Lonely Planet Laos
Page 37
At the border The Lao border offers 30-day tourist visas on arrival and has an exchange booth. Some nationalities require a Vietnam visa in advance, so check with the Vietnamese consulate in Savannakhet. Most regional visitors, Scandinavian visitors, and British, French, German, Italian and Spanish visitors do not need a visa.
Moving on Once through, take a motorbike (40,000d or US$2) 2km to the Lao Bao bus terminal and transport to Dong Ha (70,000d, two hours, 80km) on Vietnam's main north–south highway and railway. Entering Laos, there are buses to Savannakhet (60,000K, five to six hours) at 7.30am, 9.30am, 10am and noon, as well as regular sŏrngtăaou (passenger trucks) to Sepon (30,000K, one hour) from 7am to 5pm. Simple accommodation is available on both sides of the border.
If you're in a hurry, an alternative is to take one of the various direct buses from Savannakhet bound for the Vietnamese cities of Dong Ha, Hué and Danang.
8Getting Around
Savannakhet is just big enough that you might occasionally need a jumbo. A charter around town costs around 15,000K and more like 20,000K to the bus station.
Motorcycles can be hired at Souannavong Guest House for 70,000K to 80,000K per day. The eco-guide unit provides a comprehensive list of places that hire out motorbikes. There are also a few places to rent bicycles; most are along Th Ratsavongseuk and charge about 10,000K per day.
Around Savannakhet
1Sights
That Ing HangTEMPLE
(ທາດອິງຮັງ 5000K; h7am-6pm)
Thought to have been built in the mid-16th century, this well-proportioned, 9m-high thâat is the second-holiest religious edifice in southern Laos after Wat Phu Champasak. It's located about 11.5km northeast of Savannakhet via Rte 9, then 3km east and the turn-off is clearly signposted. Going by bicycle or motorbike is the easiest option.
The Buddha is believed to have stopped here when he was sick during his wanderings back in ancient times. He rested by leaning (ing) on a hang tree (thus Ing Hang). A relic of the Buddha's spine is reputed to be kept inside the thâat.
Not including the Mon-inspired cubical base, That Ing Hang was substantially rebuilt during the reign of King Setthathirat (1548–71) and now features three terraced bases topped by a traditional Lao stupa and a gold umbrella weighing 40 baht (450g). A hollow chamber in the lower section contains a fairly undistinguished collection of Buddha images; by religious custom, women are not permitted to enter the chamber. The French restored That Ing Hang in 1930. The That Ing Hang Festival is held on the full moon of the first lunar month.
Any northbound bus can stop here, or you could haggle with a sakai-làap (jumbo) driver to take you here (you'll do well to knock him down below 100,000K return).
Dong NatadWILDLIFE RESERVE
(ດົງນາທາດ )
Dong Natad is a sacred, semi-evergreen forest within a provincial protected area 15km from Savannakhet. It's home to two villages that have been coexisting with the forest for about 400 years, with villagers gathering forest products such as mushrooms, fruit, oils, honey, resins and insects. It's possible to visit Dong Natad by bicycle, motorbike or tuk-tuk from Savannakhet. Travelling alone to Dong Natad will be something of a 'forest-lite' experience, however. It's better to engage one of Savannakhet's English-speaking guides through the eco-guide unit.
The unit offers various programs, ranging from multiday homestays to one-day cycling trips, and ranging in price from 1,000,000K to 2,000,000K for one person in a group of two (prices drop substantially the more people there are). These community-based trips have had plenty of positive feedback and the combination of English-speaking guide and village guide proves a great source of information about how the local people live. If you visit, there's a good chance you'll encounter villagers collecting red ants, cicadas or some other critter, depending on the season; all are important parts of their diet and economy. Make arrangements at least a day ahead.
Heuan HinRUINS
(ເຮືອນຫິນ, Stone House )
On the Mekong River about 90km south of Savannakhet is this set of Cham or Khmer ruins, built between AD 553 and 700. Apart from a few walls, most of the stones of this pre-Angkorian site now lie in piles of rubble. Sŏrngtăaou (30,000K, two to three hours, 78km) leave Talat Savan Xai when full (usually mid-morning).
No carvings remain, with the only known lintel having been carted off to Paris. It's a long haul by public transport and you'd need to be a truly dedicated temple enthusiast to make the trip here. With your own transport, head south along Rte 13 and turn west at Ban Nong Nokhian, near Km 490, from where it's a dusty 17km to the site. Guided tours are also available from Savannakhet.
Dong Phu Vieng NPA ປ່າສະຫງວນແຫ່ງຊາດດົງພູວຽງ
One of the most fascinating treks in Laos is to Dong Phu Vieng NPA (ປ່າສະຫງວນແຫ່ງຊາດດົງພູວຽງ), which offers a rare chance to step into a rapidly disappearing world. The park, south of Muang Phin in the centre of Savannakhet Province, is home to a number of Katang villages, where you can stay if you observe local customs.
The trek involves a fair bit of walking through a mix of forests ranging from dense woodlands to bamboo forests and rocky areas with little cover, or paths only accessible during the dry season (November to May). There's a boat trip on the third day. A village guide leads trekkers through a sacred forest where you'll see lak la'puep (clan posts placed in the jungle by village families). Animals regularly seen include the rare silver langur, the leaf monkey and the hornbill.
SLEEPING WITH SPIRITS
The Katang villagers of Dong Phu Vieng National Protected Area (NPA) believe in the myriad spirits that surround them in the forest. One of the most important is the house spirit, which is believed to live in the home of every village family. Over the centuries a series of taboos have been developed in an effort to avoid disturbing this spirit, and as a visitor in a Katang home, it is vitally important you don't break them.
AYou should never enter the owner's bedroom or touch the spirit place.
ADo not sleep beside a person of the opposite sex, even if that person is your spouse. If you really can't be separated tell the eco-guide unit and they can bring a tent for you.
ASleep with your head pointed towards the nearest outside wall; never point your feet at the outside wall or, spirits forbid, another person's head.
It goes without saying that these villages are extremely sensitive to outside influence, which is why you can only visit them as part of the organised trek through the eco-guide unit in Savannakhet.
Phu Xang Hae NPA ປ່າສະຫງວນແຫ່ງຊາດຊ້າງແຫ່
Named after Wild Elephant Mountain, Phu Xang Hae NPA (ປ່າສະຫງວນແຫ່ງຊາດຊ້າງແຫ່ ) is a long expanse of forest stretching east–west across the remote north of Savannakhet Province, and its hills are the source of several smaller rivers. The eco-guide unit in Savannakhet previously ran a five-day community-based trek here, but this is currently not operating due to a lack of demand.
The Phu Thai people who live here, like the Katang of Dong Phu Vieng NPA, observe a series of taboos. Unfortunately, the diabolical state of the roads means getting into Phu Xang Hae is very difficult.
Sepon (Xepon) & the Ho Chi Minh Trail
Pop 40,000 / %041
Like so many other towns that needed to be rebuilt following the Second Indochina War, Sepon (often spelt Xepon) is today fairly unremarkable. The main reason for coming here is to see parts of the Ho Chi Minh Trail and what's left of the old district capital, Sepon Kao, 6km to the east.
1Sights
Sepon was once an important hub on the Ho Chi Minh Trail and there are several key war-related sites in the area. Savannakhet's Tourist Information Centre publishes a map-based guide of the area, which is useful when exploring the area.
War MuseumMUSEUM
(%020-99919709; Ban Dong; 10,000K; h8am-11.30am & 1.30-4pm Mon-Sun)
&n
bsp; Twenty kilometres east of Sepon, Ban Dong (Dong Village) was on one of the major thoroughfares of the Ho Chi Minh Trail and is the easiest place to see what little material is left from the war. Most of what was previously scattered around the area has been gathered into the gated front lawn of the newly opened War Museum.
These include two American-built tanks used during Operation Lam Son 719, a disastrous Army of the Republic of Vietnam (ARVN) assault on the Ho Chi Minh Trail in February 1971. Despite support from US combat aircraft, the ARVN troops retreated across the border at Lao Bao after being routed by seasoned North Vietnamese Army (NVA) troops at Ban Dong. To see the tanks, part of a plane, guns and other scrap, the museum is at the eastern edge of Ban Dong and is bordered by a baby-blue-and-pink fence.
Muang PhinHISTORIC SITE
(ເມືອງພິນ )F
An imposing Vietnamese-built monument to Lao-Vietnamese cooperation during the Indochina wars stands in Muang Phin, 155km east of Savannakhet and 34km west of Sepon. Done in the stark 'Heroes of Socialism' style, the monument depicts North Vietnamese Army (NVA) and Pathet Lao (PL) soldiers waving an AK-47 and Lao flag aloft.
HO CHI MINH TRAIL
The infamous Ho Chi Minh Trail is actually a complex network of dirt paths and gravel roads running parallel to the Laos–Vietnam border from Khammuan Province in the north to Cambodia in the south. The trail's heaviest use occurred between 1966 and 1971 when more than 600,000 North Vietnamese Army (NVA) troops – along with masses of provisions and 500,000 tonnes of trucks, tanks, weapons and ordnance – passed along the route in direct violation of the 1962 Geneva Accords. At any one time around 30,000 NVA troops guarded the trail, which was honeycombed with underground barracks, fuel and vehicle repair depots, hospitals and rest camps, as well as ever-more-sophisticated anti-aircraft emplacements.
The North Vietnamese denied the existence of the trail throughout most of the war. And the US denied bombing it. In spite of 1.1 million tonnes of saturation bombing (begun in 1965 and reaching up to 900 sorties per day by 1969, including outings by B-52 behemoths), traffic along the route was never interrupted for more than a few days. Like a column of ants parted with a stick, the Vietnamese soldiers and supplies poured southward with only an estimated 15% to 20% of the cargo affected by the bombardment. One estimate says 300 bombs were dropped for every NVA casualty.
Contrary to popular understanding, the trail was neither a single route nor a tiny footpath. Several NVA engineering battalions worked on building roads, bridges and defence installations, and methods to hide the trails from the air were simple but ingenious. Bridges were built just below the water level and branches were tied together to hide what had become wide roads.
Today, the most accessible points are at Ban Dong, east of Sepon, and the village of Pa-am in Attapeu Province, which sits almost right on the main thoroughfare. Here you can see a couple of tanks and a surface-to-air missile. Elsewhere you'll need to get way out into the sticks and get locals to guide you.
Drivenbyadventure, run by Vientiane-based GPS mapper Don Duvall, runs all-inclusive history-infused motorbike trips on the trail. Check out some amazing photographs to whet your appetite for adventure at www.laosgpsmap.com/ho-chi-minh-trail-laos.
4Sleeping
Vieng Xay GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$
(%041-214895; Rte 9; s/d from 70,000/80,000K; a)
The Vieng Xay is hands down the town's best digs, with 30 mostly large rooms with TV, air-con and hot water. There's also a decent cafe serving Lao fare. A stairway bordered by bomb casings leads to more rooms out the back.
Khamvieng Tienmalay GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$
(%020-2246519; r 80,000-100,000K)
This guesthouse just west of the market has 10 basic rooms with fans and en suite bathrooms but little else in the way of comforts.
8Getting There & Away
Sŏrngtăaou and the occasional bus leave from outside Sepon's market for Savannakhet (35,000K, four to five hours, 196km) between about 8am and 3pm; otherwise, flag down any bus heading west for the same price. There are also relatively frequent sŏrngtăaou to Ban Dong (10,000K) and the border at Dansavanh (20,000K, one hour) during the same times, or you could hop on any bus going in that direction.
Southern Laos
Southern Laos Highlights
Pakse
Around Pakse
Don Kho & Ban Saphai
Phou Xieng Thong NPA
Champasak
Around Champasak
Don Daeng
Wat Phu World Heritage Area
Uo Moung (Tomo Temple)
Kiet Ngong
Se Pian NPA
Bolaven Plateau Region
Paksong Area
Tat Lo
Salavan
Around Salavan
Sekong
Around Sekong
Motorcycle Tour
Attapeu
Around Attapeu
Si Phan Don
Don Khong (Khong Island)
Don Det & Don Khon
Southern Laos
Why Go?
Near the Cambodian border, the Mekong awakes from its slumber, slams into Si Phan Don (Four Thousand Islands) and disintegrates into a series of churning rapids. Downstream, a dwindling pod of rare Irrawaddy dolphins seek solace in a deep river pool. In between, an expanding pod of travellers find their own solace in the hammock-strewn bungalows of Don Det and Don Khon.
Kayaking or bicycling around these bucolic islands is the signature southern Laos experience, but the rest of this incredibly diverse region – home to Angkorian temples, highland cultures, huge waterfalls, prime trekking, and raw off-the-beaten-track experiences – remained off the radar until recently. Exploring the area by rented motorbike makes for a very rewarding trip.
No longer just the realm of backpackers, southern Laos now has a scattering of upscale rural lodges and boutique hotels. New highways and dams are changing the landscape forever, so hurry up and get here.
When to Go
AOct–Nov Ideal time for bike touring, as rains trickle and dust remains manageable.
ADec–Feb Sunny and cooler – make that downright cold – on the Bolaven Plateau.
AApr It's terribly hot, but the three-day Pi Mai (New Year) means heat-beating water fights and Beerlao parties.
Best Places to Eat
A Four Thousand Sunsets
A Rahn Naem Khao Mae Fuean
A King Kong Resort
Best Places to Sleep
A Kingfisher Ecolodge
A Captain Hook Coffee Break
A Residence Sisouk
A Sala Done Khone
A Inthira Champasak Hotel
Southern Laos Highlights
1 Don Khon Ogling fierce cascades and spotting rare dolphins while touring the island by bicycle or kayak.
2 Kiet Ngong Taking a trek and a boat trip in the jungle around the region's premier ecotourism area.
3 Wat Phu Champasak Exploring this ancient Khmer temple complex.
4 Bolaven Plateau Gazing in awe at 100m-high waterfalls, sipping fair-trade coffee and soaking in the cool climate on a motorcycle trip around this plateau.
5 Si Phan Don Watching the sun set over the Mekong from the horizontal perspective of your hammock at this tropical island paradise in the Mekong River.
6 Tat Lo Waterfall-hopping and village visiting around this backpacker magnet with a laid-back vibe.
Pakse ປາກເຊ
Pop 75,000 / %031
Pakse (ປາກເຊ), the capital of Champasak Province and the gateway to southern Laos, sits at the confluence of the Mekong and the Se Don (Don River). Most travellers don't linger long because there's not much to do. The city lacks the sort of Mekong River–town lethargy found in Savannakhet and Tha Khaek further north and fewer colonial-era buildings remain.
Pakse serves mostly as a launching pad for forays to surrounding attractions such as the Bolaven Plateau and Wat Phu Champasak, and the many good restaurants, styl
ish hotels and clued-in tour companies make it a comfortable and convenient one.
Pakse
1Sights
1Champasak Historical Heritage MuseumF2
2Sacred Heart CathedralC3
3Talat Dao HeuangG4
4Wat LuangA1
2Activities, Courses & Tours
5Dok Champa MassageB2
6Green DiscoveryB2
Vat Phou CruisesA2
7Xplore-AsiaB1
4Sleeping
8Alisa GuesthouseB1
9Athena HotelD1
10Champasak Palace HotelD1
11Nang Noi GuesthouseB2
12Pakse HotelB2
13Residence SisoukA2
14Sabaidy 2 GuesthouseC1
5Eating
15BanlaoB4
16ChampadyB1
17Daolin RestaurantC1
18Dok Mai Trattoria ItalianaC1
19Friendship MinimartB1
20Jasmine RestaurantB1
21La TerrasseC1
22Lankham Noodle ShopB1
Le PanoramaB2
23Noodle Shop MengkyB1
24Pon SaiC2
25Rahn Naem Khao Mae FueanA2
Sinouk Coffee ShopA2
7Shopping