Swindled
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Milk: The Deadly Poison (Cohen), 155
Milk and Honey (Smith), 1
Milk Trade in New York and Vicinity, The (Mullaly), 156
Miller, Henry, 127
mint salad, lead in, 20
Miraculin, 245, 251
Mitchell, John, 111, 117–19
Mixed Fruit Tropic Ora, 268
mock foods, 218–20. See also synthetic food
Modern Cookery, 25
Monsanto, 234, 304
More Kitchen Front Recipes (Heath), 220
Moss, Kate, 311
MSG, 263
Mueller, Sebastian, 206
Mullaly, John, 156, 159–60
Muntz, George, 136–37, 143
mustard: Accum on the adulteration of, 3; Colman’s, 138; government, proposal for, 138–39; Hassall’s inability to find unadulterated, 128, 138; as a narcotic, American temperance movement’s view of, 165; testing for the purity of, 118
Nader, Ralph, 261–63, 324
Naderphobia, 261
Nader’s Health Research Group, 263–64
Nader’s Raiders, 262–63
Napoleonic Wars, 36
Napoleon I (emperor of France), 111, 200
Napoleon III (emperor of France), 169
narangin, 245
National Association of Canners and Packers, 203
National Cancer Institute, 246–47
National Consumer’s League, 189
National Dairy Council, 155
National Food and Medicine Inspection Bureau (China), 314–15, 318
National Milk Producers, 227
natrometer, Pesier’s, 118
natural food, flavour industry’s contempt for, 254–56
Nature of Bread Honestly and Dishonestly Made, The (Manning), 80
Neill, Charles P., 198–99
Nepal, food adulteration rate in, 318
Nestlé, 316
Nestle, Marion, 167–68, 241, 308, 326
Neville, Ella Hoes, 166
New Foods Panel (U.S.), 234–35, 239, 241
New Patriotic Imperial and National Light and Heat Company, 8
New York City: London, comparison to, 156; pasteurized milk sold at low-cost depots in, 163; the swill milk scandal, 154–63; trans fats banned from restaurants in, 300
New York Evening Post: complaints about the “poison squad” experiments, 187; rhyme on food adulteration, 152
New York Times: business support for the Pure Food law, 203; on the butter-margarine conflict, 172; Kessler on the new labelling system, 276; swill milk, report on, 156, 159–61
New Zealand, butcher’s false claim of “certified organic” in, 311
Nicholson, William, 11, 41
Nixon, Philip, 307
Nixon, Richard, 234
Norda International, 230, 254
Normandy, Alphonse, 110
Northampton Herald, poisoning reported in, 115
NutraSweet, 245–47
Nutrition Education, study of iron deficiency in children, 234
nutritionists, as scaremongers, 299
Nutrition Labelling and Education Act, 274
oatmeal, adulterated, 107
oenology, 60–61
Offa (Saxon king), 65
oleomargarine. See margarine
Oleomargarine Act of 1886, 173–74, 222
olive oil, detecting fraud in, 290
Oliver, Jamie, 220, 270
olives, labelling of, 278–79
Olney, John, 244
100 000 000 Guinea Pigs (Kallet and Schlink), 224–25, 325
orange juice, detecting adulteration in, 291
oranges, reduced nutrients in, 303–4
Orfila, Mathieu Joseph Bonaventure, 55
organic food: genetically modified crops as threat to, 304; health benefits of, 308; pesticide residues avoided in, 305, 308; problems of, 309–10; standards for, disagreements over and dilution of, 310–11; swindles and free range fraud associated with, 311–12
organoleptic approach to food testing, 16–17, 289
orthorexia, 309–10
Orwell, George, 213–14, 266, 285
O’Shaughnessy, W. B., 113–14, 126
Our Grandmothers’ Recipes (Percy), 219
Paddock, Algernon S., 153, 178
Pakistan: Basmati rice grown in, 295 (see also Basmati rice); risk from iodine deficiency in, 235
Palmer, Thomas W., 169, 172–73
Paltrow, Gwyneth, 311
Papworth, John, 41
Paracelsus, xi
Parker, Robert, 62, 89
Parmentier, Antoine-Augustin, 44, 73
pasta, adulteration of durum wheat, 292
Pasteur, Louis, 60
Patent and Trademark Office, U.S. Department of Commerce, 202
Patten, Marguerite, 222
Peanut Spred, 223
pear drops, 252
pearnana flavour, 249
Peck, William, 14
pectin, 223
Penrose, John, 57
pepper: adulteration of, 31; prestige and use of, 90; purchase of adulterated, 132–33
pepperers, guild of, 90–91
Percy, Lady Algernon, 219
perfume industry, 250
Périgord truffles, 282–83
Pesier natrometer, 118
pesticides: GM farming and, 305; residues in food, dangers of, 307–8; squeamishness about aesthetic adulteration and increased usage of, 307
Phillips, Rod, 47
Philosophical Magazine, solving the mystery of blue tea, 18
phlogiston, 15–16
phylloxera, 60
pickles, copper used in making, 25–26
Piers Plowman (Langland), 85–86
pigs, Corsican, 285–86
pigweed, 75–76
Pillsbury Farina, 238
Pitt, William, the Elder, 79
Pitt, William, the Younger, 14, 36
Planck, Nina, 310
Platt, Sir Hugh, 59, 74–75
Pliny the Elder, 50–51, 90
poison, dosage and, xi
Poison Detected or Frightful Truths (Markham), 79–80, 82, 85
“poison squad,” Wiley’s experiments on the, 183–89
Poitou, colic of, 52–53
polariscope, 176
polymerase chain reaction (PCR), 293–94
poor, the: discovery of hunger in the U.S. among, 234; food adulteration aimed at, 101–7; health of, impact of adulterated food on the, 106–7; infant mortality among, 158; margarine associated with, 169
Popular Science Monthly, Wiley on products from corn, 177
Postgate, John, 136, 143
potatoes: natural poisons in, 269–70; survey of using DNA analysis, 291–92
powdered substitute foods, 220
Practical Treatise on Gas-Light (Accum), 8–9
preservatives: benzoates, 189, 204–9; new and old-fashioned, distinction between, 180–81; specious logic supporting, 270; Wiley’s campaign against, 181–89
processed foods: additives in, 229–33; “golden age” of in the United States, 228; Red Dyes no. 2 and 40 in, 264–65. See also synthetic food
processing aids, 301–2
prosecutions: of Accum, 40–42; for beer adulteration, 37–38; for tea adulteration, 32–33
Protected Designation of Origin (PDO), 285
protected origin foods, 60–62, 283–86
Prussia, law against food fraud, 111
public health: infant mortality and quality of milk, connection between, 156, 158; the Lancet’s campaign for, 124–32; shifting opinion in Victorian Britain regarding, 128–29
Public Health Act of 1875 (Britain), 200
publicity: impact of anti-adulteration, 1–6, 115–17; The Jungle, impact of, 190–99; the Lancet’s public health campaign, 124–32; transforming bad into good, commerce based on, 141–45. See also advertising and advertisers
Punch: on the demon grocer, 96–97; on Hassall’s microscopical analysis of London water, 130–31; on t
he lozenge scandal, 140
Pure Food and Drugs Act of 1906 (U.S.), 154, 189–90, 201–3, 206, 223, 305
Pure Food Company, The, 149–50, 310
pure food movement: Heinz as supporter of, 206–7; moral absolutism of, 165–67; temperance movement, association with, 165; Wiley and, 179 (see also Wiley, Harvey Washington)
purity: of American way of life, the swill milk scandal and erosion of faith in, 155; as approach to food swindling, strength and weakness of, 323–24; consumer awareness regarding, 204; organic food and the search for, 309–10 (see also organic food); preservatives vs. sugar and the problem of, 209; the Pure Food and Drugs Act used as a warranty for, 202–4 (see also Heinz tomato ketchup); replacement of the goal of unadulterated food by, 147, 149–51; science and industrial packaged goods in response to calls for, 150–51; Wiley’s definition of, 201–2
Pyke, Magnus, 250
Quaker Oats, 226
quality of food: adulteration (see adulteration); bread vs. wine over time, opposing trajectories of, 46–49 (see also bread; wine); deterioration of American after the Civil War, 152–53; government regulation and, Britain and France compared regarding, 110–15; improvement in British beginning in the 1880s, 146–47; medieval quality controls, 89–93; purity as a marketing device, 143–45, 202–4 (see also Heinz tomato ketchup); purity as the new goal, 147, 149–51 (see also pure food movement; purity); testing for (see testing of food); trade guilds and, 85–89
Quantitative Ingredient Declarations (QUIDs), 276
Quebec, law regarding uncolored margarine in, 168
Raffald, Elizabeth, 25–26
Ralston-Purina Company, 234
Ramazzini Foundation, 246
raspberries: fl avourists’ fixation on, 255–56; trifle with or without real, 268–69
Redding, Cyrus, 59, 62, 85
Red Dyes no. 2 and 40, 264–65
Reeve, Ella, 198
Reimer, Karl, 259
retsina, 51
Revalenta Arabica, 134–36
Reynolds, James Bronson, 198–99
Reynolds, John Hamilton, 42
rice: Basmati (See Basmati rice); golden, 304
Richard II (king of England), 66
Richard I (king of England), 65
Robinson, James, 133
Robinson, Jancis, 62
Rome, wines in ancient, 51–52
Roosevelt, Eleanor, 224
Roosevelt, Franklin Delano, 224–25
Roosevelt, Theodore: beef and the Beef Trust, concerns regarding, 195–97; Beveridge bill, opinion of, 200; cartoon depiction of, 198; impact of The Jungle on, 195–97; Sinclair and, 197–200; Wiley and, 189, 210–11
Royal Institution, 40–41
Rumford, Count Benjamin Thompson, 23–24, 43
Rumohr, Karl Friedrich, 11
Rumsfeld, Donald, 246–47
Russell, Charles Edward, 196
Russia, famine “breads” in, 75–76
Sabine, R. H., 254
saccharin: banning of, 245; cyclamate, compared to, 243; Wiley vs. Roosevelt regarding, 211
Sachs, Jeffrey, 322
“safe and suitable” ingredients, 233
saffron, 281–82
Sainsbury’s, 247
Salad Bouquet, 223
Sale of Food and Drugs Act of 1875, 146
salicylic acid, 180
salt, fortified with iodine, 235
scallops, injected with water, 288
scaremongering. See food frauds/panics/ scares
Schlatter, James, 244
Schlink, F. J., 224–25
Schlosser, Eric, 252–53, 261
Scholefield, William, 136–37, 139, 143
Scotland, Ministry of Health, vitamin poisoning of children addressed by, 237
Searle, G. B., 243–46
seawater, as an additive to wine, 51
seller-beware, let the: in contemporary food culture, 95–96; dangers of, 150–51; replacement of buyer beware in the Adulteration Act of 1860, 137
Sicilian wine, 56
Silliman, Benjamin, 14
Simmonds, Peter L., 109
Sinclair, Upton: Beveridge bill, opinion of, 200; The Jungle, 190–99, 305, 324; Nader’s self-comparison to, 261; Roosevelt and, 197–200
Singer, Peter, 310
slimming foods: aspartame, 244–47; cyclamates as, 242–44; obesity and, 242; saccharine, 211, 243; transformation of ersatz foods into consumer desirables, 247–48
sloe leaves, 31–32
Smart, Charles, 164
Smith, Andrew, 208
Smith, James, 1
Smollett, Tobias, 5, 84
snoek, 221
Soil Association, 308, 310
Somers, Ira, 229, 231
“Song Against Grocers” (Chesterton), 97–98, 147
“Song of the Pizen Squad” (Gillian), 185
soup making, 21
South Africa, adulteration by a wine producer in, 62–63
Southwark and Vauxhall Water Company, 130–31
Spain, protected origin system in, 285
Spanish-American War of 1898, 181–82
spectroscopy, 291
Spencer, Colin, 219, 221
Spice & Flavour, 257–58
spices: adulteration of, 99, 164; cinnamon, adulteration of, 128, 164; pepper, 31, 90, 132–33; saffron, 281–82; spicers and garblers, enforcement of standards by, 90–93
spirits: gin, 58–59; whiskey rectifiers and the Pure Food bill, 203
Spurlock, Morgan, 183
Sri Lanka, food adulteration rate in, 318–19
Starbucks, cut backs in trans fats, 300
Stevenson & Howell, 248–49
Stieb, Ernst, xiii
Straus, Nathan, 163
strawberry milk shake, artificial vs. natural ingredients of, 252–53
sucralose, 247
Sudan 1 affair, 299
sugar: adulteration of in the United States, 164; brown, Hassall’s discovery of mites in, 123–24; health risks of eating too much, 209–10; in ketchup, 204, 209; sand added to, 98–99, 123; Wiley’s analyses of, 176–78
Sullivan, Louis, 274
Sun, the, on the Surrey Curry scandal, 279
SunnyFranks frankfurters, 237
Supersize Me, 183
Supreme Court, U.S., imitation food, rulings regarding, 227–28
Surrey Curry scandal, 279
Surrey Institution, 12
sweeteners: aspartame, 244–47; cyclamate, 242–44; Miraculin, 245, 251; narangin, 245; saccharin, 211, 243, 245; sucralose, 247; sugar (see sugar)
Sweet’N Low, 245
sweets (candy, confections, and sweetmeats): artificial flavours in, 251–52; color adulteration, 27–28, 113–14; poisonings from, 28, 115; regulation and quality of, Britain and France compared regarding, 113–15
swindling and swindlers: Accum as, 40–45; Accum’s examples of, 27–28, 30–33; commercial advantage from awareness of, 141–45; common experience of, xi; contemporary, 272–73; deception by flavourists, 258–61; fighting, approaches to, 322–27; food fortification as, 237; food technology as enabling, 262; gourmet foods and, 280–86; governments’ concerns regarding, xiii; greed as the motivation for, xii–xiii, 4, 27, 85–86, 164, 316, 322; hucksters, hawkers, and costermongers, 102–6; labelling as answer to (see labelling); legalized consumer fraud, 266–71; low bid for supplying institutional food and, 107; margarine as, 169, 172; the medieval food police as guards against, 89–93; organic food and, 311–12; publicity, impact of, 116–17; tea, adulteration of, 31–33; tolerance of in Britain, 107–15 (see also buyer beware, let the; laissez-faire); trademarks/branded goods and, 202. See also adulteration
Switzerland, regulation of sweets in, 113
synthetic food: additives, health dangers from a diet laced with, 265–66; additives used in processed foods in the United States, 229–33; chemical feast, Nader’s attack on, 261–63; famine food as forerunner of, 215 (see also famine foods); flavourings and, 248–61; fortified f
oods, 235–41; imitation foods in the United States, 222–28; as legalized consumer fraud, Walker’s campaign against, 266–71; mock foods, 218–20; new standards in the U.S. called for to promote, 234–35; opposition of consumer groups to, 261–66; Orwell on, 213–14; postwar British attitude regarding, 222; processed foods, the golden age of in the United States, 228; slimming/diet foods, 241–47; transformation of ersatz foods into consumer desirables, 247–48; in wartime and interwar Germany, 214–18; in wartime Britain, 213–14, 218–22. See also ersatz food
Synthetic Food (Pyke), 250
System of Theoretical and Practical Chemistry (Accum), 15
Tab, 233, 245
Tatler, on wine “brewers,” 55–56
tea: adulteration of, 31–33, 146–47; blue, solving the mystery of, 18; import duties and the adulteration of, 35–36
temperance women, belief in abstinence from compromised or artificial foods, 165–66
Terry, Josephine, 220
testing of food: Accum’s Treatise as guide to, 18–19; basmati rice, DNA analysis of, 292–98; chemical analysis, developments in, 117–19; cream, addition of thickeners to, 17; DNA analysis, 291–92; gas chromatography, 252, 290; isotopes, 290–91; microscope, using a, 119–24, 289–90 (see also Hassall, Arthur Hill); in the Middle Ages, 89–93; modern food forensics, tools of, 289–92 (see also Food Standards Agency (FSA)); organoleptic approach to, 16–17, 289; sweets, 113–14; tests for lead in wine, development of, 55; wine quality, chemical additives and the problem of, 60
Than Nien News, the Chinese fake egg story, 314
thermolampes, 7
“They’ll Never Look the Same” (Dockstader), 188
thiamine, 236
Thomas, David, 304
Thomas, John R., 171
Thurber, James, 153
Tilda Basmati rice, 293, 296
Time, on Kessler’s vision of labelling, 274
Times, The: on Accum’s prosecution, 41; fake tea scandals, response to, 35–36; on food adulteration, 94; on Hassall’s discovery of coffee adulteration, 123
tomatoes, genetic modification of, 304
trade guilds, 85–93
trademarks, 201–2
trans fats, 299–301
Treatise on Adulterations of Food, and Culinary Poisons, A (Accum), 1–6, 16–20, 25, 27–28, 42–43, 55, 116
Treatise on the Falsification of Food and the Chemical Means Employed to Detect Them (Mitchell), 117
truffles, Périgord, 282–83
Trumper, Geo. F., 78
Tryon, Thomas, 78
Tudor crisps, 257
Tuomy, Michael, 161–62
Turner, James, 246
turtle soup, mock, 218–19
Twain, Mark, 170