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Renovation 4th Edition

Page 25

by Michael Litchfield


   Apply another 1⁄4-in. layer of mastic over

   Foot traffic or roof decks placed directly

  the webbing, feathering its edges so it can

  on the roof membrane. Roof decks should be

  shed water.

  supported by floating posts fastened to rafters

  A three-course patch also is effective on failed

  through the sheathing and flashed correctly.

  flashing, where dissimilar materials meet, and

  for other leak-prone areas.

  repairing roof blisters. If there are no leaks

  below and the blister is intact, stay away from it.

  tiLe and sLate Roofs

  Don’t step on it, cut it, or nail through it. However,

  if it has split, press it to see what comes out. If

  Tile and slate are relatively brittle, expensive, and

  the roof is dry, only air will escape; if the roof is

  easily damaged if you don’t know what you’re

  wet, water will emerge. In the latter case, let the

  doing. And they’re slippery when wet. In most

  inside of the blister dry by holding the side open

  cases, hire a pro to make repairs.

  with wood shims; if you’re in a hurry, use a hair

  Tile and slate are so durable that they often

  dryer. Once the blister has dried inside, patch it.

  outlast the underlayment and fasteners. So when

  Professionals repair split blisters with a three-

  repairing or replacing these roofs, prolong the life

  course patch, which requires no nails:

  of the installation by using heavy underlayment

  102 Chapter 5

  (30-lb. building paper or a self-adhering bitumi-

  shanks may prevent sliding a full-length replace-

  nous membrane), copper attachers, and copper

  ment piece into place.

  flashing. Although these materials are expensive,

  That done, align the bottom edge of the

  if the roof lasts upward of 60 years without leak-

  replacement slate to others in the course. Predrill

  ing, it’s money well spent.

  two nail holes, each one 1 in. from the edge and

  about 1 in. below the course above; you’ll proba-

  roof tiles weigh about three times as much as

  bly be drilling through two layers of slate, so take

  asphalt shingles. So if you’re thinking of install-

  it slow. (Use a cordless drill with a carbide-tip

  ing a new type of tile or tiling a roof for the first

  bit.) Size the drill bit just slightly larger than the

  time, have a structural engineer evaluate your sit- thickness of the nail shank. Because this pair of

  uation. Your roof framing may need bolstering to nails won’t be covered by the slate above, caulk

  support the additional load.

  all holes with urethane before inserting nails.

  Tiles are available as two-piece mission-barrel

  Drive the nails down just snug and no more so

  tiles; as one-piece low-profile concrete tiles; and as you don’t split the slate.

  flat-shake tiles, which mimic wood shakes. Tiles

  overlap to direct rain into tile channels.

  Individual mission-barrel tiles are

  Traditionally, tiles were set without nails on wood

  irregular, so it’s smart to snap

  battens or skip-sheathing. But today they are

  horizontal chalklines to align tile

  courses and vertical lines to line up

  commonly nailed to plywood sheathing, especially

  trough tiles, which are nailed directly

  if the roof pitch is 5-in-12 or steeper. Two-piece

  to the roof deck. Cap tiles, which lie

  mission tiles are nailed in two manners: Trough

  atop trough tiles, are secured to the

  tiles are nailed directly to sheathing. Cap tiles,

  roof deck with copper wire. To

  which sit atop trough tiles, are attached to inter-

  prevent galvanic corrosion, use nails

  vening copper wires nailed to the roof.

  and wires of the same material.

  slate roofs are most often damaged by tree

  limbs. You can usually make repairs safely if the

  damage is along an edge and hence reachable

  without requiring that you walk on the roof. If

  you note a number of missing slates and rust

  stains on the roof, the nails may be rusting

  through, creating an extremely dangerous situa-

  tion. Call a slate specialist at once.

  To repair incidental damage, buy a slate hook.

  Work the head of the tool up under the damaged

  piece until the tool’s hooked head catches a nail

  shank. Then strike the handle of the tool with a

  hammer to cut through the nail shank. When

  both shanks are severed, slide out the damaged

  slate, being careful not to disturb adjacent pieces.

  Once the damaged slate is on the ground,

  transfer its dimensions onto a replacement slate.

  Then rent a tile-cutting saw to cut the new piece,

  wearing goggles. Or ask a tile dealer to cut the

  piece for you. Ideally, the new piece should be the If properly installed over a durable membrane—such as the

  same size as the one it’s replacing, but old nail

  fiberglass-reinforced underlayment shown here—a tile

  roof can last 80 years.

  tile-Roof underLayMenT

  When replacing sections of slate or

  slatelike materials, alternate slate

  A rubberized asphalt underlayment reinforced with fiberglass, layfastSBS® is getting

  courses with strips of 30-lb. building

  a lot of buzz among professionals. Specified for tile roofs, it’s installed in two layers

  paper. Century-old sheathing boards

  (double-papered) with 36-in.-wide sheets overlapped 19 in. Tiles often gouge build-

  can become pretty hard, so if copper

  nails bend or deform, use stainless-

  ing paper underlayment during installation, but not this stuff, which is also specified

  steel roofing nails instead.

  for shake, shingle, and metal roofs.

  Roofs

  103

  Doors, Windows,

  6 and Skylights

  We ask doors, windows, and skylights to do a installing prehung interior doors and then move

  lot. They must be durable yet movable, let in light on to exterior doors, which require additional

  yet keep out rain, admit guests but deny drafts.

  weatherproofing steps. But first a few words

  Mediators of outside and in, they largely decide

  about selecting and sizing doors.

  how comfortable, healthful, and energy-efficient

  a home is. Choosing and installing these units is

  Ordering Doors: An Overview

  complicated, and you’ll find related information

  Door frames consist of several pieces: two side

  in several other chapters: flashing in chapters 5

  pieces, or side jambs, and a head jamb (or frame

  and 7; openings in exterior walls, repairing rot,

  head), running across the top; exterior doors also

  and structural elements in chapter 8; installing

  have a sill spanning the bottom. (The sill may

  casing in chapter 17; and energy conservation

  also have a threshold, but more about that later.)

  and air quality in chapter 14.

  Jambs are further distinguished by the hardware

  I
’ll take this chapter in order: doors first, then

  they bear: The jamb on which the door is hung is

  windows, and finally skylights. Proceeding from

  the hinge jamb, whereas the jamb that receives

  simple to more complex tasks, I’ll start with

  Getting ready for liftoff: The rough

  opening, wrapped in flashing tape,

  awaits a prehung triple-casement

  window. After removing the

  protective plastic and shipping

  blocks, the crew will test-fit the unit

  in the opening.

  104

  the latch is the latch jamb (also called strike jamb

  or lock jamb).

  On a common frame-and-panel door, the

  zzzzzz Door, Door Frame, and Rough Opening

  ROUGH OPENING

  thicker vertical elements are called stiles; hence,

  hinge stile and latch (or strike) stile. Horizontal

  Cripple stud

  elements are called rails. Glass panes in French

  DOOR FRAME

  doors are called lights, and the thin wood strips

  DOOR ELEMENTS

  between lights are called muntins.

  Head jamb

  Consider the following factors when order-

  Head rail

  ing doors:

  Top

  Interior versus exterior. Exterior doors are gen-

  plate

  Header

  erally thicker (13⁄

  Hinge

  4 in. versus 13⁄8 in.), more expen-

  stile

  sive, more weather-resistant, and more secure

  than interior doors. Exterior doors may have

  King

  water- or UV-resistant finishes and often are insu-

  Lock or

  stud

  lated and weatherstripped. Don’t use interior

  latch rail

  doors outside—they won’t last.

  Prehung. Prehung (preframed) doors come fit-

  ted to a frame, with hinges mortised into a jamb.

  Sole

  Ordering prehung doors can save huge amounts

  Panel

  plate

  of time. However, if doorways are already

  framed, specify unframed doors (see “Hanging a

  Door to an Existing Frame” on p. 128).

  Hinge jamb

  Knockdown prehung doors arrive with the

  Bottom

  Jack stud

  Latch stile

  frame head cut to the correct width and all other

  rail

  (trimmer stud)

  parts milled with correct clearances around the

  Latch jamb

  door, but the parts are not assembled. This allows

  you to trim the jambs down to the right length

  for your flooring and threshold heights.

  Suppliers will cut exterior sills to fit if you ask

  them to, but many contractors prefer to buy sills

  doors 7 ft. high, so that size is still widely avail-

  separately and fit them on site.

  able. Of late, 8-ft.-high French doors are in vogue

  Width. Door widths increase in 2-in. increments. because they allow light to penetrate far into liv-

  When door dimensions are stated as a pair of

  ing spaces. Of course, you can special-order a

  numbers, width always comes first—for example, door of virtually any size if you’re willing to pay

  2 ft. 8 in. by 6 ft. 8 in. (this is sometimes abbrevi-

  for it. Salvage yards are excellent sources of odd-

  ated as 2868).

  size doors.

  Standard interior doors are 2 ft. 6 in. and

  Jambs. Wall thickness determines the width of

  2 ft. 8 in. wide. For doors leading to busy hall-

  door jambs if you order prehung units. Interior

  ways, or if you need extra room for a wheelchair door jambs are commonly 49⁄16 in. wide, which

  or walker, architects often specify 2 ft. 10 in. or

  can span a 2x4 stud wall (actual width, 31⁄2 in.)

  3 ft. 0 in. You can also special-order interior

  with 1⁄2-in. drywall on both sides—leaving 1⁄16 in.

  doors 3 ft. 6 in. wide. Narrow doors (2 ft. 0 in. to to spare. Typically, interior door jambs are built

  2 ft. 4 in.) are available for half-baths and closets; from 3⁄4-in.-thick stock (nominal 1 in.).

  even narrower ones (1 ft. 4 in. to 1 ft. 10 in.) are

  For 2x6 walls (actual width, 51⁄2 in.), specify

  for linen closets and such.

  69⁄16-in.-wide jambs, which can accommodate

  Standard exterior doors are 3 ft. 0 in. wide,

  two wall-sandwiching layers of 1⁄2-in. drywall

  although side doors are sometimes 2 ft. 8 in. or

  or—on an exterior wall—1⁄2-in. drywall and 1⁄2-in.

  2 ft. 10 in. wide. You can special-order extra-wide plywood sheathing. Jambs for prehung exterior

  42-in. exterior doors, but their greater weight

  doors are usually fashioned from 11⁄2-in.-thick

  requires larger hinges, and, of course, extra-wide

  stock, rabbeted with an integral doorstop to

  doors need a greater area of free space when they receive the door when closed.

  swing open.

  Standard-width jambs won’t work if your

  Height. Standard door height is 6 ft. 8 in., for

  old house has full-dimension lumber and plaster

  both interior and exterior doors on newer houses. walls or if you’re covering walls with 5⁄8-in. dry-

  Older houses (1940s and earlier) sometimes had

  wall. Your choices then become (1) jamb exten-

  sions to increase the width of standard jambs,

  Doors, Windows, and Skylights

  105

  (2) custom-milled jambs, including 1⁄8 in. extra

  to accommodate wavy walls or twisted lumber,

  and (3) split jambs, which are interlocking half-

  zzzzzz Interior Wall Cross Section

  1/2-in. drywall

  jambs that can be adjusted to the width of a

  2x4

  wall. (An integral doorstop covers the gap

  (actually 31/2 in. wide)

  between sections.)

  Doorstop

  Swing. Door swing indicates which side you

  want the hinges on. Imagine facing the door as it

  swings open toward you: If the doorknob will hit

  your right hand first, it’s a right-handed door; if

  your left hand grabs the knob, then it’s a left-

  P R O T I P

  handed door. Another big distinction—usually

  ignored—is whether a door swings in or out. The

  Double exterior units such as

  vast majority of residential exterior doors are

  French doors have an active door,

  inswings, but outswing doors are better at sealing

  which usually opens, and a semi-

  active one, which opens only

  out drafts and water, as explained on p. 126.

  when the throw bolts are

  Type and style. Hinged single doors are by far

  retracted. When specifying hard-

  the most common type, but they need room to

  ware, indicate which door is

  operate. If space is tight, consider sliding doors,

  Shims

  Jamb casing

  active because it gets the cylin-

  pocket doors, or bifolds. For wide openings,

  der or mortise lock. And make

  note that hinged double doors individually weigh

  sure the door stile is wide enough

  Frame jamb

  less and take less room to swin
g open than one

  to receive that lockset: French

  massive door.

  door stiles are often narrower

  A standard frame jamb, which is 49/16 in. wide,

  than those of hinged single doors.

  Try to match existing doors in the house or

  can span a stud wall sandwiched between 1/2 in.

  those on houses of a similar architectural style.

  drywall panels.

  In general, frame-and-panel doors tend to go well

  with older houses and flush doors have a more

  contemporary look. For that reason, flush sliding

  doors on older homes are usually placed on the

  back of the house so they don’t look inconsistent

  with the front and side facades.

  Installation, in a Nutshell

  Most doors, windows, and skylights are preassembled in fac-

  tories and delivered prehung, which makes installation much

  As you level and plumb windows and doors, use pairs of tapered

  shims to hold units in their rough openings. Installers often use

  easier. Basically, you screw or nail the unit into a rough open-

  8d finish nails to tack jambs in place, but this photo shows a

  ing (RO). If the opening is in an exterior wall, weatherproof it

  carpenter using trim-head screws, which are easier to remove

  first—wrap it with building paper, apply rigid or flexible flash-

  when adjusting shims and less likely to bend than finish nails.

  Their small heads are easy to sink, fill, or cover with a stop.

  ing, and install cap flashing over the top. Rough openings are

  typically 1⁄2 in. to 1 in. wider and taller than the outside

  dimensions of the door or window frame that you are installing.

  Rough openings are rarely square or perfectly sized, so you

  need to insert pairs of shims (thin, tapered pieces of wood)

  between the square frame and the often out-of-square opening.

  Shimming takes patience. But if you install shims carefully,

  doors, windows, and skylights will operate freely, without bind-

  ing. Once a prehung window or door is installed in its RO, stuff

  loose insulation or spray low-expanding foam insulation

  between the door or window frame and the framing to seal air

  drafts, then cover those gaps with casing.

  106 Chapter 6

  If your exterior door has glass panels, they

  should be double glazed at the least; triple glaz-

  ing is more energy efficient but costs more.

  zzzzzz Positioning Door Hardware

  Double glazing and a storm door may be a better

  1/8-in. gap between

  choice. Finally, prefinish exterior doors with a

 

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