The Art of Blending: Stories and Recipes from La Boîte's Spice Journey
Page 8
Recipe Ideas
-1- Stir into olive oil or melted butter and drizzle over popcorn, then sprinkle with more Vadouvan.
-2- Combine 1 tsp Vadouvan per cup of brine for pickling.
-3- Purée with cooked carrots and orange juice.
Also great with
roasted monkfish
* * *
chicken satay
* * *
butternut squash soup
* * *
lentil salad
* * *
braised endive
Recipe from Jean Francois Bruel and Eddy Leroux, Restaurant Daniel, New York City
I created my Vadouvan spice blend for Daniel Boulud many years ago. It is always exciting to see what new uses the chefs at Daniel have for it as time goes by. Jean Francois and Eddy created this Parmentier (France’s version of shepherd’s pie), which draws from the French-Indian influence of the Vadouvan N.28 blend.
INGREDIENTS
MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS
13 medium Idaho potatoes (4 pounds), peeled and diced
5 sprigs thyme
3 garlic cloves, peeled and halved, plus 1 tablespoon chopped garlic
Salt
10 tablespoons unsalted butter, diced
Freshly ground pepper
3 tablespoons olive oil, plus more for the casserole
11/2 cups finely chopped onion
5 ounces baby spinach
1 pound ground lamb (preferably shoulder meat)
3 tablespoons Vadouvan N.28 spice blend
1 teaspoon red pepper flakes
1/2 cup finely grated Parmesan cheese
INSTRUCTIONS
Make the potatoes: Place the potatoes, thyme and halved garlic in a stockpot and cover with water. Add a pinch of salt, bring to a simmer and cook until tender. Drain the potatoes and discard the thyme, then pass the potatoes through a food mill or mash until smooth. Stir in the butter and season to taste with salt and pepper.
Heat 3 tablespoons of olive oil in a skillet. Add the onion and chopped garlic and cook over medium-high heat until the onion is translucent, about 5 minutes. Add the spinach, lamb, Vadouvan spice blend and red pepper flakes and cook, stirring frequently, until the lamb is cooked through, about 6 minutes. Season to taste with salt.
Preheat the oven to 325° and grease a casserole or 8-by-12-inch baking dish with olive oil. Spread half of the mashed potatoes on the bottom of the dish. Top with the lamb mixture and spread into an even layer. Add the remaining mashed potatoes and smooth the top with a spatula.
Sprinkle the top of the potato pie with the Parmesan and bake for 25 minutes. Turn on the broiler and broil the potato pie until the top is golden brown, about 5 minutes. Serve immediately.
APOLLONIA When I met Apollonia Poilâne, I was immediately impressed by the beautiful way she runs her family bakery in Paris. She is a third-generation owner, following in the footsteps of her father, whom I had the honor of meeting years ago, and her grandfather, who opened it in the 1930s. They were originally known for baking big sourdough loaves, which they shipped all over France; Poilâne has since become the most famous bakery in the city. Apollonia told me stories of her experiences as a member of the exclusive Club des Croqueurs de Chocolat, which gathers for tastings regularly. The night I met her, I went home with insatiable thoughts of chocolate. The next day, I made Apollonia a blend of cocoa powder and orange blossom. The flower of an orange has intense notes of honey and clove, and pairing them with chocolate makes perfect sense. Surprisingly, most people now use this blend in savory dishes such as roast duck, but it’s also in the French-style gingerbread Apollonia sells at her bakery.
Recipe Ideas
-1- Toss cubed kabocha squash with vegetable oil, Apollonia and a splash of sherry vinegar. Bake in a 350° oven until tender.
-2- Whisk 1/3 cup cider vinegar with 2/3 cup grapeseed oil and 1 tsp Apollonia and use to dress shrimp and spinach salad.
-3- Coat guinea hens with vegetable oil, sprinkle with Apollonia and roast.
Also great with
mole sauce
* * *
braised short ribs
* * *
chocolate brownies
* * *
roasted pineapple slices
* * *
hot chocolate
Recipe from Apollonia Poilâne, Poilâne Bakery, Paris
Although she’s known for making some of the world’s best bread, Apollonia chose to demonstrate a savory use for this blend. After all, cocoa powder is a key ingredient in many Mexican dishes and French game dishes. The richness of the cocoa in my Apollonia N.29 spice blend is nicely balanced by the acidity of the orange blossom; it’s a combination that also works surprisingly well with seafood.
INGREDIENTS
MAKES 6 TO 8 APPETIZER SERVINGS
1/4 cup olive oil
2 medium white onions, finely chopped (2 cups)
Salt and freshly ground pepper
11/2 pounds ground lamb
2 large eggs, beaten
11/2 cups diced crustless sourdough bread
1 tablespoon chopped candied orange peel
1⁄3 cup finely chopped blanched almonds
1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon Apollonia N.29 spice blend, divided
11/2 cups all-purpose flour
1⁄3 cup vegetable oil
1 tablespoon grapeseed oil
1 teaspoon sherry vinegar
8 ounces baby spinach leaves
INSTRUCTIONS
In a skillet, heat the olive oil. Add the onions, season with salt and pepper and cook over medium-low heat until lightly browned, about 8 minutes. Transfer to a plate and let cool.
In a large bowl, combine the lamb with the eggs, bread, orange peel, almonds and 1 tablespoon of Apollonia spice blend; season with salt and pepper. Add the onions and mix well.
Roll the mixture into 1-inch balls (about 30 meatballs). Place the flour in a bowl. Roll each meatball in flour and pat off the excess flour.
Heat the vegetable oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the meatballs and cook until browned all over and cooked through, about 10 to 15 minutes.
While the meatballs cook, whisk together the grapeseed oil, vinegar and remaining teaspoon of Apollonia in a large bowl. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Add the baby spinach and toss to coat. Serve the meatballs with the spinach salad.
MOUSA My father, Moshe, was born into a European family, but he’s always been drawn to Mediterranean and North African cuisines. In turn, I became familiar with them at a young age. When a chef asked me to re-create a Moroccan paste called chermoula in a dry-spice blend, I immediately thought of my father, and decided that his nickname, Mousa, was the perfect domain for my N.30 blend. This combination of onions, saffron and parsley made it onto our Thanksgiving turkey a few years ago. Considering all the ingredients, it was an obvious choice. All the way from North Africa, where they never make turkey for the holidays, Mousa N.30 has fittingly has become part of many American family traditions.
Recipe Ideas
-1- Blend with red wine vinegar, olive oil and salt for a chimichurri-like dressing for grilled meat.
-2- Sprinkle over fresh sardines before grilling.
-3- Whisk Mousa into béchamel sauce and use for macaroni and cheese.
Also great with
roast turkey
* * *
béarnaise sauce
* * *
lamb meatballs
* * *
potato-leek soup
* * *
sautéed gnocchi
Recipe from Helen Park, New York City
I have known Helen for 10 years, and we shared many hours in the kitchen at Daniel. Entertaining is a big part of her life, and this simple, one-dish preparation is perfect for a crowd. My Mousa spice blend was originally created with seafood in mind, but its onions, saffron and parsley work surpris
ingly well with meat cooked on or off the grill.
INGREDIENTS
MAKES 8 SERVINGS
1/2 lemon, cut into small wedges and seeded
1 orange, cut in small wedges and seeded
1 cup thinly sliced celery
2 cups thinly sliced onion
2 teaspoons thinly sliced garlic
2 pounds Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled and diced
2 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon salt
1⁄3 cup Mousa N.30 spice blend
2 racks (about 4 pounds each) baby back ribs
INSTRUCTIONS
Preheat the oven to 350°. In a bowl, toss the lemon, orange, celery, onion, garlic and potatoes with 1 tablespoon of the salt and 3 tablespoons of Mousa spice blend. Spread the mixture on two pieces of aluminum foil placed over a rimmed baking sheet, each large enough to fold over the ribs.
Combine the remaining 4 teaspoons of salt and 3 tablespoons of Mousa and rub all over the ribs. Place the ribs on top of the potato mixture. Fold the foil over the ribs and close tightly.
Bake the ribs for 1 hour and 15 minutes. Open the foil and bake for 15 minutes longer or until the meat easily pulls away from the bone.
Transfer the potato mixture to a plate. Cut the racks into ribs and place over the vegetables. Squeeze some of the roasted citrus over the top and serve.
PENANG During my research for the Vadouvan N.28 blend, I became interested in all forms of curry. My reading brought me to Malaysia and the way local cooks make red-curry paste with fresh chiles, herbs and garlic and use it to add depth to meats and stews. Quite different than the yellow curry most cooks are familiar with, my milder version—Penang N.31—gets its flavor from sweet chiles and onions. Capturing the essence of red-curry paste in a jar, this blend offers cooks the opportunity to re-create the authentic version with just a few sprinkles of finely ground powder. Traditionally, the blend is used for braised meats and rich sauces, but it can also be added in small amounts to dishes such as broiled fish or vegetables while still conjuring up all of the complexity of a classic curry.
Recipe Ideas
-1- Combine 1 tbsp Penang with 1 cup quinoa and use to stuff tomatoes before baking.
-2- Blend with olive oil and use as a marinade for grilled whole squid. Serve as an appetizer with aioli.
-3- Simmer root beer, maple syrup and Penang until reduced and use as a glaze for chicken or pork.
Also great with
steamed mussels
* * *
roasted veal chops
* * *
bean cassoulet
* * *
ratatouille
* * *
pulled pork
Recipe from Ari Weiswasser, Glenn Ellen Star, Napa, California
Ari and I worked side by side at Daniel. Since then, he’s followed his passion for local produce and simple food to Napa Valley. This recipe shows the versatility of the curry-inspired Penang spice blend: Its sweet chiles pair well with the ricotta in the gnudi, which make a great dish on their own if you don’t feel like making the soup.
INGREDIENTS
MAKES 8 SERVINGS
11⁄3 cups all-purpose or 00 flour, plus more for the baking sheet
4 cups whole-milk ricotta
1 egg, lightly beaten
2 tablespoons Penang N.31 spice blend, divided
1 cup finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese
Salt and freshly ground pepper
4 cups water
4 cups shucked English peas
2⁄3 cup chicken stock
4 cups frozen peas
1/4 cup mascarpone
2 tablespoons sugar
2 tablespoons thinly sliced mint leaves
4 tablespoons unsalted butter
INSTRUCTIONS
Make the gnudi: Dust the bottom of a rimmed baking sheet with flour. In the bowl of a standing mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, combine the ricotta, egg, 1 tablespoon of the Penang spice blend, 1⁄4 cup of the Parmigiano-Reggiano and 1⁄2 teaspoon each salt and pepper. Beat at medium speed until well combined, about 30 seconds. Add the 11⁄3 cups flour and beat until just combined. Using wet hands, form the mixture into golf ball–size pieces and transfer to the floured baking sheet (you’ll make about 40 gnudi). Refrigerate for at least 30 minutes.
Make the soup: In a saucepan, bring the 4 cups of water to a boil. Turn off the heat, add the remaining 3⁄4 cup Parmigiano-Reggiano and let steep for 30 minutes.
Bring a large saucepan of salted water to a boil. Blanch the fresh peas until tender, about 2 minutes (leave the water in the pot). Using a mesh strainer, transfer the peas to a blender and add the Parmigiano stock and frozen peas. Purée until smooth and pass through a fine-mesh strainer into a saucepan. Bring the soup to a simmer and add the mascarpone, sugar and mint. Blend with an immersion blender until frothy and season to taste with salt and pepper.
Return the pot of water to a boil. Blanch a few gnudi at a time until they float, 1 to 2 minutes, then transfer to a plate with a slotted spoon. Repeat until all the gnudi have been cooked.
In a large skillet, melt the butter and add the chicken stock and the remaining tablespoon of Penang and bring to a simmer. Add the gnudi and cook over medium-high heat, turning once, for about 1 minute per side.
Divide the soup and gnudi among bowls, placing the gnudi in or on top of the soup. Serve immediately.
SIAM After my time at Daniel, I had an incredible learning experience while working with a Thai chef. He was using sweet and spicy coconut curries, intense fish sauces and pungent shrimp pastes that, when combined with even the most modest ingredients, brought a bold sophistication to his food. He also used green herbs such as cilantro and kaffir lime leaves to add fresh, earthy notes and brilliant colors. Combining cilantro and kaffir-lime leaves with seafood essence to make Siam N.32 is my way of capturing these flavors and colors in a dry form instead of a fresh paste. Just a teaspoon mixed into any kind of stock produces a wonderfully fragrant broth, seafood stew or braising liquid. Siam N.32 is a reflection of Thai cuisine, with its sharp notes and the commanding way it makes a statement from the very first moment you confront it.
Recipe Ideas
-1- Toss with shredded green papaya and lime juice for a quick Thai salad.
-2- Simmer coconut milk with Siam and use to braise shrimp. Garnish with chopped cilantro.
-3- Combine with cooked soba noodles, soy sauce and sesame oil for a cold noodle salad.
Also great with
crab cakes
* * *
asparagus risotto
* * *
fish stew
* * *
braised eggplant
* * *
pork stew
Recipe from Zak Pelaccio, Fatty Crab and Fatty ‘Cue, New York City
When I think of Zak, I think of amazing food and rock and roll music. His dynamic South Asian cuisine is remarkable. Meat, spices and vegetables are his equivalent to the holy trio of bass, drums and guitar. My Siam N.32 spice blend provides an ideal way to apply the flavors of green curry beyond the soup pot, as with this roast duck.
INGREDIENTS
MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS
1 whole Pekin duck (also called Long Island duck), about 41/2 pounds
1 cup light soy sauce
1 cup fish sauce
2 tablespoons, plus 5 teaspoons Siam N.32 spice blend
2 quarts water
1/2 cup white wine vinegar
1 jalapeño pepper, seeded and finely chopped
1 tablespoon chopped garlic
5 teaspoons fine sea salt
1/4 cup pure maple syrup
24 scallions or spring onions, roots trimmed
White rice, for serving
INSTRUCTIONS
If you have time, place the duck on a wire rack and refrigerate overnight to air dry.
In a stockpot, bring t
he soy sauce, fish sauce, 2 tablespoons of the Siam spice blend and the water to a boil. Tie a string around the wings of the duck and dunk it into the boiling water, holding onto the end of the string while you blanch the duck in the hot liquid. After 1 minute, turn off the heat and let the duck sit in the hot bath for another 5 minutes. Gently pull the duck out of the liquid and let it cool at room temperature for 3 minutes, then return it to the rack and refrigerate, uncovered, overnight.