Lonely Planet Laos

by Lonely Planet

  26Champasak Shopping CentreA2

  27Dream WeaverA2

  28Monument BooksA2

  29Pakse SouvenirsB2

  8Information

  30BCELA2

  31Champasak HospitalB3

  ImmigrationB2

  32International Hitech PolyclinicB3

  Lankham Hotel Currency Exchange CounterB1

  33Lao Development BankB1

  34Main Police StationB2

  Miss NoyB1

  35Pakse TravelB1

  36Provincial Tourism OfficeA2

  37SL TravelC1

  38Vietnamese ConsulateC1

  Transport

  AvisB2

  1Sights

  Talat Dao HeuangMARKET

  (ຕະຫຼາດດາວເຮືອງ, New Market MAP GOOGLE MAP ; h5am-6pm)

  This vast market near the Lao-Japanese Bridge is one of the biggest in the country. It's at its most chaotic in the food zones, but just about anything a person might need – from medicinal herbs to mobile phones – is sold here. It's highly worth a wander.

  Wat Phou SalaoVIEWPOINT

  (ວັດພູສະເຫຼົ້າ GOOGLE MAP ; Rte 16)

  The centrepiece of this hilltop temple across the Mekong from Pakse is the giant Buddha statue looking out over the city. The views from his perch are as fantastic as you'd expect, especially at sunset. To enjoy them, take the first left after the bridge and either climb up the long staircase or take the 4.5km road route up the back.

  Sacred Heart CathedralCHURCH

  (ມະຫາວິຫານທີ່ສັກສິດຫົວໃຈ MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Th 10; h5.30am-8pm)

  This modest, tin-roofed building isn't much to look at from the outside, but the one-of-a-kind paintings inside are worth the trip. They show Jesus in various spots around southern Laos, including Wat Phu Champasak and Khon Phapheng Falls, meeting with various tribal peoples wearing traditional dress.

  Wat LuangBUDDHIST TEMPLE

  (ວັດຫຼວງ MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Th 11)

  There are about 20 wats in Pakse, among which the riverside Wat Luang is one of the largest. The old monastic school, built in 1935, features a commanding tiled roof and ornate concrete pillars while two newer buildings have modern murals telling the Buddha's life story and other tales.

  Champasak Historical Heritage MuseumMUSEUM

  (ພິພິດທະພັນມໍລະດົກປະຫວັດສາດຈຳປາສັກ MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Rte 13; 10,000K; h8.30-11.30am & 2-4pm Mon-Fri)

  Though the labelling certainly could be better, this is a museum worth visiting. Highlights include ancient Dong Son bronze drums, unusual stone carvings unearthed up on the Bolaven Plateau in Bachieng District, stelae in Tham script dating from the 15th to 18th centuries, Khmer stone carvings, musical instruments, and some American Unexploded Ordnance (UXO). Also of interest is the textile and jewellery collection from ethnic minorities such as the Nyaheun, Suay and Laven, with large iron ankle bracelets and ivory ear plugs.

  2Activities

  Vat Phou CruisesCRUISE

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %031-251446; www.vatphou.com; just off Th 11; hoffice 8am-5pm Mon-Sat, no cruises in Jun)

  Operates three-day luxury Mekong cruises between Pakse and Si Phan Don, including visits to Wat Phu Champasak and Khon Phapheng waterfall.

  Dok Champa MassageMASSAGE

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-54188778; Th 5; massages 50,000-100,000K; h9am-10pm)

  Again and again Dok Champa comes out on top as the favourite Pakse spa, thanks to its friendly and professional staff offering you exactly the level of robust or soft pampering your weary muscles require. Reservations are recommended.

  Clinic Keo Ou DonMASSAGE

  (Traditional Medicine Hospice; GOOGLE MAP ; %020-5431115, 031-251895; massage 45,000-120,000K, sauna 20,000K; h9am-9pm, sauna 3-9pm)

  Professional and popular, this centre has an air-conditioned massage room and herbal sauna segregated by gender. To get here, head out of town on Rte 38 and turn right towards Pakse Golf, 1km east of Champasak Grand Hotel. It's on the right-hand side just a couple of hundred metres down and has both blue and green signs.

  TTours

  Most people organise their southern Laos tours and treks in Pakse. Pretty much all hotels and travel agencies sell a standard selection of day trips to the Bolaven Plateau, Wat Phu Champasak, and Kiet Ngong. The cheapest tours are simply transportation; admission fees and meals are not included and there is no guide. For many people this is fine, but for others it's a disappointing surprise. Be sure you know what you are getting before you agree to go.

  Green DiscoveryADVENTURE

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %031-252908; www.greendiscoverylaos.com; Th 10; 2-day Tree Top Explorer tour 2-/4-person group per person US$308/240; h8am-8pm)

  Green Discovery is a solid all-around tour company offering private and small group tours. It goes places and does things no other company does. Its signature trip is the Tree Top Explorer adventure in Dong Hua Sao NPA near Paksong on the Bolaven Plateau. It consists of two or three days' ziplining, canopy walking and jungle trekking around waterfalls beyond any roads.

  4Sleeping

  The tourist centre is on Rte 13 between the Souphanouvong Bridge (formerly the French Bridge) and Th 24. Stay here if you want easy access to travel agencies, motorbike rentals, money changers and touristy restaurants. Around the corner you'll find more hotels and restaurants in the commercial district, which is centred around the Champasak Shopping Centre. If you're staying anywhere else, rent a motorbike or bicycle to get around.

  oAlisa GuesthouseHOTEL$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %031-251555; www.alisa-guesthouse.com; Rte 13; r 120,000-150,000K, f 200,000K; naiW)

  Perhaps the best value lodging in Pakse, Alisa has sparkling rooms, tiled floors, solid wood beds, armoires, working satellite TV and a fridge. Service is good too. The only significant knock is that some rooms barely catch a wi-fi signal. No surprise, it's often full.

  Nang Noi GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %030-9562544; bounthong1978@hotmail.com; Th 5; dm 40,000K, r 60,000-110,000K, f 200,000K; aW)

  Around the corner from the tourist strip, but seemingly far away, this popular (ie often full) spot has quiet, spiffy rooms and English-speaking owners. Note the 11pm curfew.

  Sabaidy 2 GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %031-212992; www.sabaidy2tour.com; Th 24; dm 35,000K, d with fan/air-con 100,000/125,000K, s/d without bathroom 50,000/70,000K; aW)

  Though not the great place it used to be, Sabaidy 2 still has an easy, relaxed vibe and is the most communal spot in town. Rooms are split between the older wooden building, which is basic but clean, and a much better new building in back: think wooden balcony, beneath which coy carp swim; rustic-chic interiors; desks and air-con.

  oAthena HotelHOTEL$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %031-214888; www.athenahotelpakse.com; Rte 13; r incl breakfast US$70-100; naiWs)

  Easily the most modern and slick hotel in Pakse, Athena's subdued style features a lot of wood. The beds are marshmallowy delights, and dimming inlaid ceiling lights let you illuminate them in many ways. The cosy pool is most welcome after a day out on dusty roads. It's about a 10-minute walk from the tourist centre.

  oResidence SisoukBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %031-214716; www.residence-sisouk.com; cnr Th 9 & Th 11; r US$50-100; naiW)

  This exquisite boutique hotel occupies a lovely old house and evokes a bit of old France. The rooms enjoy polished hardwood floors, flat-screen TVs, verandahs, Hmong bed runners, stunning photography and fresh flowers everywhere. Breakfast is in the penthouse cafe with great views. Paying extra gets you a bigger, brighter room with a balcony in front; standard rooms are at the back.

  Pakse HotelHOTEL$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %031-212131; www.paksehotel.com; Th 5; s 200,000-500,000K, d 250,000-550,000K, ste 700,000-950,000K, all incl breakfast; aiW)

  This traditional-luxe hotel towering
over central Pakse has a welcoming lobby and corridors festooned with indigenous sculptures and textiles. The economy rooms are dark (windows only open to the interior hallway) and the standard rooms are cramped, so consider an upgrade to at least a superior (from 350,000K), which includes Mekong views.

  Mekong Paradise ResortHOTEL$$

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; %031-212120; r US$38-85; naW)

  A riverside spot just 3km southeast of central Pakse that makes for a wonderful escape from the city. Most rooms have unbeatable Mekong sunset views. The superior rooms (US$55) with their private balconies are almost romantic, but the views are actually better from the US$45 Mekong Paradise rooms. The Garden View rooms (US$38) defeat the point of staying out here.

  Champasak Palace HotelHOTEL$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %031-212263; www.champasakpalacehotel.com; Rte 13; s 200,000-350,000K, d 250,000-400,000K, ste 550,000-2,000,000K; aW)

  You can't miss this vast, wedding-cake-style building originally built as a palace for Chao Boun Oum, the last prince of Champasak and Lao prime minister between 1960 and 1962. The standard rooms are a tad twee, but well-kept with comfortable beds, while the graceful restaurant and common areas turn heads with wood columns, louvred windows and random flair such as the rooftop lounge's ceiling.

  5Eating

  Two good morning spots for delicious fĕr (rice noodles) are the Noodle Shop Mengky ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Rte 13; noodles 15,000K; h6am-1pm) and the more tourist-friendly Lankham Noodle Shop ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Rte 13; noodles 15,000-25,000K; h6am-2pm; W) across the road. The later also does baguette sandwiches.

  Self-caterers can head to the centrally located Friendship Minimart ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Rte 13; h8am-8pm) or the larger, but distant Friendship Super Mart ( GOOGLE MAP ; Rte 13; h9am-9pm) inside the Friendship Mall. Several fruit vendors open early to late next to Champasak Shopping Centre.

  oPon SaiLAOTIAN$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP )

  For a wonderful local morning experience, head to Pon Sai at the junction of Th 34 and Th 46, which bustles with small shops and street vendors selling fĕr, baguette sandwiches, kòw nĕeo bîng (grilled, egg-dipped sticky rice patties) and many doughy delights. Though it's best in the morning, some shops stay open through the day and into the night.

  oRahn Naem Khao Mae FueanLAOTIAN, THAI$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Th 11; mains 25,000-40,000K; h9am-10.30pm; W)

  This local joint offers a rare combination: real-deal Lao food and an English-language menu. Well, something close to English anyway…the 'fried chicken power' is really stir-fried holy basil with chicken. It's well-known for pan mîiang baa (a sort of make-your-own fish sandwich) and also serves láhp (spicy Lao-style salad of minced meat poultry or fish) and Mekong River algae soup. The deck on the Se Don is a big bonus.

  La TerrasseLAOTIAN, INTERNATIONAL$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Th 24; mains 20,000-65,000K; h7.30am-11pm; W)

  A block off the main road on the edge of the tourist strip, the clientele are a mix of travellers and expats. The menu is half Lao-Thai and half Western, though the stars are the giant wood-fired pizzas (evenings only) and over-stuffed baguette sandwiches. It also brews its own special fruity lòw-lów (rice whisky).

  Daolin RestaurantLAOTIAN, INTERNATIONAL$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Rte 13; mains 15,000-50,000K; h6am-10pm; Wv)

  Despite the incessant traffic noise, this restaurant is usually filled with backpackers due to good food and service. It has a range of pastas and some of the best Thai food in town. It's the perfect spot for vegetarians to try Lao food that is usually meat-based, such as pumpkin om curry and mushroom gôy.

  ChampadyTHAI, LAOTIAN$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Th 13; mains 13,000-40,000K; h7am-8pm; Wv)

  One of Pakse's best choices for Thai food, Champady has a fairly extensive menu from glass-noodle salad to southern sour curry, plus a good selection of coffees and juices, all served on a small patio. We recommend the hearty tôm yam.

  Sinouk Coffee ShopCAFE$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; cnr Th 9 & Th 11; mains 30,000-45,000K; h6.30am-9pm; aW)

  Stylish Sinouk has glass-topped tables inlaid with coffee beans as that's what it's all about – delicious Arabica coffee grown on its plantation in the Bolavan Plateau. If you're after more, then get started on the panini sandwiches, salads, pastas and the usual Thai-Lao mix of dishes. It's one of the priciest spots in the city, but the quality is high.

  Jasmine RestaurantINDIAN$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Rte 13; mains 10,000-30,000K; h7am-11pm; v)

  It's the location as much as the masala that keeps this old-timer bulging with happy customers. The menu mixes both Indian and Malay food and there are many vegie choices including a nice selection of fruit salads.

  Dok Mai Trattoria ItalianaITALIAN$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Th 24; mains 25,000-60,000K; h11am-11pm Wed-Mon; W)

  Italian-owned, this little gem aims for culinary authenticity (there's no garlic bread, for example) with perfectly prepared pasta and eggplant parmigiana, plus a big selection of salads. And it all comes with a fantastic rock and roll soundtrack and garden seating in back.

  BanlaoTHAI, LAOTIAN$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Th 11; mains 20,000-80,000K; h10am-10pm)

  One of several floating restaurants in Pakse, Banlao has a reliable menu of expected favourites but also many dishes you might not have encountered before, such as the seasonal ant egg gôy (gôy kài mót sòm – gôy is similar to láhp but with added blood) and a whole page of sticky rice dipping sauces (jaew) including eggplant and cricket. For the less adventurous there's mild, central-Thai papaya salad and grilled fish with herbs.

  Le PanoramaLAOTIAN, INTERNATIONAL$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Th 5; mains 30,000-85,000K; h4.30-10pm; Wv)

  The rooftop restaurant of the Pakse Hotel serves up delicious Franco-Asian cuisine and unbeatable 360-degree city views. The menu includes duck breast, pizza and a succulent Ъah neung het hŏrm (stuffed fish steamed in banana leaves). It's a shame the service is downright dreadful.

  7Shopping

  Coffee from the Bolaven Plateau is the traditional souvenir from the region; pick up a bag at any cafe. Several shops in Champasak Shopping Centre (Champasak Plaza; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; h8am-7pm) and Talat Dao Heuang sell typical Lao skirts.

  Pakse SouvenirsARTS & CRAFTS

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Th 5; h8am-6pm)

  The quality textiles and woven bamboo products here come mostly from northern Laos, but there is some southern stuff too. Unique to this shop are the owners' modern designs incorporating older textiles into bags, table runners and the like.

  Dream WeaverARTS & CRAFTS

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Th 11; h8am-8pm)S

  This small NGO-supported shop stocks, as the name suggests, mostly woven fabrics, but there are other souvenirs as well. Most of the products are made by trafficking victims and their families.

  Monument BooksBOOKS

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Th 5; h9am-8pm Mon-Sat, to 6pm Sun)

  This upmarket bookshop is your best stop for maps of Laos and her neighbours, plus postcards and a superb range of regional historical and cultural books.

  8Information

  Internet Access

  Miss Noy ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-22272278; noy7days@hotmail.com; Rte 13; internet per hour 8000K; h8am-8pm) and SL Travel ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Th 24; internet per hour 10,000K, bicycle 20,000K; h6.30am-9pm) have internet with good connections.

  Medical Services

  International Hitech Polyclinic (VIP Clinic; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %031-214712; ihpc_lao@yahoo.com; cnr Th 1 & Th 10; h24hr) Adjacent to the public hospital ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %031-252928; Th 10; h24hr), it has English-speaking staff and much higher standards of care, service and facilities, plus a pharmacy.

  Money

  Banks, such as the conveniently located BCEL ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Th 11; h8.30am-3.30pm Mon-Fri) and Lao Development Bank ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Rte 13; h8am-4pm Mon-Fri, to 3pm Sat & Sun), have the best currency-exchange rates, though
the exchange counter at the Lankham Hotel ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; h7am-7pm) is good too. All three give cash advances (3% commission) on credit cards. LDB also has Western Union and can exchange US dollar travellers cheques (1%).

  ATMs are plentiful in the city centre.

  Post

  Main Post Office ( GOOGLE MAP ; Th 8; h8am-noon & 1-5pm Mon-Fri) A short walk from the tourist strip.

  Telephone

  Unitel ( GOOGLE MAP ; Rte 13; h8am-4pm Mon-Fri, to noon Sat) Makes a convenient stop for a local SIM card if you are just arriving in Laos. Staff can set your smartphone up with 3G internet.

  Tourist Information

  Provincial Tourism Office ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %031-212021; Th 11; h8am-4pm Mon-Fri) Mostly exists to hand out maps and brochures, but some staff can answer questions or help you make bookings for homestays and activities at Kiet Ngong, Don Kho and Don Daeng.

  Miss Noy The gang here are clued in to the region, especially the Bolaven Plateau.

  Visas

  Pakse's immigration bureau ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Th 10; h8-11am & 2-4pm Mon-Fri) is at the main police station, in the tallest building. To extend your stay, bring a photocopy of your passport name page and visa, two photos, and 30,000K plus 20,000K per day. A minimum of three days and a maximum of 30 should be ready the next afternoon.