The Art of Blending: Stories and Recipes from La Boîte's Spice Journey
Page 5
Recipe from Steven Cook and Michael Solomonov, Federal Donuts, Philadelphia
Even chefs have a soft spot for fried comfort food. Steven and Michael decided to turn that affection into a business. At Federal Donuts, they use several of my spice blends in both fried chicken and glazed doughnuts. This recipe is a twist on the traditional sufganyot doughnuts that are made for Hanukkah. The Sri Lanka N.14 spice blend adds a mild sweetness to the fluffy dough and a great anise flavor that marries wonderfully with the coffee-raisin glaze.
INGREDIENTS
MAKES ABOUT 20 DOUGHNUTS
Doughnuts
13⁄4 cups lukewarm water
3 tablespoons plus 3⁄4 teaspoon active dry yeast (5 packets)
5 tablespoons butter
3 cups plus 3 tablespoons granulated sugar
1⁄2 cup milk powder
2 teaspoons Sri Lanka N.14 spice blend
21⁄4 teaspoons kosher salt
2 large eggs
51⁄3 cups plus 1 tablespoon all-purpose flour, plus more for cutting the doughnuts
1 quart canola oil
Glaze
1⁄2 cup raisins
1⁄3 cup hot coffee
One 16-ounce box confectioners’ sugar
1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon corn syrup
1 teaspoon Sri Lanka N. 14 spice blend
1⁄3 teaspoon salt
1⁄2 teaspoon rum extract (optional)
INSTRUCTIONS
Place half of the water in a bowl and add the yeast. Let stand for 20 minutes (the mixture should turn foamy).
In the bowl of a standing mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, cream the butter with the sugar, milk powder, Sri Lanka spice blend and salt at medium speed until fluffy and pale. Beat the eggs in a bowl and then slowly beat into the butter mixture. Beat in the yeast mixture, the rest of the water and the flour; mix at medium speed until well-mixed and slightly stringy, about 8 to 10 minutes.
Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and let it sit in a warm place until the dough doubles in size, about 30 to 40 minutes.
Meanwhile, make the glaze: Soak the raisins in the hot coffee for 15 minutes. Transfer to a food processor and purée until smooth. Combine the raisin purée and the remaining ingredients in a large stainless steel bowl. Place the bowl over a pot of simmering water and whisk until warmed through; thin the glaze with a little water if it’s too thick (you want it to be a syrupy texture). Set aside.
Transfer the dough to a lightly floured surface and punch it down. Roll the dough out until it is 1 inch thick.
Dip a round or square cookie cutter into a bowl of flour and punch out the doughnuts. Combine any leftover dough, roll it out again and repeat, transferring the doughnuts to a baking sheet as you go. Let the doughnuts rest, uncovered, for 30 minutes.
In a large saucepan or Dutch oven, heat the oil to 350°. Working in batches, place the doughnuts in the oil and fry for 2 minutes on each side. Transfer to paper towels to drain.
When all of the doughnuts have been fried, dip one side of each into the glaze and let cool before serving.
KIBBEH The name of this blend means different things to different people. Kibbeh typically refers to the Middle Eastern bulgur croquette that’s stuffed with minced beef or lamb and deep-fried. However, the inspiration for my Kibbeh N.15 blend is more connected to Armenian food. Think of thinly sliced raw beef you dip into heady-scented spices to eat with yogurt. Whatever my blend’s intended purpose, its mixture of parsley, garlic and fragrant cumin has become instantly relatable in a variety of cuisines. Some people add it to hamburgers, while others use it to season crisp french fries.
Recipe Ideas
-1- Combine with ground beef, form into patties and grill.
-2- Add to beer batter and sprinkle over french fries for fish and chips.
-3- Whisk into mayonnaise with finely chopped garlic for a quick aioli.
Also great with
corn on the cob
* * *
tomato salsa
* * *
lentil soup
* * *
grilled lamb chops
* * *
fish tacos
Recipe from Mark Ladner, Del Posto, New York City
A few years back, I met Mark Ladner, the executive chef of Mario Batali’s Del Posto restaurant. We immediately found common ground in our constant pursuit of the best ingredients. When I smell my Kibbeh N.15 spice blend, the first thing that comes to mind is lamb. I like how Mark bridges Middle Eastern flavors with Italian cuisine in this dish, and I love how the sweetness of the carrot balances the garlic and cumin in the spice blend, while the labneh cools everything down.
INGREDIENTS
MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS
1⁄4 cup Kibbeh N.15 spice blend, plus more for garnish
1 pound ground lamb
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon cold water
2 cups carrot juice, preferably fresh
2 cups diced (1⁄4-inch) carrots
2 cups chopped carrots
1 teaspoon finely grated orange zest
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
1 cup labneh or Greek yogurt
1⁄2 cup chicken stock
1 pound orecchiette pasta
2 tablespoons butter
1⁄2 cup freshly grated Pecorino-Romano cheese
INSTRUCTIONS
Make the sausage: In a bowl, combine the Kibbeh spice blend, lamb, 11⁄2 teaspoons salt and the water. Mix with your hands until thoroughly blended. Refrigerate until ready to use.
Make the carrots: Place the carrot juice in a saucepan and bring to a simmer. Add the diced carrots and cook for 5 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer them to a bowl. Add the chopped carrots to the juice and cook until tender, about 10 minutes. Purée the carrots and juice in a blender or food processor and add the orange zest. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Fold the diced carrots into the carrot purée and keep warm.
Make the yogurt: In a medium bowl, whisk the olive oil into the labneh until creamy.
Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Mound the lamb in the center of a cold pan. Place the pan over medium-high heat and cook until the bottom of the lamb is crispy and a good crust has developed, about 5 minutes. Using a wooden spoon, break the meat into small pieces and continue cooking until the lamb is cooked through, about 3 minutes. Deglaze the pan with the chicken stock, stir in the butter and simmer for 1 minute.
Meanwhile, cook the pasta until al dente. Drain, reserving some of the cooking water, and return the pasta to the pot over medium heat. Stir in the lamb, Pecorino-Romano and enough pasta water to make a creamy sauce. Fold in half of the carrot mixture.
Divide the pasta among plates and spoon some of the remaining carrot mixture and labneh over the top. Sprinkle with Kibbeh and serve.
AYALA This blend is named after my mother. It’s not because she’s a world- renowned chef or because she conjures up recipes with secret ingredients, but because although she has a pantry brimming with spices, she uses only salt and pepper and the rosemary that grows in her garden. What she prepares may be simple, but it’s always tasty and satisfying. She’s my reminder that you don’t always need complex ingredients to make a successful dish. Ayala N.16 brings together a harmonious ratio of these three elements to form a crunchy crust on roasted or grilled meats, season vegetables or add to spreads. When you take the time to savor each bite, the flavors develop as you eat.
Recipe Ideas
-1- Mix with Dijon mustard and honey for a sandwich spread.
-2- Toss with sliced radishes, olive oil and lemon juice for a quick salad.
-3- Brush halved radicchio heads with oil, sprinkle with Ayala and quickly char on a grill or grill pan.
Also great with
chicken paillard
* * *
roast beef
* * *
broiled fish
* * *
scrambled eggs
* * *
roasted carrots
Recipe from Lucien Vendome and the Nestlé Culinary Team
A few years ago, Nestlé asked me to join a team of chefs to help create new dishes for Lean Cuisine. After developing a complex, 15-ingredient spice blend, I sometimes like to take a break by making something simple such as Ayala spice blend, which contains the classic combination of salt, pepper and rosemary—a trio that always tastes great with chicken.
INGREDIENTS
MAKES 6 TO 8 APPETIZER SERVINGS
Wings
3 tablespoons Ayala N.16 spice blend
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
2 tablespoons honey
21/2 pounds chicken wings
Ayala Aioli
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon Ayala N.16 spice blend
1/4 teaspoon red pepper flakes
2 tablespoons finely chopped garlic
1 roasted red pepper, seeded and chopped
1 tablespoon plus 11/2 teaspoons honey
1/2 cup mayonnaise
INSTRUCTIONS
Marinate the wings: In a mixing bowl, whisk the Ayala spice blend with the olive oil, lemon juice and honey. Add the chicken wings and toss to coat with the marinade. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 1 hour.
Make the aioli: In a skillet, heat the olive oil over low heat. Add the Ayala, red pepper flakes and garlic and cook, stirring, for 1 minute. Add the roasted pepper and honey and cook for 2 minutes longer. Remove from the heat and let cool.
Place the mayonnaise in the bowl of a food processor or blender and add the cooled vegetable mixture. Process until smooth and season to taste with salt and pepper.
Preheat the oven to 425°. Line a rimmed baking sheet with aluminum foil. Remove the chicken wings from the marinade and spread them on the prepared baking sheet; roast for 15 minutes, then turn the wings over and roast for 15 minutes longer or until they are golden brown and cooked through. Serve with the aioli for dipping.
NOGA Noga is my niece; her name is the Hebrew word for “brightness.” Of course, this blend doesn’t really relate to either, though I was creating it around the time she was born. Before she could walk, I was experimenting with palm sugar, which comes in hard disks that have to be smashed or melted before they can be used. I like that palm sugar isn’t very sweet and that it has these dark caramel notes that, when combined with floral lemongrass, transport you to Southeast Asia, where these ingredients are often used to enrich and thicken fragrant sauces. Noga N.17 pairs well with savory dishes, from curries to roasted poultry and duck and even seafood broths. Stir some into a fruit smoothie for a sweet surprise. Maybe someday Noga will teach me a few new ways to use it.
Recipe Ideas
-1- Combine 1 tbsp Noga with 2 cups of water and 2 cups of sugar. Simmer until the sugar is dissolved; cool and use in cocktails or other drinks.
-2- Sprinkle over halibut fillets (about 1 tsp per portion) before baking or broiling.
-3- Season thin slices of pork loin with Noga before grilling; serve with satay sauce.
Also great with
peach cobbler
* * *
shrimp curry
* * *
roast turkey
* * *
mango–passion fruit smoothie
* * *
fried rice
Recipe from Stephane Cocu, Waterfall Garden, Singapore
Stephane and I go a long way back, all the way to the hectic kitchen at Daniel. Over the years, he discovered a whole new world of spices. This dish is a great example of how far he’s come: a French chef using a Thai-influenced spice blend in an Italian dish at his Singapore restaurant. I love how the floral lemongrass notes in the Noga N.17 spice blend work surprisingly well with briny clams, and the palm sugar helps thicken the broth for an entirely new spin on pasta with clam sauce.
INGREDIENTS
MAKES 6 SERVINGS
24 littleneck clams, scrubbed
1 pound dried tagliatelle or fettuccine
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1/4 cup finely chopped cilantro
1 tablespoon Noga N.17 spice blend
1/4 cup finely chopped shallots
2 garlic gloves, halved crosswise
1/2 cup fresh orange juice
1/2 cup fresh lemon juice
1 cup heavy cream
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
4 ounces dried Spanish chorizo, finely diced (about 1 cup)
1 tablespoon fresh lime juice
INSTRUCTIONS
In a bowl, cover the clams with cold water and let them soak for 10 minutes, changing the water two or three times.
Bring a pot of salted water to a boil and cook the pasta until al dente. Drain the pasta and rinse under cold water, then transfer to a bowl and toss with 1 tablespoon of the olive oil, 2 tablespoons of the cilantro and 2 teaspoons of the Noga spice blend.
In a large saucepan or Dutch oven, heat the remaining tablespoon of olive oil. Add the shallots and garlic and cook over low heat, stirring, until softened, about 2 to 3 minutes. Add the clams and the citrus juices. Bring to a simmer, cover and cook until the clams have all opened, about 5 minutes. Remove the clams from the pot and separate the clams from their shells; discard the shells.
Bring the broth to a simmer over medium heat and reduce by half, about 5 minutes, then add the heavy cream and reduce by half again, about 5 minutes longer. Stir in the butter and the remaining 1 teaspoon of Noga and return the clams to the pot. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
Add the pasta to the sauce and allow it to warm through. Stir in the chorizo and lime juice, sprinkle with the remaining cilantro and serve.
SMOKED CINNAMON In many parts of the world, cinnamon has traditionally been used to impart sweetness to dishes without the addition of sugar. Something about its familiar smell triggers that sweet sensation. Motivated by the spice’s frequent appearance in barbecue rubs, I’ve taken cassia bark (the most common type of cinnamon) and smoked it following the same technique used for ribs or brisket. Thanks to its natural oils and thick, rough bark, cassia holds smoke amazingly well and it’s perfect for introducing that smoldering aroma into any meal. Smoking the cinnamon allowed me to develop a beautifully sweet, smoky ground spice that brings sweetness to savory dishes and savoriness to desserts in a variety of preparations such as baked apples, braised poultry or barbecue sauce.
Recipe Ideas
-1- Peel and core whole Fuji apples, season all over with Smoked Cinnamon and sugar and bake until soft.
-2- Whisk into your favorite barbecue sauce and use to glaze grilled baby back ribs or slow-cooked pork shoulder.
-3- Steep 2 tsp Smoked Cinnamon with 2 cups of milk and use to make hot chocolate.
Also great with
lamb stew
* * *
bean chili
* * *
roasted root vegetables
* * *
braised duck legs
* * *
rum-based cocktails
Recipe from Ghaya Oliveria, Boulud Sud, New York City
Ghaya Oliveira makes smart use of her North African culinary heritage by incorporating her homeland’s ingredients into classic desserts to give them a personal signature. Here, instead of using regular cinnamon, she combines my Smoked Cinnamon N.18 spice blend with chocolate to imbue it with a smoky flavor; she also adds Smoked Cinnamon to speculoos biscuits, which are an excellent sweet on their own.
INGREDIENTS
Pots de Crème
MAKES 8 SERVINGS
41/4 ounces bittersweet chocolate, preferably Valrhona Caraïbe 66%
11
/2 teaspoons Smoked Cinnamon N.18 spice blend
5 large egg yolks
2 tablespoons sugar
11/4 cups whole milk
11/4 cups heavy cream
Smoked Cinnamon Speculoos
MAKES ABOUT 60 BISCUITS
11/4 cups light brown sugar
1 stick salted butter, diced
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
2 cups all-purpose flour
2 teaspoons Smoked Cinnamon N.18 spice blend
1/2 teaspoon baking powder
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 large egg
Pots De Crème