Book Read Free

Renovation 4th Edition

Page 26

by Michael Litchfield


  door and frame

  UV- and water-resistant finish; at the very least,

  Head

  prime or seal all sides and edges.

  casing

  Hardware. Hardware for prehung doors is

  Top of

  installed at the factory, then locksets and door

  top hinge

  7 in.

  handles are removed to prevent damage during

  shipping.

  As indicated in “Sizing Hinges” at right below,

  Jamb

  casing

  hollow-core or solid-wood interior doors up to

  13⁄8 in. thick can be supported by two 31⁄2-in. by

  Equal

  31⁄2-in. (opened size) hinges, whereas 13⁄4-in.-

  thick exterior doors usually require three 4-in. by

  4-in. hinges. Extra-heavy exterior doors may

  need even bigger hinges or hinges with ball bear-

  Center of

  ings or grease fittings.

  middle hinge

  As shown in “Mortise Lockset” on p. 122 and

  “Cylinder Lockset” on p. 123, exterior locksets are

  most often cylinder locks, which require a 21⁄8-in.

  hole drilled through the face of the door, or a

  mortise lock, which is housed in a rectangular

  Equal

  mortise cut into the latch edge of the door.

  Lockset centered

  Mortise locks are more expensive and difficult to

  36 in. to 38 in.

  above floor

  install, so they are most often used only on entry

  Bottom of

  doors, with a thumb-lever handle. For added

  bottom hinge

  security, supplement exterior-door locksets with a

  dead bolt and a reinforced strike plate.

  11 in.

  Double exterior doors may have interconnected

  locksets and flush bolts or surface bolts. Interior

  locksets are almost always some kind of cylinder

  lock: passage locks or latch sets on doors that

  don’t need to be locked and privacy locks or lock-

  sets on doors that do need locking, such as bed-

  room doors. Bathroom locks are specialized lock-

  Sizing Hinges

  sets with a chrome bathroom-facing knob to

  opened hinge

  door

  door

  match plumbing fixtures.

  size (in.)

  Thickness (in.) WidTh (in.)

  Instal ing an Interior Door

  31⁄2

  

  11⁄8–13⁄8

  Up to 32

  Prehung doors come preassembled in a frame,

  4

  

  11⁄8–13⁄8

  32–37

  with the door hung on hinges and held shut (for

  shipping) by a single screw through the latch

  41⁄2

  

  13⁄8–17⁄8

  Up to 32

  jamb into the edge of the door. Or the door

  5

  

  13⁄8–17⁄8

  32–37

  may be secured with a removable plastic plug

  through a predrilled hole where the lock will go.

  5, extra-heavy

  

  17⁄8 and up

  37–43

  When your doors arrive at the work site, store

  6, extra-heavy

  them in a dry place out of harm’s way, with their

  

  17⁄8 and up

  43 and up

  packaging undisturbed until you’re ready to

  install them. Because millwork can absorb mois-

  ture, store the door(s) in conditioned space

  if possible.

  There are as many ways to install a prehung

  door as there are carpenters. In general, opin-

  ions fall into one of two camps: those who favor

  Doors, Windows, and Skylights

  107

  leaving the door on the hinges while installing

  earned his stripes building tract homes in

  the frame in the rough opening (Method 1), and

  100°F summers, it favors speed and economy

  those who favor pulling the hinges and removing of movement.

  the door, installing the frame, and then replacing

  the door in the frame (Method 2).

  CHeCkINg AND

  P R O T I P

  There’s no one right way. Method 1 is some-

  PRePPINg tHe OPeNINg

  what quicker, but it requires a second set of hands

  For aesthetic reasons, the top

  It’s helpful to assess the rough opening (RO)

  and constant communication between you and

  of a new door should be the same

  closely and develop a plan of attack. If you know

  your helper on the other side of the door. Leaving

  height as that of nearby doors

  exactly what you need to do, you can reduce the

  the door in the frame also reduces chances that

  and windows. try to match that

  number of times you put the frame in and out of

  you’ll damage the door. However, if you’re working

  height exactly because the eye

  the opening, which eats up time.

  notices even slight discrepancies.

  alone, method 2 is probably the way to go. The

  frame will be a lot lighter and less unwieldy if you

  1. Measure the height and width of the rough

  take the door out first. And by being able to see

  opening. ROs are typically 2 in. wider than the

  both sides of a jamb as you shim and adjust it,

  door, which allows 3⁄4 in. for the thickness of each

  you’ll be more likely to get it right the first time.

  jamb and about 1⁄4 in. to shim on each side. RO

  The photo sequence on pp. 109–111 is a varia-

  height is usually 82 in. from the subfloor, which

  tion of method 1. Learned by a carpenter who

  leaves 3⁄4 in. for the thickness of a finish floor,

  Prep Steps

  Start by surveying the rough opening. Check

  the dimensions of the rough opening, the thickness

  of walls from finish surface to finish surface,

  whether trimmer studs are plumb, and make sure

  the floor is level.

  . . . and use a square to mark the bottom of the high-side

  jamb. Cut off the amount that side is high, reinsert the frame

  in the opening, and check the head jamb for level again.

  For best support, side jambs should rest on the subfloor or

  finish floor. Some carpenters start their installation by

  standing the frame in the opening to check the head jamb for

  level. If it is not level, note by how much, remove the frame . . .

  Use a square to see if jamb edges are flush to finished walls. If the jamb

  edges are flush or slightly proud (projecting beyond drywall), casing

  corner joints will meet. However, if the jamb is shy (shallower than the

  drywall), mitered joints will gap.

  108 Chapter 6

  approximately 1⁄4 in. of clearance under the door,

  a standard 80-in. door, the 3⁄4-in. thickness of the

  WHere Dissimilar

  head jamb, and room to shim.

  FloorIng MeeTS

  2. Measure the thickness of the wall, from fin-

  ish surface to finish surface. Interior 2x4 walls

  if a doorway is a juncture between different fin-

  covered with 1⁄2-in. drywall are 41⁄2 in. thick, so

  ish floors—say, wood and ti
le—a square cut

  standard jamb stock is 49⁄16 in. wide, providing an

  across the bottom of the jambs won’t be possi-

  extra 1⁄16 in. to accommodate wall irregularities

  ble because the floors’ thicknesses will vary. in

  when you install the door casing. If your building

  that case, let the jambs rest on the subfloor and

  plans call for 5⁄

  P R O T I P

  8-in. drywall, which would produce

  notch the flooring around the jambs. cover the

  a wall 43⁄4 in. thick, specify jamb stock 47⁄8 in.

  joint with some kind of transition strip, typically

  thick when ordering a prehung door.

  In general,

  a prefinished oak threshold trimmed underneath

  use pairs of shims

  3.

  with their tapers pointing in

  Check the opening and remove anything

  along one side to accommodate the thicker

  opposite directions to create an

  that could interfere with installing the door.

  flooring. run a bead of silicone under both

  even gap between a door jamb

  Occasionally, installers will run drywall past the

  edges of the threshold so it will stay put.

  and a stud. Wood shingles make

  trimmers, so cut it back so it’s flush with the edge

  great shims because they taper.

  of the opening. Likewise, if a sole plate protrudes

  Occasionally, when a stud is

  into the opening, use a reciprocating saw to cut

  slightly twisted and so creates a

  it flush.

  tapered gap, you’ll use just one

  allow 1⁄

  4.

  2 in. of clearance between the bottom of

  Check that the subfloor or floor is level and

  tapered shim to fill that space.

  the door and the finish floor.

  the trimmer studs are plumb. If the floor slopes,

  you will shorten the jamb on the high side so the

  4. If the finish floors are not yet installed,

  head jamb will be more or less level. Whatever

  stand the side jambs on scrap blocks of flooring.

  installation method you use, the crucial step is

  When it’s time to install the flooring, just pull out

  plumbing the hinge jamb of the frame. So, as you the blocks and slide the finish flooring under the

  assess the RO, pay special attention to the trim-

  jambs. Otherwise, the flooring contractor would

  mer stud on the hinge side. If it’s not plumb, note have to notch around the jamb profile, which is

  which way it leans.

  time consuming. Alternately, you could let the

  jambs rest on the subfloor and, later, the installer

  SettINg tHe FRAMe, AND

  could use a flush-cutting saw to trim the jamb

  tACkINg tHe HINge jAMB

  bottoms so he could slide the flooring under.

  5. Having trimmed the jambs as needed, once

  Again, the photo sequence depicts method 1, in

  again margin the hinge jamb in the RO, and tack

  which the door stays in the frame as it’s installed.

  it to the trimmer stud, using three 8d (21⁄2-in.)

  1. Stand the door frame in the RO. Starting

  finish nails, one nail below each of the three

  with the hinge jamb, use a Speed Square to mar-

  hinges. Now you’re ready to plumb the hinge

  gin the frame—that is, to center the door frame

  jamb. (As the door is mounted and closed at this

  within the thickness of the wall. If the jamb stock point, open the door to nail off the jamb.)

  was correctly sized, the jamb edges will be more

  or less flush to finish surfaces on both sides.

  SeCURINg tHe FRAMe,

  2. As one person holds the frame in place

  AND FOllOWINg tHe ReveAl

  against the hinge jamb, the other checks the

  height of the unit and the RO. Ideally, there

  1. Holding a 6-ft. level to the hinge jamb, drive

  should be 1⁄

  shims between the door jamb and the RO until

  2 in. of clearance between the bottom

  of the door and the finish floor. If the floor is

  the jamb is plumb. Because finish nail shanks

  level, remove the frame from the opening and, as are small, one nail won’t offer a lot of resistance

  needed, use a circular saw to trim an equal

  as you drive a pair of shims behind it. In other

  amount from both jamb legs. Replace the frame

  words, the nail will hold the jamb in place but

  in the opening, and use a level to check the head

  can be pulled out slightly. To avoid bowing the

  jamb for level.

  jamb, place shims directly behind the hinges

  if possible.

  3. If the floor slopes, you’ll need to remove

  more from the high-side jamb. Remove the frame

  2. Once the hinge jamb is plumbed, nail it off

  A. Plumbing the hinge jamb is the

  from the opening, use a circular saw to trim the

  in earnest, using two 8d nails per shimming

  critical part of most door

  bottom of the jamb, replace the frame in the RO,

  point. Drive these nails through the pair of shims. installations, so get a sense of how

  and check the head jamb for level. Here again,

  In addition, remove the middle screw of each

  much shimming you’ll need to do to

  make that side plumb.

  Doors, Windows, and Skylights

  109

  trimming Doors

  When the door swings open, it should not “pattern” your carpet or abrade the finish

  floor. If it does, trim the bottom rail of the door. to register the height of the carpet on

  the base of the door, slide a flat builder’s pencil across the carpet. the pencil, being

  flat, won’t sink into the carpet as much as a round pencil would. Add 1⁄8 in. of clearance

  to that rough line and score the final cutoff line onto the door, using a utility knife

  drawn along a straightedge. Scoring the door is important because it prevents wood

  grain from splitting and veneer from lifting and splintering. Run the circular saw a

  whisker below that scored line and you’ll get a nice, clean cut.

  For best results, use a circular saw with a sharp Mastercut® blade, which has a close

  configuration of at least four fine teeth and a raker to clear chips. Use a straightedge

  clamped to the door to guide the blade. Clean the saw sole (base plate) well: Degum it

  with turpentine (or paint thinner) and steel wool, then rub it with a metal-polishing

  cloth or paraffin to help it glide across the wood. Smooth the cut, and ease the edge

  with 220-grit sandpaper, sanding with the grain.

  B. If you’ve got help, leaving a prehung door in its frame

  is generally a faster way to install it.

  hinge plate and replace it with a 21⁄2-in. to 3-in.

  screw that sinks solidly into the trimmer. Secured

  in that manner, that hinge jamb won’t be going

  anywhere.

  3. Between the door and the hinge jamb, you’ll

  notice a slight reveal (gap), typically about 1⁄8 in.,

  created at the factory so that the door would fit

  C. In this method, margin (center) the hinge jamb in the

  closely but without binding. If you maintain that

  wall, then tack it to the trimmer stud with just t
hree finish

  1⁄8-in. reveal between the door and the frame as

  nails—one beneath each hinge.

  you shim the head and latch jambs, the door will

  operate freely and look good. This method is

  called following the reveal, and it works well

  because your eye notices the gap first and fore-

  most. So you can relax about abstractions such

  as plumb and level. Set your level aside if you

  110 Chapter 6

  G. Margin the latch jamb, tack it to

  the stud, shut the door, and continue

  reading the reveal between the door

  and the latch jamb, adding shim

  pairs until the reveal is even. Keep

  tweaking.

  D. Then, holding your level against the hinge jamb, gently

  drive pairs of shims between the hinge jamb and the stud

  to bring the jamb into plumb. Because the finish nails

  don’t offer much resistance, the jamb will move into

  position easily, yet remain tacked to the RO.

  H. Once the reveal is even on all

  sides, nail the frame securely, using a

  like. (If you are using method 2, once you’ve

  pair of finish nails at each shimming

  tacked the hinge jamb and the head jamb, you

  point. To add holding power, some

  installers also replace each middle

  can set the door back on its hinges.)

  hinge screw with a 21⁄2-in. screw that

  4. Because you’ve already margined the hinge sinks into the framing.

  E. Once the hinge jamb is plumbed and shimmed, margin jamb, that corner of the head jamb should be

  the head jamb and tack it with a single nail near the top of centered as well. So, using a Speed Square, mar-

  the latch jamb. This holds it loosely in position.

  gin the latch corner of the head jamb, then use

  two 8d finish nails to tack it to the header. Shut

  the door so you can read the reveal between the

  top of the door and the head jamb; add shims

  and adjust the head jamb so there’s an even 1⁄8-in.

  reveal along its length.

  5. Next, follow the reveal to the latch jamb.

  Margin the latch jamb, tack it in place, and add

  three pairs of shims—one at each corner and one

  behind the latch strike plate. This step goes best

  with a worker on either side of the closed door—

  one reading the reveal and advising whether to

  push shims in or out at each point. When the

  reveal is even along the latch jamb, nail it off

  I. Trim shims flush and you’re ready

  with two 8d nails through each set of shims. If

  to add casing. Here, an oscillating

  the jamb stock is straight, three pairs of shims

 

‹ Prev