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Renovation 4th Edition

Page 109

by Michael Litchfield


  from active cracks, and level or plumb within

  1⁄8 in. in 10 ft. (If it’s an out-of-level floor, see

  “Applying Leveling Compound” on p. 463.)

  If you’re tiling basement surfaces, the big

  issue is cracks. If masonry cracks expand and

  Create a level mortar bed by drawing a metal screed board across two float

  contract seasonally, it’s unwise to tile over them

  strips pressed into mortar columns. After the mortar has been screeded, the

  because the tiles will crack. Likewise, if one side

  wood float strips are removed and their voids filled with mortar.

  of a crack is higher than another, it’s probably

  caused by soil movement. (If the crack is inactive

  and both sides are level, you can vacuum out the

  with water, and pouring the mix onto a floor. You

  S a f e T y a l e R T

  crack, dampen it, and fill it with a latex thinset

  don’t even need to spread it around much. It

  adhesive before applying the thinset setting bed.)

  flows like water, levels itself, and starts to harden

  older resilient flooring some-

  in about 15 minutes. Well, that’s a bit oversimpli-

  Dry installations. Unpainted drywall is an

  times contains asbestos, which is

  fied but not by much.

  acceptable setting bed for dry installations. (In

  seldom a problem unless fibers

  First, be sure the substructure is sturdy

  damp or wet installations, never adhere tile

  become airborne. before sanding

  or abrading it, take a sample to a

  enough to bear the weight. Specs for one popular directly to drywall.)

  flooring specialist, who can tell

  SLC, LevelQuik, recommend at least a 3⁄4-in.

  In dry installations, use at least 5⁄8-in. drywall

  if it’s asbestos. next, consult a

  exterior-plywood subfloor over joists spaced up

  if attaching it directly to studs 16 in. on center.

  local building code officer, who

  to 24 in. on center; use two 1⁄2-in.-thick pours to

  Or sandwich two layers of drywall, with a layer

  can tell you if it’s safe to install

  achieve a 1-in. optimal thickness. Wait 24 hours

  of adhesive between, to create a more rigid lami-

  new flooring or if you must hire

  between pours. Whatever the substrate, it should nation. But if you install a double layer of dry-

  an asbestos-abatement specialist

  be clean, dry, and free of chemicals—such as

  wall, offset the panel edges by at least 16 in.

  to remove the old flooring.

  Stronger inSTAllATiOn, leSS WASTe

  Construction adhesive is often used to join backer board to other substrate layers, but

  thinset adhesive (applied with a 1⁄4-in. square-notched trowel) creates a far more

  rigid lamination. When installing backer board, cut pieces lengthwise if possible. For

  example, if you have 2-ft.-wide countertops, cut a single piece of backer board 2 ft. by

  8 ft. rather than into two 2-ft. by 4-ft. pieces. The panel will be slightly stronger,

  there will be no waste, and you’ll have one fewer seam to tape and top.

  464 chapter 16

  To avoid cutting handmade tiles on

  the tub sidewall, the installer laid out

  tiles on the floor, using plastic

  spacers to simulate grout joints. She

  then adjusted the thickness of mortar

  beds on the tub walls so that the tile

  assembly fit exactly. (Vacuum floors

  well before laying tile on them

  because dust can compromise a

  setting bond.)

  In either case, leave a 1⁄8-in. gap between panel

  odd or ProbleMatic Setting bedS

  edges, cover the joints with self-sticking fiber-

  The beds described next may require special

  glass mesh tape, and then apply a layer of latex

  techniques and materials.

  thinset adhesive over the tape. Drywall tools are

  fine for this application—but not drywall joint

  Plastic laminate countertops are acceptable

  tape or compound. When installing drywall as a

  setting beds if they’re solidly attached. Scuff the

  setting bed, you don’t need to fill screw holes or

  surface with 80-grit sandpaper, wipe with a rag

  feather out joints perfectly smooth because you’ll dampened with solvent to remove grit and

  be covering them with thinset and tile.

  grease, and fill any voids. Then use an epoxy-

  based thinset to bond the tiles. Alternatively, you

  Plywood beds. Plywood is not recommended as

  can cover the old laminate with 1⁄4-in. backer

  a setting bed, but if you must use it, use only

  board, adhering it with an application of epoxy

  exterior grade and leave 1⁄8-in. gaps between the

  thinset and 1-in. corrosion-resistant screws

  panel edges. Plywood substrates for floors and

  spaced every 6 in. around the perimeter of the

  countertops must be at least 11⁄8 in. thick—best

  countertop and every 8 in. in the field. Sink screw

  achieved by laminating a 1⁄2-in.-thick plywood

  heads flush, vacuum the backer board, and use

  underlayment panel to a 5⁄8-in. plywood subfloor.

  latex or epoxy thinset adhesive to bond tiles.

  To prevent squeaking and to stiffen the assembly, Note: The recommended 1-in. screw assumes the

  apply construction adhesive between the panels.

  combined thickness of the countertop materials

  Offset the panels so their edges don’t align. In

  is at least 11⁄8 in.

  addition to the adhesive, use 1-in. corrosion-

  resistant nails or screws spaced every 6 in. To

  Tiling over existing tile is a reasonable alterna-

  secure this laminated plywood to the joists, drive tive to ripping it out, as long as the old tile isn’t

  16d galvanized nails into the joist centers. To

  cracked and is well adhered and the substrate is

  avoid high spots that might crack the tiles, sink

  solid. Scuff the tile with a carbide-grit sandpaper.

  all screw or nail heads below the surface of the

  Vacuum the surface well, and wipe with a damp

  top layer. Sand and vacuum the plywood before

  rag. Because tile surfaces are not perfectly regu-

  notch-troweling on an epoxy thinset adhesive.

  lar and grout joints are recessed, first use a flat

  tiling

  465

  trowel to spread a layer of epoxy thinset to build

  sandpaper, and wipe with a damp rag. Use a

  up grout joints and level the surface. Wait a day.

  latex thinset adhesive.

  Then use a notched trowel to apply a setting bed

  Other situations

  of epoxy thinset.

   Papered walls? Strip ’em! Vinyl wall

  Two caveats: Because of the risk of leaks, don’t coverings are supposedly tenacious enough to

  tile over tiled shower-stall floors. Rather, tear out

  support tile, but it’s risky.

  the old floor, replace the shower-pan membrane,

   Veneer paneling? Not recommended.

  and tile atop a newly floated mortar bed. Second,

  P R O T I P

  Typically 1⁄4 in. to 3⁄8 in. thick, it will flex,

&nbs
p; don’t install tiles 2-in.-sq. or smaller over existing cracking grout joints and eventually

  tile because they will telegraph the old surface’s

  once you’ve established a

  dislodging tiles.

  irregularities. Instead, use large tiles.

  room’s two main (perpendicular)

   Wainscoting or lumber flooring? Not

  control lines, snap as many sec-

  Resilient flooring is acceptable if there’s a sin-

  recommended. Solid wood expands and

  ondary layout lines as you like.

  gle, uncushioned layer that’s well adhered to a

  contracts, and all those board seams would be

  Many tile setters also snap lines

  stable subfloor. Cushioned or multilayered floor-

  a nightmare to fill.

  around the perimeter of the room

  ing will flex too much to be a stable base for tile,

  to indicate where cut tiles begin;

  so, to be sure, use a utility knife with a hooked

  they set all the full tiles within

  blade to cut out a cross section of flooring in an

  Tile Estimation and Layout

  the lines first, then set cut tiles

  inconspicuous spot.

  At this point, we’ll assume that the substructure

  at the base of walls, cabinets,

  is sturdy and stable and the setting bed is in

  and fixtures.

  Painted walls are OK as long as the paint is well place. Careful layout is the key to a good-looking

  attached and the wall doesn’t flex. Drill a small

  job, so don’t begrudge the time it takes. The right

  exploratory hole to determine the composition

  layout will align tile joints correctly, create a

  and thickness of the wall. If it’s drywall less than

  5

  pleasant symmetry, allow you to cut tiles to size

  ⁄8 in. thick, install a layer of 1⁄4-in. or 3⁄8-in. dry-

  beforehand, and—most important—enable you

  wall over it. If the wall is traditional plaster

  to set tile accurately and quickly while the clock

  (hard to drill through), it’s probably fine. Prep

  is ticking for that fast-drying adhesive.

  painted walls by sanding them with 100-grit

  eStiMating tile

  If you’re installing a popular tile that a local sup-

  Storytel ing plier has in stock, wait until you’ve installed the

  setting bed before estimating tiles. If you order

  A story pole (also called a jury stick) is like an oversize yardstick but is divided into

  too many, most local suppliers will take back

  units that represent the average width of one tile plus one grout joint. Story poles

  extras, as long as they aren’t damaged or

  give you a quick read on the number of full-size tiles you’ll need to get from point A

  returned too long after purchase. Ordering tiles is

  to point B. For these homemade measuring devices, any straight board will do.

  not complicated unless surfaces to be tiled have a

  lot of jogs, recesses, odd angles, and obstacles.

  Using a tape measure and a pad of graph paper,

  calculate the square footage of the surface to be

  tiled and add 8% to 10% for waste, damage, and

  future repairs.

  Handmade or exotic tiles are another story.

  Because they’re expensive and must be ordered

  well in advance, suppliers rarely accept returns.

  To save money, try to draw layouts that are accu-

  rate to an inch so you can count individual tiles.

  But you should still order extra tiles—say, 5%

  above your tile count—which is preferable to

  waiting two months for the next tile shipment

  from Italy. Besides, tile colors can vary greatly

  between batches. Your detailed drawings will

  also help you accurately frame out the area to

  be tiled.

  Finally, when ordering tile, calculate the num-

  ber of trim pieces separately from your calcula-

  tions for field tiles. For each distinct piece of tile

  trim (such as surface cove, V-cap trim), add 15%

  to the lineal feet of trim indicated by the layout.

  466 chapter 16

  Order at least two specialty trim pieces for any

  Use full tiles at focal centers. A focal center

  one-of-a-kind piece (such as radius-bullnose down is any area that the eye is drawn to: the front

  angle). This is also the time to order compatible

  edge of a counter; a room’s entryway; or a center

  adhesives and color-matched grout and caulk.

  of activity such as a sink, large window, or

  hearth. Common sense says full tiles look better

  tile layout

  than cut tiles, so put full tiles in conspicuous

  areas. Conversely, put cut tiles where they’ll be

  Most tiles are square or rectangular. So the most

  least noticed.

  common floor-layout dilemma is in imposing a

  grid that’s basically square onto a room that

  Cut as few tiles as possible. Cut tiles are extra

  isn’t. Laying out walls and countertops is much

  work, and they don’t look as good as whole tiles.

  the same, except that wall layouts are more

  To avoid cutting tiles, you might be able to shift

  affected by plumb. Wherever they occur, though,

  the layout a little to the right or left or slightly

  layout lines have the same purpose: They keep

  vary the width of tile grout joints.

  tile joints straight. When setting tile, it’s easy to

  Make layouts as symmetrical as possible. This

  obsess about individual tiles and spacers, getting

  rule is both an extension and, occasionally, a con-

  lost in close-up details. Layout lines help you

  tradiction of the two above. Imagine a kitchen-

  keep the big picture in view and keep tile joints

  sink counter: The sink is certainly a focal center

  from straying.

  but may be smack-dab in the middle of a tile

  field. There’s often no way to avoid cutting tiles

  Four tiMe-teSted tiPS oF tiling

  around the perimeter of a sink. In that case, try

  Although the following rules make sense most of

  to shift the layout (or the sink) so that you can

  the time, bend them when you must.

  cut tiles an even amount on both sides of the sink

  (see the bottom drawing on p. 473). The result

  Tile layouts impose a grid that’s basically square in a room that often isn’t. Start by recording

  zzzzzz tiling a Floor

  the room’s dimensions, use a framing square to see which corners are square, and note any

  obstacles to be tiled around.

  FIRST CONTROL LINE

  SECOND CONTROL LINE

  PARTIAL TILES

  Field of

  First

  Second

  Start tiling where

  Cut and install

  vision

  control line

  control line

  control lines meet.

  partial tiles last.

  Full tiles at threshold

  If the doorway is the focal center

  The second control line is

  Place angle-cut and partial tiles

  of the room, use a story pole to

  perpendicular to the first,

  away from the room’s focal center. />
  find the tile-joint mark closest to

  intersecting it roughly midway

  Because cutting tiles takes longer

  the middle of the doorway. Ideal y,

  along its length. Although you can

  than installing full tiles, most

  the first control line will run

  start setting tiles anywhere, it’s

  installers cut tiles after the field of

  through that mark, and there will

  best to start where control lines

  full tiles is in place.

  be full tiles along the threshold.

  meet in the highly visible middle

  of the room.

  tiling

  467

  will look much better than almost-full tiles on

  lining uP the tile grid

  one side and narrow tiles on the other.

  Floor layout begins by identifying the focal point

  This also is a good rule for small counters,

  of the room and snapping two chalklines ( control

  which you can see from side to side without turn- lines) onto the setting bed perpendicular to each

  ing your head. If you must cut tiles, split the dif-

  other. In the photos on these two pages, the door-

  ference at each end.

  way is the focal point of the room. Thus, the first

  Don’t use tile pieces half size or smaller.

  control line will run through the middle of that

  They’ll look terrible. It’s better to adjust the width doorway and continue across the room to the

  of tile joints. Or shift the layout so that you have

  opposite wall at roughly a right angle.

  large cut tiles on both ends rather than a row of

  Full tiles look best in a doorway, so the

  narrow ones on one end alone.

  installers butted uncut tiles against the thres-

  hold and continued the tile course until it met

  Tiling a Floor

  an adjacent wall. Then they selected a tile that

  was roughly in the middle of the doorway, and

  Using a framing square and a tape measure,

  along one side of the tile, they stretched a taut

  check to be sure the room’s corners are square

  chalkline that ran across the room to the oppo-

  and parallel. Make a quick sketch of the room,

  site wall. As two people held the string taut, a

  showing which way corners diverge. Or sketch

  third person measured from the string to the

  this directly onto the setting bed.

  adjacent wall to make sure that the string was

  parallel to the wall.

  Floor lAyoUT

  applying thinset adhesive

  once you’ve snapped layout lines and vacuumed the setting bed one last time,

 

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