The Art of Blending: Stories and Recipes from La Boîte's Spice Journey
Page 9
In a bowl, whisk the vinegar with the jalapeño and garlic. Cover and refrigerate overnight.
The next day, combine the salt and remaining 5 teaspoons of Siam in a small bowl. Remove the duck from the refrigerator and rub it, inside and out, with the salt and spice blend. Combine any leftover spice blend with the maple syrup in a bowl and set aside.
Preheat the oven to 350°. Place the duck in a roasting pan and roast for 45 minutes, basting it every 15 minutes with any accumulated juices. After 45 minutes, add the scallions to the pan and toss them with the juices. Brush the duck with the maple-spice glaze. Bake for 45 minutes longer, brushing the duck with maple glaze and tossing the scallions every 15 minutes.
Transfer the duck to a cutting board and let it rest for 15 minutes. Carve the duck and serve with the scallions, white rice and jalapeño-infused vinegar.
MISHMISH Mishmish means apricot in Hebrew, but you won’t find any in this blend. It was made for chef Raphael Haasz when he was the pastry chef at Café Boulud and urged me to create something for an apricot dessert. He roasted the fruit and served it with ice cream rolled in Mishmish N.33 to develop a crispy, crunchy texture. Although I rarely add sugar to my spices, here I use crystallized honey for sweetness, along with saffron for color and lemon for a tart, sour element—all of which combine to make a delightfully addictive blend. You don’t have to apply heat to enjoy it: You can add it to yogurt for breakfast, sprinkle it over fresh fruit or use it to rim a margarita glass. It easily dissolves in unsweetened lemonade and hot or cold tea for a refreshing twist.
Recipe Ideas
-1- Whisk lime juice, vegetable oil, chopped scallion and Mishmish to taste and use as a dressing for lobster salad.
-2- Mix to taste with equal parts wheat beer and lemonade for a refreshing shandy.
-3- Blend with milk and vanilla ice cream for milkshakes.
Also great with
yogurt parfait
* * *
margaritas
* * *
berries and ice cream
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chicken fajitas
* * *
beef carpaccio
Recipe from Maura Kilpatrick, Sofra Bakery, Cambridge, Massachusetts
This recipe is more than a clever play on words. I think Maura is a magician, because she can turn any fun treat into a serious dessert. Her marshmallows—loaded with the Mishmish blend’s honey, saffron and lemon flavors—are surprisingly easy to make. And once you taste the difference between homemade and store-bought, you’ll remember how much you love marshmallows.
INGREDIENTS
MAKES ABOUT 3 DOZEN MARSHMALLOWS
1 cup cold water
3 envelopes unflavored powdered gelatin
1 cup sugar
1/2 cup light corn syrup
1 cup mild honey
2 tablespoons Mishmish N.33 spice blend
3/4 cup cornstarch
3/4 cup confectioners’ sugar, plus more for coating the marshmallows
INSTRUCTIONS
Lightly spray a 9-by-13-inch baking pan with nonstick cooking spray. Line the pan with plastic wrap, leaving enough excess to fold over the surface of the finished marshmallows. Lightly spray the plastic as well.
Combine 1⁄2 cup of the cold water and gelatin in the bowl of an electric standing mixer fitted with a whisk. Let the gelatin bloom while you prepare the sugar syrup.
In medium saucepan, combine the sugar, corn syrup, honey and the remaining 1⁄2 cup of water. Stir until the sugar is dissolved. Cook the syrup over medium heat until the temperature on a candy thermometer reaches 240°.
With the mixer at low speed, slowly pour the sugar syrup into the bowl of dissolved gelatin. Increase the speed to high and beat until the mixture becomes thick, white and fluffy, about 15 minutes. When it is thick, reduce the mixing speed and add 1 tablespoon of the Mishmish spice blend.
Lightly spray a rubber spatula with cooking spray and scoop the marshmallow mixture into the prepared pan, smoothing the surface. Cover with plastic wrap and let sit at room temperature until firm, about 3 to 4 hours.
In a bowl, whisk together the cornstarch, confectioners’ sugar and the remaining tablespoon of Mishmish.
Dust a cutting board lightly with confectioners’ sugar. Invert the pan onto the board. Using a warm, wet knife, cut the marshmallow into 1-by-1-inch squares. Toss each square in the Mishmish–confectioners’ sugar mixture. Store in an airtight container for up to a week.
ORCHIDEA Orchid root and Szechuan pepper are not an obvious match. In Turkey, the former is ground into a starchy powder to use in salep, a hot, milk-based drink, or frozen into dandurma, a sweet toffee-like ice cream that’s stretched with long paddles. Szechuan pepper brings a natural numbness to the tongue, blocking certain flavor profiles and enhancing others. (To see what I mean, try chewing on a little bit and then drinking unsweetened tea.) My intention was to combine these two disparate ingredients, along with lime, for the cook who is eager to experiment with an interesting ice cream or custard. When you consider orchid root and Szechuan pepper’s common sharp, floral notes, you can begin to imagine the possibilities.
Recipe Ideas
-1- Whip heavy cream with sugar and a few pinches of Orchidea. Serve with berries sprinkled with more spice blend.
-2- Melt butter in a skillet and sprinkle with Orchidea. Season scallops with salt and Orchidea and cook in the butter.
-3- Sprinkle over just-baked shortbread cookies.
Also great with
sticky rice
* * *
potato soup
* * *
panna cotta
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celery root purée
* * *
oatmeal
Recipe from Sherry Yard, Wolfgang Puck restaurants
Sherry’s desserts always inspire me: She shows that some recipes never go out of style. This easy crumble can be served hot or at room temperature and can be made using a variety of berries, which are enhanced by the floral orchid root and zippy Szechuan peppercorns in the Orchidea spice blend.
INGREDIENTS
MAKES 8 SERVINGS
Topping
13/4 cups all-purpose flour
11⁄3 cups ground blanched almonds
13/4 cups confectioners’ sugar
1/4 cup granulated sugar
1/4 cup light brown sugar
1/2 teaspoon salt
3 tablespoons N.34 Orchidea spice blend
2 sticks cold unsalted butter, diced
Filling
2 pounds fresh blackberries, raspberries or blueberries or a combination (about 7 cups)
1/2 cup cold water
1 cup granulated sugar
3/4 cup light brown sugar
1/2 cup all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon finely grated lime zest
1 tablespoon N.34 Orchidea spice blend
1 tablespoon fresh lime juice
Vanilla ice cream, for serving
INSTRUCTIONS
Make the topping: In the bowl of a standing mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, combine the flour, ground almonds, sugars, salt and 3 tablespoons of the Orchidea spice blend; beat at low speed until combined. Add the butter and beat until the mixture forms 1⁄4-inch pebbles, about 4 minutes.
Preheat the oven to 350° and line a rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper or a Silpat mat. Spread the topping on the baking sheet and bake for 8 minutes. Using a spatula, stir the crumble, then bake for 3 minutes longer. Continue baking, stirring the crumble every 3 minutes or so, until golden brown, about 20 minutes total. Remove from the oven and let cool to room temperature. (The crumble can be made a day ahead and stored in an airtight container at room temperature. Any extra can be used for other desserts or sprinkled on top of yogurt.)
Make the filling: In a blender, combine 3 cups of berries and 1⁄4 cup of the cold water and blend until
smooth.
In a medium saucepan, whisk together the sugars, flour, lime zest and the tablespoon of Orchidea. Whisk in the blackberry purée and remaining 1⁄4 cup of water. Bring to a boil over medium heat and cook the mixture, whisking, for 1 minute. Add the remaining 4 cups of blackberries, reduce the heat to low and cook for 1 minute. Remove from the heat and stir in the lime juice. Whisk the mixture for 1 minute, until it thickens slightly.
Divide the berry mixture among eight 6-ounce ramekins, filling them about three-quarters full, or place in a 9-by-12-inch baking dish. Top with the crumble and serve with ice cream.
ARARAT An ode to the common ground shared by Armenia and Turkey—the snow-peaked mountain range that rules the sky between them—this blend is the product of a dialogue with the Boston-based chef Ana Sortun. Having spent time studying the rich flavors of southeastern Turkey, she hoped to find a spice mixture for fish that mimicked the smokiness of bastirma (air-dried beef ). It’s another great example of how spices can create distinct sensations, such as transforming seafood into something as substantial as a meat dish. Blending fenugreek leaves and seeds (which are bitter with a slight oniony scent) with smoked paprika and the Urfa chile (with its hints of chocolate) to create Ararat N.35 is my small attempt to mend the historical discord between Armenia and Turkey through their shared cuisine.
Recipe Ideas
-1- Warm olive oil and a pinch of Ararat in a skillet and use to fry eggs.
-2- Toss halved Brussels sprouts with olive oil and Ararat. Roast until deeply browned.
-3- Toss deep-fried chicken wings with red wine vinegar and Ararat.
Also great with
bolognese sauce
* * *
chicken skewers
* * *
seafood paella
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baby back ribs
* * *
bloody marys
Recipe from Marc Forgione, Restaurant Marc Forgione, New York City
Marc is constantly searching for fun ways to combine his love for classic French classic cuisine with traditional American products and dishes. This recipe does just that: Freshly shucked oysters and béchamel are boosted by bacon, barbecue sauce and the deeply smoky flavors of my Ararat spice blend. It’s a dish that Marc has been serving since the day he opened his restaurant.
INGREDIENTS
MAKES 4 APPETIZER SERVINGS
4 thin slices bacon
1/2 stick unsalted butter, diced
1 red bell pepper, finely diced
1 jalapeño, seeded and finely diced
1/2 red onion, finely diced
2 tablespoons Ararat N.35 spice blend, plus more for garnish
1/4 cup all-purpose flour
11/2 cups whole milk
Salt and freshly ground pepper
2 tablespoons chopped parsley
2 tablespoons chopped chives
1/4 cup pepper jack cheese
1 dozen oysters, on the half shell
1/4 cup prepared barbecue sauce
Cilantro leaves and lime wedges, for garnish
INSTRUCTIONS
Preheat the oven to 350° and line a rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper. Add the bacon and bake until crispy, about 15 to 20 minutes. Transfer the bacon to paper towels to drain, then very finely chop the bacon and set aside on paper towels. Keep warm.
In a saucepan, melt the butter. Add the bell pepper, jalapeño and onion and cook over medium heat until soft, about 3 to 4 minutes. Stir in the Ararat and flour and cook, stirring, for 1 minute. Slowly whisk in the milk, bring to a simmer and cook over low heat, stirring frequently, until you can’t taste the flour and the sauce is thickened, about 8 minutes.
Season the sauce to taste with salt and pepper. Fold in the parsley and chives, then the cheese. Let the béchamel cool to room temperature, about 20 minutes. (The béchamel can be made up to a day ahead and refrigerated. Let it warm to room temperature for 30 minutes before using.)
Preheat the broiler. Place a wire rack over a rimmed baking sheet and arrange the oysters on the rack. Spoon about 1 tablespoon of béchamel over each oyster and brush each with 1 teaspoon of barbecue sauce. Broil the oysters until the sauce is bubbling, about 4 to 5 minutes.
Sprinkle each oyster with bacon powder and a small pinch of Ararat. Garnish with cilantro leaves and serve with lime wedges.
ANA In my first conversation with chef Ana Sortun, it became apparent that it was one of those rare instances of connecting with someone immediately. Ana has written a spice book of her own, and the idea of two spice experts teaming up on a blend wasn’t obvious. However, both of us share a genuine passion for Middle Eastern cuisine and techniques, and it was clear we could create something extraordinary. As a surprise, I sent her a blend simply labeled “A.” It was an aromatic mixture of rose petals, Urfa chiles, sumac and sesame seeds, which later became my Ana N.36 blend. After we worked together on a James Beard Foundation’s spice-themed dinner, I discovered the blend in Ana’s rice pilaf with angel-hair pasta, which was spiced, wrapped in phyllo dough and baked in a terrine. It completely showcased what Turkish cuisine is about.
Recipe Ideas
-1- Sauté halved fresh figs in melted butter with a generous pinch of Ana and a splash of balsamic vinegar.
-2- Add a few pinches of Ana to orange or grapefruit marmalade as it cooks.
-3- Blend with fresh ricotta and olive oil and serve with grilled sourdough bread.
Also great with
beef tartare
* * *
green bean salad
* * *
shortbread cookies
* * *
greek salad
* * *
roasted baby carrots
Recipe from Ana Sortun, Oleana and Sofra, Cambridge, Massachusetts
Ana, who’s published her own book about spices, is my (spice) partner in crime. Her deeply personal and highly comforting style of cooking is beautifully translated in this recipe: What seems to be a simple rice dish is a memorable meal filled with toasted nuts and my Ana N.36 spice blend’s sesame and rose flavors.
INGREDIENTS
MAKES 6 MAIN-COURSE OR 8 APPETIZER SERVINGS
5 tablespoons unsalted butter
1/2 cup crushed vermicelli noodles
1 cup jasmine rice
3/4 cup cooked green wheat (freekah) or coarse bulgur wheat
1 cup finely chopped onion
3/4 cup finely chopped dried apricots or figs
1/2 cup lightly toasted pistachios or pine nuts, coarsely chopped
2 tablespoons Ana N.36 spice blend
8 ounces frozen phyllo dough
Extra-virgin olive oil
Salt and freshly ground pepper
INSTRUCTIONS
Make the brown butter: Melt the butter in a small saucepan over low heat while stirring with a wooden spoon. Bring the butter to a simmer and cook until it turns golden brown and smells nutty, about 6 to 8 minutes; be careful not to let the butter burn. Pass the brown butter through a fine-mesh strainer and set aside.
Preheat the oven to 375°. Spread the noodles on a baking sheet and toast in the oven until golden brown, about 8 to 12 minutes. Remove from the oven and set aside.
Bring 8 cups of water to a boil and add the rice. Simmer until the rice is tender, stirring occasionally, about 12 to 14 minutes. Drain in a fine-mesh sieve and set aside.
Meanwhile, heat 2 tablespoons of the brown butter in a skillet. Add the onion and cook over low heat, stirring, until soft, about 8 minutes. Stir in 1 tablespoon of the Ana spice blend with the apricots, nuts and roasted vermicelli. Add 13⁄4 cups of water, bring to a simmer and cook for 10 minutes or until the noodles have absorbed all the liquid and are al dente. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
In a large mixing bowl, combine the onion mixture with the rice, wheat and remaining tablespoon of Ana, being careful not to break up the rice.
Add the remaining brown butter and season to taste with salt and pepper.
Brush a 9-inch cake pan with olive oil or spray with nonstick cooking spray. Take a large piece of phyllo dough, then lightly brush one side of it with olive oil and fold the phyllo in half lengthwise. (Keep the phyllo between sheets of damp paper towels to prevent it from drying out.) Place one end of the dough in the center of the pan and press the dough up and around the sides, leaving about 4 to 5 inches of overhang for covering the top. Working around the pan in a circle, repeat with more phyllo until the pan is completely covered (you’ll need about 5 sheets of dough).