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Renovation 4th Edition

Page 88

by Michael Litchfield


  P R O T I P

  not a problem, what with soap dispensers, hot-

  keep clean. They’re also stain- and crack-

  water dispensers, spray units, filtered-water dis-

  resistant, available in many colors, and

  pensers, and so on to choose from. Incompatibility

  if you choose

  reasonably priced. However, compared with

  a replacement

  more often occurs when a faucet assembly’s valve

  sink the same size as the old one,

  solid-surface materials, acrylics are relatively

  stems have a different spacing than the holes in

  you won’t need to adjust the

  soft, so they should be cleaned with non-

  the sink. Always measure the sink and the faucet

  counter opening to install a

  abrasive cleaners. They can be damaged by

  larger sink. Moreover, if there’s

  assembly to be sure. Likewise, if the sink is

  extreme heat and may be incompatible with

  an under-counter dishwasher

  undermounted, an installer must drill holes into

  petroleum-based cleaners and caulks. Cost:

  next to the sink cabinet, there

  a countertop, making sure they have the same

  $150 to $300.

  may be no room for a longer sink.

  spacing as the faucet to be installed.

  Mounting style. There are a number of mount-

  Materials. Sink materials include many of those

  ing styles, although almost all require a bead of

  used for countertops. You can use almost any-

  sealant along their perimeter to keep water from

  thing that will hold water, but ideally it should be getting under the sink rim. Mounting styles

  light enough to install without breaking your

  include self-rimming, undermount, integral,

  back, easy to clean, durable, moderately priced,

  flush mount, and separate rim.

  heat-resistant, and stain-resistant. Few materials

   Self-rimming sinks are popular and easy

  fill the bill as well as stainless steel.

  to install because the sink rim sits on the

   Stainless-steel sinks represent roughly

  countertop—after you’ve applied a bead of

  three-quarters of all kitchen installations.

  silicone sealant around the perimeter of the

  Typically, they have a brushed or polished

  sink cutout. Heavier sinks, such as cast iron,

  finish; brushed finishes are easier to maintain

  are held in place by the adhesion of the sealant

  because water spots don’t show as conspicu-

  and the weight of the sink, whereas lighter

  ously. A sink’s gauge (thickness) is the real

  sinks, such as stainless steel, require clips on

  differentiator. Thicker gauges (16 to 18 ga.) are

  the underside of the counter. When a self-

  harder to flex and dent and are quieter to use,

  rimming sink is set under a countertop, as

  whereas thinner gauges (20 to 22 ga.) are less

  shown on p. 378, it may be called a counter-

  expensive, less durable, and more inclined to

  under sink.

  stain. Cost: This can range widely, from $40 for

   Undermount sinks are placed under a

  a 22-ga. single-bowl sink to hundreds for a

  counter whose sink opening must be finished

  custom-made, 16-ga. commercial-grade sink

  because it isn’t covered by the sink rim.

  with multiple bowls.

  Counters with undermount sinks are easy to

   Enameled cast-iron or enameled-steel

  keep clean because there’s no rim to block

  sinks are available in numerous colors and

  food scraps; just sweep them into the sink.

  provide a classic look that works in modern

  Typically, clips attach the rim to the underside

  and traditional kitchens. Enameled sinks have

  of the counter; many contractors also add

  a hard finish, but the enamel can chip, making

  framing inside the sink cabinet to support the

  the metal substrate likely to rust. Abrasive

  sink when it’s filled with water.

  cleaners quickly dull enamel finishes. Cast

   Integral sinks are bonded to a counter of

  iron is so heavy that it takes two people to

  the same material, creating a seamless, leak-

  install it and so hard that it’s monstrously

  free joint. Integral sinks are common to solid-

  difficult to drill if you need an additional hole

  surface and quartz-composite counters.

  for a water filter or some other accessory.

   Flush-mount (tile-edge) sinks have a

  Delicate dishes or glasses dropped on it are

  rim the same thickness as the tile layer when

  doomed. Cost: $200 to $500+ for cast iron;

  both rest atop a thin-set mortar bed. Such

  slightly less for steel.

  sinks are typically enameled steel or cast iron.

   Solid-surface sinks are usually

  You can fill the tile-sink rim joint with grout or

  manufactured from the same material as the

  silicone sealant, but acrylic latex sanded caulk

  counter and glued (chemically bonded) to the

  has the best qualities of both and comes in

  underside of the counter for a seamless,

  several colors.

  leakproof joint that won’t catch food scraps.

   Separate-rim sinks are usually stainless

  As with counters, solid-surface sinks are stain-

  steel and employ a separate stainless-steel rim

  resistant, nonporous, and easy to clean. And

  to cover the joint between the small sink rim

  you can sand them smooth if they get gouged

  kitchens and baths

  377

  and the edge of the counter. To prevent leaks,

  P R O T I P

  you must seal both the sink side and the

  counter side of the rim.

  Ceiling light set back

  cutting sink openings is best

  zzzzzz kitchen lighting

  10 in. to 12 in. from

  left to a pro if your countertop

  wall cabinets

  is stone, solid-surface, quartz

  installing a kitchen sink

  composite, or some other hard,

  Because self-rimming sinks are the most com-

  Task light

  exotic, or very expensive

  mon, this section focuses on their installation. If

  shielded by

  material. the plywood substrate

  your sink is of a different type, follow the manu-

  face board

  beneath the countertop still

  facturer’s installation instructions.

  needs a sink cutout, however.

  18 in. to

  Lay out the opening. Mark the sink cutout

  30 in. above

  counter

  (opening) on the counter or the plywood sub-

  strate. Most sinks come with a paper template of

  the cutout; if yours doesn’t, make one of card-

  board. To do that, turn the sink upside down

  onto the cardboard, and, with a felt marker, trace

  its outline. Next, use a yardstick to draw a second

  outline 3⁄4 in. inside the first on the cardboard.

  Sink rims are typically 3⁄4 in. wide, so the inner

  line represents
the size of the cutout, and the

  outer line shows how much clearance the sink

  rim needs. Position the cutout template on the

  To illuminate work areas without strong

  shadows, use a combination of task lighting

  and general lighting.

  zzzzzz sink-Mounting details

  SELF-RIMMING SINK

  Sealant

  FLUSH-MOUNT OR TILE-EDGE SINK

  under sink lip

  Enameled

  cast-iron sink

  Sanded caulk

  Enameled cast-iron

  Tile or grout

  or solid-surface sink

  Weight of sink holds it in place.

  Thinset

  UNDERMOUNT SINK

  layer

  Counter

  Mortar bed

  Plywood

  overhangs sink.

  or cement board

  substrate

  Sealant

  SEPARATE-RIM SINK

  Sink clip or wood frame

  Stainless-steel

  supports sink.

  Plastic

  Sealant

  rim

  laminate

  Leakproof

  Sealant

  INTEGRAL SINK

  seam

  Rim clip

  Stainless-steel

  sink

  Counter and sink are same material,

  bonded chemically.

  378 chapter 13

  Clearance needed

  zzzzzz cutting out a sink opening

  Shims support

  for sink rim

  cutout.

  1-in. hole saw creates

  rounded corners.

  Cutout line

  Solid-surface sinks are chemically bonded to a counter of

  the same material, creating a leak-free seam.

  Because sink rims are typically 3/4 in. wide, create cardboard templates

  counter so there’s clearance on all sides, then use to show both the clearance needed for the rim and the cutout line

  a felt marker to trace around the template.

  needed for the sink body.

  Cut the opening. Drill a hole at each corner of

  the cutout for your jigsaw blade; if you use a hole

  saw to drill the corners, its arc should match the

  rounded corners of the sink body. As you cut

  each side of the sink opening, stop just short of

  the corner hole. Then drive a shim into the

  sawkerf—from the underside of the counter—to

  keep the cutout section from falling. (A wood

  shingle is a perfect shim.) With a few shims in

  place, finish cutting to the corner holes and lift

  the cutout section, using the corner holes as fin-

  ger holds. Use a wood rasp to smooth rough cut-

  lines or splinters.

  Install the sink. Wearing heavy work gloves, put

  your fingers in the sink drain and faucet holes,

  lift the sink, and lower it into the cutout. Two

  people should lift and set the sink if it’s cast iron;

  Here, an undermount sink is being

  put wood scraps around the cutout to set the sink clip-mounted to the underside of a

  solid-surface counter . . .

  on so it doesn’t crush your fingertips. Check the

  sink’s fit in the cutout—look under the counter as

  . . . and then lifted as a unit and placed atop a base

  well—before lifting the sink out. Trim the cutout

  cabinet. Supplemental plywood frames inside the cabinet

  as needed. Then mount the drain basket, faucet

  will also support the sink rim.

  assembly, and accessories to the sink; they’re

  This self-rimming stainless-steel sink

  harder to attach once the sink is in place. To

  was installed as a counter-under sink.

  cushion the sink hardware and create a water-

  After routing the perimeter of the

  tight seal, use the flexible seals or plastic plates

  cutout so the sink rim would be flush

  provided by the manufacturer. If the unit has a

  to the plywood, the installer set the

  hollow body, put a bead of plumber’s putty

  rim in epoxy. Just before installing

  the stone, he caulked the top of the

  beneath its lip. Don’t do this if the countertop is

  rim with silicone.

  stone; the oil in the putty may stain the stone.

  Silicone will work, too, but it can make the fau-

  cet difficult to remove if you decide to replace it.

  Just before installing the sink in its opening,

  apply a cushion of sealant for the sink rim to rest

  on. The sealant will be a layer of plumber’s putty

  or, more likely, silicone caulk: Follow the sink

  manufacturer’s recommendations. Make any

  final adjustments to the sink’s position before

  kitchens and baths

  379

  applying a bead of silicone caulk along the edge

  neighbors, install translucent or textured

  of the sink rim, where it rests on the counter.

  glass, or place windows high on the wall.

  With a moistened finger, compress this caulk line Windows in showers are generally not a good

  and remove the excess silicone. (If you will install idea because water sits on windowsills and

  a counter over the sink rim, apply the silicone on rots them. Ideally, skylights should open.

  top of the sink rim just before the countertop is

   Make sure there’s enough artificial light.

  installed, as shown in the bottom photo on p. 379.) For general lighting, plan on 3 watts to 4 watts

  Fasten mounting clips, if any, and attach the

  of incandescent or 1.5 watts to 2 watts of

  supply risers and the sink drain.

  fluorescent lighting per sq. ft. For fixtures in

  alcoves, use a 75-watt or 100-watt recessed,

  Bathroom Planning

  vaporproof ceiling fixture. To illuminate

  bathroom mirrors, however, install light

  If a bathroom is comfortable and its fixtures are

  fixtures on the walls: one over the mirror and

  in decent shape, you might want to add only light one on each side. Ceiling fixtures alone will

  fixtures or a vanity. But if the bathroom is musty, make that face in the mirror look ghoulish.

  add a bath fan (see chapter 14). If fixtures are

  tired or chipped, you can minimize renovation

   Choose comfortable fixtures. “Standard

  costs by hooking new fixtures to existing pipes.

  Cabinet Dimensions” on p. 358 suggests

  But if a bathroom is drafty, cold, or uncomfort-

  counter heights. If they are too high or low for

  able, you may be wise to tear out finish surfaces,

  your family, change them so you don’t need to

  insulate it well, and position the fixtures more

  stoop or stand on tiptoes. As for tubs, if you

  efficiently. But first, here are a few thoughts on

  can’t stretch out in a standard tub or squared

  what makes bathrooms pleasant.

  tub as you’d like, look into oversize models or

  slope-back, cast-iron clawfoot tubs in a salvage

  creating bathrooMs that Work

  yard. Shower stalls should be big enough to

  towel off in—36 in. by 36 in.

  Here are 12 factors that help make a bathroom

   Invest in well-made shower valves,

  comfortable, functional, and easier to clean:

  showerheads, and lavatory faucets with nickel-
>
   Adequate room. Bathroom space isn’t

  or chrome-plated finishes. They cost two to

  efficient if there’s not enough room to use

  three times what bargain home-center

  the fixtures easily and safely. “Bath-Fixture

  accessories do, but they’ll last longer. The

  Clearances” on p. 382 shows minimums, which

  same goes for towel bars, switch plates,

  may be superseded by local building codes.

  mirrors, and other accessories—buy quality.

   Keep it secure and intimate. Although

   Use appropriate materials. Water reigns

  shared bathrooms should be accessible to the

  in a bathroom, so use materials that can

  rooms they serve, bathroom users should feel

  withstand it. Resilient flooring and tile are

  secure once inside. Avoid multiple-door

  great on bathroom floors; wood isn’t. Even

  accesses. Keep the room’s scale intimate as

  when wood is face-sealed with a tough finish,

  well: Warm, cozy spaces are best.

  its end grain can absorb water. And in time,

   Put private fixtures far from the door.

  standing water will cloud most finishes. As

  The most-used and least-private fixture, the

  explained in “Setting Beds” on p. 456, don’t

  lavatory, should be nearest the door so people

  use drywall as a substrate for tile around tubs

  can pop in and wash their hands quickly. But

  and showers.

  toilets and tubs should be farther away.

   Ventilate. Even if there’s a window in the

  Insulate walls and install a tight-fitting door to

  bathroom, be sure there’s an exhaust fan in the

  suppress sound. Cast-iron waste pipes are

  ceiling near the shower. If it’s a light/fan

  quieter than plastic ones.

  combo, the fan switch should have an integral

   Use alcoves and half-walls. Placing

  timer so the fan can keep running after the

  fixtures in alcoves and odd spaces around the

  light is turned off. See “Controlling Moisture

  perimeter of a room maximizes the floor space

  and Mold” on p. 403 for the whole story.

  in the middle. Isolating toilets or tubs with

   Add GFCI protection. All electrical

  their own doors also makes it possible to share

  outlets, including fans, must be protected by

  a bathroom during morning rush hours while

  GFCIs. Shocks could be fatal in such a moist

  preserving privacy.

  environment, so the National Electrical Code

   Take advantage of natural light. Windows

  requires GFCI protection on all bathroom

  and skylights allow rooms to be small without

 

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