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Chop Suey : A Cultural History of Chinese Food in the United States

Page 29

by Coe, Andrew


  early cooking methods, 73, 76, 84

  in fan-cai dichotomy, 79, 94, 98, 101

  in food therapy, 78

  milling of, 76, 87–88

  See also specific grains

  Grand Vatel, 157

  Grant Avenue (Dupont Street). See San Francisco Chinatown

  Gray, John Henry, 95–96, 97

  Great Depression, 205

  Great Hall of the People, 224, 227, 229, 237

  Great Shanghai (restaurant), 221

  Great Wall of China, 18, 23, 72, 234

  Green, John, 1, 2, 6, 7, 13

  Guangdong, 69

  Guangdong Province, 5, 36, 97, 99–100, 206

  Guangxi Province, 69

  Guangzhou (Canton):

  American missionaries in, 31–34, 59, 60

  blockade of, 36, 40

  food culture of, 24, 35, 71, 97, 98, 100, 101, 112

  geography of, 100

  1700s landscape, 6–7

  as trade center, 7, 8–9, 20, 26, 108, 118

  Guangzhou Province, 17

  Guideways through Mountains and Seas (Shanhaijing), 18, 21

  guo (cooking pot), 87

  Gwathmey Siegel Associates, 215

  Haig, Alexander, 231

  Hakka ethnic group, 206, 244

  Haldeman, H.R., 233, 234

  Hall of Supreme Harmony, 17

  Hammerstein, Oscar, 197

  Hamm, Margherita Arlina, 165

  Han Dynasty:

  culinary history of, 80, 84, 86, 87–91, 92

  expansionism in, 19, 78, 83

  Hang Far Low (restaurant), 123

  Hangzhou, 65, 79

  Harland, Marion, 185

  Harlem, 167

  Harper’s Bazaar, 185–86

  Harte, Bret, 146

  Hawaiian Islands, 27, 41, 109, 206–7

  “The Heathen Chinee” (Harte), 146

  Hee Seung Fung (restaurant), 244

  Henan Province, 72

  Henry, Gale, 195

  Hickey, William, 14

  “high dishes,” 14

  “Hi Lee Hi Lo—I Love you Chop Suey a la Foxee,” 196

  Hinky Dinks Tavern, 216

  hoisan sauce, 223

  Holdridge, John, 230, 232

  “Hold That Critter Down” (Nolan), 139–40

  Holt, Jane, 219

  Hom, Ken, 248

  Honam, 13, 14, 29

  Hong fa-lo (restaurant), 123–24

  Hong Heong Restaurant, 103–7

  Hong Kong:

  ceded to Britain, 37

  culinary culture of, 112, 214

  geography of, 69–70, 100

  as port city, 109, 118, 217

  Honolulu, 206

  Hopper, Edward, 197

  horse meat, in Chinese cuisine, 23, 80, 166, 249

  hot and sour soup, 251

  Hou Ji, 76

  Howells, William Dean (Mr. and Mrs.), 170

  How to Cook and Eat in Chinese, 217–19

  HSF (Hee Seung Fung restaurant), 244

  Huang Di (Yellow Emperor), 73, 78

  Huanghe River (Yellow River), 68–69, 70, 71, 88

  Hunam (restaurant), 241–42, 242

  Hunan cuisine:

  in American restaurants, 221, 241–43, 244

  origins of, 83, 99

  “Hunan Gulch,” 244

  Hunan Province, 83, 99

  Hunan Restaurant, 241

  Hunter, William C., 44–45

  Ichthyophagus Club, 151, 154

  Illustrations of the Tribute-Bearing People of the Qing (1761), 21–22

  immigrants to United States:

  French, 151

  German, 149, 151

  Irish, 133, 137, 140, 149, 151, 173

  Italian, 120, 151

  Jewish, 151, 198–205

  lure of gold for, 102, 107–10, 112–14, 134

  in 1980s, 243–44

  Scandinavian, 151

  and “white slavery” issue, 184

  See also Chinese Americans

  Immigration and Nationality Act, 217, 223

  Imperial China:

  anti-foreign attitudes in, 9, 19, 21–22, 36, 44, 49, 52–53, 165–66

  etiquette of, 43–44, 46–48

  importance of cookery in, 67

  interest in outside world, 19–20

  inventions of, 16

  as “Middle Kingdom,” 16–19, 29

  system of government, 16–17

  trading partnerships, 19–22

  tribute system in, 17, 19–20

  See also Chinese cuisine; Emperors

  Imperial Palace (restaurant), 220

  In a Chinese Restaurant (movie), 195

  India, 9, 10, 19, 36, 83

  insects, as food, 81, 198

  Irish immigrants, 133, 137, 140, 149, 151, 173

  Jade Emperor, 82

  Japan, 19, 221, 247

  Java, 4, 5

  Jay, John, 7

  Jefferson, Thomas, 23, 67

  jellyfish, 82

  Jesuits, 20, 23

  Jewish immigrants, 198–205

  Jiahu village site, 72

  jiaozi (dumplings), 89, 90

  Johnson, Margaret, 196

  Johnson, Samuel, 11

  jujubes, 82

  Jurchen tribesmen, 17–18, 79

  Kaemmerer, Charles, 151–52

  Kaifeng, 94–95

  Kan, Johnny, 220

  Kansas City, 172

  Kansas City Star, 172

  Kan’s Restaurant, 220

  kashrut laws, 198–99, 204–5

  Katz’s Delicatessen, 203

  Kearney, Denis, 141–42, 152

  Keh, David, 224, 241

  Kelly, William, 111

  Ken Hom’s East Meets West Cuisine (Hom), 248

  Kentucky Fried Chicken, 249

  Key Chong, 123, 124

  King Hong Lau (restaurant), 209

  King Honk Low (restaurant), 188

  Kissinger, Henry, 226–27, 228–31, 232, 237, 243

  Kon-Tiki Club, 216

  Korea, 17, 225

  kosher laws, 198–99, 204–5

  kreplach, 210

  kumquats, 82, 119

  Kun Iam Temple (Wang Xia Temple), 42, 47

  Kwoh, Emily, 221

  La Choy, 192–94, 240

  Lajia, 88

  lamb, 80–81, 85, 99, 224

  See also mutton; sheep

  languages of China:

  teaching to barbarians, 29

  used for trade, 9–10

  See also Cantonese language; Mandarin language

  Laos, 17

  Laozi, 75–76

  lard. See fats

  “La Vie de Bohème” (Murger), 156

  Ledyard, John, 25, 27

  Lee Kan, 124

  leeks, 71, 79, 85

  Lee, Virginia, 222

  legumes, 91

  See also beans; soybeans

  Lem Sen, 176

  Lewis, Sinclair, 187, 192

  Libby, McNeil & Libby, 192

  Li Hongzhang, 161–65, 162, 240

  Li Hung Chang, 164, 177

  Liji, 18–19

  Ling, Hawk, 147

  Ling, Leon, 180–83

  Lin Yutang, 199

  Liptzin, Sam, 204

  liquors:

  Chinese rice, 159, 235, 239

  consumed by western traders, 2, 46

  See also alcohol; rice wine; wines

  Li Shu-Fan, 161

  lizards, in Chinese cuisine, 81, 249

  Lloyd, Harold, 195

  lobscouse, 3

  Long Acre (Times) Square, 167, 168

  longans, 82, 101

  Loo, C.M., 220

  loquats, 82

  Lord, Bette Bao, 227

  “Lord Chesterfield’s Advice to his Son, on Men and Manners,” 11

  Lord, Winston, 226–27, 228, 232

  Los Angeles, 140, 173–74

  lotus, 80, 154

  Lum Fong’s (restaurant), 210

 
; Lum Pong Chop Suey Place (nightclub), 189

  Lu Yu, 92

  lychees, 82–83, 101

  Macao, 101

  Macau, China:

  Cushing and Qiying in, 38, 41, 42, 43

  Europeans in, 21, 26

  geography, 5, 69–70, 100

  missionaries in, 31

  Madeira wine, 2, 5, 12

  Magnuson Act of 1943, 216–17

  Maine (battleship), 165

  Main Street (Lewis), 187–88

  maize, 83

  mallow, 71–72

  Manchu, Fu, 205

  Manchuria, 68

  Manchus:

  cuisine of, 46, 47–49, 93, 99

  as rulers of Qing Dynasty, 17–18, 37, 43, 100, 166

  tribal homeland, 68, 99

  Manchu Wok, 247

  Mandarin (restaurant), 221

  Mandarin House (restaurant), 221, 222

  Mandarin language, 17, 29, 43, 160

  mandarin oranges, 82, 119

  Mandate of Heaven, 16–17

  Manifest Destiny, 40–41, 115, 165

  Mannequin (movie), 204

  manners. See etiquette

  mantou (steamed bread), 89, 95

  “A Man Will Do Anything to Make a Living” (Liptzin), 204

  mao-tai (liquor), 235, 239

  Mao Zedong, 225, 226, 227, 232, 237, 239

  marinades, 86

  Marjorie Morningstar (Wouk), 200–203

  The Market for Souls (Goodnow), 184

  markets. See vendors

  Marsh, Reginald, 197

  McAllister, Ward, 155–56

  M’Cardell, Roy L., 168

  McDonald’s, 239–40, 248–49, 250

  meat:

  in Chinese cuisine, 14, 23–24, 48, 80–81, 83–85, 86, 99, 100

  early cooking methods, 83, 84–85, 99, 100

  fermentation of, 86

  and “high” dishes, 14

  in kosher practice, 198

  in western European cuisine, 2, 3, 44, 45

  See also specific meats

  melons, 80, 122

  Mencius, 93

  mian (noodles), 90–91

  See also noodles

  mice, in Chinese cuisine, 58–59

  “Middle Kingdom,” 16–19, 29, 58

  The Middle Kingdom (Williams), 56–59

  millet:

  in Chinese cuisine, 71, 74, 76, 78, 99

  domestication of, 71

  early cooking methods, 73, 76, 84

  noodles from, 88

  Ming Dynasty, 17–18, 20, 98

  mining camps:

  Chinese culinary traditions maintained in, 119, 120, 134–35, 136–37

  Chinese laborers in, 108–9, 112–13, 135

  racism in, 113–14

  western diet in, 135

  Minneapolis, 172

  missionaries in China:

  banquets attended by, 33–34, 63

  and diplomatic negotiations, 39, 40, 52

  first American, 31–35, 53, 55, 59–63, 116, 117

  wives of, 61, 62

  writings of, 33–35, 55–59, 60–63

  missionaries in United States, 115, 207

  mollusks, 82

  Mongolia, 17, 68

  Mongolian barbecue, 221

  Mongol invasion, 37

  Mong Sing Wah’s (restaurant), 157–59

  Monterey Park, 244

  Monzon, Zosimo, 234

  moo goo gai pan, 210

  moo shu pork, 220, 221

  Morse, Edward S., 170

  Mott Street. See New York City Chinatown

  Moy Afong, 149

  Moy Auk’s restaurant, 169

  mung beans, 91

  Murger, Henri, 156

  mushrooms, 80, 86, 99, 192

  muskmelon, 80

  mustard, 79

  mustard sauce, 147

  mutton, 44, 62, 80–81, 99

  See also lamb; sheep

  Nanjing, 65, 217

  Nanking, Treaty of, 37, 39

  New, Ilhan, 192

  New Jersey, 216

  New Joy Young (restaurant), 211–12, 212, 213

  Newman, Ed, 238

  New Year, Chinese, 77

  New York (magazine), 223

  New York City:

  Bohemians in, 156–57, 186

  Broadway, 157, 189, 190, 221, 224, 244

  elites of, 155–56

  immigrants to, 150–51, 198, 199

  Li Hongzhang’s visit to, 161–65, 240

  See also New York City Chinatown; New York City restaurants

  New York City Chinatown:

  anecdotes of, 149–50, 151–53

  as distributor Chinese products, 208

  and Elsie Sigel case, 180–84

  first Chinese newspaper in, 152, 153

  founding of, 148–51

  immigrants to, 150–51, 243–44

  Kaemmerer incident in, 151–53

  Mott Street, 145, 146, 148, 150, 152, 157, 159, 162, 180, 182, 208, 209

  as tourist attraction, 164, 166

  New York City restaurants:

  anecdotes of, 144–48, 157–59, 166, 168

  banquet restaurants in, 208–10

  images of, 146, 167, 242, 245

  menus of, 193, 209–10, 209

  outside of Chinatown, 166–67

  New York Journal, 163, 164

  New York Times:

  entertainment reviews, 196

  food critics, 221–23

  food stories, 215, 219, 222–23, 241

  news stories, 149, 150, 151, 176–77, 215, 238–39

  New York Times Guide to Dining Out in New York (1969), 223

  New York Tribune, 110, 117, 137

  nightclubs, in Chinese restaurants, 188–91, 207

  99 Ranch Market chain, 250

  Ningpo, 53

  Nixon, Patricia, 224, 235, 236, 236, 238

  Nixon, Richard M.:

  diplomatic goals of, 225–26

  etiquette concerns of, 234–36

  favorite foods of, 233–34

  welcoming banquet for, 224–25, 225, 237–39

  Nolton, Jessie Louise, 185

  no-ma-das, 159

  noodles:

  in Chinese cuisine, 76, 88, 90–91, 95, 98, 99

  chop suey, 147

  chow mein, 192, 194

  evolution of, 88, 90–91

  oldest found, 88

  Nordhoff, Charles, 137

  North China:

  climate, 70

  earliest crops, 71–72, 76

  geography, 69

  military campaigns, 79

  North China Plain, 69, 70, 99

  Northern regional cuisine of China, 99, 221

  nuts, in Chinese cuisine, 71, 83

  Oakie, Jack, 196

  “Ode to Bing” (Shu), 88–89

  Ogden Standard, 183

  oils:

  in Chinese cuisine, 59, 92

  from seeds, 85

  Olympics, Beijing Summer, 248–50

  onions, 35, 71, 79, 99

  Oomologma (Mount Everest), 68

  opium:

  in America, 128, 150, 166, 175, 184, 185

  in China, 36, 53, 60

  Opium War, 36–37, 39, 40, 53

  oranges, 82, 101, 119

  Oriental Restaurant, 193

  Orient Luau (restaurant), 216

  Overland Monthly, 131

  oxen, 80

  oyster sauce, 100

  Pacific islands, 27

  Panda Express (franchise), 247

  Parker, Mrs. Peter, 44

  Parker, Peter:

  as China expert, 41, 43, 46, 47

  as missionary to China, 32, 40, 60

  Paunkeiqua, 29–30

  peaches, 71, 82

  Pearl River (Zhu River), 5, 6, 69–70, 100

  Pearl River Delta:

  agriculture in, 100–102, 122

  cuisine of, 100–102, 150, 154–55, 161, 168, 206

  cultural history of, 72

 
; fishing tradition in, 119

  geography of, 69–70, 100–102

  immigrants from, 102, 112–13, 117, 119–20, 154–55, 159–60, 206

  1700s landscape, 5, 6

  Pearl’s Chinese Restaurant, 215

  pears, 82

  peddlers. See vendors

  Pekin (restaurant), 189

  Peking. See Beijing

  Peking duck, 99, 220, 229, 230, 240, 248, 250

  Peking Man, 71

  Peking Restaurant, 220, 222, 224

  Peng Chang-kuei, 242–43

  Peng’s, 243

  People’s Republic of China, 58, 68, 225, 226, 234–35

  See also China

  pepper, 30

  Sichuan, 83, 85

  Persia, 83

  persimmons, 63, 71, 82

  Pfaff’s saloon, 157

  P.F. Chang’s China Bistro, 247, 249

  Philadelphia, 23, 50, 169, 170, 248

  Philadelphia Enquirer, 178

  pickles, 86, 91, 137

  pidgin Chinese, 9–10

  Pierce, Idaho, 137

  pigs:

  domestication of, 72, 81

  on sailing vessels, 2

  See also pork

  plums, 82

  plum sauce, 82, 147

  Polo diplomatic trips, 227, 230, 231, 232

  Polo, Marco, 58, 91

  Polyglot House (restaurant), 139

  pomegranates, 83

  pomelos, 82

  pork:

  in Chinese cuisine, 67, 74, 80, 81, 93, 99, 100, 134

  in kosher practice, 198, 204–5

  in western culinary tradition, 2

  pork dishes:

  barbecued, 216

  moo shu pork, 220, 221

  roofs of hogs’ mouths, 48

  See also chop suey

  Port Arthur (restaurant), 146, 180, 181

  Portugal, 5, 21, 83

  potatoes:

  sweet, 83

  in western cuisine, 2, 44, 134

  poultry. See chickens; ducks; geese

  Po Yi, 72

  prawns, 67, 239

  prejudice. See racism

  Prima, Louis, 197

  Prohibition, 189, 207

  Puck, Wolfgang, 248

  pupu platters, 215

  Qianlong Emperor, 17

  Qin Dynasty, 57, 78

  Qing Dynasty:

  culinary history of, 77, 93, 95, 98, 99, 227

  decline of, 53

  hairstyle of, 43

  Manchu rulers of, 17–18, 37, 43, 100

  xenophobia of, 19

  Qiying:

  banquet with Americans, 44, 46–49

  culinary skill of, 48

  as imperial emissary, 37, 41–44, 49

  portrait of, 56

  racism toward Chinese:

  in American West, 113–17, 126, 127, 139–43, 174–75

  in arts and entertainment, 139–40, 196–97

  and Chinese Exclusion Act, 142, 161, 205, 206, 216–17

  in newspapers, 140, 176

  and “white slavery” stereotypes, 183–84, 195

  radishes, 79, 122

  railroad construction, 137–38, 171

  Ranhofer, Charles, 156

  Rather, Dan, 239

  Ratner’s dairy restaurant, 203, 204

  rats:

  in Chinese cuisine, 24, 61

  as stereotyped Chinese food, 58–59, 114, 124, 129, 151–53, 166, 172

 

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