 58
natural diversity in, 70–71, 81
See also Chinese cuisine; Chinese history
China Clipper (restaurant), 209–10
The China Mission (Dean), 61–62
China Proper, 17, 68, 99–100
China root, 134
China Sea, 69
Chinatowns:
during anti-Chinese movement, 142
during 1930s and 1940s, 208
revitalization of, 243–44
See also New York City Chinatown; San Francisco Chinatown
Chinese-American (newspaper), 153
Chinese Americans:
in American West, 112
–14, 117, 134–43
as cooks and chefs, 133–34, 135, 139, 149
culinary traditions maintained by, 117–19, 129, 134–35, 137–38, 139, 151
on East coast, 169–71
farming by, 121–23, 135, 137, 138, 151, 170, 171, 207
fishing by, 119–20, 121
in Hawaii, 206–7
as laundrymen, 107, 126, 135, 138, 159, 169, 171, 207
marginalization of, 205–6
as merchants, 104, 112, 113, 118–19, 135, 137–38, 149, 151, 171, 206, 207
in Midwest, 171–72
as miners, 108–9, 112–13, 135
in New York. See New York City
as peddlers, 107, 120–21, 123, 129, 149
racism toward. See racism
as railroad laborers, 137–39
as restaurateurs. See Chinese restaurants in America
as sailors, 148, 149
in San Francisco. See San Francisco
as servants, 133, 135, 171
See also Chinese food in America; Chinese restaurants in America