The Art of Blending: Stories and Recipes from La Boîte's Spice Journey
Page 6
Preheat the oven to 300°. Place the chocolate and Smoked Cinnamon in a large bowl.
In a medium bowl, whisk the egg yolks with the sugar until pale yellow, about 3 minutes. In a small, heavy saucepan, heat the milk and cream over medium heat until the mixture comes to a simmer. Gradually whisk the milk and cream mixture into the egg and sugar mixture. Strain the liquid through a fine-mesh sieve over the chocolate. Using an immersion blender, blend until smooth, about 20 seconds. Do not overmix.
Prepare a hot-water bath in a roasting pan. Pour the chocolate mixture into eight 4-ounce oven-proof ramekins or custard cups. Place the ramekins in the hot-water bath and cover with foil. Bake for 30 minutes or until the pots de crème are set but still jiggle slightly in the center.
Remove the ramekins from the water and let cool for 15 minutes, then cover in plastic wrap and refrigerate until cold, about 6 hours. Serve with the Smoked Cinnamon Speculoos (recipe follows).
Cinnamon Speculoos
In a standing mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, cream the sugar, butter and vanilla until well combined, about 4 minutes. In a bowl, whisk together the flour, Smoked Cinnamon, salt and baking powder.
Add the egg to the butter and sugar mixture and beat at low speed, then add the dry ingredients, mixing at low speed until everything is combined.
Form the mixture into a ball of dough and divide the dough in half. Place each half between two sheets of parchment paper and, using a rolling pin, flatten the dough into a rectangle about 1⁄8-inch thick. Refrigerate for one hour.
Preheat the oven to 350°. Cut the dough with a cookie cutter or a knife into 1-by-2-inch rectangles. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper or a Silpat mat. Arrange the biscuits on the prepared baking sheet, leaving about 1⁄4 inch between them. Bake for about 8 minutes or until the cookies are light golden brown. Let the cookies cool on the baking sheet, then remove and store in an airtight container. Repeat with the remaining dough to make about 60 biscuits.
SALVADOR When I hear the name Salvador Dali, images of melting clocks and a notorious upturned mustache come to mind. But Dali began painting at an early age, long before Surrealism became his playground. His early works, driven predominantly by more realistic portraiture, depict a side of him seldom recognized or discussed—and hint at his eventual style. I liken the juxtaposition of Dali’s early and later works to the duality of flavors associated with Spanish cuisine. Pimentón mingles with seafood essence and saffron to add warmth and heartiness to Spanish paella, French bouillabaisse or Italian cioppino. Using only a pinch of Salvador N.19, you can capture the essence of Spanish cuisine.
Recipe Ideas
-1- Add to chicken stock (1 tbsp Salvador per quart) and use to cook paella.
-2- Warm with olive oil (1 part Salvador to 3 parts oil) and use as a sauce for pasta with shrimp.
-3- Add to sliced bell peppers, onions and sausage and sauté in olive oil.
Also great with
bouillabaisse
* * *
risotto
* * *
fish tacos
* * *
chicken stir fry
* * *
roasted cauliflower
Recipe from Eric Ripert, Le Bernardin, New York City
It took me about three years to get a meeting with Eric Ripert to talk to him about spices. What was supposed to be a quick introduction turned into an hour-long conversation, and our ongoing relationship has been one of my most rewarding. Eric and his team constantly challenge me to find the best ingredients possible. Here, Eric shows off his seafood skills by creating a very simple dish that tastes complex and layered thanks to the smoked paprika and seafood essence in the Salvador N.19 spice blend.
INGREDIENTS
MAKES 4 SERVINGS
1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon plus 3 teaspoons Salvador N.19 spice blend
1⁄3 cup fresh lemon juice
Sea salt and freshly ground white pepper
Two 8-ounce sushi-grade tuna steaks, about 1 inch thick
4 ounces baby arugula
1 red bell pepper, seeded and cut lengthwise into thin strips
INSTRUCTIONS
In a small saucepan set over low heat, warm 1⁄2 cup of the olive oil with 1 tablespoon of the Salvador spice blend. Pour the oil into a bowl and let cool to room temperature, then whisk in the lemon juice and season to taste with salt and pepper.
Season the tuna steaks with salt and pepper and the remaining Salvador. In a skillet (preferably cast iron), heat the remaining 2 tablespoons of olive oil over high heat. Add the tuna and quickly sear until golden brown on both sides, about 30 seconds to 1 minute per side (don’t overcook; the tuna should be very rare). Transfer to a plate.
To serve, cut the tuna into 1⁄2-inch slices and divide among four plates, fanning the slices. Gently toss the arugula and the red pepper with half of the vinaigrette and place the salad next to the tuna. Drizzle some of the remaining vinaigrette over the salad and the tuna and serve immediately.
DALI Salvador Dali’s later (and better-known) Surrealist works inspired this blend. After working with saffron and lemon, I spent days with stained yellow fingers and powdered blonde hair. (So often my work stays with me even after it’s done.) With this blend, I wanted to make saffron more accessible, as it’s easy for people to avoid because even the smallest quantities are expensive. A blend of Spanish saffron, lemon and Chinese-seafood essence, Dali N.20 invites people to discover saffron’s versatility in a way that’s not overpowering. In dishes such as lemon risotto or boiled shellfish, Dali N.20 conjures up the lighter, fresher, citrus-forward flavors of Spain and its maritime roots and provides an encounter with Spanish cuisine apart from the smokiness of paella.
Recipe Ideas
-1- Add to chicken or vegetable broth (1 tbsp per quart) and use to cook seafood or vegetable risotto.
-2- Blend with roasted garlic and mayonnaise (2 tsp Dali per cup of mayonnaise) to make aioli.
-3- Combine in a blender with ripe cantaloupe, lime juice and yogurt for a chilled soup.
Also great with
crab boil
* * *
poached fish
* * *
sautéed gnocchi
* * *
chicken fajitas
* * *
potato latkes
Recipe from Frank Falcinelli and Frank Castronovo, Frankies Spuntino, New York City
This easy appetizer is a fun twist on egg salad served in the style of montado (Spain’s version of crostini). It reflects the Franks’ philosophy of cooking: Keep it simple, keep it tasty and have fun. I like the way in which Dali N.20 spice blend uses saffron in a more casual preparation than usual. Saffron is often thought of as something fancy, but in this recipe, it’s easy to add just a sprinkle.
INGREDIENTS
MAKES 4 TO 6 APPETIZER SERVINGS
6 large eggs
3 tablespoons mayonnaise
2 medium shallots, finely chopped (about 3 tablespoons)
2 tablespoons sherry vinegar
1 tablespoon chopped parsley
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling
1 tablespoon plus 2 teaspoons Dali N.20 spice blend, plus more for garnish
Salt and freshly ground pepper
15 toasted baguette rounds
8 whole boquerones (Spanish anchovies packed in olive oil and vinegar), halved crosswise
INSTRUCTIONS
Prepare an ice bath. Place the eggs in a saucepan and cover with water. Bring to a gentle simmer and cook for 9 minutes. Transfer the eggs to the ice bath and let cool for 5 minutes.
Peel the eggs and break them up into a bowl with a whisk or your hands. Fold in the mayonnaise, shallots, vinegar, parsley, olive oil and Dali spice blend. Mix until the ingredients reach the consistency of a thick egg salad. Season to taste with salt and peppe
r.
Spoon some of the egg salad onto the toasted baguette rounds and place a boquerone half lengthwise across the salad. Sprinkle more of the Dali spice blend over the boquerones; finish with another pinch of salt and a drizzle of olive oil and serve.
MORUNO When I think of this blend, I’m immediately taken back to the first time I tried the classic version of pintxo moruno prepared by Seamus Mullen, the chef at New York’s Tertulia restaurant. When he traveled to Spain, he fell in love with the country’s cuisine and became the best Spanish cook I’ve ever met. I created this blend as an interpretation of what he incorporates into his food at Tertulia every day. Traditionally, a mix of cumin and saffron is used to flavor meats, fish and sausages, but when it’s added to grilled vegetables, it carries a similar flavor profile. I particularly love thick wedges of fennel sprinkled with Moruno N.21 and braised.
Recipe Ideas
-1- Quarter parsnips lengthwise, toss with olive oil and Moruno and roast, then sprinkle with lemon juice.
-2- Whisk with sherry vinegar and olive oil to taste and use as a dressing for blanched fava or green beans.
-3- Mix with olive oil and marinate (1 tbsp per ½ cup oil) slices of haloumi or paneer cheese before grilling.
Also great with
braised fennel
* * *
mushroom omelet
* * *
grilled skirt steak
* * *
steamed clams
* * *
roasted salmon
Recipe from Seamus Mullen, Tertulia, New York City
I first discovered the richness of Spanish cuisine soon after moving to New York. Seamus Mullen, the chef at Tertulia, is the person who’s taught me the most about Spanish food. (Despite his American heritage, Mullen is an expert on all things Spain.) I love his pure, clean approach to cooking, and these easy lamb skewers are an example of that philosophy. A coarse spice blend such as my Moruno N.21 spice blend is also great in meatballs: It both seasons the meat and gives the spheres a crunchy crust.
INGREDIENTS
MAKES 14 SKEWERS
1 teaspoon kosher salt
2 tablespoons Moruno N.21 spice blend, plus more for garnish
2 garlic cloves, coarsely chopped
1 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest
1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling
1/2 cup roughly chopped mint
1/2 cup roughly chopped parsley
1 pound lamb top round or lamb loin, cut into 1-inch cubes
Freshly ground pepper
Coarse sea salt
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
INSTRUCTIONS
In a mixing bowl, combine the salt, Moruno spice blend, garlic, lemon zest, oil, mint and parsley. Add the lamb and season with black pepper.
Thread the lamb onto metal or bamboo skewers (3 to 4 pieces of lamb per skewer). Place on a platter, cover with plastic and refrigerate for at least 4 hours or overnight.
Prepare a medium-hot grill or heat a grill pan over medium-high heat. Add the skewers and grill, turning once, until the lamb is cooked through, about 1 to 2 minutes per side.
Sprinkle the skewers with sea salt and Moruno, drizzle with olive oil and lemon juice, and serve.
CATALUÑA Cataluña N.22 was made for Tertulia chef Seamus Mullen, but it has its origins in a tomato and cinnamon stew I made every day in my apprenticeship in the south of France near the Spanish border. During my six-month stint in the town of Céret at les Feiullants, I had my first encounter with land and sea cuisine (what the Western world considers “surf and turf ”). There, fresh seafood was served with meat and fruit in both sweet and savory presentations; even vegetables could be found in dessert. I specifically recall being impressed by a particular eggplant tart and crème Catalan with fennel and bell peppers. Now, 12 years later, my eagerness to combine smoked cinnamon with smoked paprika immediately brings me back to traditional Catalonian cuisine and pleasant memories of the region’s beautifully thick accent.
Recipe Ideas
-1- Mix with crumbled feta cheese and serve with crackers or toast.
-2- Add to your favorite marinara sauce to taste and use in lasagna or pizza.
-3- Add to sliced roasted beets and toss with red wine vinegar for a salad.
Also great with
tomato soup
* * *
meatballs
* * *
barbecue sauce
* * *
roast pork tenderloin
* * *
steamed mussels
Recipe from Paul Liebrandt, Corton, New York City
Paul has definitely created his own cuisine and food vocabulary. He combines traditional and modern techniques, always with great aesthetics. Cataluña N.22 spice blend is my reflection on Spain’s Catalan cuisine, which blends sweet and savory components. This dish is a good example: Is it a sweet hors d’oeuvre or a savory dessert? I’ll let you decide.
INGREDIENTS
MAKES ABOUT 3 DOZEN FINANCIERS
1 pound piquillo peppers, seeded and drained (about 12 peppers)
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
11/4 teaspoons salt, divided
1/2 teaspoon Piment d‘Esplette
1 tablespoon pure maple syrup
1 tablespoon red wine vinegar
9 tablespoons unsalted butter
4 egg whites
1 cup blanched sliced almonds, ground into a fine powder in a coffee or spice grinder
1/2 cups confectioners’ sugar
1⁄3 cup all-purpose flour
3 tablespoons Cataluña N.22 spice blend, divided
6 ounces chèvre or other fresh goat’s-milk cheese
INSTRUCTIONS
Make the piquillo-pepper purée: Place the piquillo peppers in a blender with the olive oil, 1⁄4 teaspoon salt, Piment d‘Esplette, maple syrup and vinegar and blend until smooth. Pass through a fine-mesh strainer into a bowl and set aside.
Make the brown butter: Melt the butter in a small saucepan over low heat while stirring with a wooden spoon. Bring the butter to a simmer and cook until it turns golden brown and smells nutty, about 6 to 8 minutes; be careful not to let the butter burn. Pass the brown butter through a fine-mesh strainer into a bowl and set aside.
Beat the egg whites in a standing mixer or with an electric handheld mixer in a large bowl until soft peaks form. Sift the powdered almond flour, confectioners’ sugar, all-purpose flour and the remaining teaspoon of salt into a bowl and fold into the egg whites. Fold in the brown butter. Fold in 1⁄2 cup of the piquillo-pepper purée and 2 tablespoons of the Cataluña. Cover and refrigerate for at least 4 hours or overnight.
In a mixing bowl, blend the goat cheese with the remaining pepper purée and the remaining tablespoon of Cataluña and season with salt and pepper. Refrigerate until chilled.
Preheat the oven to 350°. Grease a financier baking mold or a mini muffin pan with nonstick cooking spray. Fill the molds three-quarters full with the batter. Bake for about 12 minutes or until a toothpick inserted into the center of one of the financiers comes out clean. Remove the financiers from the molds and let cool. Serve with the goat-cheese spread.
TANGIER Where Marrakesh N.6 is the coarse and pungent representation of Moroccan cuisine, Tangier N.23 is its perfume essence. A sweet, floral blend of rose petals, cinnamon and cardamom, this mixture is a testament to the long-held tradition of burning spices for religious ceremonies and medicinal uses and to fill a room with an aromatic bouquet. It’s a more subtle addition to customary Moroccan cooking, which honors the classic ras el hanout (“head of the shop”), a spice blend that is the basis of many dishes there. Each family creates its own interpretation, then spoons it into dishes at the very beginning of cooking to achieve complexity and other dimensions of flavor. This mixture sits in a jar in every kitchen, ready to be sprinkled into tagines, couscous and pastries.
Recipe Ideas
-1- Blend with yogurt and olive oil to taste and use as a quick sauce for grilled meat or fish.
-2- Mix with melted butter and chicken stock and use as a braising liquid for cod or red snapper.
-3- Season sliced apples or pears with Tangier and sauté in olive oil for a side dish to serve with roast turkey.
Also great with
rice with dried fruit
* * *
grilled zucchini
* * *
chicken tagine
* * *