The Art of Blending: Stories and Recipes from La Boîte's Spice Journey
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roasted leg of lamb
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split-pea soup
Recipe from Michelle Bernstein, Michy’s, Miami
Although she’s known for her Latin cooking, Michelle is fascinated with Middle Eastern cuisine. The Tangier N.23 spice blend is very floral and equal parts sweet and savory. I love how it allows vegetables to truly shine in this vibrant dish, proving that vegetarian food doesn’t need to be boring.
INGREDIENTS
MAKES 8 TO 10 SERVINGS
1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil, divided
One 16-ounce box Israeli couscous
4 cups vegetable or chicken stock
Fine sea salt and freshly ground pepper
1 bunch medium asparagus, trimmed
1 cup (about 4 ounces) haricots verts or green beans, trimmed
1 large zucchini, cut into 1/2-inch slices
1 tablespoon plus 11/2 teaspoons Tangier N.23 spice blend
1 cup Brussels sprouts, thinly shaved
5 large or 7 medium dates, pitted and cut into small dice
3 oranges, segmented and cut into 1/4-inch pieces
1/4 cup marcona almonds
1/4 cup plus 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
2 tablespoons coarsely chopped mint
2 tablespoons coarsely chopped dill
2 tablespoons coarsely chopped basil
1/4 cup coarsely chopped Italian parsley
8 ounces feta cheese, crumbled
INSTRUCTIONS
In a medium saucepan, heat 1⁄4 cup of the oil. Add the couscous and toast over low heat until lightly browned, about 4 minutes. Stir in the stock. Season with salt and pepper, bring to a simmer, cover and cook over low heat, stirring once or twice, until the couscous is tender, about 8 minutes. Transfer to a large bowl.
Prepare a medium-hot grill or heat a grill pan over medium-high heat. In a mixing bowl, toss the asparagus, haricots verts and zucchini with 3 tablespoons of the oil, 1 tablespoon of Tangier spice blend and a pinch of salt and pepper. Grill the vegetables, turning once, until crisp-tender. (You can grill the vegetables all at once over a grill or individually on a grill pan). Transfer to a cutting board and, when cool enough to handle, cut the asparagus into thirds, the haricots verts in half and the zucchini into 1⁄2-inch chunks.
Add the Brussels sprouts and grilled vegetables to the bowl with the couscous. Add the dates, oranges, almonds, lemon juice, herbs, the remaining tablespoon of oil and the remaining 11⁄2 teaspoons of Tangier and toss gently. Adjust the seasoning, sprinkle with the feta cheese and serve cold or at room temperature.
COQUELICOT Named after the wild corn poppy flower, Coquelicot N.24 blends blue poppy seed, mustard seed and lemon for an uncommon introduction to an underrated ingredient. People rarely consider the sweet, nutty taste of these tiny poppy seeds and that civilizations across the globe have used them for centuries. In Eastern Europe, they’re ground into a paste for pastries such as hamantaschen and strudel. In the Ukraine, they’re boiled in water and soaked in milk overnight to make poppy-seed cake. In India, they’re dry-fried, ground and used in korma, a type of curry. My blend was created as a last- minute addition to fish in a restaurant where I worked. We dipped and coated small pieces of salmon and hamachi in the seed mixture and served them in a sashimi-like preparation as an hors d’oeuvre.
Recipe Ideas
-1- Sauté shrimp, add a splash of white wine and heavy cream and sprinkle with Coquelicot to make a pan sauce.
-2- Toss cooked penne with olive oil, Coquelicot and sliced zucchini and serve as a cold pasta salad.
-3- Blend with honey and drizzle over Pecorino-Romano or another aged sheep’s-milk cheese.
Also great with
dijon vinaigrette
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sautéed sugar snap peas
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fruit salad
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ramen noodles
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pancake batter
Recipe from Brad Farmerie, PUBLIC and Saxon + Parole, New York City
Brad says that when he first cracked open a jar of Coquelicot N.24 spice blend, it reminded him of an “everything bagel,” both in appearance and smell. He wanted to develop a recipe in which he could infuse these flavors into his favorite bagel topping: cured salmon. That’s how “Everything Salmon” was born. I like to slather toasted flatbread with homemade labneh as the perfect vehicle for this delicately spiced salmon.
INGREDIENTS
MAKES 8 TO 10 SERVINGS
1 side of salmon (with skin; about 3 pounds), pin bones removed
1/2 cup sugar
1/2 cup kosher salt
1/2 cup Coquelicot N.24 spice blend, divided
2 bunches parsley, coarsely chopped (4 cups)
3 medium shallots thinly sliced (2 cups)
1 jalapeño pepper, seeded and finely chopped
3 tablespoons fennel seeds, toasted
INSTRUCTIONS
With a paring knife, make 1/2-inch-deep slits in the salmon skin about every 3 inches. Cut the salmon into 2 pieces about two-thirds of the way down the salmon fillet (the skinnier portion will cure more quickly). Place the salmon, skin side down, on a rimmed baking sheet.
In a bowl, combine the sugar and salt. Spread 1⁄2 cup of the mixture evenly over both sides of the salmon. Sprinkle the flesh side of the salmon with 1⁄4 cup of Coquelicot spice blend.
In a bowl, combine the remaining 1⁄2 cup of the sugar and salt mixture with the herbs, shallots, jalapeño and fennel seeds and let stand for 15 minutes, then pack the mixture all over the flesh side of both pieces of salmon to form a crust. Place the fish on a wire rack on top of a baking tray, cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate. As the salmon cures, liquid will be drawn out of the fish. Once a day, baste the salmon with the juice that has collected at the bottom of the tray. The smaller tail piece will be cured in 2 days, and the larger piece will take about 4 days.
When the salmon has been cured, remove and discard the herb crust. Briefly rinse under cold water and pat dry with paper towels. Sprinkle the remaining 1⁄4 cup of Coquelicot onto the flesh side of the fish, pressing gently to pack it onto the fish. Cover with plastic wrap until ready to serve.
To serve, use a sharp knife to cut the salmon into thin slices on the bias. Serve on flatbread, toast or bagels spread with labneh or cream cheese.
ESCABECHE I created this blend for a hotel in Florida that wanted to make an authentic escabeche, a marinated-seafood preparation common in Mediterranean cooking. Typically, fish is marinated in an acidic mixture of citrus or vinegar and fresh herbs, then fried or poached. Drawing from this flavor profile, I incorporated lemon, fennel and two kinds of coriander (the more well-known Moroccan seed and the citrusy Indian Dhania variety) to replicate the ingredients that would be present in the traditional version. The ironic thing is, I don’t think anyone uses this blend for escabeche anymore. Instead, they broil or grill fish with it, add it to duck, rice and even braised beans. It’s a reminder that cooking is a creative process, and every chef or home cook makes his or her own contribution to the grand design.
Recipe Ideas
-1- Warm 1 tsp Escabeche with 1 cup of olive oil and use to slow-poach salmon or tuna.
-2- Combine with Pernod and lemon juice and use to braise thinly sliced fennel.
-3- Rub Escabeche all over a pork shoulder or pork roast and bake until very tender.
Also great with
grilled lamb chops
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spinach-and-cheese omelets
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sausage-and-pepper stew
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baked salmon
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collard greens
Recipe from Jeremy Flowers, New York City
My chef friend Jeremy likes to add his own twist to classic dishes such as this cod brandade. Instead of buying salted cod, he gives fresh fish a quick cure, which lets h
im infuse the cod with the citrusy flavors of my Escabeche spice blend. I only wish that you could have Jeremy in your kitchen when you prepare this recipe; he’d show you the real meaning of the “joy of cooking.”
INGREDIENTS
MAKES 10 APPETIZER SERVINGS
One 12-ounce skinless cod fillet, pin bones removed
1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon Escabeche N.25 spice blend
2 tablespoons kosher salt
1/2 pound Yukon Gold potatoes
3 garlic cloves plus 1 tablespoon chopped garlic
1 cup dry white wine
3 cups water
1 cup coarsely chopped onion
6 thyme sprigs
1 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest, plus 1 lemon, halved
2 teaspoons chopped parsley
2 teaspoons chopped chives
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
Freshly ground black pepper
Toasted baguette slices, for serving
INSTRUCTIONS
In a bowl, mix 1⁄4 cup of the Escabeche spice blend with the salt. Set aside 2 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon of the mixture. Spread the remaining amount all over both sides of the fish, place the fish in a nonreactive metal tray or glass baking pan and cover tightly with plastic wrap. Refrigerate for 5 hours.
In a saucepan, cover the potatoes, garlic cloves and 1 tablespoon of the reserved Escabeche-salt mixture with water so that the water extends above the ingredients by an inch. Bring to a boil, lower the heat to medium and cook until the potatoes are tender. Drain, reserving the garlic, then peel the potatoes. In a bowl, mash the potatoes and garlic together with a fork.
Place the wine, water, onion, chopped garlic, thyme, halved lemon and 1 tablespoon of Escabeche-salt mixture in a pot large enough to hold the fish. Bring to a boil, lower the heat and simmer for 15 minutes. Rinse the cured cod. Bring the poaching liquid to a boil, add the fish, turn off the heat and let cook for 5 minutes.
Remove the fish from the poaching liquid and add to the potatoes. Flake the fish apart with a fork and mix together with the potatoes. Stir in the lemon zest, parsley, chives and remaining 1 teaspoon of Escabeche-salt mixture. Stir in the olive oil and season to taste with pepper. Spoon the brandade over the toasted bread and serve.
BORNEO Inspired by the island where the long pepper originates, this blend highlights the complexity of Southeast Asian cuisine specifically found on this large island. Borneo is divided among three countries—Brunei, Indonesia and Malaysia—and its culinary identity is derived from each country’s unique culture. Just as the local cuisine offers more than just one influence, the long pepper offers much more than simply a component of heat. It’s toned down with surprising hints of clove, nutmeg and vanilla. Borneo N.26, in which the long pepper is combined with mace and sweet-scented floral elements, is as diverse as the island it pays tribute to and it’s a wonderful addition to anything from oatmeal to ceviche and seafood-based soups.
Recipe Ideas
-1- Combine 2 cups of lemonade with 2 tbsp cachaça and 2 tsp Borneo and freeze in a metal baking pan, stirring occasionally with a fork, until slushy.
-2- Sprinkle over fresh berries and granola and serve with milk or yogurt.
-3- Whisk Borneo with olive oil, orange juice and lemon juice to taste. Add diced fish, red onions and marinate for 10 minutes.
Also great with
pan-seared pork chops
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strawberry salad
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crab bisque
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oatmeal
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seared scallops
Recipe from Jeff Bell and Jim Meehan, PDT, New York City
I love challenging Jeff and Jim to use my spice blends in their inventive cocktails. Borneo N.26 showcases the floral, sweet and peppery notes of the long pepper. It has hints of clove, vanilla and nutmeg in it, which pair beautifully with the dark rum, plum-flavored gin and the sugared rim.
INGREDIENTS
MAKES 1 DRINK
1 teaspoon demerara sugar
1/2 teaspoon Borneo N.26 spice blend, divided
13/4 ounces golden rum, preferably Banks Golden Age
3/4 ounce plum brandy, preferably Clear Creek
1/2 ounce Averell Damson Gin Liqueur or sloe gin
3/4 ounce fresh lime juice
1/4 Martinique cane syrup
INSTRUCTIONS
In a small bowl, combine the sugar and 1⁄4 teaspoon of the Borneo. Wet the rim of a chilled cocktail glass and coat it with the spiced sugar.
In a cocktail shaker, combine the remaining 1⁄4 teaspoon of Borneo with the rum, plum brandy, gin liqueur, lemon juice and cane syrup. Fill the shaker with ice, shake well, strain through a fine-mesh strainer into the prepared glass and serve.
CHIOS I had a jar of mastika for two years and never knew what to do with it. So many ingredients such as this are neglected and put aside, so I wanted to come up with a new way to showcase what the Greeks have used for many years. Mastika, a tree resin that’s harvested like maple syrup, grows almost exclusively on the island of Chios. Seeking a way to harness its piney scent, I explored its history for inspiration. The result was this herbaceous blend of oregano, fennel, tarragon, basil and a powdered form of mastika—a blend that reflects the flavors of Greek and Mediterranean cuisine. Ideal for baking whole fish, grilling lamb, poultry and seafood dishes, Chios N.27 sets the example for what may come with a little experimentation in the kitchen.
Recipe Ideas
-1- Toss with cubed bread, olive oil and salt and bake in a 350° oven until golden brown.
-2- Blend with watermelon and cucumber for a quick gazpacho.
-3- Combine cooked baby potatoes with Chios, yogurt and chopped dill. Serve warm or chilled.
Also great with
whole baked red snapper
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stuffed leg of lamb
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tomato and feta salad
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mushroom frittata
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grilled asparagus
Recipe from Alan Wong, Alan Wong’s Restaurant, Honolulu
I’m fascinated with the way Alan combines the essence of Japanese, American and Hawaiian cuisine at his eponymous restaurant. My Chios N.27 spice blend, which is comprised solely of herbs, lends a fresh flavor to both the poaching liquid for the shrimp and the creamy tartar-like sauce, which Alan makes by combining a French béarnaise reduction with Japanese sake and Greek yogurt. What a small world we live in!
INGREDIENTS
MAKES 6 APPETIZER SERVINGS
3 cups water
1 cup white wine
1⁄3 cup fresh lemon juice
2 tablespoons kosher salt
1 cup chopped onion
3/4 cup chopped celery
2 garlic cloves, halved, plus 11/2 teaspoons finely chopped garlic
3 tablespoons Chios N.27 spice blend, divided
1/2 cup rice wine vinegar
1/4 cup sake
3 tablespoons finely chopped shallot
1 cup plain Greek yogurt
1 tablespoon chopped capers
1 tablespoon chopped tarragon
Salt and freshly ground pepper
11/2 pounds fresh large Gulf shrimp, peeled and deveined
INSTRUCTIONS
Make the poaching liquid: In a large saucepan, bring the water, wine, lemon juice, salt, onion, celery, halved garlic and 1 tablespoon of Chios spice blend to a boil. Reduce the heat to low and simmer for 8 minutes. Set aside.
Make the yogurt sauce: In a small saucepan, bring the rice wine vinegar, sake, shallot and remaining 2 tablespoons of Chios to a boil. Lower the heat and simmer until about 1⁄3 cup of liquid remains, about 10 minutes. Transfer to a mixing bowl and let cool. Stir in the yogurt, capers, tarragon and chopped garlic. Season to taste with salt and pepper and refrigerate until ready to use.
Bring the poaching liquid to a boil and add the shrimp. Cook until the shrimp are cooked through, about 3 to 4 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the shrimp to a platter and serve with the yogurt sauce.
VADOUVAN While working at Daniel Boulud’s restaurant in New York, a young sous chef would tell me stories about vadouvan curry. Created by the French who occupied Southeast Asia, Vadouvan N.28 features partially sweet and partially dry notes that are more approachable and friendly than those that people usually associate with curry. Large chunks of toasted onions and a selection of spices are blended into a coarse, sweet-savory composition that works well in an array of dishes that stray far from the curry’s Asian roots. In response to that sous chef, I developed what would later be nicknamed my “four-star blend” for its contribution to the restaurant’s proud rating. I’m especially attached to this spice mixture because of the work that goes into it, and particularly proud that it’s a part of the legacy I left behind at Daniel.