Swindled
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Delicious Brand Imitation Jam, 226–27
Deminati, Paul, 286
Denmark, banning of Kellogg’s cereals in, 239
Dhaka City Corporation (DCC), 319–20
Dickens, Charles, 159
Diderot, Denis, 71
Diet Coke, 244, 246–47
diet food. See slimming foods
distillers: adulteration by, 58–59; whiskey rectifiers and the Pure Food bill, 203
Dockstader, Len, 188
Dodge Commission, 181
Doubleday, publication of The Jungle, 193, 195
Double Gloucester cheese, contamination of, 29–30
Drouitt’s Institution, 107
drugs: garblers’ policing of, 92–93; not considered in this book, xiii; regulations strengthened regarding, 225
Drummond, Jack, 220
Du Barry & Co., 135
Duboeuf, George, 63
Dumas, Jean-Baptiste, 118
Dunlap, F. L., 210
East End Foods, 296
East India Company, 92
East Week, report on making fake eggs, 313
Eckerperigan, Johnny, 311
Ecott, Tim, 260
Edward III (king of England), 57
Edward I (king of England), 90
eggs: fake in China, 313–14; free-range, 311–12
Eilkman, Christian, 236
Eisenhower, Dwight: additives, support for, 231; “dynamic conservatism” of, 228–29
Eliot, George, 94–95
“embalmed beef ” scandal, 181–82
enclosures, 21
Engels, Friedrich, 101, 103–4, 106
England. See Britain
Engl’gardt, A. N., 76
English Housekeeper, The (Raffald), 25–26
ersatz food: in China, 314; slimming food as, 247–48; in wartime Germany, 214–18. See also synthetic food
Ersatzmensch, 217
Essay on Milk (Hartley), 155
esters, 251–52
European Magazine, profile of Accum, 39–40
European Union: flavourings, rules regarding, 259–60; genetically modified foods not grown in, 304; Protected Designation of Origin (PDO), 285
Everbody’s Magazine, power of the Beef Trust, 196
Every Man His Own Brewer (Child), 36
Explanatory Dictionary of the Apparatus and Instruments Employed . . . by a Practical Chemist (Accum), 13
fake food. See synthetic food
famine, bread and, 73–77
famine foods, 74–76, 215. See also synthetic food
farinaceous foods, 133–36
farming: animal husbandry, increased fat in meat from modern, 302–3; genetically modified crops, 304–5; modern agriculture, decreased proteins in fruits and vegetables from, 303–4
Fast Food Nation (Schlosser), 252–53
fats, hydrogenated (trans), 299–301
FDA. See Food and Drug Administration, U.S.
Feingold, Ben, 265
Feingold Diet, 265
Felton, 254–55
Filby, Frederick, 81
“Filled Milk Act” of 1923, 223
filth guidelines, 305–7
Finch, Robert, 242
flavourings and flavourists: advertising of, 230, 248–49, 254–58; deception as the business of, 258–61; government regulation, lack of, 253; laws on, 259–60; market knowledge, successful flavours based on, 256–58; the new artistry of, 248–53; raspberries, fixation on, 255–56
“flour of meat,” 149
fluorimetry, 118
folic acid, in bread, 240
food: authenticity, definition of, 286; gourmet, swindles involving, 280–86; institutional, 106–7; processing aids in, 301–2; protected origin, 283–86; purity as goal in (see purity); quality of (see quality of food); synthetic (see synthetic food); testing of (see testing of food); trademarks and labelling of, 200–203
Food, Drug and Cosmetic Act of 1938 (U.S.), 225
Food Additives Amendment of 1958 (U.S.), 231–32
Food and Drug Administration (FDA), U.S.: additives and, 231; aspartame, actions regarding, 244–47; cyclamate, actions regarding, 243; fabricated products, problem of, 224; filth guidelines, 306–7; the Imitation Jam case, 226–27; jam, setting of standards for, 225–26, 233; labelling, Kessler’s championing of, 274–76; non-recipe-based food standards, issuance of, 232–33; Red Dye no. 2, banning of, 264; saccharin, banning of, 244; “safe and suitable” ingredients as a standard used by, 233
Food Education Society, 237
food forensics. See testing of food
food frauds/panics/scares: contemporary, 272–73, 298–99; the “embalmed beef” scandal, 181–82; on the European continent, 110–11; the fake milk scandal in China, 315–18; famine foods, 74–76; free-range food fraud, 311–12; the great bread scare of 1757–58, 77–84; history of, xi, 272; hysteria associated with, 76–77; labelling as answer to (see labelling); the lozenge scandal, 139–40, 298; publicity and, 115–17; scaremongering, 163–64, 298–99; the Sudan 1 affair, 299; Surrey 154–63; trans fats as an invisible danger, 299–301
Food Law Bulletin, on Wiley’s opposition to benzoate-enhanced ketchup, 205
Food Protection Committee (U.S.), 229
Food Scandal, The (Walker), 266
Food Stamp program, 234
Food Standards Agency (FSA): Authenticity Unit, DNA analysis of Basmati rice, 292–98; Authenticity Unit, food surveys undertaken by, 287–89, 291–92; Authenticity Unit, tools of food forensics used by, 289–92; enzymes, consideration of tighter labelling laws for, 301; labelling, comment on by official of, 278; pesticide residues in food, survey of, 307; the Sudan 1 affair and, 299
Food Standards Committee (Britain), 267
food technology. See flavourings and flavourists; synthetic food
fortification of food: bread, 236–37; deceptions associated with, 240–41; as marketing gimmick, 237–38; overconsumption and, 241–42; promotion of, 236, 239–41; salt, iodine added to, 235; vitamin poisoning from, 237–39
Fortnum’s, 100
France: abattoirs (municipal slaughterhouses) in Paris, 200; adulteration of wine, the problem of regulating, 59–60; adulteration of wine before the twentieth century, 56–57; Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée (AOC) system, 60–62, 283–85; baking of bread, regulation of, 71–73, 110; bread, eighteenth-century enforcement of standards for, 47; bread, pride in, 89; chemical analysis of food in, 118; craft guilds in, 87, 89; food regulation and quality, comparison with Britain regarding, 110–15; lead added to spoiled wine in, 54; margarine, creation of, 169; mesureurs, the guild of, 90; Paris, quality of milk in, 158–59; regulation of sweets in, 113 Curry scandal, 279; the swill milk scandal,
Fraternity of St. Anthony, 91
“free range” food, 311–12
FSA. See Food Standards Agency
Galen, 74
Gallati, Mario, 220–21
garblers, 91–93
Garfield, James, 196
gas chromatography, 252, 290
gas lighting, 7–9
Gay-Lussac, J. L., 118
General Foods Corporation, 247–48
General Motors, 261
genetic modification (GM), 304–5
Germany: Accum’s return to, 42; American food imports containing borax, banning of, 185; doner kebab fraud in, 279; ersatz food in wartime and interwar, 214–18; Westphalia, 10–11; Wiley’s chemistry studies in, 176; wine additives, regulations regarding, 53
Gillian, S. W., 185
gin, 58–59
Gin Act of 1736 (Britain), 59
Givaudan, 250
Glasse, Hannah, 43
glucose, 177
GM. See genetic modification
Gockel, Eberhard, 53–54
goitre, 235
Good Housekeeping, Wiley at, 211
gosling, mock, 220
gourmet food, swindles involving, 280–86
government: adulteration, reasons for not acting against, 39, 95–96 (
see also buyer beware, let the; laissez-faire); beer, British standards regarding, 38; bread, regulation of, 47, 67–74, 83, 85; democracy and healthy food, Nader’s linking of, 263; enforcement of food adulteration laws (see names of countries); federal in the United States, food regulation and, 153–54; the food supply, taking responsibility for, 326; food swindling and, xii–xiii, 33–38, 93; import duties and food adulteration, 35–36; prosecutions by (see prosecutions); weights and measures (see weights and measures); wine, laws and standards regarding, 49, 53, 57, 60–62. See also names of countries
Graham, Sylvester, 83, 165, 322
GRAS (generally recognized as safe) list, 232, 243, 263
Gray, John, 38
Great Britain. See Britain
Greece, wines in ancient, 50–51
greed: as the motive for food adulteration, xii–xiii, 4, 27, 85–86, 164, 316, 322 (see also adulteration). See also swindling and swindlers
grocers: demon, 96–100; protests against food adulteration law, 146; reputation of, 93, 96; society, 100–101
Grocers’ Company, 91
grocer’s itch, 123–24
Grout, William, 171
guilds, medieval: the modern AOC system and, comparison between, 283–84; the quality of food and, 85–93
Haarmann, W., 259
haemochromatosis, 239
ham: adulteration of described in The Jungle, 193–94; boiled in champagne, 24; the PDO system and, 285; Westphalian, 11
Hardy, James, 54
Hartley, Robert, 155
Hassall, Arthur Hill: adulteration, definition of, 137, 139; advertising and advertisers, assault on, 132–36; America, his work applied to, 164; bread adultered with alum, detection of, 83; character of, 121; Crosse & Blackwell and, 141–42; flavour adjusting, exposure of, 248; food adulteration detected under the microscope, 119–24; food products, marketing of “pure,” 147, 149–50, 310; the Lancet’s publicity campaign and, 127–32; mustard, inability to find unadulterated, 128, 138; mustard, proposal for government to make, 139; Parliamentary Committee, testifying before, 136–38, 142; portrait of, 120; as public analyst, 297; pure food as goal of, 323–24; sugar adultered with sand, disproving of, 98; Walker’s admiration of, 268; water impurities detected under the microscope, 130–32; Wiley, comparison to, 174; Woolfe compared to, 286–87
Heath, Ambrose, 220
Hehner, Otto, 149–50
Heinz, Henry J., 153, 204–6, 208
Heinz tomato ketchup: advertisement for, 207; benzoate-free, marketing of, 206–9; benzoates in, 204–6; sugar in benzoate-free, 209
Heller, Albert, 182
Henry, T. H., 126
Henry III (king of England), 67
Hesser, Amanda, 247
Hinshaw, Mr. (margarine exporter), 173
Hoffman-La Roche, 240
Hofmann, August Willhem von, 176
Hogarth, William, 77
honey, 50, 177–78
Horold, William, 57
Huang Guoxiong, 318
hucksters, 102, 106
Humphry Clinker (Smollett), 5, 84
hunger, discovery in America of, 234
husk bread, 76
Hutt, Peter Barton, 306
hydrogenated (trans) fats, 299–301
Ice Pak International, 289
IFF, 250
Illustrated Newspaper, on swill milk dairies, 157, 161–62
imitation foods: labelling of diet foods, objection to, 242; new standards called for to promote, 234–35; in the United States, 222–28. See also synthetic food
India: Assam, children overdosed with vitamin A in, 239; Basmati rice grown in, 294–95 (see also Basmati rice); food adulteration rate in, 318
infant mortality, 156, 158, 163
information: about food available to the consumer (see labelling); about place of origin of food (see protected origin foods)
insects, average annual consumption per person of, 307
Institute for Public Health (Bangladesh), 319
Institute of Medicine, U.S., antioxidants, effects of overconsuming, 239
institutional food, 106–7
Interchicken, 260–61
International Labour Organization, potential effects of alum ingestion, 82–83
International Sweeteners Association, 246
Internet Journal of Toxicology, the Chinese fake egg story, 314
iodine, salt fortified with, 235
iron, danger of overdosing on, 238–39
isotopes, 290–91
Italy: protected origin system in, 285; wine scandal, aftermath of, 63
Jackson, Henry, 80–82
Jacobsen, Michael, 265
jam: fruitless, 223; the Imitation Jam case, 226–28; standards for, 225–26, 233; in wartime Germany, 216
James I (king of England), 92
Johnson, Hugh, 62
Johnson, Samuel, 24
Johnson (distiller with a swill milk dairy), 160–61
Jones, Thomas, 31–32
Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry, studies of health benefits of organic food, 308
Journal of the American Chemical Society, announcement of new sweetener discovery, 243
Julie’s Restaurant, 311
Jungle, The (Sinclair), 190–99, 305, 324
junk food, 233, 252
Juvenal, 51
Kallet, Arthur, 224–25
Kaplan, Stephen Laurence, 71
Kellogg, Ella Eaton, 165
Kellogg, James Harvey, 165
Kellogg’s, 239, 264
Kentucky Fried Chicken (KFC), cut backs in trans fats, 300
Kessler, David, 274–76
ketchup: benzoates in, 204–6; decline in benzoate-enhanced, 209; marketing of benzoate-free, 206–9; sugar in benzoate free, 209
kipper crisps, 257
Kitchiner, William, 21
Kolko, Gabriel, 203
labelling: Coca-Cola, lawsuit against based on, 211; drawbacks of in the fight against adulteration, 277–79; of genetically modified foods, 304; governments’ confidence in to solve food supply problems, 273; new systems of the 1990s, 274–77; regulations in the Pure Food Act of 1906 regarding, 200–204; swindling, as response to, 324
Ladies Library, The, copper used in a recipe in, 25
LaFollette, Robert M., 170
laissez-faire: adulteration and, xiv, 19–20, 33–35, 38–39, 108–9, 111–12, 318; shifting connotation of the term, 129. See also buyer beware, let the
Lam, Andes, 314
Lambe, William, 129–30
Lancet: Adulteration Act, contribution to the passing of, 137; advertising, Hassall’s use of false against the advertisers, 132–36; creation and agenda of, 124–26; on Crosse & Blackwell products, 141–42; public health and food adulteration, publicity campaign focused on, 126–32; on scaremongering, 116, 126
Lang, Tim, 303
Langland, William, 85
Lavoisier, Antoine, 15–16
lead: in candy, 28, 114; in cider, 54; delicious flavor of, 52; discovery as poisonous in wine, 53–54; dyeing anchovies with, 143; in mint salad, 20; poisonous effects of, 52; red, contamination of cheese by, 29–30; in wine, 51–55
Leatham, Mark, 280–82
Lebon, Philippe, 7
legalized consumer fraud, 266–71, 273
lentils: Canadian vs. AOC, 284–85; farinaceous foods and, 134–36
Leslie, Frank, 157, 161
Letheby, Henry, 137, 141, 143
Levenson, Barry, 169
Levy, Paul, 268
Liebig, Justus von, 158
liquor: ale, beer, and porter (see beer); distilled spirits (see spirits)
literary fraud/plagiarism, 43–44
Literary Gazette, review of Accum’s Treatise, 2–3, 5
Little, Ernest Graham, 237
Liu Li, 316–17
Li Xindao, 317
logwood, 32
London: adulterated food in, 5; craft guilds in, 86–87; food swindling, Hassall and the Lancet on, 127�
��29; gas lighting in, 9; Germans in, 7; milk, adulteration of, 159; New York City, comparison to, 156; regulation of bread baking in, 69–70; society grocers for the rich in, 100–101; water impurities, Hassall and the Lancet on, 130–32; the working poor and adulterated food in, 102–3. See also Britain
London, Jack, 193
London Labour and the London Poor (Mayhew), 102
London Poor Law Unions, 107
Longman, Hurst, Rees, Orme & Browne, 41
Loring, George, 178
lozenge scandal, 139–40, 298
Lucas Seasonings, 257
Lying Detected (Collins), 80
Macmillan, refusal to publish The Jungle, 193
Magna Carta, 64, 66
make-believe food, 219–20. See also synthetic food
Manni, Armando, 290
Manning, Dr., 80–82
Manual of Chemistry (Brande), 36
Marcus, Herz (Christian Accum), 10
margarine: the American battle over, 167–74, 222–23; export of, 170; French creation of, 169; low-calorie, 242; “Pink Laws” overturned by the Supreme Court, 174; U.S. patent for, 169–70; in wartime Germany, 216
Margarine Act. See Oleomargarine Act of 1886
markets: British worship of, 109. See also laissez-faire
Markham, Peter, 79, 83
Marx, Karl, 85–86
Marylebone Workhouse, 115
Mason, G. F., 204, 206
Mayhew, Henry, 102, 104, 106
McCarry, Charles, 263
McKinley, William, 181, 195
meat: beef business helped by the meat inspection law in the U.S., 200; British Food Standards’ Authenticity team, as focus of, 287–88; the “embalmed beef” scandal, 181–82; enforcement of law against selling tainted, 104–5; ersatz in wartime Germany, 216–17; “flour of meat,” 149; inadequate policing of, Nader’s exposure of, 261–62; The Jungle and meat inspection in the U.S., 190–200; modern animal husbandry’s impact on, 302–3; putrid in German doner kebab stalls, 279
Mège-Mouriès, Hippolyte, 169
microscope, use of by Hassall, 119–24, 130–32
Microscopical Examination of the Water Supplied to the Inhabitants of London and the Suburban Districts, A (Hassall), 130
Miles, Nelson A., 181
milk: adulteration of in London, 159; detecting adulteration of, 118–19, 162; fake in China, scandal of, 315–18; “Filled Milk Act” of 1923, 223; fortification of, 236; higher levels of omega 3 fatty acids in organic, 308; infant mortality and the quality of, 156, 158, 163; pasteurization of, 163; role in the American psyche of, 155; “substitute” for “artificial feeding” of babies, 158; the swill milk scandal, 154–62