The Art of Blending: Stories and Recipes from La Boîte's Spice Journey
Page 10
Fill the pan with the rice mixture, then fold the phyllo over the top. Brush with olive oil to help form a seal. Bake for 40 minutes or until golden brown. Remove from the oven, invert the pilaf onto a platter, slice into wedges and serve hot.
IZAK My maternal grandfather, who was born in Tunisia, would occasionally treat me to the spicy, North African desert cuisine that was a staple of his upbringing. Growing up in a Jewish-European home, I developed a love for the rich flavors of cumin, red chile pepper and coriander at a young age. Although it’s been years since my grandfather passed away, those aromatic ingredients have stayed close to me. When Daniel Boulud asked me to execute a Tunisian menu for an event, I remembered the fresh chiles, garlic and pepper that make up harissa, and I was excited by the challenge of reproducing those flavors in a dried form. Izak N.37, with its sweet red chiles in place of hot peppers, allows cooks to incorporate harissa into couscous or lamb stew without adding any heat.
Recipe Ideas
-1- Toss with diced sushi-grade tuna and serve as part of a Niçoise salad.
-2- Toss thick potato wedges with olive oil and Izak and bake until golden brown.
-3- Whisk olive oil, lemon juice and Izak and toss with blanched green beans, fava beans and sugar snap peas.
Also great with
huevos rancheros
* * *
grilled strip loin
* * *
seared halibut
* * *
shrimp tempura
* * *
spaghetti aglio e olio
Recipe from Joan Nathan, cookbook author
If Joan and I went shopping together, we would probably grab the same items from the shelves. I love how she translates her passion for Jewish and North African cuisines into flavorful, everyday recipes. With its sweet chiles, cumin and garlic, the Izak N.37 spice blend makes a great dry rub that turns into a deeply savory sauce when it’s combined with the juices of the tomatoes and fish.
INGREDIENTS
MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
2 large fennel bulbs—trimmed, halved and thinly sliced
1 pint cherry tomatoes, halved
4 cloves garlic, thinly sliced
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
2 tablespoons Izak N.37 spice blend
Salt and freshly ground pepper
2 tablespoons chopped preserved lemon
One 3-pound striped bass fillet, with skin, pin bones removed
INSTRUCTIONS
Preheat the oven to 425°. Rub 1 tablespoon of the olive oil on the bottom of a glass baking dish.
In a mixing bowl, combine the fennel, tomatoes, garlic, lemon juice, 1 tablespoon of the olive oil and 1 tablespoon of Izak spice blend. Season with salt and pepper. Place in the bottom of the baking dish and sprinkle the preserved lemon on top.
Rub the remaining 1 tablespoon of olive oil over both sides of the fish and season with salt, pepper and the remaining tablespoon of Izak. Place the fish on top of the vegetables, skin side up. Bake in the oven for about 30 minutes or until the fish is cooked through.
Divide the fish among plates. Top with the vegetable mixture, drizzle with some of the cooking liquid and serve.
SHABAZI The Standard Grill’s Dan Silverman loves zhoug, a spicy paste made with cilantro, green chiles and lemon juice that is the classic Yemenite hot sauce. Yemenites traditionally make zhoug on a large stone, then grind it into a fresh purée every day to serve with their meals. Dan asked me to transform this labor-intensive condiment into a powder that he could make into a paste by blending it with oil. Named for a famous Jewish poet and the early Yemenite neighborhood in Tel Aviv that honors his name, Shabazi N.38 challenges hot-sauce lovers to swap their old bottles for a new jar.
Recipe Ideas
-1- Mix hard-boiled egg yolks with mayonnaise and Shabazi to taste. Use to make deviled eggs.
-2- Mash ripe avocados and combine with Shabazi, pomegranate seeds, cilantro and lime juice.
-3- Halve Persian cucumbers lengthwise, brush with olive oil, sprinkle with Shabazi and lightly char on a hot grill.
Also great with
salsa verde
* * *
mojitos
* * *
braised kale
* * *
fettuccini alfredo
* * *
scrambled eggs
Recipe from Dan Silverman, The Standard Grill, New York City
This recipe showcases the great combination of fresh fish, citrus and heat. Dan uses the Shabazi spice blend not only to add some heat, but also to contribute herbaceous flavors to the dish. The citrusy salsa can be made on its own and served with grilled shrimp or fish tacos.
INGREDIENTS
MAKES 6 SERVINGS
2 pink grapefruits
1 cup thinly sliced scallions
1 jalapeño pepper, seeded and finely chopped
10 cilantro sprigs, stems and half of the leaves finely chopped, remaining leaves saved for garnish
1 tablespoon Shabazi N.38 spice blend, plus more for garnishing
11/2 pounds very fresh skinless fluke fillets (or black sea bass, red snapper or hamachi)
Flaky sea salt, preferably Maldon
High-quality extra-virgin olive oil
INSTRUCTIONS
Using a Microplane or fine zester, zest half of one grapefruit and set aside. Using a sharp knife, cut away the skin and pith of both grapefruits. Working over a bowl, cut the grapefruits into segments, then squeeze the grapefruit juice from the leftover hulls over the segments.
In a bowl, combine the scallions, jalapeño, chopped cilantro stems and leaves and the reserved grapefruit zest. Cut the grapefruit segments into 3 or 4 pieces each and add the juice to the other ingredients. Add the Shabazi and stir gently until combined. Refrigerate until ready to use.
Using a sharp knife, slice the fish on a slight bias as thinly as possible. Layer the fish on 6 chilled plates. (Alternatively, the fish can be diced to make something more like ceviche. If diced, the fish needs to marinate for about 5 minutes before serving.)
Spoon the salsa over the fish. Sprinkle with salt and cilantro leaves, drizzle with olive oil and dust with Shabazi. Serve immediately.
REIMS Pain d’épice won’t come to your table with a holiday smile or gumdrop buttons. It won’t have a pitched roof lined with cinnamon dots or a picket fence made of candy canes. It’s a light, spiced cake sweetened with honey that’s sliced thin and served as an accompaniment for foie gras or a delicate cheese course. This classic baked good is said to have originated in Reims, France, and I became interested in it thanks to a conversation with Ghaya Oliveira, the pastry chef at Bar Boulud and Boulud Sud. She wanted to create a dessert based on a gingerbread theme, so I prepared this blend of crystallized honey, star anise and cardamom, which brings a little heat and a welcome spiciness to both sweet and savory dishes.
Recipe Ideas
-1- Sauté prunes in butter with a pinch of Reims. Deglaze with port, reduce until syrupy and use as a sauce for pork tenderloin.
-2- Cook butter in a skillet until browned, add a pinch of Reims and use to cook trout or another flaky white fish.
-3- Add a pinch to a glass of cava or Prosecco and garnish with a lemon twist.
Also great with
oatmeal
* * *
gingerbread
* * *
roast pork belly
* * *
parsnip purée
* * *
peach cobbler
Recipe from Christopher Curtin, Éclat Chocolate, West Chester, Pennsylvania
Chris’s longtime passion for chocolate is present in every creation he makes at his shop. In this recipe, he pairs the gingerbread-like flavors of the Reims spice blend with dark chocolate and cocoa powder to add a new dimension to the classic truffle.
INGREDIENTS
MAKES ABOUT 5 DOZEN TRUFFLES
1 tablespoon Reims N.39 spice blend
11/2 cups heavy cream
1 stick plus 1 tablespoon unsalted butter, diced
17 ounces bittersweet 70% chocolate, plus 1 cup melted bittersweet chocolate
2 cups cocoa powder, for dusting
INSTRUCTIONS
In a bowl, whisk the Reims into the cream. Cover and refrigerate overnight.
Line a baking pan with parchment paper. Using a fine-mesh sieve, strain the cream into a small saucepan and add the butter. Gently heat the mixture until it’s hot to the touch and the butter has melted slightly (be careful not to overheat the cream).
Place the chocolate in a food processor. With the machine running, slowly add the hot cream and process until the chocolate is completely melted, forming a smooth, shiny ganache. Pour the mixture into the prepared pan. Let cool for 30 minutes, then cover with plastic wrap and let sit at room temperature for 6 to 8 hours, until the ganache is firm to the touch. Cut the ganache into 1-inch squares.
Place the melted chocolate in a bowl and the cocoa powder in another bowl. Use your hands to roll the chocolate squares into truffles and place on a rimmed baking sheet. When all of the truffles have been formed, refrigerate them for 15 minutes.
Cover the palm of one hand with a light amount of the melted chocolate. Place one truffle in your hand and gently roll it between your hands until it’s evenly coated with the chocolate. Place the coated truffle in the bowl of cocoa powder and roll to evenly coat, then transfer to a rimmed baking sheet. Repeat with the remaining ingredients. Refrigerate the truffles on the baking sheet for 15 minutes, then transfer to an air-tight container, cover and store in the refrigerator for up to a week. Let the truffles sit at room temperature for 30 minutes before serving.
SHEBA Casual conversations often lead me on research-driven paths of culinary and cultural discoveries. Such is the case with Philadelphia chef Michael Solomonov, who led me to uncover the breadth of spices and flavors in Ethiopian cuisine. I was surprised to taste such rich soups, spicy stews, lentil dishes and meats seasoned with spices that come from so many other places. A true testament to historic spice routes, the dishes reveal a hint of the crusaders and nomads who traveled through that part of Africa since nearly the beginning of mankind. As my interpretation of Ethiopia’s traditional berbere (a blend of nonnative spices, including paprika, ginger and cumin), Sheba N.40 pays homage to the former queen and the gifts that would come to her country’s future generations.
Recipe Ideas
-1- Combine thinly sliced potatoes with heavy cream, shredded cheddar and Sheba in a roasting pan and bake until tender.
-2- Purée with white beans and garlic to make a crostini spread.
-3- Toss broccoli florets with olive oil and Sheba. Roast until tender and browned.
Also great with
beef goulash
* * *
onion soup
* * *
spaghetti bolognese
* * *
braised cabbage
* * *
shakshouka
Recipe from Michael Solomonov, Zahav, Philadelphia
Beyond our Israeli connection, Michael and I share a very special friendship. He is doing remarkable things with Middle Eastern and North African cuisines at his restaurant. My Sheba N.40 spice blend pairs really well with slow-cooked dishes because it adds both deep flavors and acidity and helps thicken the cooking liquid. In addition, Sheba’s ginger notes pair well with the braised apples.
INGREDIENTS
MAKES 4 SERVINGS
31/2 pounds beef short ribs, with bone (about 1-by-3-inch pieces), or beef cheeks
1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon kosher salt
3 tablespoons Sheba N.40 spice blend
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
Freshly ground pepper
1 Spanish onion, peeled and thinly sliced (2 cups)
1 carrot, peeled and thinly sliced (11/2 cups)
4 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
1 celery root, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch dice (2 cups)
11/2 cups brewed coffee
2 cups chicken stock
3 Fuji or Braeburn apples
1/4 cup apple cider vinegar
2 tablespoons chopped cilantro
INSTRUCTIONS
In a large bowl, toss the beef with 1 tablespoon of the salt, 1 tablespoon of the Sheba spice blend and 1 tablespoon of the vegetable oil. Cover and refrigerate for 12 hours.
Preheat the oven to 300°. Heat the remaining tablespoon of vegetable oil in a large Dutch oven or heavy-bottomed pot over medium-high heat. Working in batches if necessary, season the short ribs with pepper and sear on all sides until deeply browned, 10 to 15 minutes. Transfer to a platter and set aside.
Lower the heat to medium and add the onion, carrot and garlic. Cook the vegetables, stirring occasionally, until slightly browned, about 5 minutes. Add the remaining teaspoon of salt, the celery root and 1 tablespoon of the Sheba and cook for 5 minutes. Add the beef, coffee and chicken stock and bring to a boil. Cover the pot with a lid, place in the oven and bake for about 3 hours or until the meat is very tender. Remove from the oven and set aside.
Peel the apples, then cut each into six wedges and place them in a bowl. Add 1 tablespoon Sheba and the cider vinegar and toss.
Skim the fat off the surface of the beef braising liquid and increase the oven to 375°. Add the apples to the ribs and place the pot, uncovered, in the oven. Cook for about 25 to 30 minutes, basting with the cooking liquid every 10 minutes, until the apples are fork tender and the meat is glazed. Garnish with the cilantro and serve.
LULA Although seaweed isn’t common in American cuisine, numerous coastal regions across the globe have farmed and foraged various types of seaweed for centuries. When I began to experiment with samples of sea lettuce, kelp and alaria, I loved how they brought a natural saltiness and imparted the flavors of the sea to all kinds of dishes, giving even those who can’t eat seafood the experience of its flavors. As sustainable, natural ingredients are becoming more attractive to cooks, seaweed presents itself as a mineral-rich, readily available resource and a great accompaniment to delicate fish and Asian- inspired sauces and soups. As for its name, this blend is in memory of a unique and inspiring little girl.
Recipe Ideas
-1- Whisk with rice wine vinegar and sprinkle over steamed edamame.
-2- Brush Tuscan kale leaves with olive oil, sprinkle with Lula and bake at 225° until crispy.
-3- Lightly coat veal chops with vegetable oil, sprinkle with Lula and grill over a hot fire.
Also great with
miso soup
* * *
tuna tartare
* * *
braised leeks
* * *
stir-fried rice
* * *
soba noodles
Recipe from Micaela Walker and Sam Murray, Brooklyn, New York
Many of my visits with my friends Micaela and her husband, Sam, are around a grill. Here, they treat romaine lettuce like a piece of meat or fish by grilling it before tossing with a new spin on Caesar dressing. The dried seaweed in the Lula spice blend not only brings that briny anchovy flavor to the dressing, but also to the addictive biscuits that act like croutons for the salad.
INGREDIENTS
MAKES 6 SERVINGS
Cheese Biscuits
(makes about 3 dozen biscuits)
11/2 cups all-purpose flour
1 stick cold unsalted butter, iced
2 ounces Manchego cheese, finely grated
1 teaspoon kosher salt
2 tablespoons Lula N.41 spice blend
1 egg
Salad
1/4 cup mayonnaise
3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
1 large garlic clove, minced
1 teaspoon W
orcestershire sauce, or more to taste
2 tablespoons Lula N.41 spice blend
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for grilling
Salt and freshly ground pepper
6 romaine lettuce hearts, halved lengthwise
Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, for shaving
INSTRUCTIONS
Make the cheese biscuits: In a food processor, combine the flour, butter, cheese, salt and Lula spice blend. Process for about 30 seconds or until the mixture forms a sandy texture. Add the egg and process for 20 seconds or until the mixture forms a dough. Place the dough between two sheets of parchment paper and use a rolling pin to flatten the dough until it’s 1⁄8-inch thick. Place the dough on a baking sheet and refrigerate for 30 minutes.