Renovation 4th Edition

by Michael Litchfield

ment, framing must be exact:

  Fortifiber’s Super Jumbo tex

  rials are solid. Particleboard countertops often

   Subfloors and countertops must be

  60 Minute will also keep shower

  deteriorate from sink leaks and dishwasher

  substrates dry even if you take

  level and flat to within 1⁄8 in. in 10 ft. that

  steam. If there’s extensive rot or subfloor delami-

  hour-long showers. Polyken®

  is, no high or low points greater than 1⁄8 in.

  nation, replace failed sections, as described in

  Foilastic®, a peel-and-stick

  chapter 8. To test for deflection, thump walls

  of level.

  flashing, does a good job of seal-

  

  with your fist, or jump on the floors. If you see or

  Walls must be plumb and flat to within

  ing shampoo niches, pipe cut-

  1

  feel movement, there may be structural deterio-

  ⁄8 in. in 8 ft.

  outs, and troublesome joints

  ration or, more likely, the substructure may be

  as you might expect, standards are more

  around kitchen counters (see the

  undersize for the span.

  tolerant for mortar-bed installations, which

  top drawing on p. 473).

  are thick enough to accommodate less-than-

  PrePPing the rooM

  perfect framing. Mortar-bed tolerances are

  Tiling will go faster and look better if you first

  roughly double the thin-bed specs given here.

  remove fixtures and other obstructions so that

  a good place to check on these and other

  you can lay a continuous field of tile. This is a

  questions is www.tileusa.com, the website

  good time to relocate or enlarge electrical boxes,

  of the tile council of north america. each

  install thresholds, or cut a little off the door bot-

  year the site updates its handbook of tile-

  toms so they don’t scrape when tiling raises the

  installation standards, spelling out accept-

  floor level. For information on disconnecting and

  able materials and structural requirements for

  installing plumbing fixtures, see chapter 12.

  each type of setting bed.

  460 chapter 16

  adequately. In fact, you can buy extrathick wax

  rings for such situations.

  But if the tiled floor will be more than 1⁄2 in.

  Wax ring

  Tile

  zzzzzz tile height at toilet

  higher than the closet flange (which may result

  if you install a mud bed or backer-board setting

  Thinset

  Closet flange

  bed), replace the flange and set the new one

  Backer

  higher. If waste pipes are plastic, cut off the exist-

  board

  ing bend-and-flange section and cement on new

  components to give you the flange height you

  need. This is easier said than done, however: If

  there’s no room to maneuver new pipes, you may

  need to cut into flooring or framing. Many

  plumbers prefer to build up existing flanges by

  Old

  Plywood

  flooring

  stacking 1⁄

  substrate

  2-in. plastic flange extenders (the same

  diameter as the flange), caulking each with sili-

  1/8-in. gap

  Thinset bonds

  cone, and using long closet bolts to resecure the

  backer board

  Closet bend

  to old flooring.

  toilet base. But check your local plumbing code

  to see if this method is allowed.

  If drainpipes are cast iron, you may want to

  hire a plumber to replace flanges that are too low

  or waste pipes that have deteriorated. There may

  Ideally, the top of the toilet flange should be the same height as the

  not be enough room to cut out pipe sections, or,

  finished floor. If not, consider the options outlined in the text.

  in the case of deteriorated pipes, there may also

  be rotted framing or subflooring to attend to

  To remove a showerhead assembly, gently pry

  before replacing pipes and fixtures.

  the escutcheon from the wall (it may be seated in

  Removing a sink may be advisable before retil-

  plumber’s putty). Then wrap a rag around the

  ing a countertop. The method depends on the

  chrome gooseneck pipe, and use a pipe wrench

  sink type: whether countertop, pedestal, or wall

  to unscrew it. (The rag prevents the wrench from

  mounted. For each, shut off the water, then dis-

  gouging the chrome finish.) Removing valve han-

  connect supply lines and drainpipes.

  dles is slightly more complex because you must

  Countertop sinks vary in their attachment. If

  first unscrew valve handles from valve stems,

  you are retiling a countertop, you must remove a

  and those screws are frequently hidden behind

  self-rimming sink because its lip rests atop the

  decorative caps. Once you’ve removed handles

  P R O T I P

  tile. However, you may want to remove other sink and escutcheons, wrap the exposed valve stems

  types to better match the color of tiles, upgrade a with plastic so their threads don’t get fouled

  if the thicker new walls

  tired old sink, and so on. Most sinks are held in

  with mortar.

  reduce the visible profile of

  place with clips on the underside of the counter

  The last item on the shower wall, the tub

  existing valve stems, don’t panic.

  and sealed with a bed of caulking or plumber’s

  spout, can often be unscrewed by hand. If not,

  Most major plumbing suppliers

  putty between the sink lip and the counter. After

  you can usually gain some leverage by inserting a

  offer threaded valve extensions

  disconnecting the pipes, unscrew the clips and, if rubberized plier’s handle into the spout opening.

  to make the stems longer. that’s

  necessary, break the caulking seal by running a

  Tile to within 1⁄4 in. of the valve stems and

  much cheaper than tearing out

  putty knife between the sink lip and the counter.

  pipe stubs, and caulk the gaps with silicone so

  the walls to replace the valves.

  If the new sink is smaller than the old one, you’ll

  water can’t get behind the wall. Escutcheons will

  need to reframe the opening in the counter.

  cover the cut tiles.

  Remove in-counter faucet assemblies, then

  Build up electrical boxes so they’re flush with

  tile within 1⁄4 in. of the holes, and caulk the spaces new tiled surfaces. After turning off electricity

  with silicone or plumber’s putty. If your installa-

  to the box—and using a voltage tester to make

  tion will involve just thinset and tile, the old valve sure it’s off—remove the outlet faceplate,

  stems should be long enough to reuse. But if

  unscrew the device from the box, and screw in a

  you’re building up the setting bed with backer

  box extender. Run tiles to within 1⁄16 in. of the

  board or mud, buy new faucet assemblies with


  extender; the faceplate will cover tile cuts. Note:

  longer valve stems.

  All bathroom receptacles and all those within

  Shower and tub hardware can be masked off

  4 ft. of a kitchen sink must be GFCIs.

  with plastic bags if you’re not tearing out the

  Move appliances so the floor they’re sitting on

  shower walls or building up setting beds, but do

  can be tiled. Where those appliances are under-

  remove chromework so it doesn’t get discolored

  counter, anticipate the additional height of the

  by mortar or adhesive.

  new flooring and raise or alter countertops

  tiling

  461

  accordingly so appliances can be returned to

  their nooks.

  Cut door bottoms so there’s about 1⁄4-in. clear-

  zzzzzz extending electrical boxes

  Old drywall

  ance between the bottom and the highest point

  1/4-in.

  of the tiled floor or the threshold. Do this after

  backer board

  the tile and threshold are set because it’s difficult

  to know beforehand exactly how thick the floor

  Box extender will be.

  P R O T I P

  Choose a threshold that reconciles floor heights

  don’t use drywall screws to

  and materials on either side. For this, you’ll need

  attach backer board. they’re not

  to think through its installation, such as scribing

  strong, screw heads can shear

  and cutting it to the door jambs and the adhe-

  off, and drywall screws invariably

  sives or fasteners.

  corrode in damp and wet applica-

  1/16-in. gap

  tions. use only corrosion-

  resistant screws or nails. don’t

  Instal ing Setting Beds

  Thinset

  use drywall joint tape either; it’s

  This section addresses mainly the most common

  Electrical

  not up to the task.

  Tile

  setting beds and mentions only briefly those that

  box

  are less common or problematic. Backer-board

  brands vary, so follow manufacturer-specific rec-

  ommendations about waterproofing, connectors,

  installation procedures, and so on.

  A box extender is usual y a plastic sleeve

  that screws to an existing electrical outlet

  coMMon Setting bedS

  box so that the box face is flush to a

  Here you’ll find additional details on backer

  new tiled surface.

  board, mortar beds, SLCs, drywall, and concrete

  slabs. Setting tile directly on plywood is not rec-

  ommended, but it’s widely done, so that’s

  addressed, too.

  installing backer board. Backer boards are

  cementitious backer units. They are strong, dura-

  ble, and unaffected by moisture—so they are

  superb setting beds for wet and dry installations.

  However, because moisture will wick through

  CBUs, install a waterproofing membrane first in

  wet applications to protect wood substructures

  from damage.

  Wear a respirator and eye protection when

  cutting and drilling backer-board panels, which

  can be scored and snapped much like drywall

  A handheld grinder with a diamond blade makes a faster, more reliable cut in backer board than a

  utility knife, but it also produces more dust.

  To install a backer-board setting bed over an existing

  substrate, drive 2-in. galvanized roofing nails into the

  framing. Alternately, use 2-in. corrosion-resistant screws.

  462 chapter 16

  expansion

  Note how well self-leveling

  JOinTS

  compound levels itself when

  accidentally dumped onto the

  ground of a work site. Even its thin,

  All tile substrates and setting beds need 1⁄4-in.-

  tapered edge is strong. When used

  wide expansion joints where they abut walls,

  to level floors, its optimal thickness

  fixtures, and cabinet bases. This keeps grout

  is about 1 in.

  joints from compressing and cracking when

  materials expand. These joints are usually

  caulked with a flexible sealant, such as silicone.

  (many installers score both sides). Although a

  installing the mortar bed. Mortar beds make a

  utility knife can do the job, a dry-cutting dia-

  superb substrate but are complicated to install.

  mond blade in a handheld grinder leaves other

  First, attach a curing membrane (a waterproofing

  methods in the dust—literally. Wear a respirator

  membrane beneath the mortar) over the framing

  when using this grinder, as well as hearing and

  or drywall, then add reinforcing wire mesh.

  eye protection. To drill pipe holes, use a carbide-

  Next, apply two or more parallel mortar columns,

  tipped hole saw.

  and place a wooden float strip atop each column.

  For most backer-board installations, space

  Checking frequently with a spirit level, tap the

  galvanized roofing nails or corrosion-resistant

  float strips into the mortar until the floor strips

  screws every 6 in. to 8 in. Screws are more expen- are level or the wall strips are plumb. Then

  sive and slower to install, but some tilesetters

  fill between the strips: Dump mortar onto floors

  swear by them; Rock-On® cementboard screws

  between the strips or trowel it onto walls. Flatten

  cut their own countersink so the heads will be

  the mortar by placing a screed board across the

  flush. Nail advocates argue that nails are less

  float strips and drawing it side to side in a sawing

  likely to crush panel edges and are easy to drive

  motion. Dump excess mortar into a bucket as the

  flush. To attach 1⁄2-in. backer-board panels directly screed board accumulates it.

  to studs, use 11⁄4-in. screws or nails. If installing

  Once the mortar bed is more or less flat,

  panels over drywall or plywood substrates, use

  remove the strips, and fill the float-strip voids

  2-in. screws or nails.

  with mortar. Then trowel out the irregularities.

  Backer-board panels are available in a variety

  To help the thinset coat adhere, lightly roughen it

  of widths (32 in. to 48 in.), lengths (3 ft. to 10 ft.), by rubbing the surface with a wood float or a

  and thicknesses (1⁄4 in., 5⁄16 in., 7⁄16 in., 1⁄2 in., and

  sponge float. Allow the mortar to set about an

  5⁄8 in.). Thinner panels are typically installed over hour before using a margin trowel to clean up

  plywood or drywall. Use at least 1⁄2-in. backer

  the mortar bed’s edges. Some veteran tilesetters

  board if you’re attaching it to bare studs; other-

  set tile immediately thereafter, but most mortals

  wise, it will flex too much and crack the tile

  should allow the mortar to cure for 24 hours

  joints. For a floor rigid enough to tile, install

  before tiling.

  1⁄2-in. backer board over 3⁄4-in. tongue-and-groove

  Mixing mortar in correct proportions is an

  plywood, with j
oists spaced 16 in. on center. For

  art. Floor mud, or deck mud, is dry and rather

  all installations, leave a 1⁄8-in. gap between the

  crumbly: 1 part portland cement, 5 parts sand,

  backer-board panels. Cover those joints with

  and 1 part water. However, once screeded, com-

  2-in.-wide, self-adhering fiberglass mesh tape

  pacted, and well cured, deck mud can support

  before covering the tape with thinset adhesive—

  great loads. Wall mud is wetter and more like

  the same material used to set the tiles.

  plaster because it must be spread onto vertical

  Feather out the thinset as flat as possible, but

  surfaces; it contains lime to improve its adhesion.

  it doesn’t have to be perfect because the joints

  Wall mud’s proportions are 1 part portland

  will be covered by adhesive and tile. Finally, leave cement, 4 parts sand, 3⁄4 part lime, and 1+ parts

  a 1⁄4-in. expansion gap where the panels abut the

  water; use enough water so the mud trowels on

  base of walls, tubs, and plumbing fixtures; you’ll

  easily. Add water slowly because mud won’t stick

  fill those gaps later with flexible sealant. Keep the if it’s too wet.

  bottom edge of backer board 1⁄4 in. above the tub

  Applying leveling compound. SLCs can level

  so water doesn’t wick into panels; caulk the gap

  isolated low spots or even whole floors.

  later with silicone.

  Application requires few skills beyond opening

  50-lb. sacks of SLC powder, mixing the powder

  tiling

  463

  curing compounds in concrete slabs—that might

  prevent a good bond.

  Before pouring, install a waterproof mem-

  brane and reinforcing mesh, which is usually

  wire, although a self-furring plastic lath called

  Mapelath™ shows promise. One essential prep

  detail: Completely seal and dam off the section of

  floor you’re leveling, or the free-flowing SLC mix

  will disappear down the smallest hole and form a

  heavy mortar pad where you least want one. Pay

  close attention to board joints, baseboards, and

  the like; caulk or seal joints with duct tape, pack

  them with fiberglass insulation—whatever it

  takes to contain the liquid until it hardens. SLCs

  are expensive but, in most cases, less expensive

  than floating a mortar bed. As important, they’re

  great setting beds.

  Preparing masonry surfaces. Concrete walls,

  slabs, and block are good setting beds as long as

  they’ve cured for at least a month and as long as

  they’re clean (no chemical residues), dry, free