The Language of Food: A Linguist Reads the Menu
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Acknowledgments
This book has been surprisingly many years in the making and would never have been written without the support of many people. I am very happy to thank my incredible agent Howard Yoon, who encouraged me to write this book many years ago and kept on providing smart, calm guidance; my editor, the fabulous Maria Guarnaschelli, for her editing, wise advice, generosity, and contagious enthusiasm, my superb copy editor Carol Rose, and the rest of the fantastic team at Norton, including editorial assistant Mitchell Kohles, publicity director Louise Brockett, designer Cassandra Pappas, production manager Anna Oler, and managing editor Nancy Palmquist; Stanford University for supporting me on the sabbatical and Stanford’s Center for Advanced Study in the Behavioral Sciences for further support and for providing an intellectual home during the writing, along with the support of the wonderful staff there, particularly librarians Tricia Soto and Amanda Thomas; Eric and Elaine Hahn, who offered the use of their lovely house during other parts of the writing; the remarkable young students over the years who have taken my Stanford freshman linguistics seminar, The Language of Food, especially my collaborator Josh Freedman, who in addition to our joint work described in Chapter 8 read the manuscript and gave suggestions throughout; my amazing cousin and role model, sociologist Ron Breiger, who besides other advice pointed out the work of Andre Gunder Frank; Stephanie Shih for suggesting that I look at the history of macaroons and flour; Chia-Wei Woo, then running the Hong Kong University of Science and Technology, who first pointed out the Chinese origins of ketchup; my Mom and Dad for their support (and for the always wise editing suggestions of Dad, still an eagle-eyed reader in his nineties); John McWhorter, Lera Boroditsky, and Erin Dare for superb advice and suggestions throughout the project.
Some of the chapters grew out of pieces I wrote for Slate, Gastronomica, and the Stanford Magazine, where I am very lucky to have had great editors: Laura Anderson, Daniel Engber, Ginny McCormick, and especially Darra Goldstein and Juliet Lapidos.
Finally of course, this book would not have been possible without the ideas, edits, suggestions, and support of my wife, Janet.
Many people over the years gave me advice and ideas, answered questions, suggested resources or people, and spotted flaws; thanks to Alan Adler at Aron Streit, Inc., KT Albiston, Domenica Alioto, Mike Anderson, Mike Bauer, Pete Beatty, Leslie Berlin, Jay Bordeleau, Jason Brenier, Ramón Cáceres, Marine Carpuat, Alex Caviness, John Caviness, Victor Chahuneau, Karen Cheng, Paula Chesley, Fia Chiu, Shirley Chiu, Anna Colquohoun, Alana Conner, Erin Dare, Melody Dye, Penny Eckert, Paul Ehrlich, Eric Enderton, Jeannette Ferrary, Shannon Finch, Frank Flynn, Thomas Frank, Cynthia Gordon, Sam Gosling, Sara Grace Rimensnyder, Elaine Hahn, Eric Hahn, Lauren Hall-Lew, Ben Hemmens, Allan Horwitz, Chu-Ren Huang, Calvin Jan, Kim Keeton, Dacher Keltner, Faye Kleeman, Sarah Klein, Scott Klemmer, Steven Kosslyn, Robin Lakoff, Joshua Landy, Rachel Laudan, Adrienne Lehrer, Jure Leskovec, Beth Levin, Daniel Levitan, Mark Liberman, Martha Lincoln, Alon Lischinsky, Doris Loh, Jean Ma, Bill MacCartney, Michael Macovski, Madeleine Mahoney, Victor Mair, Pilar Manchón, Jim Martin, Katie Martin, Linda Martin, Jim Mayfield, Julian McAuley, Dan McFarland, Joe Menn, Lise Menn, Bob Moore, Petra Moser, Rob Munro, Steven Ngain, Carl Nolte, Lis Norcliffe, Barry O’Neill, Debra Pacio Yves Peirsman, James Pennebaker, Charles Perry, Erica Peters, Steven Pinker, Christopher Potts, Matt Purver, Michael Ramscar, Terry Regier, Cecilia Ridgeway, Sara Robinson, Deborah Ross at The Manischewitz Company, Kevin Sayama, Tyler Schnoebelen, Amin Sepehri, Ken Shan, Noah Smith, Peter Smith, Rebecca Starr, Mark Steedman, Janice Ta, Deborah Tannen, Paul Taylor, Peter Todd, Marisa Vigilante, Rob Voigt, Dora Wang, Linda Waugh, Bonnie Webber, Robb Willer, Dekai Wu, Mei Hing Yee, Courtney Young, Linda Yu, Samantha Zee, Katja Zelljadt, Daniel Ziblatt, and Arnold Zwicky.
Image Credits
Image © The British Library Board. 1037.g.9, f.415
Image courtesy of the New York Public Library
Library of Congress image LC-USZ62-58235
Image courtesy Department of Special Collections, Stanford University Libraries
Image courtesy Cambridge University Press
Image courtesy Department of Special Collections, Stanford University Libraries
Image courtesy Florence, The Biblioteca Medicea Laurenziana, ms. Med. Palat. 218, c. 312v. On concession of the Ministry for Goods, Cultural Activities and Tourism. Further reproduction by any means is prohibited.
Image courtesy Werner Wittersheim.
Image courtesy Department of Special Collections, Stanford University Libraries
Image © Bettmann/Corbis
Image courtesy the Yale Babylonian Collection
Image courtesy Matthias Süßen
Image courtesy The Emily Dickinson Collection, Amherst College Archives & Special Collections
Image courtesy of The Lewis Walpole Library, Yale University
Image Courtesy Janet Yu and Mr. and Mrs. Miscellaneous
Image © The British Library Board 1037.g.9, f.415
Image courtesy Bayerische Staatsbibliothek München, Signatur: 4 Oecon. 1550 m
Index
Page numbers listed correspond to the print edition of this book. You can use your device’s search function to locate particular terms in the text.
Page numbers in italics refer to illustrations.
Page numbers beginning with 191 refer to notes.
Abbasid Dynasty, 12, 38–40, 131
Abd-al-rahman II, 173
Account of the Trade in India, An (Lockyer), 57–59, 58
acetic acid, 40, 47
Adamson, Melitta, 42
adjectives, as linguistic status clues, 17–18
Adrià, Ferran, 177
advertising techniques, 5, 159, 189
customized for target audiences, 114–15
for junk foods, 108–16, 118
TV, 103
Africa, culinary contributions from, 84, 91, 157
African American food, 91, 143
Aga stove, sales manual for, 114–15
Agirre, Eneko, 188
Agra, 152–53
Ahn, Y. Y., 182
Ain-I-Akbari, 153, 206
Akbar the Great, Mughal Emperor, 152–53, 152
Akkadians, 72–73, 76, 122
à la Française, 25–26
al-Andalus, 173–74
à l’Anglaise, 25
à la Russe, 26, 28
Albala, Ken, 177
ale, see beer, ale
alembic, 75, 75
Alembic, 77
Alioto’s, 30
Allen, Robert C., 61
almonds, almond paste, 131–34, 135, 136–37, 139, 140, 141, 142, 143
amaretti, 139
America:
culinary contributions of, 25, 26
global culinary influence on, 49, 59, 91
New World cultural blending in, 43–44, 79–83, 88–91
slave trade in, 91, 128, 157
see also United States
American Cookery (Simmons), 89, 147
anchovies, 53–54, 60
Andalusia, 4, 89, 136, 147, 173–174, 194
Anglo-Saxon language, 118–19
Anna Karenina (Tolstoy), 96
Anne of Austria, 138
Anne of the Island (Montgomery), 95
>
Antwerp, as trading and financial hub, 84–86
Antwerp Bourse, 85, 85
Apicius, 124, 127
Appert, Nicolas, 128
appetizer course, 21, 23–25, 30
Arabs: