97 Orchard
Page 27
picnics, 44-45
regional loyalties, 21-22
relish of food, 37
restaurants, 37-42
saloons, 34
seasonal food traditions, 24-25
social clubs, 42-45
Germany, corned beef in, 77-78
Germany, nineteenth century, 21
Germany, regional food traditions, 22
gifts, food, 152-157
Glockner children, 2, 4
Glockner family, xi, 6, 8-9, 41, 45
Glockner, Caroline, 4
Glockner, Edward, 4
Glockner, Lucas:
arrival in New York, 3
as property owner, 4, 5, 7
as tailor, 4
builds 97 Orchard, 7
census records of, 2, 4
life, 2-9
Glockner, Wihelmina:
life, 2, 4
food shopping, 13-14, 19
Glockner, William, 4
golkes (potato dumplings), 109
goose fat, 113, 117
goose products, delicatessen, 168
goose, Jewish farms, 112-117
goose-farmers, Jewish, xiii
goose-feeding, 112
Graham, Reverend Sylvester, 178
Grand Street public market, 14
Grant, Madison, 192
Great Depression, 199
Great Famine, 59, 60
“Great Hunger” in Ireland, 59
The Great Metropolis (Junius Henry Browne), 15
Greeley, Horace, 72
grocery stores:
German, 13-14
Italian, 194, 222, 223
Grossinger, Jennie, 151-152
“growlers” (pails of beer), 34
Gumpertz children, 84
Gumpertz family, xi
Gumpertz, Julius, 84-85, 103-104
Gumpertz, Natalie (Reinsberg), 6, 83-85, 93, 101-104, 123-124
ham, Jews and, 99
hamburgers, 37, 41
Hanrahan, Jane Moore, 65
Hanrahan, Roger Joseph, 65
Hanukkah, 113
Harland, Henry, 121
Harlem, 205-206
harvest rituals, sauerkraut, 24
hasenpfeffer (wild rabbit stew), recipe, 10-11
hash, 70-71
Haskalah (Jewish Enlightenment), 95-96
Hebrew Immigrant Aid Society (HIAS), 135-136
Hebrew Sheltering Guardian Society, 101
Hebrew Union College, 98, 100
Heinz, Henry J., 25
Henry Street Settlement, 154, 163
herrings, 19
herring salad, recipe, 19-20
Herzfeld, Elsa, 154
Hester Street market, 85-86, 106
holidays, Italian, 204
Home Relief, 199
home workers, tenement, 202
horseradish, 87, 92
hot dogs, 22, 169
hotel dining rooms, New York, 79-80
Houdini, Harry, 147
Housekeeper and Healthkeeper (Miss Beecher), 70
housewives:
and domestic science movement, 160-161
and servants, 53-54
at pushcart markets, 142-142
Irish-American, 62-63
Jewish, 106-107, 112-117
meat riot, 178-179
How the Other Half Lives (Jacob Riis), 34
How to Feed the Family (New York Board of Health), 162-163
Howells, William Dean, 38
Hungarian Jews, 172-174
hunger:
Italy, 195
United States, 61
Hungering for America (Hasia Diner), 59
Hungry Hearts (Anzia Yezierska), 120
Hurst, Fannie, 104-105, 181
illegal immigration, 197
immigrant boardinghouses, 66-70
immigrant children:
and Americanization, 165-166
and school lunchrooms, 165-166
cooking classes, 163-165
immigrant cooks, pressure to Americanize, 163
immigrant eating habits, health-care workers and, 149-151
immigrant foods, introduced to Americans, xiv immigrant identity, and food, 82
immigrant jobs, 55
immigrant meals, Ellis Island, 127
immigrant population, New York, 48
immigrant women, as candy workers, 201-204
“immigrant’s kit,” 50
immigrants:
and Home Relief, 199
assimilation of, xi
cooking classes for, 161-165
culinary ingenuity of, xii
first food in the United States, 127
food networks of, xiii
German, and herring, 19
illegal, 197
in American food jobs, 55-56
in steerage, 48-50
Irish, in New York, 59-60
Irish, loneliness of, 52
Irish, poverty, 61
Italian, 187-188
Lower East Side, 2
names for United States, 207
Northern Italian, 184-185
preservation of food customs, xii
shedding of Old World identities, xi-xii
Southern Italian, 185
table etiquette, 126
treatment at Ellis Island, 131-132
use food to establish collective identity, 59
immigration:
and nativists, 192
Irish, 48-52, 50-51
Italian, 184-185
peak, 125
restrictions on, 192
rise of, 5
International Jewish Cookbook, 92-93
Ireland:
corned beef in, 78
famine, 48
food exports, 57-58
land confiscation, 56
landlord system, 56-57
population, 48
potato blight, 49
Irish boardinghouses, 67-70
Irish cooking, plainness of, 60
Irish dairy foods, 56, 57
Irish diet:
in America, 61-62
seventeenth century, 57
sixteenth century, 56
Irish famines, 59
Irish immigrants:
and sugar, 63
letters, 51-52
United States, 48-52
and pigs, 113-114
arrival at Castle Garden, 63-64, 66-67
in American food industry, 27, 55-56
meat consumption, 63
culinary traditions, 59
poverty, 61
women, 51-55
The Irish in America, 66-67
Irish peasants, 50
Irish servants, 52-55
Irish Times, 63
Irish waiters, 72, 74
Irish whiskey, 59
“island of tears” (Ellis Island), 131
Italian bread peddlers, 208-209
Italian Christmas dinner, 226-227
The Italian Cook Book, 206-207
Italian families:
culture, 194-195
supper, 195-196, 200
Italian grocery stores, 222-223
Italian holidays, 200
Italian immigrants:
and bread, 207-212
and hunger, 195
and Italian ingredients, 194
and meat, 196-197
and salads, 215
as seen by New Yorkers, 220-221
biases against, 187-189, 193
dangerous jobs, 187-188
devotion to culinary heritage, 193
home gardens, 216
resistance to Americanization, 193-194
seasonal foods, 216-217
Italian immigration:
and poverty, 187-188
sex ratio, 185
United States, 184-185
Italian laborers, foods, 186-187, 190
Italian peppers, 216-217
Italian pushcart markets, 213-215
Italian rag-pickers, 188-191
>
Italian sweets, 200
Italian truck farms, 216
Italian Women in Industry, 201
Italian women:
as foragers, 215-216
candy workers, 201-204
food scavengers, 190-191
vegetable peddlers, 214-215
Italianate design, 97 Orchard Street, 6
Jefferson Market, 15
Jennie June’s American Cookery Book (J. C. Croly), 75-76
Jewish American Cook Book (Regina Frishwasser), 146-147
Jewish children:
and delicatessens, 169-170
and pickles, 150-151
Jewish cookery:
importance of fat, 111-113
strong flavors, 110
Jewish cooks, and Crisco, 118
Jewish culture, sacredness of food, 119
Jewish delicatessens, 166-171
Jewish dinners, 119
Jewish food-joy, 119-122
Jewish goose farms, 112-117
Jewish holiday foods, 95, 156
Jewish housewives, food knowledge, 95
Jewish immigrants:
and kashruth, 133-138
as salad eaters, 147
food preferences, 139-140
food sharing, 155-157
forbidden foods, 95-101
hunger of, 133-135
inspection at Ellis Island, 136
meat consumption, 177
peddlers, 143-144
survival rations, 133-134
Jewish men, abandonment of families, 104
Jewish New Yorkers, move Uptown, 120-122
Jewish restaurants, Lower East Side, 170-175
Jews:
and gefilte fish, 87-88
Ashkenazi, 88-91
dispersal from Lower East Side, 180-181
East Prussian, 93-94
Europe, migrations, 89
food memories of, 181
fruit consumption, 147-149
German, 83-124
immigration, 132-134
love of soup, 145-147
Romanian, 171-172
Sephardic, 98
Uptown, food cravings, 181
Jiggs (comic strip character), 81
jobs, immigrant, 55
Johnson Reed Act, 165, 192
junk dealers, 189
kashruth (Jewish dietary law), 88, 95, 98, 99, 133-138, 162
Kazin, Alfred, 169
Kellogg, John Harvey, 178
kibitzing, at cafés, 174-175
King Gambrinus, 27
“kitchen” (seasoning for potatoes), 58-59, 108
kitchens:
boardinghouse, 69
German-Jewish, 96
institutional, 79
tenement, xii
Kittredge, Mabel, 163-164
Kleindeutschland (“Little Germany”):
bakeries in, 28
beer in, 33-34
enclaves, 21, 22
New York, 2, 66, 99
restaurants, 41-42
sauerkraut in, 24
signs, 27
social clubs, 42-43
wards, 21
“knish alley” (Second Avenue), 177
knishes, xiv, 176-177
Kohl, Johann, 57, 58
kosher food, see kashruth kosher dining room, Ellis Island, 135-140
kosher meat, 168-170
kosher poultry trade, 115-116
Kramer, Bertha, 97
kranzkuchen (German coffee cake), recipe, 31
krauthobblers (“cabbage-shavers”), xiii, 24
krupnik (bean soup), recipe, 146-147
kuchen (German cakes), 30
kugel, 107, 109, 156
La Guardia, Mayor, and pushcarts, 214
Labor Exchange, 53
landladies, boardinghouse, 69-70
landlord system in Ireland, 56-57
landlords:
biases against Italians, 192-193
profit from immigration, 5
landsmanschaften (German social clubs), 22
lard, 111
latkes, 110, 111
Leavitt’s Café, 175
Lemcke, Gesine, 10-11, 13
Leonard, Leah, 87
letters, Irish immigrant, 51-52, 61
Little Hungary, 172-174
Little Italy:
grocery stores, 194
holiday displays, 204
regions of Italy in, 221-222
renovations in, 223
restaurants, 220-224
seasonal foods, 216-217
social clubs, 221
Lower East Side:
as marketplace, 2
as microcosm of American food revolution, xv
chicken market, 117
Civil War, 1
dairy restaurants, 177-180
density, 183
depopulation, 183-184
description, 20-21
ethnic groups, 2
food businesses, 2, 152, 180-181
immigrants, 2
knish parlors, 176-177
poor, 23
poultry farms, 114-117
pushcarts, 145
reformers in, 22-23
restaurants, 170-175
Romanian quarter, 171-172
Russian Jews in, 123-124
settlement houses, 160-165
smells, 23-24
typical dwellings, 1
Luchow’s, 40-41
lunch rooms:
German, 36-37
New York, 79
lunch stand, Ellis Island, 127, 134,
lunch, German, 8
Luska, Sidney, see Harland, Henry
Lustig’s Restaurant, 94-95
Lynch, Matthew, 78
macaroni, 218
MacManus, Seamus, 60
Maggie (comic strip character), 81
Maguire, John Francis, 66-67
Mangione, Jerre, 196, 207, 209
The Market Assistant (Thomas De Voe), 17
The Market Book (Thomas De Voe), 17
markets: